Mt. Starr King

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 107 of total 107 in this topic
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 6, 2011 - 02:36am PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGvBumSfJ80&feature=feedu

what are your experiences with this region?

I'm definitely putting this on my list this year. I mean, why not, right?

LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Feb 6, 2011 - 03:02am PT
H and I climbed last summer in the area. If it was in Tuolumne there would be a thousand routes on it. As it is there are many routes, obvious areas of loose or threatening rock easy to avoid. BEHIND Star King there is a fantastic wall with lots of opportunity. Beautiful waterfalls in the area. Best to go back in and stay a while. Big mushroom stone out there, erosion made the pedastal on the west slope of the dome to the south of Starr King.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 6, 2011 - 03:12am PT
Hiked by there in 80s. Walked all the way around the actual dome and looked at the lake in 90s. The fastest approach imo is leaving the horse trail after Clark Point between vernal and nevada.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2011 - 03:18am PT
Biotch, is that the way you went?

Thx LP.


Any pics?


Banquo

Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
Feb 6, 2011 - 11:48am PT
I was there May 10, 2009 with my son. We went in the day the GP road opened. A very nice father/son trip but the mosquitoes were bad. The creeks were up and I managed to slip on a grassy bank fall into one on the way back to the car.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
It seems eminently do-able in a day, but like LP said, maybe the stay awhile idea should be in effect. argh, permits, I forgot about permits. blech

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 6, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
Took my brother and his friend out here early june 2010, was a wonderful place. Do yourself a favor and start your approach from Mono Meadows, you go through some great rolling country and cross some exciting streams, not to mention we saw perhaps 4 people (in June!) the whole time. The log crossing was one of the cruxes for sure.


scouting the approach


view from the saddle
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
yep, was thinking Mono

keep the pics coming folks. digging it
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 6, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Oh, and we picked up a permit as a walk in for that trip, on a weekend on 6-20-2010. We were the only ones on that trail head for the day.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 6, 2011 - 02:48pm PT



TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Feb 6, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
Note to self:

Mt. Starr King.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
thx gd
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 6, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
munge: check out this tr

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/West-Face-of-Starr-King-Hidden-Gem-of-Yosemite/t10616n.html
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
TT, yeah, exactly. That thread got me thinking about it (see my post in April) about an ideal Munge climb.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Feb 6, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
I nominate Starr King as the site of the first annual ST Leave No Trace Backcountry Exploration Get-Together/Five Day Party.

I'm in.

Edit; Just think Munge, belay slaves, competent leaders at the ready, beer!

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 6, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
The regular route would be a gem for a winter/early spring ascent. South facing, nice and warm, relaxed ski in from various places.....mmmmm
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 6, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
Stable weather, fast snowpack, right NOW.
Hmmmm...
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Feb 6, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
I like Doug's idea--skeez-in!

I hiked in with Les & Bev Wilson via the horse trail cutoff on the way to climb Mt. Clark, 20-some years ago. I think it was June, and we had about a half-mile of total misery scrambling through thick downed-timber slash pile full of 'squitos along the ridge before passing Starr King. Les pointed out a burned-out snag where he spent a frigid bivy one time (can't imagine how that single tree got lit on fire...can you?)

but that's another story for around the campfire at the STaco BackcountryClimb fest. (I'm in there, but only if the approach is via a different route.)

em, skeezingeezering from the old climbers home

PS eKat...you GO girl!!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
The Seas of Stone.
Feb 6, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
Sounds like a grand outing. Low hangin' fruit, as it were, waiting for YOU to pluck.
Oh, yes. It's a Grand Rock. There it is.
damo62

Social climber
Brisbane
Feb 6, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
What would BURT BRONINSON do?
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 6, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Here's what it looked like last weekend Sat Jan 29, 2011 from Merced Crest

Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Feb 6, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
Munge -


you GO girl!!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
The Seas of Stone.
Feb 7, 2011 - 12:46am PT
Terre Haute!
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Feb 7, 2011 - 01:13am PT
Hey Munge,
The regular route is a great fun, easy climb. I highly recommend it. Could easily solo it but the down climb would be intimidating. Hard to believe it was done in l873. Those guys had cojones!
We stayed at the camp above Illilouette creek. Its tricky to cross if its a high flow. After hiking the trail towards Starr King you encounter the trail to Lower Merced Pass Lake. at that point you can cross country to the southwest side of the bump south of Starr King, due east from that point. Up that and start traversing across to the saddle of Starr King proper. Don't climb too high or you have to down climb. If it looks like rain you don't want to anywhere near the gully. There are many little creeks to refill water bottles along the way below tree line.


There are many other routes on Star King as well; 5.8-5.10 mostly on the east side. Plus if those domes in that area were in Tuolumne there would be route everywhere. The other easy climb but not as classic is on the north shoulder. PM me and I would be happy to share more. One of the best views of Yosemite park there is!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 7, 2011 - 02:54am PT
is that the way you went?
yeah - its like dirt slopes - easy walking. I looked at the satellite pictures from that book "above Yosemite" to decide my route, back before google earth.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Feb 7, 2011 - 11:41am PT
nice!
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 7, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
One of my favorite trips. We did it in a day from Mono Meadows. We started at the northeast saddle.

