"Dude? Your Route Fell Down!" - Post Up!

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MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
Just talked to the doctor last night, and a 50-foot pillar of rock at The Tomahawk in Sedona parted ways with the main formation. It is now a separate small tower - it moved like 6 feet! Rendering one of our mixed lines "Don't Axe Me" (on the Tomahawk, heehee) and one of John Burcham's great routes "Little Big Man" completely gone.

Another one that comes to mind is "The Killer Cracks" at Joshua Tree. The block fell out, leaving a ridiculously hard-looking bouldering problem.

Other stories?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/203132/Last-and-First-Ascents
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
"Block" is somewhat of an understatment. Paging Tony Sartin!! ;)


E- post up that other pic from the (pending)Sedona Guide... can't remember the name of it.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
Gotta remember this thread when ACDD falls in the Grotto. Someone aught to take Ed's advice and trundle the fvcker...

Charles
nick farley

climber
bishop
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
Ever climb at Cannon Cliff NH? Lots of routes there have come and gone.

Whale's Tale?

Weissner route?

Help out here East Coast.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
There are some bolts in blocks in the talus below Mayhem...

... damn this stupidtopo photo upload gadget... if I don't find the photo in 20 seconds the music stops and firefox poops... only happens with the taco photo application...
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
I'm sure Werner can tell us some tales.
nature

climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Little Big Man was a project of mine.


m'eh!


double m'eh!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
At some point Mickey's Beach in Northern Califonia had a crack that eventually fell into the ocean.

I'll try to find the link to a video of the crack...

But its no longer avaialble for climbinglyness...


Got some hard thing in it's place... Looks to have stabilized rather well since then.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PywRnBl7IE


That's the one...

No longer available.. Specially for the die-hard spanex wearers... Mighty Hiker comes to mind!!!!


LOL
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
The whole Appalachian Mountain Range fell down, there must have been some awesome routes there a few million years ago.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
Nice link Anders. Posted before my time here on ST so I'd never seen it.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Not climbing... but "Bird Rock" down in La Jolla fell down with that last cycle of big storms...

Arches made of sand crumble to the sea...

Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
Any routes over there?
Credit: Adamame
Credit: Adamame
Credit: Adamame
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Depends - could you place a Blue Donini on it?
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 31, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
There used to be two cracks here, to the right of Gunsmoke in Josh, called the Killer Cracks. The left one was good, a fun solo at 5.9. Shortly after the face between them sprouted bolts the entire block toppled forward, face down on the new route, leaving a big alcove. Divine intervention?

Formerly the Killer Cracks...
Formerly the Killer Cracks...
Credit: Ksolem

Face down in the dirt!

Anybody under there??
Anybody under there??
Credit: Ksolem

Now there is a hard highball there:

Credit: Ksolem
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jan 31, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
Swimming hole: 300+ routes gone in a week

Before:


After:


The above images show the texas flake boulder. Totally gone, there is no trace of it downstream either. Now that's a f*#king powerful storm.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
Here's the pic of David on the FA of "Don't Axe Me":

photo not found
Missing photo ID#189122

Everything right of the crack is gone. It looks thin here, but thickens around the corner.
hb81

climber
Jan 31, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
The above images show the texas flake boulder. Totally gone, there is no trace of it downstream either. Now that's a f*#king powerful storm.

Wow, thats quite impressive indeed. The proverbial force of nature in action.
Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber
LOVE, TRUST, PIXIE DUST
Jan 31, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
HEY THERE SAY... IS YOUR DOCTOR YOUR CLIMBING PARTER???? THATS VERY COOL YOU MUST GET VERU SAFE.,,, I WHSH MY DOCTOR WOULD CLIMB WITH EM,,, BUT I DONT HAVE HEALTHINSUERNCE NO MORE... OH WELL.,, IF YOUR DOCTOR IS LOOKING FOR A NEW PARTNER LET ME KNOW I CAN ROPE UP. AND BIG WALL.


THANKS
XOIXOX

CHINGO
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
Just saw the other responses - very cool stuff!

Here's the topo of the Tomahawk I drew from the other side: it's the pillar on the left that went.



Here's another one, the third pitch fell off of "Miami", a 5.12 on Schnebly Hill Road in Sedona, leaving the bottom two pitches in unknown condition regarding hanger damage. The encircled area used to be the third pitch:


Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 31, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
Gendarme at Seneca.

