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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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The topic of free soloing is almost always approached as a violation of taboo, as in the John Long story title "The Only Blasphemy", a violation of some profound canon. I think that this taboo was established long ago (for most of you) in the 40's and 50's, and may have grown out of the exploits of the generation of "4th class" ascents in the Sierra back country which did result in a number of high visibility deaths. I would need to research this... so it is just a supposition.
However, free soloing seems a natural progression in the mastery of climbing, both in terms of technique and knowledge of the climbing environment. As one gets better, it seems natural that the definition of "easy ground" changes. The "4th class" descent off of Stately Pleasure Dome in Tuolumne Meadows is a terror for the first time climber and a stroll for the grizzled veteran... what changes? is it less dangerous? should it be forbidden? is it not "free soloing"?
As part of the progression in the mastery of climbing, it is no less worthy or moral to celebrate the accomplishments of free soloing than any other parts of the climbing activity. It is certainly easy to recognize notable free solos. Equally true, the consequences of free soloing are well known and require little imagination are probably less susceptable to self-delusion. Climbing "with your courage in your rucksack" has always been prown to over-reaching attempts, going somewhere you had no business being just because you had the technology to pull your ass back from over the abyss. Why should we be celebrating that?
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Perhaps we need to draw a distinction between 'Celebrating Free SoloISTS' and celebrating Free soloING.
Sort of a 'love the sin, not the sinner' thing.
Cuz when you focus attention on the individual, it's perilously close to celebrating the ego, which is an unhealthy road to head down. Celebrating the act, on the other hand, is more like an appreciation of that flow of which JH speaks, or at least of the ability to keep it together in perilous circumstances.
It is a kind of taboo. Nobody want to be the one to see somebody go down. And the rare occasions when it happens make the rest of us all look stupid or insane. Something best appreciated in low tones around the campfire, perhaps. Keep it in the family. Deliberately placing oneself in a position of lethal danger for totally selfish, non-altruistic, unheroic reasons isn't going to play well with a certain number of people, and that's not going to change. The soloist will never be seen as the moral equal of the firefighter returning to the burning building.
But hey, it's a joy to move about free an unencumbered, and on the right day there's no better feeling. Still, you'll never catch me giving a slide show about it.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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(And I don't know a thing about the history of fourth-class ascents in the Sierra during a certain time period. This seems more universal)
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Free soloing is sublime--till it's not.
JL
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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"Sort of a 'love the sin, not the sinner' thing."
"Free soloing is sublime--till it's not."
Apt, and made me laugh too, LOL.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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check out "Return to sender" .. some sick soloing on that video ..
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Impressive yes, but in even a brief meeting, you realize Renan has just the right blend of contemplation, reserve, and resolve to sustain himself through those climbs.
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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I can tell you from personal experience that the majority of people, non-climbers and climbers, tend to view soloing in a negative light and feel it as a direct result of the recklessness of youth. My feelings are to the contrary. Soloing is an amazing experience. It is worth it for some and not for others. No judgement showed be passed either way.
"For he who lives more lives than one, more deathes than one must die."
Oscar Wilde Ballad of Reading Gaol
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Consider the practices of yesterday's climbers which are now viewed poorly by our current understanding of "safe".
When I learned to climb, a single piton anchor and a "good belay stance" was taught. We would vilify an individual today if they practiced this in their climbing.
Roped travel on dicey snow and ice was ok, no running belays, no simul climbing, this is considered today as a "suicide pact" as the weakest partner can bring the whole team down. Yet soloing on this sort of ground is also frowned upon, strange...
There are many other examples of standard practices of yesterday being anathema today.
One constant has been the crime of free soloing.
I consider this to be total bullsh#t. (But I am in a bad mood today, for other reasons). The whole sport can be viewed as irresponsible because it puts the participants in a position of risk with no redeeming social value. It is simply a matter of degree, and self-serving justification which we make to ourselves and those signficant people around us.
There is no reason to climb, it is intrinsicly a selfish activity, solo or in groups.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Free soloists should celebrate themselves
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2006 - 03:31pm PT
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I really pushed the limit to far a few times and very easily could have got the chop. I was only thinking of myself and not my loved ones.
Bachar nearly got it a few times.
He wrote that it was quite dicey on the Moratorium.
Juan
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LOWERme
Trad climber
Santa Fe N.M.
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Though I certainly never considered myself a "soloist", now and then I would feel the need, (origin still kind of nebulous), to wind it out a bit. I think it may be as simple as; climbing naked just seemed to be the ultimate in free climbing expression back then, and somehow logical in a somewhat illogical activity to begin with. When I was solid it was mild uneventful bliss. But to be honest, when I was sketchin, I think I got more of what I was really looking for.........Dopa./adren. cocktails anyone?
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WBraun
climber
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Oh all you whiners, go free solo something and then STFU.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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"...There is no reason to climb, it is intrinsicly a selfish activity, solo or in groups...."
The reason to do it is because it is fun. Meeting the challenge is fun. Having fun, however you find it, is the greatest benefit of living, if you ask me. Is this selfish, or just making the best of the deal we're given?
If it weren't for our ability to have fun, the "deal" of life would pretty much suck.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Soloed last week in high winds. > Whined hard here on ST about it. > SingTFU.
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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I solo at Cabrillo, during lunch breaks at school. Nothing over 5.9 but I would say I get the most satisfaction out of it compared to other forms of climbing. And it's a sweet feeling you get after soloing Grant's crack for the first time. Wait? Whats so bad about it?
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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LOWRme said "I think it may be as simple as; climbing naked just seemed to be the ultimate in free climbing expression back then, and somehow logical in a somewhat illogical activity to begin with."
So....if one free solos naked......are they upping the ante at all? I mean, of course the free soloist doesn't wnat to fall, so the nakedness shouldn't be a factr, except for the added freedom......Or am I just being silly.....
Are there any naked free solo stories?
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WBraun
climber
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Yes you are being silly, I have seen this naked free solo. There is no difference if you are dressed or naked.
It's in the consciousness, not the outward appearance.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Although naked works better on face climbs than chimneys.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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welllll...if I ever run into a naked(male) free soloing, I am definitely going to shout up..."Hey! How'd you get the rope up.....Oh. Never mind.."
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