Me, MJ and Judy roped up. Dave G soloed up. First pitch is 75', no pro. Second pitch has a nice crack, take lots of #2s. The third pitch is easy fourth. Great, great rock. Beautiful Sierra granite, well featured. 5.2 at the most.

We rapped down to the southeast saddle. Dave soloed down. A traverse! Wee!

It was a fun day, the hike was beautiful, we did it in October so Illiloutte Creek was low.

No waiting in line!

billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Feb 7, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
Crazy amount of FA potential in that area. To the south there's a smaller sub-dome sorta feature, and the south-ish facing wall looks like it has Shuteye-type featured granite.

Definitely go from Mono Meadows, as GDavis already said.

Lots of bouldering potential if there's gonna be a big group and you want Camp 4 basecamp sorta potential. Here's a crazy mushroom-esque type boulder with several futuristic, proud high balls waiting for a some strong youngin's with hiking boots.


Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 7, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
To the south there's a smaller sub-dome sorta feature

This thing?

billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Feb 7, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
I don't think that is it, but it's hard to tell from the angle. The wall I remember was steeper with more flakes and dikes. But it could be out of the picture you posted.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 7, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
IIRC, this is the same small dome, from the south.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
That's Dome Baez (and probably has other names - oh yea, Outback Dome) and it's to the west of Starr King.

billygoat is probably talking about the south facing wall to the S. of Starr King.

Many routes have been done already on all those other domes.
See the other Starr King threads (W. Face TR, etc) for mention of them.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 7, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
Nate D, thanks for putting a name on that little dome for me.
Banquo

Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
Feb 7, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 7, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
Nothing to add here but a bump for good stuff.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Feb 7, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
I just love this thread. Been out to Starr King on a number of different occasions and always like it. I may be one of the few people who have failed on one of the easy routes on it.

Onetime succeeded on the NE Face route and did the bivy on top. What a spot for an overnight.

The campsite down by Illouette creek is also a beauty (there are a number of them, but the one east of the creek, near the trail junction, pretty much due west of the dome is a gem)

So few people out there and the beauty of Yosemite shines through!

Pictures posted are wonderful. Thanks.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 7, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
That first ascent in 1876 is more remarkable when you realize that friction climbing had not yet been invented.

They would have inch wormed the steepest friction sections on either their backs or their bellies.

Never been back there myself, but it's on the list.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 01:26am PT
seems like a good collective of nuckleheads want to check this out first hand like.

any guesses on when we can do this thing? (skeezing would be styling, but haven't bought a rig yet and that's too far to snow shoe)

when do skeets hit bad? when does snow normally clear out?
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 8, 2011 - 02:44am PT
Sounds like a grand outing. Low hangin' fruit, as it were, waiting for YOU to pluck.
Oh, yes. It's a Grand Rock. There it is.

Everything is always right there until you are looking uphill at it. Hah ha, Starr King Low angle fruit!

To the south there's a smaller sub-dome sorta feature

That is actually to the NW of the main formation. The foramtion Billygoat speaks of is farther to the South along the trail to Merced Pass and directly south of Starr King.

Banquo

Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
Feb 8, 2011 - 10:00am PT
If you aren't on skis, I would watch for the Glacier Point road to open. That will be about as early as you can get in and what we did a couple years ago. It was warm but lots of snow in the shady parts which made finding the trial difficult at times.

I'm not an expert regarding mosquitoes but it seems to me that there are several species and the one I like the least is a large black one that is common around melting snow. Searching this site
http://www.mosquitoes.org/MosqBio.html
I find:

Aedes clivis
Habitat/Ecology - Found in grassy snow-melt pools at higher elevations.
Hosts - Aggressive day biters.
Distribution - Western slopes of the Sierra Nevada.
Vector Potential / Diseases - None

Expect mosquitoes until things really dry out at the end of summer. The summer bloodsuckers are most active around sunset. They thin out below about 60 degrees and you won't see any below about 50 degrees.
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Feb 8, 2011 - 10:11am PT
How 'bout late summer?

Tourons are gone, skeeds are gone, permits would be easier.

Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 8, 2011 - 11:23am PT
The permits for Mono Meadow are pretty easy to get. If for some reason that is filled, like trying to go on Labor Day, then you can also try to get the Glacier Point>Illiouette Permit.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 8, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
idk, this one always seemed like a perfect spring ski approach, depending on the snow & the creek?

problem for me is getting the free time then. this was one of the ones i had thought about doing last spring, until i sprained my frickin ankle.

billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Feb 8, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
Nate D and Adamame are correct (Adam would know, he was with me when we went through that zone). On the previously posted topo (thanks Banquo!), I believe the formation I'm thinking of is near the "7" on the map.

