Piece de Resistance- Fairview Dome

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Kevin McLaughlin

climber
CO
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 12, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
EDIT POST
I did this route- late 90s with Steve Cheyney - Hard crux pitch ( the book claimed .11c) felt much harder- broken holds was my guess...... Anyway... The locals we spoke to scoffed at hearing we had just done this route .They basically called us liars - in so many words. To their knowledge the route had not been done for a long time-maybe years....?? Does anybody know anything about this route or any story to go with it ? I do recall the last pitch being full length and only getting a single slung horn for pro . 5.9 I think. Zero chalk on it and two pins that were supposed to be one belay lifted out when I went to clip into them about the third or fourth pitch. It sure did not seem to have had anyone on it recently. I always wondered why..... so I guess now I am asking . Why? We really enjoyed it. HHhmmm...... Any info would be appreciated . Thanks
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
Liar........................................ :]
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
I think you answered your own question, as to why it doesn't get done that much.
ec

climber
ca
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
LongAgo, where are you...
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=49&Itemid=22
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
Did this route in 1979/80? with Al Bartlett and most recently in 2005 with Vern Stiefel. The crux pitch had definitely changed in the 25+ years. On my first time leading the crux, there were a number of thin edges/flakes at and after the first short traverse left that were completely absent the second time. (In fact, I broke one foothold while leading it the 1st time. The holds were the thin flaky type edges that eventually break - leaving a solid hold or none at all)

The route was always hard (5.11d/12a) in EBs, and even though the second time I led it I had much better shoes, the crux was thinner and required using some very tenuous smears. It still seemed very hard, probably harder.

What struck me the most on the most recent ascent was the poor shape of the fixed gear. The only new bolts were at the belay on the dike traverse route [Separation Anxiety] that runs across Fairview (also the belay below the crux and above the 11a pitch). All the other bolts were crappy 1/4 inchers, with many hanging out or manky. The scariest point on the climb the 2nd time was the semi-hanging belay just below passing over the arch onto easier ground. Two crappy bolts, no other gear nearby, standing on a "ledge" perhaps 1.5 inches wide on a smooth face with 800+ feet of exposure. I didn't even hang on the bolts, but stood there belaying, trying not to weight them. Glad Vern was solid and didn't fall.

Absolutely great and varied climb, but all the fixed gear (except the one belay) is in dire need of replacement.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
The locals we spoke to scoffed at hearing we had just done this route .They basically called us liars - in so many words.

I don't know dude, that seems so unlike Yos.

heh.


Famous line, one of the last of the classic era. FFA during the transitional period. I'd love to do that rig.



Edit: the clown already linked to higgins's story.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Feb 12, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=13&Itemid=19&limit=1&limitstart=2\
that's the page from the Tricksters and Traditionalists article. The earlier thing I linked was a supertopo post longago cross posted to his site about the route.
bob

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 12:14am PT
Great route. Just what Randy wrote. Last time I did it I just got sick of those bolts. I took a bunch of little ones on that foil looking hanger up higher after the little traverse. I have thought about replacing those. Unfortunately thoughts don't do much for replacing bolts. It certainly would be a service. Sean Kriletich and I replaced the anchors after the third pitch when we did Separation Anxiety.
Blah blah.
Anyhow, Piece is certainly a fun route. Get on out there folks!

Bob J.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Feb 13, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Good send kevin! Search no farther and relish your accomplishment!
Kevin McLaughlin

climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2011 - 01:11am PT
Thanks for so much feedback to all . I guess after all these years I had forgotten about the nature of the gear on this route . It is slowly coming back to me now ........ Thanks again folks.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 13, 2011 - 02:56am PT
Maybe Roger could get interested in replacing the bolts on this route and others on Fairview.
He has mentioned it in the past.
Just hike a couple of 600' static lines to the top and all the old 1/4" bolts could be replaced fairly systematically by moving the ropes from one side to the other.
He is running out of bolts to replace in the Valley anyway!
It would be a lot easier than the work he did replacing Autobahn and nearby stuff last summer.
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 10:26am PT
Tuolumne is dangerous to jugging long fixed lines - only one sharp knob in the wrong place and you can quickly get core shots. Roger and Karin and I put a core-shot in a 11mm static very quickly when working on replacing Bombs Over Tokyo. You would have to be really careful trying to treat Fairview Dome like the Valley as far as long fixed lines.