In Little Cottonwood Canyon, a huge hunk of cliff spalled off on the left side of the Gate Buttress a few years back. Gone are classics like Old Reliable, Knuckle Buster, Catalyst...

Cliff above the first pitch of the Great White Icicle spalled off a couple years ago. Blew the first pitch belay boulder up and changed the watercourse a bit.

In both cases, new routes went up in the new rock rather quickly...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jan 31, 2011 - 03:17pm PT


Basket Dispatcher in the Gallatin Canyon fell down a couple seasons back...Kind of an obscure route...glad I climbed it when it was around...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 31, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
Near Blanding Utah There was that route,.11 fingers, That Manny, Mike F and I did, that Jello broke. It was like the heel on a loaf of rock. It can be seen being climbed in the climbing Video, "Three weeks and a Day."


 I don't think Jello really broke it, but he was the last one with it. He pounded an angle for a rappel that looked like a potential prybar to me. No rock lasts forever.....


There's a description and tale of it's demise in one of the Desert Rock books.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 31, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
Yikes! I'm starting to think this rock climbing thing could be dangerous, what with all the cliffs collapsing everywhere.

Weren't EE, Mo and Mari up on Tissasack when huge pieces of the face started coming off below them? I kind of remember EE saying they thought it might take them off but it stopped short of their position.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Jan 31, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
In Little Cottonwood Canyon, a huge hunk of cliff spalled off on the left side of the Gate Buttress a few years back. Gone are classics like Old Reliable, Knuckle Buster, Catalyst...

Oh yeah, that was awesome! I was climbing around Gordon's Hangover what must have been <3 days before. I came back 3 days later and thought... hey, something is different... would have loved to have watched that from the top of Gordon's.

Remember this from Yosemite a couple years ago...
Credit: weschrist

Credit: weschrist
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 31, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
What was Werners route that fell off in the valley? Up Tenaya a bit I think.




Donini said:
The whole Appalachian Mountain Range fell down, there must have been some awesome routes there a few million years ago.

You probably had most of the cliffs to yourself back when things were different then Jim.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 31, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
That was back when p'terodactyls were nesting on El Cap.

Werner's Crack is the one by Mirror Lake that collapsed.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Jan 31, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
4x4 wall in Indian Creek two years ago.
A couple of unnamed cracks were lost.





Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 31, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
If the "owl" hadn't fallen from Owl Rock in Arches just before the USGS made the maps then the name would have been put on them.

Due to the capricious regulations in the '70s that prohibited climbing on any named feature (seriously, that was the rule) I would have had to have pulled a Potter to do the FA of what became the most frequented route in the park!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jan 31, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
Still waiting for the Endless Bummer formation south of Mickey's Beach to roll down the hill.....
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 31, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
hadn't heard that about LCC, I did all those routes Wes mentioned when I lived there, Whoo hoo!


Someday soon Slot Machine, in Indian Creek, will be on this list.
cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Jan 31, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
The Mayor

Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
Jan 31, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
Credit: The Mayor

One less route but some killer indoor bouldering! Billings Rimrocks.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
"Pageing Mr Pillar. Will Mr Bonatti Pillar come to the front desk?"

There was a thread about that with some amazing pictures.


(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.

By Sam Cage

GRINDELWALD, Switzerland | Mon May 21, 2007


(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.

The ice that glues Alpine peaks together is slowly melting, loosening rocks and making classic European climbs like the Eiger and Matterhorn even riskier than in the past.

"Now there are routes that just can't be done any more," said Grindelwald mountain guide Marco Bomio.

He pointed out a slope on the Eiger's northeast face, first climbed in 1932, which is now often too dangerous to ascend as there is too little ice and snow on the route.

After a major rockfall -- which geographers say are ever more common in the Alps -- guides are often called in to secure the mountainside by clearing loose rocks and binding others in nets.

"These days we make more money from rockfalls than we do as mountain guides," Bomio said.


rest of article:
http://www.reuters.com/article/2007/05/21/environment-swiss-rockfalls-dc-idUSL1451393120070521
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 31, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
Bonatti had a 100m high pillar fall over his head on the Grandes Jorasse.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Jan 31, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
Stoney Point: There was this funky little top-rope we used to do in the 1980s. It fell down in the Northridge quake leaving a new funky little top-rope problem. I snagged the FA a few weeks later. One of the few documented FA's a Stoney. (who cares?)

