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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jan 16, 2006 - 01:16pm PT
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From Karl
"It is possible to rap from the bolts under the roof 200 feet from the ground. It seems like those would be accessible from the bolts on the little ledge two or three pitches up BW. I don't have the topo down at the cabin."
From the bolted anchors on the sport route right of BW (these anchors are about the same height as the 4 belay on CP), you cannot get to the anchors just under the roof with two 60's. I tried and came up short.
Once you swing around the corner into BW, I think it would be hard to get back out of the corner onto the main face to get to the anchors under the roof. Been a while since I've been there, but I remember that corner being pretty big.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2006 - 01:30pm PT
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The bolts on the little ledge on the BW corner are the previous station of the bolted route and not a part of the original BW anchors. They are not on the main face but rather halfway out the dihedral. I don't think it would be a problem to rap from there to the ones below the roof.
The beauty is, you can see if somebody's working the first pitch of BW from those anchors so you'll know whether you need to stay out of their way or just rap BW.
Peace
Karl
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 16, 2006 - 03:52pm PT
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Largo - I had the pleasure of talking with Allen Steck a few years back and I asked him what his favorite Yosemite route was...
without thinking twice he said "Serenity Crack"
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 16, 2006 - 03:55pm PT
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I think that Sons of Yesterday is a big bonus for Serenity Crack. I think it's even better than Serenity Crack. Largo, had that route been established the last time that you climbed Serenity?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2006 - 04:16pm PT
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It was sweet man. We were climbing in our shirtsleeves while looking down on snow in Curry village. Next day the place gets dumped on and there's still ice on the wires outside my house.
I agree, Son's makes Serenity a double classic.
Whuupps. Dont forget kids. It's a death route now and you should stay away when I want to climb it. The first 60 feet the crack is totally wet too.
Bye now
Karl
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Apr 28, 2008 - 06:35pm PT
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Werner I know iv'e mentioned the azz kickings though
I have never took part in the style wars.
I really don't mind if the chicken bolt is here,
Copyright © Chris McNamara
and I admit i'll probably use it, hoping to climb in the valley again.
Been 20 years since I've been on the pillar however I thought
there was pre-set webbings and I also used my own anchors
(webbings)? I don't remember any drilled, though I have not
been past 7 and the bolt between Kor Beck was probably placed
in style on lead? Either way both routes I rappelled for the descents.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 28, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
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You bumped for that?! Bored, dude?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 28, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
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I have an idea. Send Zack down to Josh and have him chop all the unnecessary bolts and chains that have sprouted to save lazy folk the effort of downclimbing an 80 foot crag.
First target: the chains at the top of Poodles are People Too.
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Apr 28, 2008 - 06:56pm PT
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First target: the chains at the top of Poodles are People Too.
What? I probably agree. Can't they go up white lightning and TR?
I don't think I remember chains there or a need with a walk off?
Back to Middle Cathedral. The 1'st 5 pitches are the classics.
May not be worth while to do the full climb possibly @ grade 5.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 28, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
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Matt had some lame post in there, Karl, which has since been deleted. That was the bump.
Cheers.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Apr 28, 2008 - 07:34pm PT
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I did The Central Pillar to the top in the mid '80's with a guy I met in the Camp 4 parking lot. His name, best I can recall is Mike Loeffler and he was then in the business of making Gore Tex hats. Called himself the mad hatter...
Anyway the climbing becomes more serious after the place where most folks rap.
Leave the rap anchors.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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Central Pillar has been rap friendly since I started climbing it in 1980.
It's true that many of the anchor were fixed pins but heh, aren't we beyond considering rusty pins to be superior permanent rap anchors to bolts yet?
Particularly in a route that sees several ascents every day
peace
karl
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 28, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
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Yes, your's is the only link in the thread pointing to the Serenity thread, Karl. I just commented cause Matt posted some lame one-liner, that didn't mean anything in the thread, didn't link to the other thread, etc. and then erased the post. What did that have to do with you? You posted after our posts. I don't get what you're after?
So, since I'm here... Sure. Did CPF last year and rapped down onto BW to check that out, as we'd been wanting to do that. Will do it again this year and probably do BW, as well. The route is always busy, yadda, yadda, yadda... I'd say leave the anchors due to the traffic on the route. That seems like the most logical choice.
Oh yeah, and I REALLY enjoyed reading about a guy getting a line of bolts in the hood of his car. hahaha Sounds like he probably deserved it and it was clever.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2008 - 08:16pm PT
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Hi Nefarious
in the course of those deleted posts and multitasking, I misunderstood what you were saying to me and to the thread. Sorry. I'l just delete the posts referenced to that.
Peace
karl
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 28, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
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But would it be lead-chopped, or rap-chopped?
More seriously, if you sat at the bottom and polled climbers as they started the climb, 99.99999% of them would say to leave the rappel anchors. Likewise if you polled everyone who's ever done the climb, including those who did the first ascent.
The first time I did it, in the mid 1970s, there were the usual rusty fixed pins and messy slings for rappelling. The last time I did it, in 2004, I was glad to see they'd been upgraded. Though I guess rockfall damage will always be a concern there.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 28, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
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" But would it be lead-chopped, or rap-chopped? "
That's a good question... IS there a consensus on this? With all of the "chop talk" going on lately... I'm of the frame of mind that if someone can't do the climb, they shouldn't even be thinking about chopping the route. If you can't climb it legit, then leave it the f*#k alone, basically.
I sat and re-read this whole thing, and noticed that whoever this Zach character was, he didn't even come close to having the credentials to be chopping half the routes he was talking about.
So, is there a chopper's ethic?
Karl - No worries, dude. I was hoping you'd stop by and hang a bit Saturday night. Jeff said he ran into you. I had plenty of awesome wine for you!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Apr 28, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
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Proxy Time !!!!
As a member of the climbing community, I hereby relinquish my vote on this matter to Zach and his buddy. Afterall, they live in or near the Valley which gives them much more right than I to
make the proper decision regarding anchor bolts on Central Pillar. If they want to chop the shite out of every offensive bolt on every trade route in Yosemite it's fine by me because they live in or near the Valley and they know what's best for all of us !!!!
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Apr 29, 2008 - 10:10pm PT
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Gordon did you ever find our film? I went back in the
90's a few times without photos or some maybe with x?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
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Nefarious wrote
"Karl - No worries, dude. I was hoping you'd stop by and hang a bit Saturday night. Jeff said he ran into you. I had plenty of awesome wine for you!"
I was there! I just had to leave around 8 for another obligation. Fatty cooked me a fish and gave me some Lettuce too (not the hippy kind)
next time
peace
karl
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