Fixing the lines then doing one route at a time, top down (no jugging back up), is the best call in my opinion. So it might be best to plan very carefully as far as the replacement. Maybe multiple rebolters and try to get particular routes done all at once.

I'll help out anytime I can make it up this summer - hiking ropes to the top at the very least!
bob

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 11:07am PT
Yeah, I bet I could be persuaded to do a job or two, but please can someone do Burning Down the House so I don't have to preview?

If someone wants bolts replaced on a route you want to do, but don't want to see beforehand I'll do it if you do BDH. Greg? Anyone? Beuller?

Bob J.
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 11:19am PT
That's a lot of terrain with not many bolts...might need to bring binoculars to find bolts, even while rapping down! Hope you can get to belay 3 from above - might want to talk to the kid and shipoopi first about whether belay 3 needs 2 bolts if the topo is accurate and it's a 1-bolt belay.

(I don't think I'll have the time to work on any Fairview route in reality other than maybe one day if I'm lucky, and BDH is not a run in and do fast sort of route).
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 13, 2011 - 11:24am PT
Kevin,
I described my mind-taxing experience on Piece de Resistance in a "slab" thread, here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1333056&msg=1333640#msg1333640

I can't remember the exact year but it was probably somewhere in the range 1989-1993. I would estimate that the crux pitch was about 11.d at that time. Sometime after those years there was a big rockfall on Fairview and I remember hearing stories that Piece was one of the routes that had been physically changed due to rockfall damage. Don't know if there is any truth to that.
Phyl
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 13, 2011 - 11:35am PT
Great thread.

No pix, no pix, NO PIX!!!
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Feb 13, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
I'll help with any of that rebolting, I'm there all summer. But, talk is cheap...
Logdog

climber
Yosemite/ Truckee
Feb 13, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
A little off- topic, but we replaced the bolts on Fairest of All last season, with support from Greg and the ASCA. We worked ground up for two reasons. First was so we could climb and enjoy the route, and second, it would have been pretty hard to find some of those bolts from above without prior knowledge. Most of the lead bolts were replaced on lead, 'cause I didn't want to climb above 'em! The condition of some of the lead bolts was really bad, I pulled one out with a sharp tug. I'm not too familiar with "Piece", but you'd probably have to spent some serious time finding those bolts if you rapped in. Maybe fixing off intermediate anchors on the way down could solve some of the traversing/ sharp edge/knob problems. There are lots of great routes on that dome that nobody ever does, probably in part to the condition of the bolts and anchors. Thanks to Greg, we have all the stainless we need, all that;s left are some forearms!!

-Logan
Logdog

climber
Yosemite/ Truckee
Feb 13, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
Dave, I'll take ya up on that offer!
bob

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
Phylp, I don't believe any rock fall damaged Piece. Scavenger fell out effecting the 3rd(?) pitch of Heart of Stone. I can't recall seeing any damage anywhere. Its just that the crux of Piece is like a crumbling JT route in a way. It just changes. The couple of times up there for me were different and I watched it change as I climbed.

There is a different way.............

Bob J.
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
When Drew & Will replaced Mr. Kamps, they started replacing ground-up, then got freaked out by the bolts and rapped in to finish. They didn't want to end up drilling new holes (it's hard to pull a bolt on lead and re-use the hole - even if you are super strong stance driller, the problem is pulling the bolt is often not something reasonably done from stance).

