The RORP Trip Report 5/7/2011


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May 9, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
"If you have an interest in avoiding loose rock, dead wood & munge"

Who would want to do that?

10 Years After: reliable excellence is appreciated.

A pile of dirt.
May 9, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
Looking good Ed - hope the back is better.

See you out there next month!


Trad climber
Red River NM
May 9, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
Nice job guys!

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
May 9, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
All those days looking up at Reeds and finally can see those lines more clearly. Thank you for another photo-intensive report that shows a great way to go!

Trad climber
May 9, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
Nice Ed & Gary!
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
May 9, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
Would it be correct to describe the outing as a RORP romp?
Gary Carpenter

SF Bay Area
May 9, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
Hi Scott,

Yes your sling was there and I clipped it (thanks). I put in a small piece before the lip but I didn't trust it. That was another "your technique is your protection" pitch. 5.7 Pratt!

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 10, 2011 - 03:13am PT
Very cool!

Always wanted to check it out, since I did the first 3 of Flatus. Now there is a cool overlay and psych at my fingertips.

"We did the first 3 pitches of Flatus some time last year... spicier than I expected! Gary, did you find a fixed sling way back in the pro-less chimney with microwave sized chockstone at the top?"

I biffed it trying to place a cam in the chockstone, Plinko'd down the chimney maybe 20 feet, landed on a nice, flat pad.

Promptly Bailed.

Thanks for the TR ED and Gary
scuffy b

dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
May 10, 2011 - 06:31pm PT

Oakland, CA
Dec 14, 2011 - 01:18am PT
Bump - solid TR.

Trad climber
Bay Area
Dec 14, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
talk about "great minds think alike", I was pondering the RORP in Roper just yesterday and was wondering if anyone had climbed it lately.
I'd missed this thread first time around.
Ed: I still owe you my topo notes for Dream Easy. Send me your email address.

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 14, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
Thanks Ed for the report, and thanks all for the great photos.

The RORP was one of the first multi-pitch routes I climbed in Yosemite: way back in 1975. Did it with Gary Clark, and I led the 3rd pitch. For some reason the crack through the small tree seemed hard, and I traversed out right on steep slab. After about 40-50 Ft. of runout, I traversed back to the crack.

Stupid me. Next time I did it, a few years later, the crack seemed easy.

We did top out both times, and walked off left. I remember it as "an adventure," but the details are lost in time.

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Dec 14, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
Always good to see the Valley obscurities revisted by your reports Ed. Great Stuff!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
Just a note,

this is the winter that the block which had sat, loosely, at the belay anchor labeled "3" on the above photo-topo, departed the cliff. All in all a good thing as it was a natural feature to grasp for while exiting that mean slot. Loose and dangerous for the leader. (Gary's foot is perched upon the departed block in his photo above captioned "The Rorp P3")

Also, the bolt stations have been upgraded with links to eliminate the need for the "slings & rings" rappels... I recommend that if you go as high as the 4th class ramp between "4" and "5" that you use the Beyond Lunacy rap stations at the far [climber's] left of that ramp (most western extent). You will need two ropes to rap from there.

There are still "rings & slings" around trees, use these with extreme caution.

Also, someone sawed half-way through the oak tree of Fritz's story, but couldn't finish the job. It is an old cut, and the oak seems to have survived it just fine... but people, don't do that! Let's try to take on the challenge rather than reducing the climbs. Part of the fun is visiting a place where the hand of man has not altered the place. While Yosemite Valley is far from a pristine wilderness, that is no excuse to accelerate the process of Disneylandification.

Also along those same lines, Eric wanted me to recant my dissing of the upper pitches. As Fritz notes, RORP goes up to the mid-cliff ledge, not just to the bolts... and Flautus goes to the top of the cliff. The top of Reed's is an amazing place to visit, and there are ways off, both rappelling and walking, I recommend the walk because of the adventure, but since most of the ecological damage climbers do around cliffs are approach and descent paths, I certainly endorse a less damaging way off for the hoards of climbers I know are dying to top out on that cliff.

It is about 1000' high, so you'd think that moderate passage with that many pitches would be popular... apparently not. And note that the upper 40% of the cliff cannot be viewed from the pullout, take a look from the pullout on the east side of the long tunnel on 120 and check out the size of that cliff, note where you usually climb, and extrapolate.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Dec 28, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
Awesome stuff Ed, thanks for sharing, good to revisit a route after some time away!!!!

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 28, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
I went digging today and found some old slides of my May 1975 ascent of The RORP with Gary Clark.

Thought the photos might be fun for you route-history buffs. Of course, the route was well established by the time we scuffed up it. It was just one of those considered good "warm-ups" for aspiring Yosemite climbers.

Gary had climbed some in Yosemite, but I had not.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
so cool!
looks like that last picture in the sequence is the upper pitch, next to the last (?) before getting on the exit ledge.

thanks for posting these!

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Dec 28, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
Thanks Ed and nice photos Fritz.
History and history!

Dec 29, 2011 - 11:23am PT
Nice pics Fritz, Thanks,

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 29, 2011 - 11:52am PT
Old pics of old routes... so cool!
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