Best Yosemite Sport Climb

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skitch

climber

East of Heaven

Mar 27, 2015 - 03:23pm PT

I don't know why there aren't more Via-Ferratas in Yosemite, Especially on El-Cap and on Fairview. We are always 20-30 years behind Europe.

Has anyone heard if the CEQA for the tram up to Half Dome is finished, or did that go away with DNC losing their contract???

Big Mike

Trad climber

Mar 27, 2015 - 03:56pm PT

Haha Skitch.

I'd fuvking chop it myself if that were the case.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Mar 27, 2015 - 04:08pm PT

Actually, bolting the Central Pillar is a damned good idea. It's an okay climb that gets an inordinate amount of traffic. It's common to see several parties waiting in line. Bolting it would allow traffic (especially today's climbers) to move much faster and would go a long way to alleviate the waiting time.

Mr_T

Trad climber

Northern California

Mar 27, 2015 - 04:28pm PT

Energizer
The 11c to the left of Hedonistic Pursuit.

Never done it, but the stuff out the Blow Hole looks interesting.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Mar 27, 2015 - 04:43pm PT

Saw some pretty sweet looking routes on Lower Yosemite Falls when doing a middle earth descent. No idea what they are named but looked long and good.

enjoimx

Trad climber

Yosemite

Mar 27, 2015 - 05:11pm PT

The route left of Hethonistic Pursuit is called New Wave, is 11.d, and the bolts are sh#t. There is one good bolt protecting the top crux.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Mar 27, 2015 - 06:27pm PT

Drive by shooting is sick. Hope I can send it someday!

Srbphoto

climber

Kennewick wa

Mar 27, 2015 - 06:40pm PT

I liked Mongoloid.

Srbphoto

climber

Kennewick wa

Mar 27, 2015 - 06:48pm PT

slightly off topic...

There is a climb near chapel wall (I think) that you stem up a tree and you lunge left to a one or 2 finger jam and then gain the the crack which goes up to fists (at least for me). For the life of me, I can't remember the name. I remember doing it but I can't remember the name.

Hopefully, someone knows which one it is.

enjoimx

Trad climber

Yosemite

Mar 27, 2015 - 07:22pm PT

Controlled burn

steelmnkey

climber

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...

Mar 27, 2015 - 07:30pm PT

That's actually complete bullsh#t. Been behind the same goobers on bolted routes in Red Rocks and they're STILL like watching paint dry. These nOOb climbing clowns just never learn anything about climbing, least of all climbing efficiently. Bolting CPF would just serve to increase the crowds at the base because it wouldn't require buying (God forbid they learn how to use it) gear.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Mar 27, 2015 - 10:10pm PT

Nice troll Jim!

Lol

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Mar 28, 2015 - 12:12am PT

Bump:

Anybody ever repeat Scott Burke's Shock Waves 513b at Chapel??
Another SB route (although a bit slabby to be called a sport route) I've always wondered about is The Shining 5.12c on the Royal Arches.
.... Likewise, another Burke-Barton route, Friday the 13th? Has anyone ever gone all the way to the top of that nasty one?

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Mar 28, 2015 - 01:15am PT

Nice troll Jim!

When I read his post I couldn't believe he was serious

Cassius

climber

Berkeley, CA

Mar 28, 2015 - 09:30am PT

I rapped into Kundalini Express at Taft Point in the early 90s. It looked really cool. (My partners looked over the side and decided to bail so I ended up prussiking out.)

Completely agree that Great Escape is first rate.

Coup d'état is a little gem not far past the 140 entrance. Who put that up?

Oso Flaco

Gym climber

Atascadero, CA

Mar 28, 2015 - 09:59am PT

I give a second vote to 'Desperado' 11d on Pat & Jack Pinnacle. Chimney start or traverse out onto large suspended flake. Improbable moves to gain the outer arete from the chimney start. Thin face climbing past two bolts on the face of the giant suspended flake. Then a weird lie back/horizontal body move onto the main cliff and more liebacking up a left arching seam under an overhang. Big move out onto the lip of the roof, dangle from one arm for the camera, heel up and mantel the overhang. Then hero climbing to the anchor on big reachy patina jugs to finish. Awesome.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Mar 28, 2015 - 11:17am PT

the Devil's Dance Floor is a short approach, about an hour for an old guy, up from Rt. 120... gives you a warmup too so you can jump right on your project!