Problem with Fairview is that it's just too big - a lot of the rebolting I did in TM was solo "rest-day" (no partner) stuff, and hiking 2 or 3 ropes to the top of a dome and rapping is pretty reasonable. Fairview (and Medlicott) are a bit big to be doing that sort of thing...
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Feb 13, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
Not sure this adds anything really, but I think Randy Leavitt and I did the second of Piece in 77', it took us two attempts. On the first attempt we had just started up the arch when the biggest meanest wall of thunderheads rolled out of the Southeast. We got stuck on the block belay above the crux for several hours in a storm that killed some people down in Tenaya Canyon. Luck would have it that we had a single bolt, Harrington asked us to beef up a belay at the top of the arch. We left a bunch of stuff to get down and had to drill a single bolt, no back up and no ledge, in the middle of nowhere to reach the ground. As we were both kids without a car, we resigned our self to walking back to the campground when Bob shows up with a thermos of tea and a ride back to camp.

I couple of days later we went back up, and all went smoothly, retrieving our gear and having a good time. I got to lead the crux pitch both times as I really wanted to do it clean. Randy was the better climber, but he let me have that one. I remember it as being flaky, but doable. I can’t imagine doing it without those flakes. I thought the 5.9 knob pull out of the arch was the most fun as it was unexpected and you knew it was in the bag after that.

It is a good route, it would be nice if bolts were replaced. The one I drilled near the top of the arch is just a 1” split shaft, yikes.
Double D

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
It would be worthy to see the bolts replaced on Piece and on Mr. Toads. Both ulta-classics in my feeble memory. Both bold FA's imho.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 13, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Most of the 1/4" are 1". :-)

Bob, some time ago, I promised the Kid that I would replace Burning Down the House, so I am still on the hook for that one!
I'm still psyched to do it, also.

Greg, it is good to be aware of the potential for core shots, and I don't think it is that hard to clip to intermediate anchors.
bob

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
"I'm still psyched to do it, also."

Well Clint?
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Feb 13, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
Greg,
Yea, I remember that day. "What's that white thing on the rope?" Now THAT was a core-shot.

Clint,
Just answered your e-mail. Now I read this thread. I guess I got some of the issues right that we will face :-)
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Feb 13, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
hey bob, i feel a little responsible for burning down the house, and heck, it's only like 13 bolts right. so, i'll seed if i can't replace the bolts by say mid july. i also need to look at coup de gras, it needs replacing also,
it is, like burning down the house, still without a second ascent, i believe.

hey clint, maybe we could get together to replace it since you nseem to already be on the hook for it. ciao, shipoopoi
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Feb 13, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
oh, and i did piece on july 23, 1985, with lydia painkiher, and onsighted the crux, most likely wearing fires. ss
bob

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
Shipoopoi, I was on Mr. Toad's last summer and was looking up at CdeG and I thought the bolts looked good. At least compared to some of that other sh#t on that dome. That route looks sweeet!
So, how bad are the bolts? Mr. Toads seemed way worse, but there's a million of them foil hanger rascals.
Bob J
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 13, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
Greg, might it not be workable to fix a long rope from the top, as Roger did on Half Dome last year, but to use multiple intermediate anchors, to ensure the rope stayed where it was wanted, and to reduce the chance of abrasion or worse?
MisterE

Social climber
MEEP MEEP
Feb 13, 2011 - 10:52pm PT
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 13, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
Sure, that shouldn't be a problem - but the swinging back and forth to get to other routes, and particularly repeat jugging, should be avoided.