Some day that some boulder is going to come down to be with Boulder One. It rolled around nicely in the Northridge quake. A couple little more shaking ought to bring it down. Now that would be an interesting trundle!
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Jan 31, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
weschrist.....where is that? I can't figure it out for the life of me!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
cinque torri in the dolomites actually has more than five towers. this one fell down shortly before we visited there in 2004 and had already sprouted bolts on the "new" face.

the fallen tower
the fallen tower
Credit: Tony Bird

the tower was a minor formation, but it nevertheless had several routes on it. you can never tell when something's gonna up and keel over. here's the main group, hopefully more stable:

cinque torri
cinque torri
Credit: Tony Bird

notice the covered-over trail in that first photo. isn't there something like that on the walk into the cookie cliff?

Randall_C

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 31, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
Do you all remember when the Totem Pole fell down?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=472262&tn=0

...and the horrible after action photo:



...and the culprit:

Credit: OUCH!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Jan 31, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
Mister E - Didn't you and Doc put that up just recently?

Thought I saw a TR about that... Could be mistaken
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
cool rockfall link. It's sort of related to the topic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afI58PRmTJ0

My two year old likes all big machines, trucks, trains, planes, and helicopters. You tube is a treasure trove for a dad.
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
Jan 31, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
Herm's Tower, aka "Positive Vibrations", a free standing 90 foot basalt hexagon at Vantage. Bastards.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
Some of you must remember the Trigger Finger at Peshastin Pinnacles just east of Leavenworth. Gone now.

And then there's the other kind of lost route. The kind where the rock hasn't changed, but access fell off. Got a whole amazing cliff full of those...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
Loose Lips, Joshua Tree.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
Loose Lips. Right!

I think I saw Coz solo that thing on a cold winter day (he was wearing a full on down jacket) about a year before it collapsed.
Brian

climber
California
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
Saw Croft solo Loose Lips the day before (I think) it fell. I wasn't there the day it came down so I can't say for sure. We used to joke that Peter was so strong he destabilized the thing.

I'm not much of a boulderer, but I miss the Swimming Hole. That place was magic. Hard to believe it just... disappeared.

Killer Cracks were good too, though I remember calling them the Kung Fu Cracks (I'm sure Ksolem is right since he knows that place backwards and forwards).


tonesfrommars

Trad climber
California
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
Great thread.

Y'all know what did in Mickey's Beach right?

a FLAG MANOEUVRE!!
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 31, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
I heard that a 1997 rockfall ... the left side of Werner's Crack fell off! ~ Clint
I followed on this thing around '76 or so, wearing some shoenards.
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Jan 31, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
Matty,
I remember the swimming hole. Use to party there when I was a kid. Hope all of you guys are still pulling in those parts. :) Loved those routes despite them being way out of my league.
:)AFS
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Jan 31, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
Rad thread...
that totem pole pic got me laughing pretty hard.
And that huge boulder in that guys house!

I've noticed that the majority (not all) are sandstone.

Shoot man, with crap that big, screw the helmet... just get it over with.

After reading and viewing this thread, it's a wonder any of us are still alive after climbing!

MORE PICTURES! This page is getting boring with no pics...
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Jan 31, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
@AFS - Yep the crew still cranks and knowing that it can all be taken away makes us appreciate it so much more. Saturdays with the gang = unforgettable memories.

Let's see:



This one used to be upside down a bit upstream.


GOODBYE =(


GONE!!!
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Jan 31, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
Nice! That makes me happy! I do hope that the next big storm is properly 100 years away. :)AFS
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jan 31, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
Trigger Finger was fun. Too bad it's gone now.
The huge flake which used to stick out on Kootenay Flake, at Twin Bays on Kootenay Lake, [get it?] disappeared one winter, along with a wide swath of trees.
A big chunk fell off Sickle at Squamish a long time ago. The route was re-established about two points harder.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 31, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
Climbs on my list that I was, once upon a time, informed I wouldn't get to do:

Werner's Crack
Pretty much everything left of the Folly.
Wild, Wild, West.

I've told the tale here before, but a while ago...maybe 2002?...Minerals proposed to lead a geology tour in the Valley. I learned a lot that day. He took us over to Lower Cathedral to see 'his favorite boulder', but couldn't find it. Looking left...looking right...sure it's here. I was heaving and weezing from the hike so I took a seat on a not favorite boulder and noticed that there was a bolt with hanger just next to my tush...And thus solved the mystery of where went the missing favorite bouldering.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 1, 2011 - 12:01am PT
Buju-

Wes posted pix of the Ahwiyah Point rockfall in spring of 09.

