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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Sep 13, 2016 - 03:37pm PT
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Clint,
I made my marked-on copy of your photo into a PDF. It turned out well.
I can't post it from work (I don't know how to do it from this computer). But I could email it to you. But I no longer have your email address here at work. Could you email me with your address at: bradATyoungwardlothertDOTcom
I'll get you the PDF.
Also, it looks like both photos have the first part of the second pitch a little too far to the right (the climbing is closer to straight up getting to the roof).
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Sep 13, 2016 - 03:56pm PT
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I looked at photos today and it looks like we took photos from every belay, so I'm pretty sure we went from the 2nd pitch anchors to the nice ledge with gear anchor for our 3rd pitch. this was with a 70m rope but I can't remember how much rope was left at the end of the pitch.
I have different edits/suggestions than Brad, so we may have climbed through a different area after the rib (even though he said he was at the belay ledge that I was on ??)
From your 2nd pic, my belay ledge is right of "4" and the dotted line/route should be right as well in that obvious groove/rain runnel feature. If the bolt near "4" is in the approximate spot, I would not have seen it the way I went.
we then went up what looks to be the obvious line up and slightly left, still in a groove feature with all of those features and shelves to the right of the route.
I can post a pic or two tonight looking down from our 3rd pitch belay ledge, which may help.
Another thing to discuss - does anyone know why Secor is sooo wrong on the overlay. I think Spencer got it wrong too but would need to look at that guide to be sure. Did Ken Boche clarify where Nuts and Bolts really was/is in the past?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Sep 13, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
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Here's Clint's photo-topo with my hand drawn comments on it:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 13, 2016 - 05:23pm PT
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Thanks, Brad and splitclimber!
I see you both ended up at the ledge Brad marked 5.
I'll try to get QITNL's original photo and make the corrected overlay on that.
Ken Boche contributed some photos and story from the FA, but I think he did not recall the exact location on the overall photos.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1292666&tn=0#msg1293125
The trick for me was finding the start - it took me 2 days.
Once I saw the first bolt, the climbing (on the first 2 pitches) lined up with Ken's route description and photos.
The start description was off. It was not 200' left of the prow (pillar actually). More like 10. :-)
It's still a puzzle exactly where the NW Face pitches go.
I led up 60m in a couple of spots, but did not see any bolts.
Probably need to climb higher (double bolt belay at end of p3 are the first described bolts).
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 13, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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Thanks, Joe!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
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really want to get out there. ugh, not enough time in the week.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Sep 13, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
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i don't think i've seen the two last pictures before. like the pic of tim drilling over the roof.
brad and i climbed in basically the same area after the belay ledge, through some flakes and corners with some bushes left of the tree.
i must have clipped the pitch three anchor bolt then kept going because I remember 2 bolts on the rib.
maybe i don't remember there being a second bolt or maybe thinking it was a replacement bolt and the leeper just wasn't pulled.
this is one of my most memorable routes because it was the first time doing a backcountry route like this without much beta.
i didn't bring small enough gear for the roof, (gear advice - bring stuff smaller than a yellow tcu) for the roof, so my gear was sh#t. then when I climbed the roof I kept traversing left until it was easy, too easy, to pull the roof.
I never saw the bolt above the roof. I was off in 5.9 territory way above the clipped bolt below the roof, until i saw the second pitch anchor 15 feet to my right and 5 feet below me. when you have to instruct your belayer to yard in a sh#t ton of rope if you peel, well...;) I then had to sack up for the 3rd pitch which looked hard and slick and i couldn't see a bolt.
The rib is the best feature on the route and maybe 5.7.
spencer's description makes no sense to me. why doesn't he mention climbing over a roof?
anyway, soyo threads shouldn't be bumped. ;)
edit: do it munge. actually a return trip here and to mt. clark may win out over the other obelisk at the end of the month. :)
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cleo
Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
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Jun 20, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
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Bump! We have a permit to camp out and attempt to do some climbing near Mt Starr King on July 4th weekend, from Mono Meadows.
Looks like the crux will be getting there via an extra-long approach across the Illiouette Bridge. Does anyone know - Is it faster to cross-country from the bridge or follow trails around?
Also... skeeters! Any ideas of good skeeter-free camping? Just keep heading uphill?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 20, 2017 - 12:28pm PT
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Go from mono meadows,glacier point road...2 hour approach.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 20, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
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Aldude is right,
Mono Meadow trailhead off Glacier Point Road is best approach, but the stream crossing of Illilouette Creek may be the crux. The log in this thread above would seem an option (downstream from trail/river meeting).
To avoid this potential river crossing problem, you could go from Glacier Pt., follow the trail across the bridge above the falls and then either bushwhack up river left (looking up river) or follow the longer trails around...I think Bushwhacking will work, but of course not ideal. Some map studying would inform this plan nicely.
The area is worth the challenge of getting there. Have fun!
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jun 20, 2017 - 01:10pm PT
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It's on my list as well.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 20, 2017 - 05:57pm PT
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We climbed it back in June 2013. It's beautiful. We hiked in from Mono Meadows trailhead (Kevin W might argue for Glacier Point). We intended to do the "Illouette" face shown in red on Clint's overlay but got lost after pitch 2. We went way right up through cracks and ledges to the big ledge shown as pitch 4. We thought we'd find the route again but didn't so we took off traversing about 40' up and right of the big ledge where we found the bolt marked in blue. At this point, we were in outer space as all the photos we saw of the route showed it going up red plates of granite far to the west. At this point, a big thunder storm was rolling up the canyon from the south and we had to go for the top as we didn't have a bolt kit (used to weight the food rope in a tree back at camp) so no way to retreat. So we took off up the gray water streaks between routes (Illouette and Nuts and Bolts) and placed gear when we could but mostly simul soloed the last 5 pitches to the top. There's still a black metoliuos cam on the line if someone wants it. The rock is gorgeous! But beware the dreaded whitethorn guarding the base. The reason we started the route where we did was because one of the clearer paths through the thorns put us there. I traversed over to the top of the first pitch.
