Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 82 of total 82 in this topic |
James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
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What's the best sport climb in the ditch? Maybe a better question is- what's the best bolted/fixed route in Yosemite?
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 16, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
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Snake Dike.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
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The Best Bet arete and stuff at the Public Sanitation Walls are pretty rad. The aretes at the cookie are awesome
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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May 16, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
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The ones on Killer Pillar, mostly because of the amazing setting.
Edited to say that I just clicked Caylor's link, which is to a route on Killer Piller. The one he likes is way to hard for me. I just barely made it up Bucket Brigade on TR.
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mctwisted
Social climber
superslacker city
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May 16, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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ariza's "drive by shooting" 5.12a at chapel wall is one of my favorites
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 17, 2011 - 03:20am PT
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Cables route on Half Dome! :-)
The first and still the most popular....
Maybe DQed because most people don't rope up, though.
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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May 17, 2011 - 03:22am PT
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Haha. Good one, Clint. :)
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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May 17, 2011 - 08:28am PT
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Whoa Hankster!
That picture of Meat Grinder made me..... let's just say I'm off to the laundromat. Definitely a beautiful line.
Still....can't...type...because...of...overload...of....awesome.
Lasti
p.s.: At least, if you slip while stradling the arete, you'll never have to shave your junk again. Not even after you scrape it off the granite. Maybe the route name has something to do with that fact.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 17, 2011 - 11:27am PT
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Wheat Thin is pretty awesome (although one piece of gear makes it sane).
Totally fun is Underklingon.
Great Escape is more than a pitch, does that count?
If so, then Crest Jewel has got to be up there, with the extended start of course(Royal Arches, that is ;-).
Any recommendations for those things out at Taft?
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
1.5 hours from Yosemite!!!
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May 17, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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Central pillar of Frenzy
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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May 17, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
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Ya, Central Pillar is so much better now that it,s bolted.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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May 17, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Great Escape. The Killer Pillar routes are sweet action, but they're one pitch.
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
1.5 hours from Yosemite!!!
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May 17, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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Ya, Central Pillar is so much better now that it,s bolted.
It's bolted.....since when?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 17, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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Is the Salathe headwall in the running yet this year?
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bob
climber
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May 17, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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I had a lot of fun on Shipoopi. You didn't say valley so ......
Had a lot of fun up to the crux pitch on Golden Years. Would love to go finish that one.
Bob J.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Only made it 3 pitches up, and that 3rd pitch was brutal, but the great escape second pitch 11a was one of the best pitches I've climbed yet. The third kicked my ass, and I dogged my way up it, but all the moves are there if I can build up some endurance. Thanks Dan McDevitt, it must have been sweet working the first ascent. Great Route.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Is that fixed rope still crusting away on Golden Years? If so, it's been there at least 2 years.
Thanks for the Great Escape Dan, that's a keeper.
Surely you have other suggestions? The Drive-By is killer too.
Rob
vicariously living large through y'all
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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Maybe my new favorite Yosemite sport climb.
I checked out Trick of the Tail and Superstition in the Upper Mecca cave. Trick is pretty rad. Feels like full on limestone climbing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Overhang Overpass and Twilight Zone, at least they seemed sporty BITD before cams.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Caylor, got to agree about the center route on Killer Pillar, gorgeous rock in an amazing location. Dimitri Barton however was the first to red point it not Roy. I spanked in the bolts on top, and top roped it before either of them exiting out left instead of finishing direct. On a return trip to suss the bolting I broke edges off at two different spots. I was unable to repeat the moves again before Dimitri went up and bagged all three on that face. I was bummed out to say the least when I learned Dimitri had done them all while I was away at Smith Rocks the following week.
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Canoga Park, CA
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"96 Degrees in the Shade" is pretty good also.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You're right Walleye, I smoked a cigar after an afternoon on Killer Pillar- great climbing!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Fosburghs Kundalini Express at Taft Point Looks awesome.....
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
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How is the stuff at Taft? Anybody been?
Keeper of the Flame is cool.
My buddy did whipcord a lil while ago and said it was rad.
I went to Loggerhead last week and got pretty schooled- good rock hard climbing
Mcdevitts switchblade is way better than wicked gravity
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Cookie Monster on the Cookie Cliff.
Shaft of the Penetrator, the unnamed route to the right of previous mentioned, Keep the Muscle Loose the Fat. All at the Knobby Wall.