So, is that a location where routes have been previously established?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
with this being a heavier water year, stream crossings will be a pain. Skeets suk (so to speak).

late summer seems pretty ideal in my mind, of course we all have delusions of grandeur of packing in 3 months of trips in later summer.

billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Feb 8, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
ASSUMING this is a heavier water year. It was a wet fall and early winter, but it's gonna take quite a bit more snow in the spring to necessitate a late season trip.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Feb 8, 2011 - 04:24pm PT
Here's a pic from Walleye (hijacked from another Starr King thread) clearly showing dome 6 & 7 on Banquo's map.


Thomas Addison (teamwhipper - speak up if you are present) reported up to about 8 routes on that long wall (dome 7), in the 5.11-12 range. He said he did up to 60 pitches on the domes in the Illouette Creek drainage.

So much rock, so little time...
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 8, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
Always wanted to get there.....

Maybe this year?
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 8, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
There are some really cool photos in this thread.
billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Feb 9, 2011 - 03:06am PT
Sweet Nate! That's what I was thinking would be on that wall. Sport routes? It seems like nicely featured granite--perfect for that sort of thing, like Shuteye.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 9, 2011 - 03:19am PT
Sport routes, are you kidding? Those routes are likely to be quite bold.
Fletcher

Trad climber
from the place of breath
Feb 9, 2011 - 03:59am PT
I seem to recall from years ago a rec.climbing post about climbing Starr King in the spring via a ski in or some other contraption that was hilarious. May have been a DMT classic, might check with him. May have involved some Olympic Post Holing.

Would love to get into Starr King someday, whatever the means.

Eric
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 9, 2011 - 10:16am PT
http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/starr_king_3.html
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Feb 9, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
billygoat,
Thomas will have to speak up, as I've never been to Starr King or vicinity. But yes, the wall was described as being well featured. Very doubtful the routes are sport, as one is R, and it sounded like they were mostly trad lines thru cracks and glorious knobs. Also, he mentioned they were 3-4 pitches.

I don't have topos and don't know if any exist. Adventurous obscurities for sure.

billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Feb 10, 2011 - 03:57am PT
Hey Nate,

No worries. I just talked with him tonight and got an amazing run down of his history out there. Holy crap there's a lot of routes! More than I would've thought... Sounds like a mix of bold, trad, and sport. I think this area definitely needs a rediscovery. Plenty of stuff for the 5.12/5.11 climber. I think it would be great to hit that zone up in good fall conditions--basecamp out there and send like crazy. Not sure what this fall looks like, but this area (no doubt) has a top spot on my priority list for future adventures.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 10, 2011 - 05:04am PT
Tim & I started ... a pleasant walk into the base ... where we camped in the Jeffery Pine forest near the base of the SW face. ~ BooDawg
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1292666&tn=0#msg1293125
I was really impressed with this location when I went out there. The route starts from a sort of nest of pine needles.
this just in

climber
north fork
Feb 10, 2011 - 11:31am PT
These were from October 09 from Gale Peak, East of The King of Starrs.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Mar 20, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
Here's what it looked like on Sat Mar 12, 2011 from the Yosemite Falls trail.

Bruce Berryhill

Trad climber
Tulare California
Mar 20, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
Climbed it last Sept. with a group of PCSs. Thrashed through the brush at the base and climbed the 3rd class direct dihedral with good friends. It was worth it going straight up from the bottom.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 10, 2011 - 01:38am PT
Yes, I want to go. Was planning to do it this weekend, until the T-storm forecasts showed up. My next chance is 9/24-25; probably will go for 3 days.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Sep 10, 2011 - 02:41am PT
Have fun, you guys!
I like Starr King a lot. Amazing locale. Cool climbing.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
May 25, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Sierra bump!
On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
Apr 8, 2015 - 11:37am PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 8, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
Random shots from Jim Shirley's and my trip to the Starr in the eighties in October.

Light snowfall a day or so earlier...nobody around but us mice.A real humdinger of a trip.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 8, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
I only climbed Starr King once, in 1971 in a day from Mono Meadow, but I thoroughly enjoyed it, and the summit register was a gem. Norman Clyde, John Salathe, et al., signed in. And I, too, noticed all the other FA possibilities on or near the trail from Merced Pass. If only I weren't so slothful, but there was even lower hanging fruit near Fresno in those days.

John
Alois

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Apr 8, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
My wife Penelope and I climbed the East Face (5.7) route on Mt.Star King in summer of 2011. We combined the NW Arete of Mt. Clark, a wonderful scramble with the Mt. Star King route on the East (The hidden) Face. It was a really nice trip.
The area is full of domes and granite outcroppings, there are few if any people there. The place is a gem to visit.

Sorry for introducing another web site TR into Supertopo, but this was a really good trip for us. See the photos...

http://www.summitpost.org/mount-starr-king-east-face-ii-5-7/740303
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Apr 8, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
Everyone should check out B. Amborn's documentation of the register... great fun to look through if you love the peak.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Apr 8, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
Alois, really nice report. Looks like you and Pen had a great time. It's so beautiful back there.

We rapped off the to the SE saddle and took our rock shoes off. Dave G then started hiking directly down that slab. I put my shoes back on!

We are all so fortunate.
Alois

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Apr 10, 2015 - 09:17am PT
Hi Gary
How right you are. We are totally lucky to be able to enjoy this wonderful activity at this stage of our lives.