Roger knows this, he's replaced TONS of bolts in the Meadows - the entire right end of Medlicott, all routes on the steep right side of Dozier Dome (Ursula, etc), tons on Pywiack and elsewhere. He ran us ragged trying to fix ropes for him (he did so much that we couldn't keep up and he did his own fixing for much of it). He couldn't find enough bolts to replace so he had to move down to the Valley! And he saw the mild looking knobs that core shot the rope on Bombs.
TC

Trad climber
Claremont, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 12:04am PT
A couple of winters ago.
A couple of winters ago.
Credit: TC

by David Money Harris
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:35am PT
Roger and I looked over the bolt counts on Fairview routes that have not been fully replaced, and it is slightly over 100 bolts.
Worthy climbs, and a lot of setup time.
So an expanded crew to help with setup would be good.
I see a couple of volunteers already - cool.
(and maybe do the drilling as well on the routes which have only a few bolts to fix).
At a minimum, we can get to Burning so Bob can go for the onsight!
Let's plan more when June is closer.

Burning Down the House threads:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=968796&tn=0
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/446301/Kid-any-possibility-for-a-TR-on-Burning-Down-the-House
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Feb 14, 2011 - 11:12am PT
It would be awesome to see these old Fairview bolts get replaced! I've been a chicken about getting on some of these old classics due to the obvious condition of some of the lead bolts and stations. Many Kudos for this proposed effort!
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
The story in 77 was that right after Nick and Randy got rained off, Bob
Harrington and Dale Bard got on the the climb, then Nick and Randy.
I did it soon after with Vern (4th).
A few months later I was trying it again, and for a variety of reasons we
were retreating. I was with Bruce Morris.
Got to rappel on that fine new single bolt of Nick's.

I have to wonder. Higgins and Kamps had climbed to the dike, just below the
crux on their first attempt several years before the first full ascent.
How did they retreat, why didn't Nick find their anchors and why didn't
Bruce and I find them?
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 14, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
Actually, I feel that most (all) of the bolts on P de R probably could/should be replaced from the ground up. Except for the crux pitch, there simply aren't that many bolts and it would be very difficult to do this from the top.

You could simply lead a pitch, replacing mostly by lowering down from the belay (or in a couple places on the stances/belays). The crux pitch may have a lot of funky bolts, but it is nearly a bolt ladder, you could french free up to the last bolt, use the last two as anchors, then lower down and replace (since the belay at the end of the pitch is off left). Then replace the last two.

The bolt on the 5.11a pitch could be easily replaced from the good belay anchor [Separation Anxiety].

The semi-hanging belay could be done when you get there. Hang off the two anchor bolts, place a third good one, and replace one, pulling and patching the second (or better yet, make it a nice beefy 3 bolt belay since you have to do some committing climbing right off the belay).

The bolting and route line is very different than on Mr. Kamps.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
Yes, Piece is not a straight line like Mr. Kamps, but if a big pile of ropes are already on top after doing Burning Down the House, then it would not be that hard to deploy them on Piece.

Here is my summary of Fairview rebolting, judging from the ASCA webpage.
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/tuolumne.htm

Already replaced (on ASCA webpage):

Inverted Staircase (maybe one left, but unnecessary with cams)
Fiddler on the Roof
Inevitable Conclusions
Fairest of All
Hemispheres
Heart of Stone "Replaced most bolts"
Mr. Kamps
Roseanne - all but 1 replaced
Peter, Peter
Great Pumpkin

Partly replaced:

Sorcerer's Apprentice 4 bolts replaced, most others bad
Roseanne 1 left to do

Still to be replaced:

2 Always Arches
12 Burning Down the House
3 Same as It Ever Was [added; see overlay on next page]
12 Plastic Exploding Inevitable
8 Playing with Fire [added; wasn't sure if this was late enough for 3/8"]
6 Fairly Direct (not in the old guidebooks, in U-shaped bowl at top)
25 Piece de Resistance
16 Mr. Toad's Wild Ride (or maybe replaced with Heart of Stone)
16 Sorcerer's Apprentice (4 of 20 replaced)
3 Unh-Unh
3 Unh-Huh
1 Roseanne (all others replaced)
6 King Midas

113 total bolts, with a lot of setup work.
bob

climber
Feb 14, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
Speaking of run out routes on Fairview that need replacing. What about Playing with Fire? Arete-ish climb left of Plastic Exploding. Burley run looking.
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
How about that Strassman route near Always Arches that was mentioned in his notes a few months ago?