Pretty cool to watch from the Column.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 1, 2011 - 06:37am PT
I recall that article from Climbing Magazine about Black Canyon from a few years back. I don't still have it, but there was a picture of the FAists camped out on an enormous ledge mid way up. The entire ledge and 1/2 a pitch of route was just gone when when they went looking for it. Pretty freaky. That article did an excellent job of encouraging me to stay the hell away from that place.


"WELCOME TO BLACK CANYON- The Rock is Great."


"Just clip it! It's good! We swear!"



Credit: justthemaid


Captain...or Skully

climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Feb 1, 2011 - 09:03am PT
YOWZA!!!
Great pic, JTM.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 1, 2011 - 09:39am PT
(Fortunately) Not my pic. Some other poor Colorado climber had the misfortune of that little surprise. I found it while I was Googling-around around looking for pictures of Black Canyon's route/ledge that fell down. That's not the only photo of a bolt sticking out of something no longer attached to the wall BTW.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2011 - 11:42am PT
Speaking of routes falling down, what's the condition of The Good Book?

Never mind, I found it:

http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-The-Folly-Good-Book

Nature: Yep, me too - I followed it once, really good thin hands 5.11. I see your Meh, and raise you a Doh!-Meh!

;P
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Feb 1, 2011 - 11:46am PT
we were on or way up to eagle ake butress once, and at the bridge crossing going up the creek, there was a one pitch 5.9 crack corner and roof at the bridge. On the way back down in the evening, the whole roof portion (size of a Van) was laying in the creek....hhhhhmmmmm It had been a documented route for years. didnt see any thing (or person) under said block though...
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Feb 1, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
the boulder in jt that was left after the killer cracks fell sharma bagged it and its called "iron will" V11/12 or something like that - my bro charlie repeated it.

i dont have a pic but i did a great fa of a tricky V5 traverse into a fun V4 up problem in gualala park in nor cal and i went back after a few months to show a friend and i came around the corner of the other boulders there to show him my new one and it was totally gone - vanished into the ocean and the sand.

it was a few months since i had been there and during that time a huge winter storm must have made the nearby gualala river mouth so wide and strong that it just pushed my boulder out into the sand and eventually the ocean - frkn crazy because the boulder was as big as a house!!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 1, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
A large chunk of this fell off some years ago, you can see the edge sticking out of the water, not the best rock to begin with so what do you expect?
The big chunk under the roof fell off, you can see it in the water.
The big chunk under the roof fell off, you can see it in the water.
Credit: matty


This one was great. I had seen this boulder perched up on a hill for years and then one day decided to see if it would move. All it took was a little digging and some prying with sticks from behind and down she rolled. estimated over 100,000lbs of boulder. It now has 5 or 6 lines on it and there is still a deep trough in the ground where it rolled.
Best trundle ever...
Best trundle ever...
Credit: matty
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Feb 1, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
Wasn't there a minor quake in Sedona in the last week? Cause/effect?
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Feb 1, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
nice trundle fa's!

that reminds me of another mickeys beach story - the orange buddha boulder was on the hillside about 75ft above the nude "red rock" beach and in the late 80's or early 90's it slid down onto the nude beach where it is rumored to have sat for a few weeks before it split in two! there are about 25 killer problems on it now from V0-V11! one of the locals wrote "danger" under it steep side on the beach to warn you that it might break in pieces again so don't sit under it. funny, i wont sit under it but i will climb on it. hmmm?
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Feb 1, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
Larry - Yes, I heard there was a minor earthquake in Sedona last week.

JusttheMaid - You might be referring to Kor's Cave(?) on the Dragon route in the Black Canyon. Apparently a decent sized ledge peeled off at some point after the first ascent.
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Feb 1, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
I was a young gun with a freshly purchased hilti. I was replacing old 1/4" bolts up and down the northern cali coast.

One beach has a tower, maybe 40 feet high and so-so rock. It had a few sport routes on it. The only route I wanted to do repetedly was a TR, unclimbable unles accessed by climbing other routesto the tower summit.