What a place Southern Yosemite is. Just wishing we were 25 years younger...

mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 12, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
Jerome and I did the Mount Starr King route Nuts and Bolts ten days ago. Here's a description of the route:

Mount Starr King - Nuts and Bolts 5.8 R *

This nearly 1,400 foot climb follows a fairly straight line up Mount Starr King’s west side. It is a traditional and very serious route - the hardest climbing is adequately protected but there are mandatory, massive run-outs on easier ground.

Pitch 1 (130 feet, 5.7): Finding the start of this pitch (and of the route) is fairly easy. A large pillar dominates the base of the formation’s west side (there is a large pine at the top of the pillar). Start about 100 feet left of this pillar in a straight-up crack/seam (this crack/seam is also 25 feet left of a more prominent, right-facing, flake/crack). Third class becomes easy fifth class until the crack ends 20 feet below a bolt. The bolt protects 10 feet of 5.7 slab climbing. Forty more feet of easier, but unprotected slab follow (move up and slightly right) ending at a stance with a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (110 feet, 5.8): Move straight up 25 feet to a bolt (5.7). Easier climbing leads up and slightly right, 30 feet, to a prominent, three-foot wide roof (small gear). Move left along the roof until it is possible to move over it (5.8). Easier climbing leads up and right 15 feet to another bolt. Continue another 35 feet (unprotected) to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (110 feet, 5.5): Move straight up, staying just left of a blunt arete. After 30 feet (5.5), move onto the arete. Continue 30 more feet (5.4, then 5.3), to a bolt. Another 50 feet of 5.3 climbing on the blunt arete leads to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (100 feet, 5.3): Continue up the blunt arete before moving left to a ledge and a bolt. Move up and left on easy terrain to another bolt 100 feet from the start. It appears that this single bolt is at the end of the pitch (it is the anchor).

Pitch 5 (100 feet, 5.1): Very easy climbing leads up and right and then right to a noticeable ledge in a water streak. Use a vertical crack at the back of the ledge to make an anchor.

Additional Pitches: From this fifth pitch belay ledge it is 750 feet to class three terrain (on which one can walk to Mount Starr King’s summit). It appears that there is no more fixed protection in this distance (and no more fixed belays). Instead, careful route finding and excellent protection-placing skills are needed to continue along the “line-of-least-resistance.” The first 400 feet of this climbing is on masses of gorgeous patina plates. This climbing is never harder than 5.2, but protection is hard to find; occasional stoppers can be used and slings can be laid over incut knobs. Make belays where the best possible protection allows. Above the patina flakes are another 350 feet of slabs and corner/flakes (with climbing up to 5.5). Several larger pieces of gear are needed in this part of the climb.

Protection (for the first half of the route): Bolts, many runners and gear from small to 1½ inch (as of September 2016, all lead and anchor bolts to the top of the second pitch were 3/8” stainless; above that, all bolts were 1970-vintage quarter inch).

Protection (for the second half of the route): Gear from small to three inches and many runners.

Note: The word “apparently” is used in two passages above for a reason. It is very hard to tell if the first ascent party belayed from one bolt 100 feet up on the fourth pitch. It seems so though; their ropes were probably 150 feet long and there are no significant protection possibilities within 50 feet of that bolt. With regard to the presence or absence of bolts above this pitch, there is more than one “line-of-least-resistance” above this point. The ascent that led to this description went up and slightly left from the top of the fifth pitch and topped out about 150 feet left of the obvious pine near the top of the dome. This looked like the easiest climbing from below, and there were no bolts on this portion of the climb. However, it would also possible to stay to the right of the prominent pine in this last 750 feet; the first ascent party may have done this (and left fixed protection there).

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 12, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
Thanks for the full description, Brad!
Roger and I replaced the bolts on the first 2 pitches,
but it was getting late and I didn't see any bolts above,
and none were mentioned in the route description at the time
(from the Spencer Southern Yosemite guide).
So we bailed and we spent the last day of our trip looking for the NW Face route (did not find it).

splitclimber did post this description of bolts on the upper pitches in 2012:
Oct 22, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
Thx Clint and Roger for your hard work.

had the pleasure to clip the new bolts (and skip the one above the roof, yikes) on the first two pitches of nuts n bolts on starr king this weekend. Looks like you guys stopped there.

The third pitch has a single lead bolt and two bolts at top of p3, then way up on the climb a couple more lead bolts here and there, then anchors on the top of pitch 7?. One super sketchy,, but unnecessary, bolt above p7 anchors.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1492905&tn=60
So the anchors on top of p7 and sketchy bolt may be on the alternative line to the right which you mentioned.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 12, 2016 - 01:08pm PT
Clint,

The replacement bolts looked good (a few years later). Thanks as always for those!!

Splitclimber's description makes me think that we missed our way on the upper part of the route? Maybe Ken will see this and add from his memory? Or splitclimber could comment regarding where they went up higher?

