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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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How 'bout late summer?
Tourons are gone, skeeds are gone, permits would be easier.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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The permits for Mono Meadow are pretty easy to get. If for some reason that is filled, like trying to go on Labor Day, then you can also try to get the Glacier Point>Illiouette Permit.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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idk, this one always seemed like a perfect spring ski approach, depending on the snow & the creek?
problem for me is getting the free time then. this was one of the ones i had thought about doing last spring, until i sprained my frickin ankle.
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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Nate D and Adamame are correct (Adam would know, he was with me when we went through that zone). On the previously posted topo (thanks Banquo!), I believe the formation I'm thinking of is near the "7" on the map.
So, is that a location where routes have been previously established?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
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with this being a heavier water year, stream crossings will be a pain. Skeets suk (so to speak).
late summer seems pretty ideal in my mind, of course we all have delusions of grandeur of packing in 3 months of trips in later summer.
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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ASSUMING this is a heavier water year. It was a wet fall and early winter, but it's gonna take quite a bit more snow in the spring to necessitate a late season trip.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Here's a pic from Walleye (hijacked from another Starr King thread) clearly showing dome 6 & 7 on Banquo's map.
Thomas Addison (teamwhipper - speak up if you are present) reported up to about 8 routes on that long wall (dome 7), in the 5.11-12 range. He said he did up to 60 pitches on the domes in the Illouette Creek drainage.
So much rock, so little time...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Always wanted to get there.....
Maybe this year?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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There are some really cool photos in this thread.
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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Sweet Nate! That's what I was thinking would be on that wall. Sport routes? It seems like nicely featured granite--perfect for that sort of thing, like Shuteye.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Sport routes, are you kidding? Those routes are likely to be quite bold.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
from the place of breath
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I seem to recall from years ago a rec.climbing post about climbing Starr King in the spring via a ski in or some other contraption that was hilarious. May have been a DMT classic, might check with him. May have involved some Olympic Post Holing.
Would love to get into Starr King someday, whatever the means.
Eric
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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billygoat,
Thomas will have to speak up, as I've never been to Starr King or vicinity. But yes, the wall was described as being well featured. Very doubtful the routes are sport, as one is R, and it sounded like they were mostly trad lines thru cracks and glorious knobs. Also, he mentioned they were 3-4 pitches.
I don't have topos and don't know if any exist. Adventurous obscurities for sure.
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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Feb 10, 2011 - 03:57am PT
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Hey Nate,
No worries. I just talked with him tonight and got an amazing run down of his history out there. Holy crap there's a lot of routes! More than I would've thought... Sounds like a mix of bold, trad, and sport. I think this area definitely needs a rediscovery. Plenty of stuff for the 5.12/5.11 climber. I think it would be great to hit that zone up in good fall conditions--basecamp out there and send like crazy. Not sure what this fall looks like, but this area (no doubt) has a top spot on my priority list for future adventures.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 10, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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These were from October 09 from Gale Peak, East of The King of Starrs.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Mar 20, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Here's what it looked like on Sat Mar 12, 2011 from the Yosemite Falls trail.
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Bruce Berryhill
Trad climber
Tulare California
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Mar 20, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Climbed it last Sept. with a group of PCSs. Thrashed through the brush at the base and climbed the 3rd class direct dihedral with good friends. It was worth it going straight up from the bottom.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 10, 2011 - 01:38am PT
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Yes, I want to go. Was planning to do it this weekend, until the T-storm forecasts showed up. My next chance is 9/24-25; probably will go for 3 days.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!