Let me look...

here it is - Same As It Ever Was aka Arc de Triumph, says they placed 2 bolts:

http://www.climbaz.com/MS_logs/page_html/page098.html

from http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1336370
Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
That sounds right Scruffy. Thanks for jogging my memory.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
Didn't Ed H. replace some or all of 'When you're strange'?
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
I also did it that summer in 1977, with Steve Cereda (RIP) it was the culmination of a really great summer, I led the short crux pitch, but I can't say it was perfect style, I remember my shoe felt loose, and I took a little tension before the traverse to tighten em better. I turned 15 that June and spent two months on my own in the Meadows, spent most of the next 11 summers up there, great times...and I quickly learned the importance of pure free style...

Love to see those old bolts replaced, thanks for all those bolt replacement efforts.

Peter


Hey Nick B! nice to see you on the forum.
climber bob

Social climber
maine
Feb 16, 2011 - 12:06am PT
climbed it and mr toads with dick richardson...fairest of all with urmas...@1981
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:01am PT
Thanks, Greg - I hadn't noticed that. Here's how it seems to fit in:
Fairview Dome North Face: <br/>
Always Arches, Burning Down the House, Sam...
Fairview Dome North Face:
Always Arches, Burning Down the House, Same as It Ever Was
Credit: Clint Cummins

It looks like a lot of Always Arches and Burning Down the House could be accessed by coming in to the upper part of Always Arches from the left via Northeast Margin.
Just fix down a few ropes and I think you could reach everything, including those 2-3 on Same As It Ever Was.
Then escape back left and all's clear.
Probably don't need the "big guns" like Mr. Shipoopi!
But will keep in touch, since it's his route. :-)
It's only 17 bolts for all 3 routes - I'm thinking a 2 day weekend with 2 people and 4-5 ropes.



phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 17, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
Here is an amusing coincidence to this thread:

This morning I am PDFing old tax returns to clear out some space in my file cabinets. For the year 1996, I just came across the first donation check I made to the ASCA. The amusing part is that that there is also a note from the ASCA in the file - hand written on yellow lined paper:

"Dear Phyllis,
Thank you so much for your kind donation. I can assure you, we'll be working hard this spring, summer, and fall, improving anchor conditions around Yosemite. Definately a lot of work, which we've already begun, needs addressing in the Meadows. What a great place.
Climb safe, Steve Sutton"

Here we are, 15 years later. And the work continues!
Old5Ten

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 5, 2011 - 04:48am PT
just finished my fourth day of solo rebolting 'piece de resistance' - all bolts on the route, except the lead bolt on pitch 9, have been replaced with asca bolts/hangers. enjoy!

i think a photo essay tells the story a bit better.

roughly 100 lbs of gear: 240' static line, 70m dynamic rope, 2 gallons...
roughly 100 lbs of gear: 240' static line, 70m dynamic rope, 2 gallons of h2o, BD ledge, rack, aid gear, etc. - makes for one big hoof to the top (especially if you're a skinny guy)
Credit: Old5Ten

Ms. Piggy on top of the world!
Ms. Piggy on top of the world!
Credit: Old5Ten

P6 old anchor
P6 old anchor
Credit: Old5Ten

Tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, ...
Tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, blow, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, blow ...
Credit: Old5Ten

ohne Worte...
ohne Worte...
Credit: Old5Ten

P6 new anchor
P6 new anchor
Credit: Old5Ten

protecting the crux
protecting the crux
Credit: Old5Ten

Basecamp on top of P6.  Many of the lead bolts on Piece de Resistance ...
Basecamp on top of P6. Many of the lead bolts on Piece de Resistance are on the crux 6th pitch.
Credit: Old5Ten