BTW, we did the Northeast Face route too the same day. I was almost giggling while we climbed as I matched the climbing we did with the 1876 first ascent date. What an adventure that must have been!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 12, 2016 - 01:42pm PT
don't remember posting that Clint and I think I was mistaken after re-reading it.

I only recall 2 old lead bolts on pitch 3 and remember a gear anchor on a nice ledge for the top of pitch 3, which was left and just above the large slanted roof.

pic of top of pitch 3 on ledge, left of slanted roof.


Don't know why I said 2 bolts at top of pitch 3. But it is weird that Brad reported pitch 3 anchor bolts. hmmm. Maybe I missed them. I have a feeling that I blew right past them and linked two pitches with a 70m rope. I don't remember stopping after only 110 feet on my pitch 3.

I did post this in the starr king bolt replacement thread and I think is accurate -

"the 3rd pitch up the rib is really good and ends above that roof at a nice small bench with a good crack for a gear anchor. The adventure was high going up and not seeing any bolts and no gear placements.

I think there was only 2 bolts on pitch 3 then a random one a pitch below the tree. The rest is just 5 fun. :)"

For pitch 4 and beyond I remember just finding the best line and looking for features that could take gear. we climbed a little left and went left of the obvious tree in the pic below



I think Clint's overlay had the route going up and right of the tree.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 12, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
Thanks for chiming in splitclimber.

Your first photo is unmistakably the ledge and crack belay that I describe as the end of our fifth (yes 5th) pitch. You call this the end of of your third pitch. You likely ran longer rope-lengths than we did; I was thinking shorter pitches when we were on it, consistent with the length of rope they had back then. Glad to know we both found our way to that same spot.

If you got to that point in three pitches, then I suspect that you clipped and then climbed right by the two bolt anchor that I describe at the end of our third pitch. This was a semi-hanging belay and (if I recall) the quarter inch bolts had one SMC hanger and one Leeper hanger. I warned Jerome at that anchor not to hang off/lean back on these two 46 year old rusties.

I think from looking at your second photo that we were 80 to 100 feet left of you at that same height on the route. And we found no other bolts. The one you found up high means that we may have been farther left than the first ascent party (although we found adequate pro up high by going that way). You stayed truer to the original ascent.

Fun route. And even if we weren't on the exact climb up higher, I'm still marking it off as done in my book ;)

splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 12, 2016 - 02:28pm PT
it is a great climb. glad you got on it.

I could easily be forgetting a third belay on the rib/arête before the ledge. i'll have to see if I have any pics that could jog my memory.






Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 12, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
This is the most recent version of the West Face routes overlay.
I'll try to draw in the bolts and correct the line above p2, based on your descriptions.
Is the "blue" bolt between the red 4 and 5 one that you saw (single belay bolt at 100')?
It might be from the original Illilouette Face route (only one bolt was placed on the climb).
The upper pine tree is in this photo - right of the red nine; there is a purple dot on it.

QITNL has a much nicer photo, so I might try using that for a new overlay.

The NW (not NE) Face route is the one I tried to find but didn't.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 12, 2016 - 03:00pm PT

Is the "blue" bolt between the red 4 and 5 one that you saw (single belay bolt at 100')?

Clint, the height of that one "blue" bolt is correct for the last bolt we found when we did the route (I called that one bolt the top of the fourth pitch). But it seems significantly too far to the left in your overlay (too close to the Illouette Face route).

Your overlay of Nuts and Bolts actually seems just about right, up to the purple dot that is one lower than the one even with that "blue" bolt. Then it should go up and little right to the ledge that both splitclimber and I belayed on.

Mostly though, you're right, the angle of the photo isn't the best for depicting this particular route (but it's a great photo for showing the general location of most of the routes).
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 12, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
Looking it over again, maybe the one "blue" bolt shown on the current overlay it too high and too far left? Maybe move it down to the height of the purple dot one lower (and further right).

It's hard with that photo.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 13, 2016 - 03:10pm PT
Here are my new "overlay guesses", hopefully on somewhat better photos.
Getting closer?

splitclimber, where is "a gear anchor on a nice ledge for the top of pitch 3, which was left and just above the large slanted roof."? Is this just slightly above where I have 3?
Or is it close to 4?
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 13, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
Clint,

Using my route description, both photos are perfect up to the top of pitch two. From there the purple depicts the pitches as too long. For example, the purple shows the top of pitch three too high. Also, the route moves left to a bolt well below the roof on the fourth pitch, and then up and left to the "one bolt" fourth belay.

I printed out your first photo and marked on it where we went (and where the bolts an pledge belay are). I'll either email that to you or post it where as soon as I get a chance.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 13, 2016 - 03:37pm PT
Clint,

I made my marked-on copy of your photo into a PDF. It turned out well.

I can't post it from work (I don't know how to do it from this computer). But I could email it to you. But I no longer have your email address here at work. Could you email me with your address at: bradATyoungwardlothertDOTcom

I'll get you the PDF.