The Tr was called "The missing Red Bannana Slug". I asked aroud for oppinions on bolting it. Sounded like the FAist and th geeral scene were into it.

IT starts by lybacking a flake the size of two grand pianos, then crinps to a shale top out. The flake sounded moe solid than the surrouundng rock, and would not take gear due to it's flaring chosy nature. So I bolted the climb, 4 bolts one on the flake.

Two weks later (?) there was a nearthquake. I went to the beach and the whhole ist half of the clinb was on the ground With one bolt sticking up.

It left a big mess under tthe now gone flake. Tried to clinb it again, sucked. Renamed it "A salted Slug".

Sorry for the rambling, I am on a shitload of ditltil another sh#t in the hospital.

Bye.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Feb 1, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
Some day that some boulder is going to come down to be with Boulder One. It rolled around nicely in the Northridge quake. A couple little more shaking ought to bring it down. Now that would be an interesting trundle!

i figured it was worth a couple fotos for this thread, since i was headed up there today.

here's a look at degrees-of-separation on the NE side--spider, does this reflect some jumping around during the '94 quake? or might it have been from the 1857 quake?

degrees of separation
degrees of separation
Credit: Tony Bird

view up close on the SE side--center of gravity seems to be leaning nicely to the back:
SE side
SE side
Credit: Tony Bird

however the view from the NW is not quite as comforting:
NW side
NW side
Credit: Tony Bird

will it fall next week--or two ice ages from now?


The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Feb 2, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
yes Jingy, the crazy thing is the route was first put up in 2009 and fell down, probably in late 2010, and yes there was a 3.5 e-quake in Sedona a couple of weeks ago, don't know where the epicenter was. Unfortunately there were 5 of us there that day and no camera. I'll be back there soon and i'll get some pics.
nature

climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
Feb 2, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
My Project!



Maybe Stick It will fall over soon (or just turn into a massive OW).


that's one way to "tick" my projects.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 2, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
I remember the old Patagonia add with Charlie Fowler climbing
the Fang, near Vail, CO, with the caption "it fell down the
next day"
(a notorious, tiny ice sickle). . .
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Feb 2, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
Tony - that was strictly from Northridge. Plus it has erroded in the last 15 years It was juicy right after the quake. I've thought about placing wedge stones to make sure when it wobbles they drop into place and it comes down for sure. But...too much trouble.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 2, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
Party on the third ptich of Durrance
Party on the third ptich of Durrance
Credit: mike m
The iconic leaning column on the Durrance route on Devil's Tower moves substantially when you stand on it. If it falls off sumiting by the easiest route will change significantly.
nature

climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
Feb 2, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
The missing red banana is/was my route.

Didn't know your story tho, Paul.

Salted slug sounds appropriate.

And didn't that have 5/16" buttonheads? ;-)
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 2, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
I expect a good hard quake could easily topple Balancing Rock at Echo Cliffs. That thing looks so precariously balanced a harsh word could make it jump. Never seen anyone climb the routes on it.

Credit: justthemaid


Credit: justthemaid








ThomasKeefer

Trad climber
San Diego
Feb 2, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aiguille_du_Dru
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Feb 2, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
I climbed both the right, and left Killer Cracks shortly before that block fell.
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Feb 2, 2011 - 05:05pm PT
Is this thing still there?
Credit: klaus
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 2, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
hey there say, mr. E ... very interesting stuff here...

thanks for the share...
:)
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:00am PT
I heard that a 1997 rockfall ... the left side of Werner's Crack fell off! ~ Clint
Think this is it(?)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:11am PT
at Last Resort Cliff...

before Jan 2011:


after Jan 2011


the first pitch of Plumkin and the climbs Turning Point, Side Kick, and Tiger Paw are gone.

as reported in the thread Been to Last Resort cliff lately?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 28, 2011 - 10:37am PT


fsck

climber
Dec 29, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
I bet Honeymoon Chimney goes in the next century.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 29, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
Cool photo set Ed! Interesting that the tree hung on right at the break line.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Dec 29, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
Anyone climb that dihedral yet Ed? Looks bitchen!!!
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Dec 29, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
West face of the Dru
West face of the Dru
Credit: laughingman


The west face of the Aiguille du Dru falls off every couple of years.
BLD

climber
Dec 29, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
Great thread!