2nd trip, basecamp U-shaped bowl.  Load is down to a paltry 65 lbs, th...
2nd trip, basecamp U-shaped bowl. Load is down to a paltry 65 lbs, thus no Ms. Piggy. Beautiful sunset, but incredible car and airplane noise throughout the night.
Credit: Old5Ten

Old P10 anchor!
Old P10 anchor!
Credit: Old5Ten

Pair of gems with a faded American Triangle on P9...
Pair of gems with a faded American Triangle on P9...
Credit: Old5Ten

Alright, who forgot their stash of Moosehead???
Alright, who forgot their stash of Moosehead???
Credit: Old5Ten

thanks to all who helped in this venture, greg b. for supplies, clint c. for suggestions and beta, mickey s. for pics, beta, and a wonderful route (night shift) that provided many of my rap anchors, tom h. et al. for putting up a great route, and tuan l. from terragaleria for a high resolution shot of fairview. both, mickey and tuan are excellent photographers and a visit to their respective sites is well worth it.

happy climbing,

e. stefke (in memory of brutus of wyde)














Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 5, 2011 - 05:37am PT
Nice work, Elmar!

And since rebolting of Burning Down the House is also mentioned on this thread, Zander and I replaced all the bolts on it over a 2 day weekend this July. So it's ready for your onsight, Bob, if you dare. We also replaced the 2 bolts on Always Arches, and the 3 on Arc de Triumph.
Although these last 3 routes will see little traffic, the rebolting on Piece de Resistance should be appreciated by many!
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Sep 5, 2011 - 09:47am PT
a lot of those routes don't get done anymore because there are so few bolts, no tape or tick marks or some one at the base screaming BETA.
i did this route in the mid 1980's and thought it was BAD ASS. Like ALL Fairview routes, you gotta ROCK CLIMB to get up these routes..
ks
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Sep 5, 2011 - 10:05am PT
Wow! Thanks Elmar! You are forcing my hand!

Flanders and I did the route in the early 90's, and both of us said that we would NOT do it ever again unless the bolts were replaced.

Sounds like it's time to step up to the plate!

Thanks again for all the hard work!
Old5Ten

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 5, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
thanks guys! this route deserves to be climbed. it has excellent position, a lot of variety, and requires some cojones. the new shiny bolts don't make the runouts go away. note that on P2 there is a point where PdR crosses night shift (also a great looking route, if you climb 5.12) on its first pitch. this point currently has two bolts (one old and one new non-asca) and is about 2 bolts down from the night shift P1 anchor.

The sixth, crux pitch just above the dike &#40;Separation Anxiety&#41;...
The sixth, crux pitch just above the dike (Separation Anxiety). Steep, thin face. Pitches 7, 8, and 9, face, OW, and thin crack are looming. The arch is capped off with a short (and relatively low key) 10th pitch over the roof.
Credit: Old5Ten


e.stefke
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Sep 5, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
Thank you so much for replacing the bolts. Really worthy route. Maybe I'll have to do again
AJB

climber
Sep 5, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
Maybe I'll have to do it with you.
Double D

climber
Sep 5, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
A stellar route and proud line. Did the 3rd or 4th ascent WBITD and remember high quality the whole way. Stiff, as I remember.

It would be awesome if the bolts and belays were brought up to snuff. Prolly the same story for Mr. Toads as well. Both TM classics IMHO.

Edit... Bolts replaced? Kewl.
Double D

climber
Sep 5, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
a lot of those routes don't get done anymore because there are so few bolts, no tape or tick marks or some one at the base screaming BETA.