Also, it looks like both photos have the first part of the second pitch a little too far to the right (the climbing is closer to straight up getting to the roof).
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 13, 2016 - 03:56pm PT
I looked at photos today and it looks like we took photos from every belay, so I'm pretty sure we went from the 2nd pitch anchors to the nice ledge with gear anchor for our 3rd pitch. this was with a 70m rope but I can't remember how much rope was left at the end of the pitch.

I have different edits/suggestions than Brad, so we may have climbed through a different area after the rib (even though he said he was at the belay ledge that I was on ??)

From your 2nd pic, my belay ledge is right of "4" and the dotted line/route should be right as well in that obvious groove/rain runnel feature. If the bolt near "4" is in the approximate spot, I would not have seen it the way I went.

we then went up what looks to be the obvious line up and slightly left, still in a groove feature with all of those features and shelves to the right of the route.

I can post a pic or two tonight looking down from our 3rd pitch belay ledge, which may help.

Another thing to discuss - does anyone know why Secor is sooo wrong on the overlay. I think Spencer got it wrong too but would need to look at that guide to be sure. Did Ken Boche clarify where Nuts and Bolts really was/is in the past?

mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Sep 13, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
Here's Clint's photo-topo with my hand drawn comments on it:

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 13, 2016 - 05:23pm PT
Thanks, Brad and splitclimber!
I see you both ended up at the ledge Brad marked 5.
I'll try to get QITNL's original photo and make the corrected overlay on that.

Ken Boche contributed some photos and story from the FA, but I think he did not recall the exact location on the overall photos.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1292666&tn=0#msg1293125

The trick for me was finding the start - it took me 2 days.
Once I saw the first bolt, the climbing (on the first 2 pitches) lined up with Ken's route description and photos.
The start description was off. It was not 200' left of the prow (pillar actually). More like 10. :-)

It's still a puzzle exactly where the NW Face pitches go.
I led up 60m in a couple of spots, but did not see any bolts.
Probably need to climb higher (double bolt belay at end of p3 are the first described bolts).
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 13, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
Thanks, Joe!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
really want to get out there. ugh, not enough time in the week.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 13, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
i don't think i've seen the two last pictures before. like the pic of tim drilling over the roof.

brad and i climbed in basically the same area after the belay ledge, through some flakes and corners with some bushes left of the tree.

i must have clipped the pitch three anchor bolt then kept going because I remember 2 bolts on the rib.

maybe i don't remember there being a second bolt or maybe thinking it was a replacement bolt and the leeper just wasn't pulled.

this is one of my most memorable routes because it was the first time doing a backcountry route like this without much beta.

i didn't bring small enough gear for the roof, (gear advice - bring stuff smaller than a yellow tcu) for the roof, so my gear was sh#t. then when I climbed the roof I kept traversing left until it was easy, too easy, to pull the roof.

I never saw the bolt above the roof. I was off in 5.9 territory way above the clipped bolt below the roof, until i saw the second pitch anchor 15 feet to my right and 5 feet below me. when you have to instruct your belayer to yard in a sh#t ton of rope if you peel, well...;) I then had to sack up for the 3rd pitch which looked hard and slick and i couldn't see a bolt.

The rib is the best feature on the route and maybe 5.7.

spencer's description makes no sense to me. why doesn't he mention climbing over a roof?

anyway, soyo threads shouldn't be bumped. ;)

edit: do it munge. actually a return trip here and to mt. clark may win out over the other obelisk at the end of the month. :)
cleo

Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
Jun 20, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
Bump! We have a permit to camp out and attempt to do some climbing near Mt Starr King on July 4th weekend, from Mono Meadows.

Looks like the crux will be getting there via an extra-long approach across the Illiouette Bridge. Does anyone know - Is it faster to cross-country from the bridge or follow trails around?

Also... skeeters! Any ideas of good skeeter-free camping? Just keep heading uphill?
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jun 20, 2017 - 12:28pm PT
Go from mono meadows,glacier point road...2 hour approach.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Jun 20, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
Aldude is right,
Mono Meadow trailhead off Glacier Point Road is best approach, but the stream crossing of Illilouette Creek may be the crux. The log in this thread above would seem an option (downstream from trail/river meeting).

To avoid this potential river crossing problem, you could go from Glacier Pt., follow the trail across the bridge above the falls and then either bushwhack up river left (looking up river) or follow the longer trails around...I think Bushwhacking will work, but of course not ideal. Some map studying would inform this plan nicely.

The area is worth the challenge of getting there. Have fun!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Jun 20, 2017 - 01:10pm PT
It's on my list as well.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Jun 20, 2017 - 05:57pm PT
We climbed it back in June 2013. It's beautiful. We hiked in from Mono Meadows trailhead (Kevin W might argue for Glacier Point). We intended to do the "Illouette" face shown in red on Clint's overlay but got lost after pitch 2. We went way right up through cracks and ledges to the big ledge shown as pitch 4. We thought we'd find the route again but didn't so we took off traversing about 40' up and right of the big ledge where we found the bolt marked in blue. At this point, we were in outer space as all the photos we saw of the route showed it going up red plates of granite far to the west. At this point, a big thunder storm was rolling up the canyon from the south and we had to go for the top as we didn't have a bolt kit (used to weight the food rope in a tree back at camp) so no way to retreat. So we took off up the gray water streaks between routes (Illouette and Nuts and Bolts) and placed gear when we could but mostly simul soloed the last 5 pitches to the top. There's still a black metoliuos cam on the line if someone wants it. The rock is gorgeous! But beware the dreaded whitethorn guarding the base. The reason we started the route where we did was because one of the clearer paths through the thorns put us there. I traversed over to the top of the first pitch.

