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perswig
climber
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Dec 30, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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Otter Cliff, Acadia NP
An excellent 5.8 called Razor Crack used to live here until '08.
(pic stolen from mountainproject)
Dale
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kwit
climber
california
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Dec 30, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
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golden door .11a at the stealth wall, donner summit fell down. at least, it appears that way.
if not, the beta in the falcon guide needs to be changed: the first bolt is on the deck behind the climber and the rest is extra super runout. and possibly .11a+++
this could be a kind of old school i've never seen before...
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Dec 31, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
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justthemaid - I was in on the first ascent of Balance Rock in northern Malibu. The balancing nature of the rock wasn't as insecure as the funky bolts we put in. It was fun sitting on top wondering if some Chumash tribesman sat on the rock a couple of hundred years before us. Not the best rock to solo, but I'm sure back then they were pretty stout.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Dec 31, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
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Seneca Rocks' Gendarme:
Odin saw the pillar and couldn't resist flicking it...that's my theory, anyway.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Here's a recent one, Castles in the Sand, Church Area, Sedona AZ.
Before (from my guidebook pictures):
After (about a week ago):
The roof move is now much closer to the white rock band.
"Dude? Part of your route fell down!"
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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WOW Mr E! I loved that route...anyone been up there since the fall?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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Not yet, according to Manny as of today.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Never climbed there but the fall of the Gendarm at Seneca Rocks comes to mind.
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Man, that is a GREAT WHITE!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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That Dude needs a Proper name. Like "The Runnin' Dude" or some such.
What do YOU see in that patch o' white?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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Just a note to say that Michael Broad posted on FB that he did the climb a week ago, he was wondering about:
1. Smashed hangers barely clippable
2. Loose choss up to the roof
2. easier than the .11+ from our guide.
There you have it - the new first ascent.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 21, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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Yeah, a sixty foot section of the ridge at the top out of one of my routes out at Beacon came down a couple of years ago.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 21, 2013 - 02:00am PT
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There are bolts in the talus blocks below Mayhem... I don't know the story, but it kinda freaks me out every time I climb there.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
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Bump for The Cobra.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2015 - 06:51pm PT
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Bump for Royal, Mike and Jerry.
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