When we got to the top the thunder storm arrived to greet us but the brunt of the storm was East of us throwing bolts of lightning as it passed. We Got Lucky! So, in essence, we put up a new line and called it "Colleen's Birthday" to honor her day. I think we signed the register and got off. The hike in was very hot (mid 90's) so it might be smoking in July and of course be wary of thunderstorms. There's a spring near Dome Baez (about half way up the dome?) that should be running this year......Clint might have a better memory of where (I'm sure his memory's better than mine). Speaking of Dome Baez, we originally went to climb and re-bolt one of Kevin Worral's routes but couldn't get to the base due to thorns. Maybe others can and could get on the route as it looks excellent. Also, I think the "Illouette" face is also called the "Tom Rodgers" face? and that's what's referred to on the topo. Clint? I talked to one of the FA parties about that. He said he couldn't remember the ride due to too much smoke...
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 20, 2017 - 07:29pm PT
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Reading back through the thread.....The "Blue Bolt" is probably not the same bolt we passed traversing up and to the right from the big ledge noted as pitch 4 on the "Illouette" face on Clint's overlay. It's the "old bolt" on our topo and is closer to the big headwall on the Illouette face. It was about 40' out from the headwall ledge. Did "Nuts and Bolts" come that close to "Illouette"? I think they're different bolts and not noted. I also remember seeing a ring piton about 20' over from us and about 20' below the big ledge. Also, the overlay picture I show of the "route" we did was from another thread that I can't find. Maybe it was included in a deleted thread? The picture above with the line overlay is from that thread which included the same topo and I posted the overlay and topo back in '14 but can't find it here on the taco's search. We didn't care whether what we did was considered a route or not (Clint doesn't include it in his most recent overlay)even though it's separated by at least a couple of hundred feet between both older routes and doesn't have bolts after the big ledge just like the other routes and even though it goes up a clear line of water streaks of gray friction between the red plates of the other routes, naturally delineating it from the other routes. It is far right of the tree at the top and comes back to it on a crack system. At any rate, I told Eric Gable about our adventure and he decided that it's a route and it will be in the new guide. I did post that I was going to go back and retro it on the Starr King rebolting thread mainly because I want to get my cam back. And since Splitclimber and mtyoung didn't mention seeing the cam on the way up, I'll assume it is was far enough away for it to be at least, a different line. But I don't want to be the one who decides the criteria of what a route is. We didn't leave much of a trail........
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 25, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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Clint
So going back over the intel from splitclimber and mtyoung I don't want to call what we did a route. If your overlay of the "Illouete" face is accurate (and I think it's close because the old bolt you mention as being the lone bolt done on the FA and the crack at pitch 5 is an obvious belay) we made it to pitch 5 and took off just like splitclimber and mtyoung did for the top. Ruppel on a thread I can't find mentioned that after about five pitches up on the whole of Starr King is easy fifth. One can wander anywhere and it's easy climbing. So it's fairly hard, even with FA input to know exactly where the routes go without any gear left behind to denote a line. I'm fairly sure of where the bolt is marked on what I overlayed on the below pics. The space between the bolt on the 4th of "nuts and bolts" and the old bolt on "illouette" if anywhere near accurate would be 60' to 70' apart. So I think the old bolt we passed is the lone bolt you mention as being the only one placed on "illouette" by the FA party.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Sep 11, 2018 - 07:57am PT
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Was out at the King last weekend. mtnyoung nailed bolt placement on “nuts and bolts”. Climbed about 40’ to the right. Saw the whole shootin’ match. The recent fire in the Mono Meadows area is bad. Whitethorn taking over fast. Sad. But the King is beautiful. We climbed directly up the middle of the gray granite south face and my partner said it’s the most pristine granite he’s seen anywhere. There’s a route someone put up at the far end where slabs from the King meet the dome to the south. There are prominent black streaks that we went to explore and saw what look like 3/8” er’s heading up. Looks nice.
P.S. Went to check on the Warbler’s route on Dome Baez. Still intrigued but the intrigue fades as the whitethorn grows.....and grows. It would take hours with a machete. What a shame, Summers are getting harder and harder on Yosemite.
Edit. Jeez, disregard previous edit. Long winded blather. The only little bone of diff to mtnyoung's wonderful direction is the ledge he describes as possible P4 start with one bolt is down and 20' to the left of end of big headwall, not up and left. And to report that we put up a climb which starts 40' to the right from the start of N&B.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Sep 12, 2018 - 06:14pm PT
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Yes Walter, You've seen it past and present. Here is a beautiful shot from QITNL without demarcation....
and one denoting new lines south of Nuts and Bolts....
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 13, 2018 - 05:57am PT
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& then, wstmrnclmr, YOUR GREAT picture,
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that right there is the magic of this Yappity yap-Taco stand,
where I am just part of the free condiments.
Klaus !
Thank You for still gettin' after it and this share.
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Sep 13, 2018 - 07:14am PT
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Did the FA of this route in July this year.
The Raven
It is spectacular
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Sep 13, 2018 - 10:09am PT
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the calling is strong to return, esp. with these new routes.
that section of rock does looks really really good.
Klaus - love your summit register entries on Merced Peak, btw. :)
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