Knobby Wall is good for gimmie 5.12's if you boulder at all.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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Meltdown at the knobbywall is cool but in general the routes aren't very good down there- there's way better boulder problems in the valley
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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has anybody been up to taft peak, down in the fissures?
thats where the real freaks hang out,
i did the rostrum butt naked last night,
did el cap pics pic that up?
hell no
which value meal item is worth the most?
as far as calories per dollar?
elmo james is so blue he can not even go to work
his woman left him, and hid feelings are hurt
ekat is sittin at 49 below, please have some sympathy
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Cookie Monster
Tucker's Proud Rockclimb
Afterburner
Desperado
Antichrist
Scram
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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King for a Day , Mecca.....
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ChampionSleeper
Trad climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Another vote for the Great Escape! Stellar route.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Bolted sport routes and Yosemite Valley don't belong together.....
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WBraun
climber
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^^^ Sure they do. ^^^^
Variegatedness.
One size does not fit all .....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Survival, sport climbing has been a part of the mix, albeit a small part, since the 80's. Remember the Kauk/ Bachar episode. I've climbed on the Killer Pillar and enjoyed it. I don't think that people travel to the Valley from afar to sport climb but it's there for those who want a change of pace.
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WBraun
climber
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Most of those sport climbs in Yosemite were put up by the local Trad climbers .....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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anyone here done tron?
sounds pretty cool.
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TFPU
Sport climber
Idaho
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Sport Climb and Yosemite together? Isn't that a bad word?
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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It would be awesome if TRON got some attention.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Well there is that Chris Mac sport climb, Caught at the Lip, 5.11 on Shultz's Buttress. Pretty fun. Until you get to the lip sandbag move. Defintely an stunning location there beneath El Cap and very sunny and warm, dries out quick on a wet day.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Punch Line
Maybe not the best sport climb, but one of the best sport-climbing stories.
And now that Hall of Mirrors has nice belays...
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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TKO is a bit more sporty than sport, but it's pretty good.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Meltdown is short but pretty frkn rad! and Drive By Shooting isnt bad either :)
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Empire at Mecca and Whicked Gravity on the Killer Pillar. Not a whole lot of great sport routes in the Valley for the most part. Toulumne and Senora is where its at...
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Anybody ever repeat Scott Burke's Shock Waves 513b at Chapel??
Another SB route (although a bit slabby to be called a sport route) I've always wondered about is The Shining 5.12c on the Royal Arches.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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The bolts got replaced on the shining bot long ago
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Nov 12, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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So the bolts got replaced, but has the Shining ever been repeated? Likewise, another Burke-Barton route, Friday the 13th? Has anyone ever gone all the way to the top of that nasty one?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Nov 12, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
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sounds as if "Sport Climb" needs to be defined.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 12, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
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Senora
yes, she is where it is at
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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This video of Eric Sanchez on Keep The Muscle Lose the Fat is kind of Cool. The knobby wall is ok. Meltdown is fun. This one looks sick.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 11, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
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Please don't use the words "Yosemite" and "sport climb" in the same sentence.
It makes me gag and want to sh#t my pants.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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Checked out some of the climbing at Taft point yesterday- good stuff. I climbed Counterparts with Honnold a month ago- that route is really cool- some not too hard climbing to a hard boulder problem on the last pitch.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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Ya, Central Pillar is so much better now that it,s bolted. It's bolted.....since when?
Since May! You seriously have not heard? Just bring 14 draws and anchor material. Bolts are close together. 7 feet apart in the run out spot, but you can bring a #2 that protects it well.
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crasic
climber
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Oct 31, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Cables route on Half Dome! :-)
The first and still the most popular....
Maybe DQed because most people don't rope up, though.
This has amazing prank potential mid-season.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Oct 31, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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I'm adding a vote for Dan's route Great Escape and a second with Drive by Shooting
And I'm a detractor for anything to do with that dark, dank, bilbo baggins, soot blackened, 24 feet of glory, knobby wall.....can't believe that's on any list at all
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Mar 27, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
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Bump for awesome Yosemite sport climbing!
Anyone have info on Switchblade? Where is it, what is it rated???
Thanks
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 27, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
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Bachar-Yerian
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Mar 27, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
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Sweet photo. Have any photos of switchblade?
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Mar 27, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
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Central pillar of frenzy is definitely much more fun with the bolts.
Thank you!
I heard it was bolted by two separate European parties, one from France and the other a combo Englishmen and a Spaniard. I can't believe they hand drilled that thing, without aiders!!! Thankfully the Mountain Shop donated the bolts and hangers for the project. Opened the climb up to so many more people.