When we got to the top the thunder storm arrived to greet us but the brunt of the storm was East of us throwing bolts of lightning as it passed. We Got Lucky! So, in essence, we put up a new line and called it "Colleen's Birthday" to honor her day. I think we signed the register and got off. The hike in was very hot (mid 90's) so it might be smoking in July and of course be wary of thunderstorms. There's a spring near Dome Baez (about half way up the dome?) that should be running this year......Clint might have a better memory of where (I'm sure his memory's better than mine). Speaking of Dome Baez, we originally went to climb and re-bolt one of Kevin Worral's routes but couldn't get to the base due to thorns. Maybe others can and could get on the route as it looks excellent. Also, I think the "Illouette" face is also called the "Tom Rodgers" face? and that's what's referred to on the topo. Clint? I talked to one of the FA parties about that. He said he couldn't remember the ride due to too much smoke...




wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Jun 20, 2017 - 07:29pm PT
Reading back through the thread.....The "Blue Bolt" is probably not the same bolt we passed traversing up and to the right from the big ledge noted as pitch 4 on the "Illouette" face on Clint's overlay. It's the "old bolt" on our topo and is closer to the big headwall on the Illouette face. It was about 40' out from the headwall ledge. Did "Nuts and Bolts" come that close to "Illouette"? I think they're different bolts and not noted. I also remember seeing a ring piton about 20' over from us and about 20' below the big ledge. Also, the overlay picture I show of the "route" we did was from another thread that I can't find. Maybe it was included in a deleted thread? The picture above with the line overlay is from that thread which included the same topo and I posted the overlay and topo back in '14 but can't find it here on the taco's search. We didn't care whether what we did was considered a route or not (Clint doesn't include it in his most recent overlay)even though it's separated by at least a couple of hundred feet between both older routes and doesn't have bolts after the big ledge just like the other routes and even though it goes up a clear line of water streaks of gray friction between the red plates of the other routes, naturally delineating it from the other routes. It is far right of the tree at the top and comes back to it on a crack system. At any rate, I told Eric Gable about our adventure and he decided that it's a route and it will be in the new guide. I did post that I was going to go back and retro it on the Starr King rebolting thread mainly because I want to get my cam back. And since Splitclimber and mtyoung didn't mention seeing the cam on the way up, I'll assume it is was far enough away for it to be at least, a different line. But I don't want to be the one who decides the criteria of what a route is. We didn't leave much of a trail........
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Jun 25, 2017 - 10:40am PT
Clint
So going back over the intel from splitclimber and mtyoung I don't want to call what we did a route. If your overlay of the "Illouete" face is accurate (and I think it's close because the old bolt you mention as being the lone bolt done on the FA and the crack at pitch 5 is an obvious belay) we made it to pitch 5 and took off just like splitclimber and mtyoung did for the top. Ruppel on a thread I can't find mentioned that after about five pitches up on the whole of Starr King is easy fifth. One can wander anywhere and it's easy climbing. So it's fairly hard, even with FA input to know exactly where the routes go without any gear left behind to denote a line. I'm fairly sure of where the bolt is marked on what I overlayed on the below pics. The space between the bolt on the 4th of "nuts and bolts" and the old bolt on "illouette" if anywhere near accurate would be 60' to 70' apart. So I think the old bolt we passed is the lone bolt you mention as being the only one placed on "illouette" by the FA party.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jun 25, 2017 - 12:27pm PT
Topo from another thread that I can't find......"

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1850876&msg=1853974#msg1853974
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Sep 11, 2018 - 07:57am PT
Was out at the King last weekend. mtnyoung nailed bolt placement on “nuts and bolts”. Climbed about 40’ to the right. Saw the whole shootin’ match. The recent fire in the Mono Meadows area is bad. Whitethorn taking over fast. Sad. But the King is beautiful. We climbed directly up the middle of the gray granite south face and my partner said it’s the most pristine granite he’s seen anywhere. There’s a route someone put up at the far end where slabs from the King meet the dome to the south. There are prominent black streaks that we went to explore and saw what look like 3/8” er’s heading up. Looks nice.

P.S. Went to check on the Warbler’s route on Dome Baez. Still intrigued but the intrigue fades as the whitethorn grows.....and grows. It would take hours with a machete. What a shame, Summers are getting harder and harder on Yosemite.

