Announcing Longs Peak Diamond FA DVD Kamps & Rearick 1960


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 11, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
I am very pleased to announce the availability of a documentary DVD of the first ascent of the Diamond on Longs Peak by Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick in 1960. Bonnie Kamps has assembled a captivating historical montage to accentuate her engaging memoir of this adventure. The forty minute DVD is narrated by Bonnie and Dave Rearick and features many photos of Bob Kamps. Bob and Dave played a major role in shaping the free climbing game that became the inspiration for so many of us.

From Climb, 1977

From Climb, 1977

I am distributing this DVD as a service to Bonnie and the climbing community. All proceeds go directly to her.

The DVD sells individually for $25 plus shipping as described below. If you are a bona fide retailer, club or outdoor organization, minimum orders of three DVDs sell for $45 plus shipping. A business or institutional check is required for this pricing.

Shipping for individual DVDs is via USPS First Class mail with delivery confirmation within the US is: $3.60(1 DVD), $3.80(2 DVDs), $4.00(3 DVDs).

Larger orders will be sent via USPS Small Flat Rate box with delivery confirmation for $6.00.

Any interested parties please e-mail me with your order or questions. Bonnie's wish is that this very personal and honest chapter in history informs and entertains a wide audience. If you enjoy Bonnie's efforts, please let other people know.

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 11, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
RIP Bob Kamps!!! I was privileged to know the man and climb with him at Stoney Point. He opened my eyes to new possibilities. This looks awsome. Thanks-

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
Bump for Bob and Dave.

Mar 12, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
I met Bob and Bonnie in the early 90's. He and Bonnie were on a road trip and stopped off at Quartz Mtn. in Oklahoma. Bob was hiking all the runout climbs and seemed to be really be enjoying himself. I stayed in touch with Bob over the years until his passing in 2005. Miss you Bob.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 12, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
Interlopers indeed!
They poached a FA that should have gone to Kor, Johnson, or Northcutt.

Ah well,.... it was all the NPS's fault anyway, paranoid over "Eiger birds."

Water long under the bridge, and Layton probably bagged the best line on the wall anyway.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
Bonnie does an excellent job of putting such petty controversy to rest...

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 12, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
I was fortunate enough to be introduced to climbing in Rocky Mountain
National Park by Dave Rearick--on the Twin Owls. What an incredible guy.

Steve Are you handling the sales of it? How? When? Contact info?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 12, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
Like I said, water loooong under the bridge.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
SteveW- Read the OP again for the details. Write me off forum if you need any more information or help.

hanging from an ice pic and missing my mama.
Mar 12, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
Reserve one for me! Super Please!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
Done! Super Thank You!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
Coffee and a bump!
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 13, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
Yes, Bob and Dave were the right men for the job
and did a first-rate job. Layton of course, maybe
with Northcutt, would have done well too, but the
Californians were steeped in the no-bolt ethic. Dale
Johnson, for whom I have only the utmost respect, was
more relaxed with bolts, as the ethic hadn't really
yet arrived in Colorado, and he likely would have used
more bolts, good climber that he was nevertheless.
Bob and Dave were simply there, when the park service
opened things up, and they did all they were required to do
to meet the park service's strict demands. Layton was out of town
or something at the time. Bob and Dave were true masters,
and Layton got his chance later on an even more beautiful
route. I was blessed to be able to be on his support party
and greeted him and Charlie Roskosz on the top when they arrived.

But this is a good dvd I highly recommend. Dave was my
friend and mentor, and I climbed a lot with Kamps, a great
free climber. That was a different time, a different era,
and Bonnie does a great job capturing it all. I'm so glad
this dvd was made.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 13, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
Though I have my copy, please post how people can
order it.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 13, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
I was just a kid, just starting to climb, when
Dave and Bob did the Diamond. Those were really
exciting times, some of the most exciting days
in my entire climbing experience, as the masters
crept upward on the unclimbed sheer wall....
I had no idea at the time that both would become
my friends...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 13, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
Tucker, there was no "pissing match" at all. The two
showed up, filled out the proper forms, did the climb.
All fair. Layton was out of town, and some of them
later wished the park service had opened it up sooner and wondered
why not and felt a bit cheated. That was it.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 13, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
Pat, just ignore MTucker.
He does what he can to be the turd in the punchbowl.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 14, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
Two other reasons I thought of why Kamps and Rearick
were, as I put it, the right men for the job.
While in Colorado (Kamps was visiting, had done a
number of routes, in Colorado Springs, around Boulder, etc.,
and Rearick was working in Colorado and starting to be
a Coloradan), they were, bar none, the two best free
climbers in the state. Soon after the Diamond, Rearick,
for example, started the big free climbing craze in
Eldorado by freeing Layton's route T-2, and Dave was
truly a master free climber -- I knew, I was his
humble partner. I watched as my other partner, Layton,
admired Rearick and recognized Dave's prowess
on rock. Of course Layton was an excellent
free climber and would only get better as time went on,
but he wasn't focused on free climbing the way Dave was,
from Dave's experience with Royal at Tahquitz and in
Yosemite. Even Northucutt, with all his pushup strength
and so forth, wasn't the free climber Dave was.
Kamps, as we all know, was a true genius
at footwork, very few people even close to him. And
in terms of sheer ability to get up a rock, Bob
was even Dave's superior. They were a phenomenal
team, had done several of the big walls in Yosemite... In
California, Kamps was Royal's main competitor...

The second reason is that Dave and Bob had all the right
gear. They had the latest hard-steel pitons, some made by
Dolt, and some by Chouinard. These would give anyone an
advantage, whereas the Colorado guys were still using
for the most part the old European stuff... That was a
big difference.

Layton was on fire, though, full of energy, and he would
become the fastest, if not the best,
aid climber on the planet soon enough. And in
moments of inspiration Layton showed his brilliance
as a free climber, such as his lead of Rogue's Arete,
with me, in... what was it, 1963... now recognized
as a bold 5.10. But when the Diamond was there,
unclimbed, the gods, or whomever direct the doings
of this world, seemed to choose, and rightly,
Rearick and Kamps.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
allocating funds.....

Trad climber
Mar 14, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
I wrote this blurb for possible inclusion on the DVD jacket, but turned out only a short line or two could be used for space limitations and to catch the eye. Here's the blurb in full as I first wrote it, a little bit in "jacket" language, but the points all stand true in my mind:

"A large, discerning story of the Diamond first ascent. Witness the quiet but powerful souls of climbers Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick, as they keep true to their love of climbing and their bond of friendship to navigate hurdles of competition between climbers, onerous federal permit and safety barriers, weather uncertainties, waterfalls and bivouacs, now dated climbing gear, and finally manage media bungling and celebrity status after their success. Follow along as Bobís wife Bonnie narrates and Dave of today speaks in exacting detail. Then go beyond the Diamond as Bonnie, with compelling personal touch and wit, shares her lifelong love and admiration of Bob and shows how the passion of the two great Diamond climbers played out into lasting friendship and future climbing days. A remarkably full and insightful portrait of a historical climb, with rich human take unique in climbing tales."

Tom Higgins
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