I actually still take gear up with me, the bolts are kinda spread out, easily 10-15 feet between bolts in some sections. I used to take 3 #3's and 2 #4's for the 3rd pitch, now I take 1 of each and 26 quick draws.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
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Same guys just bolted the Steck Salathe and, you wont believe this, they put via feratta holds on the entrance moves into the narrows!
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Mar 27, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
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I don't know why there aren't more Via-Ferratas in Yosemite, Especially on El-Cap and on Fairview. We are always 20-30 years behind Europe.
Has anyone heard if the CEQA for the tram up to Half Dome is finished, or did that go away with DNC losing their contract???
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 27, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
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Haha Skitch.
I'd fuvking chop it myself if that were the case.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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Actually, bolting the Central Pillar is a damned good idea. It's an okay climb that gets an inordinate amount of traffic. It's common to see several parties waiting in line. Bolting it would allow traffic (especially today's climbers) to move much faster and would go a long way to alleviate the waiting time.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Mar 27, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
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Energizer
The 11c to the left of Hedonistic Pursuit.
Never done it, but the stuff out the Blow Hole looks interesting.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 27, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
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Saw some pretty sweet looking routes on Lower Yosemite Falls when doing a middle earth descent. No idea what they are named but looked long and good.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Mar 27, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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The route left of Hethonistic Pursuit is called New Wave, is 11.d, and the bolts are sh#t. There is one good bolt protecting the top crux.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 27, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
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Drive by shooting is sick. Hope I can send it someday!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Mar 27, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
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I liked Mongoloid.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Mar 27, 2015 - 06:48pm PT
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slightly off topic...
There is a climb near chapel wall (I think) that you stem up a tree and you lunge left to a one or 2 finger jam and then gain the the crack which goes up to fists (at least for me). For the life of me, I can't remember the name. I remember doing it but I can't remember the name.
Hopefully, someone knows which one it is.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Mar 27, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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Controlled burn
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 27, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
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Actually, bolting the Central Pillar is a damned good idea. It's an okay climb that gets an inordinate amount of traffic. It's common to see several parties waiting in line. Bolting it would allow traffic (especially today's climbers) to move much faster and would go a long way to alleviate the waiting time.
That's actually complete bullsh#t. Been behind the same goobers on bolted routes in Red Rocks and they're STILL like watching paint dry. These nOOb climbing clowns just never learn anything about climbing, least of all climbing efficiently. Bolting CPF would just serve to increase the crowds at the base because it wouldn't require buying (God forbid they learn how to use it) gear.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 27, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
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Nice troll Jim!
Lol
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Mar 28, 2015 - 12:12am PT
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Bump: Anybody ever repeat Scott Burke's Shock Waves 513b at Chapel??
Another SB route (although a bit slabby to be called a sport route) I've always wondered about is The Shining 5.12c on the Royal Arches.
.... Likewise, another Burke-Barton route, Friday the 13th? Has anyone ever gone all the way to the top of that nasty one?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Mar 28, 2015 - 01:15am PT
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Nice troll Jim! When I read his post I couldn't believe he was serious
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Cassius
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 28, 2015 - 09:30am PT
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I rapped into Kundalini Express at Taft Point in the early 90s. It looked really cool. (My partners looked over the side and decided to bail so I ended up prussiking out.)
Completely agree that Great Escape is first rate.
Coup d'état is a little gem not far past the 140 entrance. Who put that up?
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Mar 28, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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I give a second vote to 'Desperado' 11d on Pat & Jack Pinnacle. Chimney start or traverse out onto large suspended flake. Improbable moves to gain the outer arete from the chimney start. Thin face climbing past two bolts on the face of the giant suspended flake. Then a weird lie back/horizontal body move onto the main cliff and more liebacking up a left arching seam under an overhang. Big move out onto the lip of the roof, dangle from one arm for the camera, heel up and mantel the overhang. Then hero climbing to the anchor on big reachy patina jugs to finish. Awesome.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 28, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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the Devil's Dance Floor is a short approach, about an hour for an old guy, up from Rt. 120... gives you a warmup too so you can jump right on your project!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 28, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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When I read his post I couldn't believe he was serious
He got a bite! Lol
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bob
climber
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Mar 28, 2015 - 12:29pm PT
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I've done one Warbler!!! Part of at least. Good sh#t.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Mar 28, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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enjoimx - Thanks that's the one!
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NASH
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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PEACE
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Coup d'état
KP Ariza
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