Edit. Jeez, disregard previous edit. Long winded blather. The only little bone of diff to mtnyoung's wonderful direction is the ledge he describes as possible P4 start with one bolt is down and 20' to the left of end of big headwall, not up and left. And to report that we put up a climb which starts 40' to the right from the start of N&B.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Sep 12, 2018 - 06:14pm PT
Yes Walter, You've seen it past and present. Here is a beautiful shot from QITNL without demarcation....
and one denoting new lines south of Nuts and Bolts....
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Sep 13, 2018 - 05:57am PT
& then, wstmrnclmr, YOUR GREAT picture,










&
that right there is the magic of this Yappity yap-Taco stand,
where I am just part of the free condiments.
Klaus !
Thank You for still gettin' after it and this share.
klaus

Ice climber
6th and Mission
Sep 13, 2018 - 07:14am PT
Did the FA of this route in July this year.
The Raven
It is spectacular
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 13, 2018 - 10:09am PT
the calling is strong to return, esp. with these new routes.

that section of rock does looks really really good.

Klaus - love your summit register entries on Merced Peak, btw. :)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 13, 2018 - 03:05pm PT
Tony and Joe,
Thanks for the photos of the new routes.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Sep 15, 2018 - 10:57pm PT
More beautiful shots from QITNL........
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Sep 15, 2018 - 11:13pm PT
^^ Looks like a couple of nice crack lines running thru that small roof (mid frame).
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 16, 2018 - 05:03pm PT
On September 11, 2018, wstmrnclmr made this post about Mount Starr King:

"Was out at the King last weekend. mtnyoung nailed bolt placement on “nuts and bolts”. Climbed about 40’ to the right. Saw the whole shootin’ match. The recent fire in the Mono Meadows area is bad. Whitethorn taking over fast. Sad. But the King is beautiful. We climbed directly up the middle of the gray granite south face and my partner said it’s the most pristine granite he’s seen anywhere. There’s a route someone put up at the far end where slabs from the King meet the dome to the south. There are prominent black streaks that we went to explore and saw what look like 3/8” er’s heading up. Looks nice."

I'll repeat below the part of his comment that almost caused me to crap my pants:

"There’s a route someone put up at the far end where slabs from the King meet the dome to the south. There are prominent black streaks that we went to explore and saw what look like 3/8” er’s heading up. Looks nice."

The "someone" he was referring to was my partner Jim, and me. And the "route" he was describing wasn't yet a route. Jim and I had gotten well up our climb by the time we finished our October, 2017 efforts. But we hadn't yet finished it to the top. Yikes! Our in-progress route had been discovered!! Could we finish it before someone else did?!?

As part of his post, wstmrnclmr put up photos. Unfortunately these are now blank (any way to revive them?). One of his shots showed three new routes on Starr King's southwest toe. Of these "new routes," the rightmost marked on the photo was our in-progress climb. To my relief, the mark on the photo only went partway up.

Jim and I finally got back toward the end of October, 2018. We finished the route to the top on October 23. Eight pitches, 5.8. We named it Starr Struck. We'd actually struggled to come up with a name - I was envious of the name of the nearby, recent route The Raven, which seemed so perfect. But once Jim suggested Starr Struck, it stuck. I like it.

I echo comments by wstmrnclmr and klaus about the rock quality on this part of the dome. Wow!

Anyway, Jim put up some photos of Starr Struck on another climbing forum that a lot of our friends are on. His thread led to other friends from that site doing Starr Struck's second ascent ten days after it's first (I couldn't believe that someone could get away with a Starr King ascent in November, but they did it). Multiple sets of photos and my route description are on that thread. What might be even more critical are the comments by the second ascent party about the route's quality (I'm not going to go out on a limb/pat myself on the back here with my own thoughts on that subject).

For anyone that is interested, here's the link to that thread about Starr Struck:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=2725.0
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 16, 2018 - 05:45pm PT
wstmrnclmr put up photos. Unfortunately these are now blank (any way to revive them?).
I saved copies:
It's great to see folks having fun out there.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Dec 16, 2018 - 05:51pm PT
You saved copies?! Is there anything you don't do in keeping track of things for this community ;)

Yes, in those photos, the yellow line in the first one comes closest to Starr Struck, although it moves left at the end where we went up.

The second photo's far right, red line is in the right-most streak (still unclimbed when I was last there). Our route is in the left streak.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 29, 2019 - 10:46pm PT
Nice mtnyoung. We wondered about the route. We soloed to the top from where the lines end. A lot of different options. Maybe you could draw in your line on the photos? That way folks could join up for protection to the top if they wanted? I took down all photos for the same reason you didn’t want to pat yourself on the back. I did post an old school topo on MP. That way people can find them but still maybe have a sense of seeing them for the first time? Here’s the topo:. We would never “finish” (steal) a route. We also thought your route, protection wise, ended where we saw anchors. Don’t know what pitch but we wanted to stay clear. Also, saw an overview of approach and almost don’t want to give advice so others can live the same adventure but we had such a bad time going that way ( thus the name “ Feed The Slog”) that I offer this: Take the main trail down to within about a hundred yards south of “Dome Baez”. This is about 200’ north of a tree that fell across the trail and was cut out for passage.

Edit: White thorn is a horrible non-native barrier. Shouldn’t have to be a major part of the adventure. Here’s what we found to be path of least resistance. Exponentially worse every year.
Messages 1 - 107 of total 107 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta