What was your first climb in Eldorado Canyon?


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Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 2, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Yes, this is a blatant "copy cat" thread, but in spite of that, these are CLIMBING RELATED, and not polititard threads!

Mine was a late 1960 ascent of "Redguard," using the "Variation to the Lower Meadow." When Bob Culp suggested we do the climb in an amazingly warm period of November/December, I was a bit hesitant due to a sprained ankle from a spill downhill skiing. I dug out my clunky Kronhofer mountaineering boots and off we went. As a still "rookie' climber at the time, i was very happy to climb what was then considered "a most excellent adventure."
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
First and only sadly: Calypso.

I had to pick an easy route because I was taking a pudgy, non-climbing friend from grad school with me. He totally walked up the thing. A natural.

Trad climber
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
I think it may have been the Yellow Spur with Tarbuster? Not sure though. Tar you lurking? Do you know what we first climbed together in Eldo?


mule city
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
yellow spur 1985 with some random dude named john

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
Wind Ridge, 1972, topped out by grabbing and pulling up on Ivy Baldwin's cable (before it was taken down). It was freaky looking across that thing stretched over to the Bastille (my 3rd climb after Calypso) and imagining Ivy out there playing around.

Did climbs with Chuck Tolton, I lead the 2nd pitch on Calypso.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
The Bomb in 1984, with some random kid I found in the parking lot.

Next day, climbed in Boulder Canyon, and, caught a huge whipper a different new partner took, probably a 50 footer. Busted up, I had to half carry him back to the road (foot and ribs). He couldn't walk, and, was in a lot of pain, but, asked if I was around the next day and maybe we could climb again...

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:29pm PT

I climbed it with Carl Siegel, with whom I worked. Carl died not that long after on Longs Peak. (RIP).
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
Bastielle Crack

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
Mine was Redguard with Layton Kor and Larry Dalke in 1963.
Wore Kluttershues and tied directly into the rope with a bowline.

Trad climber
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
Bastille in 84. We were at the second belay and Rossiter soloed past. Welcome.

Trad climber
Longmont, CO
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
The Bomb and then Breezy on Wind Tower, 1971. Goldline, 1" swami, pins, and mostly steel biners.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
bastille crack

Mar 2, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
Calypso after work. T-storm moved in. We hunkered down in a cave mid way up the 3rd pitch. It got dark and still crazy storming. We had no headlamps. Managed to get to the top. Spent an hour looking for the rap anchors in said storm. Made it back to the car at midnight. I still laugh about that 15 years later.



Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
Never made it there. I didn't own any white painters pants. NTTAWWI

Mar 2, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
calypso. i remember being quite intimidated too.

Social climber
Mar 2, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
first climb in Eldo was my first roped climb ever, Whale's Tail left. Next was Whale's Tail, right, where I broke off a hold and made the climb a grade harder, hahaha, that was me! Graduated to Calypso right away. Climbed that thing so many times I was soloing it after a year. The Bastille Crack felt like a whole 'nuther ball game.

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 2, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
Calypso to the top of Wind Tower. No Reggae that time.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Mar 2, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
I like Jan's response.

1977: Calypso, Wind Ridge then the Bastille Crack. BC is still one of my favorite climbs.

Trad climber
Red River NM
Mar 2, 2011 - 02:29pm PT

Trad climber
santa fe
Mar 2, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
I had just started climbing when I was sent to Boulder for a work conference. Somebody at the Dept. of Commerce labs had heard that I started climbing and offered to take me after work. We climbed Calypso. It was also one of my first multi-pitch climbs.
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