Announcing Longs Peak Diamond FA DVD Kamps & Rearick 1960

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LongAgo

Trad climber
Mar 14, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
I wrote this blurb for possible inclusion on the DVD jacket, but turned out only a short line or two could be used for space limitations and to catch the eye. Here's the blurb in full as I first wrote it, a little bit in "jacket" language, but the points all stand true in my mind:

"A large, discerning story of the Diamond first ascent. Witness the quiet but powerful souls of climbers Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick, as they keep true to their love of climbing and their bond of friendship to navigate hurdles of competition between climbers, onerous federal permit and safety barriers, weather uncertainties, waterfalls and bivouacs, now dated climbing gear, and finally manage media bungling and celebrity status after their success. Follow along as Bobís wife Bonnie narrates and Dave of today speaks in exacting detail. Then go beyond the Diamond as Bonnie, with compelling personal touch and wit, shares her lifelong love and admiration of Bob and shows how the passion of the two great Diamond climbers played out into lasting friendship and future climbing days. A remarkably full and insightful portrait of a historical climb, with rich human take unique in climbing tales."

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
Beautiful review Tom!

Thanks for posting the long version. This really is a unique and singular climbing documentary and your eloquent words make that plain.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 15, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
Thanks, Tom. Yes that really was the beginning of my climbing.
I had started earlier, but that great climb triggered some kind of
sense of the mystical in me, that dark wall that loomed so huge
and fearsome, the tiny white lines across it that were in fact
large ledges of snow, the shadows of afternoon that fell across the wall,
how inspiring it was even from far below, along the road, to look up
and see the Diamond and imagine two men were up there... Photos
in the newspaper captured the two, seemingly both dressed
in white, or maybe it was the light... I could actually imagine
being up there with them, and as some wondrous childhood dreams
come true I would indeed find myself on the same rope with both
Bob and Dave again and again in years to come... I can't ever
look at the Diamond without thinking of my two incomparable friends.
Chris Wegener

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Mar 15, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
bump for Bonnie
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
Pat wrote a nice article about a Diamond reunion between Bob and Dave...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=506619&msg=1292043#msg1292043
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 17, 2011 - 02:52am PT
Steve,that Link. Where does it go? On my computer it didn't
go to the Kamps Rearick reunion piece...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
Pat- It works on my computer...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Mar 17, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
The Diamond
The Diamond
Credit: crunch
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
Sweeeeeeet Shot Crusher!
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 17, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
Wow, look at that beautiful wall. It was so clean and
virgin back when... so little did we know... our gear was
kind of primitive when we did those first routes... The
sense of adventure was wonderful and thrilling.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Mar 18, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
Glad folks like the photo. Rough weather that day, so we climbed on Red Wall instead.

Here's one of the foliage to be seen on the way up to the Diamond:
Columbines
Columbines
Credit: crunch
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Mar 18, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
Bonnie, so great to hear from you. :D Thanks for telling me about this site. Having spent just a tiny bit of time with you I know how much work went into this very special dvd.

What's awesome are the details you saved from that incredible event. I so enjoyed viewing the original permits, receipts, news articles and more you were kind enough to share with me when I stayed a brief day with you.

You are one great lady. Cheers, Lynne
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 18, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
Bonnie, you might think about having someone copy all those articles
and publications, and start a full exhibit for somewhere, not sure
where, but something along the lines of the Yosemite "museum" Ken runs...
Maybe there's an appropriate place in Estes, but then how many would
see it there. Better maybe would be the Colorado Mountain Club/AAC building
in Golden...
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Mar 18, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
Patrick Oliver,

That is a wonderful idea. What these two men accomplished was awesome. Just getting the permit to do this was a challenge. lynne
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Saturday morning Diamond bump!

Bonnie alerted me to this news clip.

http://www.9news.com/news/story.aspx?storyid=147326&catid=222
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Mar 20, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
BUMP - TFPU
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Mar 21, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
I'll bump this for Bonnie. It was a great and courageous
thing to put this together, and an important contribution to
the history... Kamps and Rearick were, in my eyes, the greatest.
Both humble geniuses.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Mar 22, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
BUMP
Chris Wegener

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Mar 25, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
I know I'm whistling into the wind but...

Climber's forget or don't care about their history. (I know, your're all young and immortal and *far* better than all those old farts who used to putter around the rocks but bear with me.)

This is a wonderful presentation that shows the opening up of a new frontier. It is easy to forget that everything was not always sticky rubber, cams and bomber bolts. We need to look back occasionally and remember where it all started and how primitive and uncertain it used to be.

I highly recommend it to all who share an interest in our sport and its origins.

Regards,

Chris
Bonzo

Sport climber
Austin, TX
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Bob was not only a great climber, but one of the friendliest and kindest people I ever met, even to newbies, which I was when I met him.
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