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bob
climber
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Feb 13, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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Phylp, I don't believe any rock fall damaged Piece. Scavenger fell out effecting the 3rd(?) pitch of Heart of Stone. I can't recall seeing any damage anywhere. Its just that the crux of Piece is like a crumbling JT route in a way. It just changes. The couple of times up there for me were different and I watched it change as I climbed.
There is a different way.............
Bob J.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 13, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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When Drew & Will replaced Mr. Kamps, they started replacing ground-up, then got freaked out by the bolts and rapped in to finish. They didn't want to end up drilling new holes (it's hard to pull a bolt on lead and re-use the hole - even if you are super strong stance driller, the problem is pulling the bolt is often not something reasonably done from stance).
Problem with Fairview is that it's just too big - a lot of the rebolting I did in TM was solo "rest-day" (no partner) stuff, and hiking 2 or 3 ropes to the top of a dome and rapping is pretty reasonable. Fairview (and Medlicott) are a bit big to be doing that sort of thing...
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Feb 13, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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Not sure this adds anything really, but I think Randy Leavitt and I did the second of Piece in 77', it took us two attempts. On the first attempt we had just started up the arch when the biggest meanest wall of thunderheads rolled out of the Southeast. We got stuck on the block belay above the crux for several hours in a storm that killed some people down in Tenaya Canyon. Luck would have it that we had a single bolt, Harrington asked us to beef up a belay at the top of the arch. We left a bunch of stuff to get down and had to drill a single bolt, no back up and no ledge, in the middle of nowhere to reach the ground. As we were both kids without a car, we resigned our self to walking back to the campground when Bob shows up with a thermos of tea and a ride back to camp.
I couple of days later we went back up, and all went smoothly, retrieving our gear and having a good time. I got to lead the crux pitch both times as I really wanted to do it clean. Randy was the better climber, but he let me have that one. I remember it as being flaky, but doable. I can’t imagine doing it without those flakes. I thought the 5.9 knob pull out of the arch was the most fun as it was unexpected and you knew it was in the bag after that.
It is a good route, it would be nice if bolts were replaced. The one I drilled near the top of the arch is just a 1” split shaft, yikes.
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Double D
climber
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Feb 13, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
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It would be worthy to see the bolts replaced on Piece and on Mr. Toads. Both ulta-classics in my feeble memory. Both bold FA's imho.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 13, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Most of the 1/4" are 1". :-)
Bob, some time ago, I promised the Kid that I would replace Burning Down the House, so I am still on the hook for that one!
I'm still psyched to do it, also.
Greg, it is good to be aware of the potential for core shots, and I don't think it is that hard to clip to intermediate anchors.
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bob
climber
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Feb 13, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
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"I'm still psyched to do it, also."
Well Clint?
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Feb 13, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
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Greg,
Yea, I remember that day. "What's that white thing on the rope?" Now THAT was a core-shot.
Clint,
Just answered your e-mail. Now I read this thread. I guess I got some of the issues right that we will face :-)
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Feb 13, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
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hey bob, i feel a little responsible for burning down the house, and heck, it's only like 13 bolts right. so, i'll seed if i can't replace the bolts by say mid july. i also need to look at coup de gras, it needs replacing also,
it is, like burning down the house, still without a second ascent, i believe.
hey clint, maybe we could get together to replace it since you nseem to already be on the hook for it. ciao, shipoopoi
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Feb 13, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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oh, and i did piece on july 23, 1985, with lydia painkiher, and onsighted the crux, most likely wearing fires. ss
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bob
climber
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Feb 13, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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Shipoopoi, I was on Mr. Toad's last summer and was looking up at CdeG and I thought the bolts looked good. At least compared to some of that other sh#t on that dome. That route looks sweeet!
So, how bad are the bolts? Mr. Toads seemed way worse, but there's a million of them foil hanger rascals.
Bob J
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 13, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
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Greg, might it not be workable to fix a long rope from the top, as Roger did on Half Dome last year, but to use multiple intermediate anchors, to ensure the rope stayed where it was wanted, and to reduce the chance of abrasion or worse?
