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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 24, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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ed, i think those are vasque ascenders.
the joke is that cool belay technique.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 24, 2011 - 12:30am PT
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I liked that too, but I convinced myself that there was a stich-plate hiding in there somewhere...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 24, 2011 - 12:45am PT
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yeah, looks like a sticht plate but the fun part is the guide hand on the climber end of the rope and the rope running over pete's shoe.
i suppose that might be one of the sandstone crags and he's trying to prevent rope grooves?
truly selfless.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 24, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
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hey john, was that how pete finally did it? back against that right wall?
I guess so. I did it, then he went back without me and got the 2nd. Not certain, but he managed to squeeze himself into that fold temporarily when we worked on it together. You have to be the right size to do that! Shows the fallacies of grading systems . . .
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 24, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
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How about that anchor in the Son of Great Chimney photo. Is that just slings over that small horn?! Yikes!
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Feb 24, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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It looks like the slings continue out the right side of the picture.
I think that in the belaying picture, Pete is running the rope over his
shoe to keep it off the surface of the rock, as if he wanted some tension
(or at least not enought slack to get out of the way) without letting the
rope obscure the critical handhold.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:54am PT
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There is an old Climbing Magazine article about Pete entitled "The Alchemist." I will try to dig it out.
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Feb 25, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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One thing I remember from Devil's Lake is that if Pete put down his cigar before he started climbing a route - it was hard. Don't know if he is still smoking cigars anymore. Pete was also always about 2 or 3 generations behind in shoes but that never seemed to be a problem for him.
I don't know if he trains in a gym but he did get a pretty good work out digging out the basement with a wheelbarrow and a shovel. He calculated that the total distance of moving the dirt to the edge of his property was 2/3 of the way to Chicago.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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"The Alchemist," Profile of Pete Cleveland Climbing 128 page 82 by Eric Aldrich
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
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Bonnie Kamps sent me this comment and historical note after reading this thread.
Steve,
I was reading the recent thread on Pete Cleveland. Chouinard’s fall on the Crooked Thumb was a sideline. I had always thought that fall was 165 feet but had never checked Bob’s diary. The scan is from an entry dated 1958 (our honeymoon!). It was not written at the time, but from memory, years later. Obviously the length of the fall was an educated guess. Bob was not given to exaggeration. I remember the aftermath clearly. I kept adding liquid to a big pot of chili that was cooking down over the open fire and was happy to hear that wonderful sound of hardware jangling that announced their late return. They told me what had happened like it was all in a day’s climb. After eating we piled into the car and drove to Jackson Hole’s St. John Hospital. Yvon had a small round wound near his knee and thought it best to get a tetanus shot as part of their descent route was through a moose swamp. The rope would have been Columbia nylon. Bob continued to climb with a single loop of rope around his waist tied with a bowline for years after that.
Happy to read the kudos for Pete Cleveland. He didn’t blow his own horn and consequently many do not know of his achievements. We stopped to see him at his house in Baraboo after he had retired. He was designing and building one-of-a-kind works of furniture that were freeform with an Art Nouveau feeling. Each beautifully made piece was awe inspiring. He used finishes of his own creation that brought out depth and beauty in the wood beyond anything we had ever seen.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2011 - 03:28am PT
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> "The Alchemist," Profile of Pete Cleveland Climbing 128 page 82 by Eric Aldrich
it's by Brad Werntz.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Feb 26, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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Nice to see the thread on Pete. Pete was and still is a VERY good climber.The reason some folks have not heard of his climbs was because he didn't do them in big name areas and did not seek the limelight.His climbs done in the mid 60's were as hard as anything else out there at the time.There were probably only about 10 guys our less in the country pullin down at this level in the 60's.
Pete's climbing was very precise and elegant,he would find solutions to climbs that would not require alot of power. His other abilty was one of boldness.His climbs speak for them selves.
Pete is also a great man.He raised 2 kids by himself in his house near the Lake.That alone is a feat most men could not do.I can remember him bringing his kids to climb with us when they were toddlers.
Pete also gave us(DLFA) a refuge and guidance during our years at DL.He would let us party at his house and bivy in his yard and old sauna.He didn't even mind if we threw up in the yard.
Pete is very humble about his climbing accomplishments and ability.True he was competitive and would often try and put us young upstarts in our place with some witty comment,but in some ways I think he was pushin us along with sarcasm.
Pete is very intelligent and could discuss many subjects that wer way beyond our juvenile grasp.He also could tell some great stories and say some hilarious things.Like the time he told us that "nuts leave scars in the rock and all these climbs are much easier now due to the many hands and feet of climbers" We're talking DL quartzite here.Or the time he said he would pound Bill Swilliam Russell for aiding some route that he had freed.
Great climber and even better man for raising two good kids by himself.
Club Salute to Pete Cleveland.
p.s.yes he was in the dlfa
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Feb 26, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
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just one photo of a few I have of Pete.Iwill try and post more.Steve Sangdahl
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Feb 26, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
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Just a few from the Lake.
peace and f-nes,steve sangdahl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 26, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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thanks Steve, great tribute to the man, and wonderful pictures.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A nice but brief profile from a Fred Knapp article History of Rock Climbing in America that appeared in Rock and Ice July 1997.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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just a few more pics of the man.
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DWB
climber
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Pete's house still looks like that, right outside the park. He was a physician in Baraboo. Still see him out mowing his lawn on occasion or hiking around the Lake. Amazing climber.
That photo on page 1 is Kris Gorny, a physicist from Poland/Minnesota. Taken by Chris Eggert, October 2008. Kris was mentioned in the Climbing article, among other more recent badasses.
That route has seen just a few true onsights, as far as I can tell. Pete Cleveland, Chris Hirsch, Jay Knower, maybe a few others? It's still a badass onsight. Finnicky protection, blind crux move(s), long fall potentials.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 27, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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Futuristic Bump...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!