So, all the posts here have got me thinking and remembering. Back in my day at stony point I remember a story that shot chills down my greenhorn spine. Mike Waugh was telling me about this time he had a Greyhound bus sized chunk of rock tumbling down towards him from way above. He talked about how he just got kinda peaceful as it seemed he was doomed. The big chunk bounced right over his party. They were fine, not a scratch! Pumped with adrenaline for hours if not days!........ I wanna say he said it was on the Column?????? Anyone heard this story or dose Mike post here?
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Dec 30, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Warbler: "I was eyeballing a roof crack which split the 200 ft wide arch above Happy Isles some time ago. It looked like a splitter hand crack through a 20 ft horizontal roof ... The arch and its crack dropped a month later - the Big One at Happy Isles."
perswig

climber
Dec 30, 2011 - 04:18pm PT

Otter Cliff, Acadia NP

An excellent 5.8 called Razor Crack used to live here until '08.
(pic stolen from mountainproject)

Dale
perswig

climber
Dec 30, 2011 - 04:22pm PT
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/wfeature-cannon-cliff-exfoliation-evolution

Link to an Alpinist blurb by Jon Sykes and pics by Jamie Cunningham (when's the new guidebook coming out, dammit?) of one of the more prominent sloughs of Cannon (excluding the demise of the Old Man hisself, 'course).

Dale
kwit

climber
california
Dec 30, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
golden door .11a at the stealth wall, donner summit fell down. at least, it appears that way.

if not, the beta in the falcon guide needs to be changed: the first bolt is on the deck behind the climber and the rest is extra super runout. and possibly .11a+++
this could be a kind of old school i've never seen before...
oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
Dec 31, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
justthemaid - I was in on the first ascent of Balance Rock in northern Malibu. The balancing nature of the rock wasn't as insecure as the funky bolts we put in. It was fun sitting on top wondering if some Chumash tribesman sat on the rock a couple of hundred years before us. Not the best rock to solo, but I'm sure back then they were pretty stout.
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
Dec 31, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
Seneca Rocks' Gendarme:
Credit: Paco

Odin saw the pillar and couldn't resist flicking it...that's my theory, anyway.
All gone.
All gone.
Credit: Paco
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 31, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
Yes, the splitter through the big arch over Happy Isles...

I was looking for photo ops from the Vernal Falls trail, and saw the ill fated splitter and what's now known as Heaven. Tromped around up there to get my bearings, walked over to Heaven at the end of the day and was astonished by its easy access and unrealized climbing and photo potential.

I was looking for a roof climb with Tenaya Canyon and Half Dome behind it with intentions of photographing it for a Valley Rim climbing article. A few weeks later the big roof dropped on Happy Isles just before I was planning to return and rap down to check it out.

The photo op on Heaven got poached, and I never followed up on the Valley rim climbing article.

Hey WERNER! Tell us about the big EC rockfall you witnessed from the base, with Dale?
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
Here's a recent one, Castles in the Sand, Church Area, Sedona AZ.

Before (from my guidebook pictures):

Castles In the Sand - before.
Castles In the Sand - before.
Credit: MisterE

After (about a week ago):

Castles in the Sand - after
Castles in the Sand - after
Credit: Manny

The roof move is now much closer to the white rock band.

"Dude? Part of your route fell down!"



RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Nov 6, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
WOW Mr E! I loved that route...anyone been up there since the fall?
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
Not yet, according to Manny as of today.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 6, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
Never climbed there but the fall of the Gendarm at Seneca Rocks comes to mind.
DM88T

climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
Nov 6, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
Credit: DM88T
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 6, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
Man, that is a GREAT WHITE!

Captain...or Skully

climber
Nov 6, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
That Dude needs a Proper name. Like "The Runnin' Dude" or some such.
What do YOU see in that patch o' white?
Loose Rocks

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Nov 6, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
Sailfish.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
Just a note to say that Michael Broad posted on FB that he did the climb a week ago, he was wondering about:

1. Smashed hangers barely clippable
2. Loose choss up to the roof
2. easier than the .11+ from our guide.

There you have it - the new first ascent.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=4d0_1361339682
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 20, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
Yeah, a sixty foot section of the ridge at the top out of one of my routes out at Beacon came down a couple of years ago.

Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Feb 20, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
Somehow, I think this thread should be part of this one too:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2076590/One-Piton-Too-Many

Eric
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
There are bolts in the talus blocks below Mayhem... I don't know the story, but it kinda freaks me out every time I climb there.
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