Horse Chute, Horse Play, or Magic Mushroom

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
James Durbin

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 12, 2003 - 02:56pm PT
Hey,
I was wondering about some of the more obscure routes on the south west face of el cap. In Don Reid's old book Horse Chute and Horse Play are both rated A3 and Magic Mushroom is A4. Does anyone have any beta on these routes, and do the ratings still hold? Let me know if you got any info.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
Feb 12, 2003 - 04:47pm PT
Horse Chute is a giant POS.... even Hugh Burton agrees.

Do the Mushroom instead.
Russ
James Durbin

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2003 - 05:49pm PT
How difficult would you say Magic Mushroom is (more or less)?
Ben Rumsen

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 12, 2003 - 07:57pm PT
What makes Horse Chute worse than say Dihedral Wall, Russ?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 12, 2003 - 08:13pm PT
Yep, everyone seems to agree that Horse Chute has one killer Lost Arrow corner and the rest of the route is either ok or lame. There is one pitch with a wide crack that oozes slime.

Magic Mushroom is supposed to be pretty good. Harder than The Shield because an extra 10 mostly aid pitches to mammoth terraces. Overall no super burly aid pitches, just continuos A2 and C2 with a few A3 sections here and there. This route will definitely be in the next edition of my book. All the anchors have been replaced by the ASCA.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
Feb 13, 2003 - 01:39pm PT
Chris is correcto.... HC has probably 3 good pitches, with one of those being superb.

Dihedral has history on its side.... besides that, it is probably only a bit better than the HC. (only done the first 5? to HC)

Mushroom (as I've been told) is like A2+ and is a burly-er version of the Shield. It gets good reviews from most everyone.

Russ
Ben Rumsen

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 13, 2003 - 02:48pm PT
Thanks Russ. I was curious as I climbed Dihedral Wall my first time up El Cap and enjoyed it overall ( it too has one grassy slime pitch on it ) and I didn't see why Horse Chute would be much worse. But I've enjoyed most of the walls I've climbed ( they're all just different IMO ).
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 2, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
I didn't really like the top of Magic Mushroom that much, which was a surprise. From the ground, it's a striking and obvious line. But when you get up there, it kinda sucks - the corners are really awkward! You get a nice clean-aid crack, but it's so bloody deep in the corner, you end up making these short aid moves because you can't stand tall, the piece is so deep in the corner. Bloody awkward, I didn't like the route much. There are so many better routes in the area, like Sunkist! That bugger is brilliant, man.

The McTopo for the top part of the Mushroom sucks. I sketched it properly, and can scan it and send it to Chris if he reminds me when I get home. In fairness, the McTopo was drawn by Nanook, who told me he climbed from Grey Ledges to Chickenhead Ledge in a day, and did the sketch from memory. So it's not so good.

I'll let you know about Horse Chute and Horse Play as we're headed up that way.
duncan

Trad climber
London, UK
Oct 3, 2007 - 03:04am PT
Sunkist is a fine route. There are no bad sections or long ledge falls. The headwall has 3 excellent pitches and it's fabulous to be up there in the evening, still in the sun whilst the rest of the crag is dark. If you counterbalance haul you get to dangle over the lip of the Heart roofs, slowly rotating over 1200' of nothing, thinking how amazing Jolly Roger looks. P18, just after it joins Son of Heart is one of the more out-there spots I've been to on El Cap. Take a large cam for the chimney like I should have done first time...


The All Time Aid Crack

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 3, 2007 - 10:07am PT
The Mushroom does have one thrasher pitch with arrows, or at least that's what I used, in the back of a tight overhanging flare. Other than that, the route's a great line. The pitches above that, below Chickenhead, are really good, one in a bottomed flared chimney that allows you to comfortably stem while tinkering, with huge exposure. The start to Mammoth is cool too.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 3, 2007 - 10:07am PT
The Mushroom does have one thrasher pitch with arrows, or at least that's what I used, in the back of a tight overhanging flare. Other than that, the route's a great line. The pitches above that, below Chickenhead, are really good, one in a bottomed flared chimney that allows you to comfortably stem while tinkering, with huge exposure. The start to Mammoth is cool too.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 3, 2007 - 10:07am PT
The Mushroom does have one thrasher pitch with arrows, or at least that's what I used, in the back of a tight overhanging flare. Other than that, the route's a great line. The pitches above that, below Chickenhead, are really good, one in a bottomed flared chimney that allows you to comfortably stem while tinkering, with huge exposure. The start to Mammoth is cool too.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 3, 2007 - 10:07am PT
The Mushroom does have one thrasher pitch with arrows, or at least that's what I used, in the back of a tight overhanging flare. Other than that, the route's a great line. The pitches above that, below Chickenhead, are really good, one in a bottomed flared chimney that allows you to comfortably stem while tinkering, with huge exposure. The start to Mammoth is cool too.
couchmaster

climber
Oct 3, 2007 - 03:48pm PT
Ha Ha! Anything worth saying once is worth repeating 4 times Kevin:-)

Take care:

Bill
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Oct 3, 2007 - 03:51pm PT
Adam Stack (possibly the Huberbaum, someone regardless) spent awhile on the route a few years ago freeing a majority of Magic Mushroom. Bring your dancing shoes Dan.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 3, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
oops!oops!oops!oops!
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Oct 4, 2007 - 06:05am PT
Yuppers, a lot of those flares on the Shroom should go free.

Great route.

The one section that was originally rated A4 is not too bad at all.

The groove pitch on the lower shroom will certainly get your attention at 5.9!

Brutus
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 4, 2007 - 11:39am PT
Greetings Sir Duncan,
You are one determined gent after that epic 100' fall on your first solo attempt! Did you have a partner on the second go round? To everyone that whines for a rescue at the first sign of trouble, note that Sir Duncan extracted himself and withdrew from 2000' up with a broken arm! That sort of display of raw guts and grit is what gets you a K as a climber. Glad to see you posting mate, even if blushing a bit.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Oct 4, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
That sort of display of raw guts and grit is what gets you a K as a climber.

'K' as in strikeout?
duncan

Trad climber
London, UK
Oct 5, 2007 - 09:13am PT
Hey Steve, thank you for your kind words!

Getting off the thing wasnít too bad. Straight down would take you over the Heart roof, but you can do a diagonal abseil-tension traverse across the grey band into Magic Mushroom. Once there, itís straight down to the floor.

I went back up on my own in 1996. I couldn't try it any other way. I was a bit slower and a lot more frightened than in 1984, but sometimes that's a good thing. I made it to the top, thinner but in one piece.

I like it here. Iím meeting lots of old friends. I also get to swap Funk recommendations with JB, which is beyond cool as far as Iím concerned.
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