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MisterE
Social climber
MEEP MEEP
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Feb 13, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 13, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
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Sure, that shouldn't be a problem - but the swinging back and forth to get to other routes, and particularly repeat jugging, should be avoided.
Roger knows this, he's replaced TONS of bolts in the Meadows - the entire right end of Medlicott, all routes on the steep right side of Dozier Dome (Ursula, etc), tons on Pywiack and elsewhere. He ran us ragged trying to fix ropes for him (he did so much that we couldn't keep up and he did his own fixing for much of it). He couldn't find enough bolts to replace so he had to move down to the Valley! And he saw the mild looking knobs that core shot the rope on Bombs.
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TC
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 14, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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by David Money Harris
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 14, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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It would be awesome to see these old Fairview bolts get replaced! I've been a chicken about getting on some of these old classics due to the obvious condition of some of the lead bolts and stations. Many Kudos for this proposed effort!
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Feb 14, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
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The story in 77 was that right after Nick and Randy got rained off, Bob
Harrington and Dale Bard got on the the climb, then Nick and Randy.
I did it soon after with Vern (4th).
A few months later I was trying it again, and for a variety of reasons we
were retreating. I was with Bruce Morris.
Got to rappel on that fine new single bolt of Nick's.
I have to wonder. Higgins and Kamps had climbed to the dike, just below the
crux on their first attempt several years before the first full ascent.
How did they retreat, why didn't Nick find their anchors and why didn't
Bruce and I find them?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Feb 14, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
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Actually, I feel that most (all) of the bolts on P de R probably could/should be replaced from the ground up. Except for the crux pitch, there simply aren't that many bolts and it would be very difficult to do this from the top.
You could simply lead a pitch, replacing mostly by lowering down from the belay (or in a couple places on the stances/belays). The crux pitch may have a lot of funky bolts, but it is nearly a bolt ladder, you could french free up to the last bolt, use the last two as anchors, then lower down and replace (since the belay at the end of the pitch is off left). Then replace the last two.
The bolt on the 5.11a pitch could be easily replaced from the good belay anchor [Separation Anxiety].
The semi-hanging belay could be done when you get there. Hang off the two anchor bolts, place a third good one, and replace one, pulling and patching the second (or better yet, make it a nice beefy 3 bolt belay since you have to do some committing climbing right off the belay).
The bolting and route line is very different than on Mr. Kamps.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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Yes, Piece is not a straight line like Mr. Kamps, but if a big pile of ropes are already on top after doing Burning Down the House, then it would not be that hard to deploy them on Piece.
Here is my summary of Fairview rebolting, judging from the ASCA webpage.
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/tuolumne.htm
Already replaced (on ASCA webpage):
Inverted Staircase (maybe one left, but unnecessary with cams)
Fiddler on the Roof
Inevitable Conclusions
Fairest of All
Hemispheres
Heart of Stone "Replaced most bolts"
Mr. Kamps
Roseanne - all but 1 replaced
Peter, Peter
Great Pumpkin
Partly replaced:
Sorcerer's Apprentice 4 bolts replaced, most others bad
Roseanne 1 left to do
Still to be replaced:
2 Always Arches
12 Burning Down the House
3 Same as It Ever Was [added; see overlay on next page]
12 Plastic Exploding Inevitable
8 Playing with Fire [added; wasn't sure if this was late enough for 3/8"]
6 Fairly Direct (not in the old guidebooks, in U-shaped bowl at top)
25 Piece de Resistance
16 Mr. Toad's Wild Ride (or maybe replaced with Heart of Stone)
16 Sorcerer's Apprentice (4 of 20 replaced)
3 Unh-Unh
3 Unh-Huh
1 Roseanne (all others replaced)
6 King Midas
113 total bolts, with a lot of setup work.
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bob
climber
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Feb 14, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
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Speaking of run out routes on Fairview that need replacing. What about Playing with Fire? Arete-ish climb left of Plastic Exploding. Burley run looking.
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