Too funny!
LongAgo

Trad climber
Sep 7, 2011 - 02:41am PT
Old510 was kind enough to get in touch with me and Vern early on to get permission to replace the bolts and get clarification on some things. He also has reported to me by e-mail after the fact and clearly was very careful to not add any new bolts except in one place where, well, we had failed to make a two bolt anchor at the end of P2. I know it sounds strange but there was a time where we actually though a good bolt or single pin was sufficient for an anchor and rappel (to answer a question by Scruffy b about why there was not two bolt anchor evidence of the retreat Bob and I made after a failed attempt), though eventually realized that was dumb and started doing two bolt anchors. Old510 also found P3 had one more old bolt than shown on the guidebook topos (right where the guide shows the rating "5.9") and replaced that one. I confirmed that bolt was original by finding my old hand scrawled topo of the route. So bravo to Old510 for good job.

On other point of interest as I reviewed my old topo: we belayed up high under the big arch in the vicinity of the single bolt shown in the book topo, and then exited the big arch left in an improbable but only 5.8 move onto the face. I show a bolt out there and 5.6 or 5.7 climbing left to a belay and another 5.7 pitch up and left, then back right to a "long flat ledge." Then a 5.8 pitch and final summit pitch with no rating, and no more bolts beyond the big arch other than the one just beyond the arch. The "Master Piece" ending in the guidebook following the big arch out right and over and up over "5.9 poor pro" was never the original route.

The other thing I noticed in the topo was our original ratings were on the low side in several places compared to the guidebook. Guess we were reluctant to rate things too high, but it's very possible the crux pitch was lo 5.12 rather than 5.11 as the old topo says. Yes, that pitch had some flakes prone to breaking off and maybe is harder now, but as another poster notes, JT has the same situation and flakes appear at the same time they fall off as things weather, so things can net out either way I suppose. In any case, the crux pitch is generally well protected and the position and strong line toward the very center of the face always seemed fantastic to me, though there is a bit of ominous feel too as the big arch looms and frowns down upon you as you inch upward feeling like a speck. Overall, still one of my favorite Meadows climbs in my memory for the powerful feeling of the wall and sustained climbing there.

Here's the tale of the FA with Vern from my website, though it's more of a tribute to my lifelong climbing partner Bob Kamps rather than any detailed topo:

http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=20

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Sep 7, 2011 - 11:40am PT
Nice, Tom.
I'll clarify my thinking a bit, regarding old anchors.
When Bruce Morris and I retreated from the climb, we encountered a single
bolt anchor which had been placed by Nick and his partner, when they
were rained off attempting the 2nd ascent.
The mystery to me is that Nick (and we) did not encounter the anchor which
you and Bob must have placed when you retreated from the same spot several
years earlier.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Sep 7, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
This biggest challenge I remember (early 80s with Rick Accomazzo) was that the thin holds were still ripping off left and right. Felt like hard dime work very popular back then at Roubidoux and San Tee.

JL
LongAgo

Trad climber
Sep 7, 2011 - 11:58pm PT
Scruffy B, Sorry I can't help. My old topo does show a pin in the second of the left facing arches on pitch 3 in the guidebook with a funny note, "thick arrows need fixing." Maybe they were the rap anchor but got removed. Just can't recall.

The other big issue is how the climb ends at the big arch system up high. Old510 and I have been e-mailing back and forth and he sent some pics of the area, and best I can recall it's like this: Old510 reports the arch is pretty thick and intimidating in the vicinity of where I say we went over it, yet I'm very sure the climbing over the arch was 5.8 or 5.9 at max, with good holds over the arch, and thereafter 5.6, then 5.7 next pitch, then 5.8, but definitely not out right to P10, 11,12 as in topo with “5.9 poor pro” rating. So for now I'm sticking with the theory we went over the arch somewhere near or even left of where the single bolt is shown under the arch (which may be a pin according to Old510), but then went left (after one bolt over the arch) on easy ground. The only problem with this theory is Old510 didn't see the bolt over the roof where I describe it, but maybe he was focusing on the topo line over the roof more right of where I'm saying we went.

Probably reader's eyes are glazing over at this point, understandably. Got to say I love some mystery in the old routes and maybe someone will get up there and figure it out someday now that Old510 has excited some interest.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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