| Messages 1 - 106 of total 106 in this topic |
MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Just talked to the doctor last night, and a 50-foot pillar of rock at The Tomahawk in Sedona parted ways with the main formation. It is now a separate small tower - it moved like 6 feet! Rendering one of our mixed lines "Don't Axe Me" (on the Tomahawk, heehee) and one of John Burcham's great routes "Little Big Man" completely gone.
Another one that comes to mind is "The Killer Cracks" at Joshua Tree. The block fell out, leaving a ridiculously hard-looking bouldering problem.
Other stories?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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"Block" is somewhat of an understatment. Paging Tony Sartin!! ;)
E- post up that other pic from the (pending)Sedona Guide... can't remember the name of it.
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socialclimber
Mountain climber
CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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Gotta remember this thread when ACDD falls in the Grotto. Someone aught to take Ed's advice and trundle the fvcker...
Charles
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nick farley
climber
bishop
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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Ever climb at Cannon Cliff NH? Lots of routes there have come and gone.
Whale's Tale?
Weissner route?
Help out here East Coast.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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There are some bolts in blocks in the talus below Mayhem...
... damn this stupidtopo photo upload gadget... if I don't find the photo in 20 seconds the music stops and firefox poops... only happens with the taco photo application...
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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I'm sure Werner can tell us some tales.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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Little Big Man was a project of mine.
m'eh!
double m'eh!
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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At some point Mickey's Beach in Northern Califonia had a crack that eventually fell into the ocean.
I'll try to find the link to a video of the crack...
But its no longer avaialble for climbinglyness...
Got some hard thing in it's place... Looks to have stabilized rather well since then.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PywRnBl7IE
That's the one...
No longer available.. Specially for the die-hard spanex wearers... Mighty Hiker comes to mind!!!!
LOL
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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The whole Appalachian Mountain Range fell down, there must have been some awesome routes there a few million years ago.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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Nice link Anders. Posted before my time here on ST so I'd never seen it.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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Not climbing... but "Bird Rock" down in La Jolla fell down with that last cycle of big storms...
Arches made of sand crumble to the sea...
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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Any routes over there?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Depends - could you place a Blue Donini™ on it?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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There used to be two cracks here, to the right of Gunsmoke in Josh, called the Killer Cracks. The left one was good, a fun solo at 5.9. Shortly after the face between them sprouted bolts the entire block toppled forward, face down on the new route, leaving a big alcove. Divine intervention?
Face down in the dirt!
Now there is a hard highball there:
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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Here's the pic of David on the FA of "Don't Axe Me":
 Missing photo ID#189122
Everything right of the crack is gone. It looks thin here, but thickens around the corner.
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hb81
climber
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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The above images show the texas flake boulder. Totally gone, there is no trace of it downstream either. Now that's a f*#king powerful storm.
Wow, thats quite impressive indeed. The proverbial force of nature in action.
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Pass the Chongo, Chongo
Social climber
LOVE, TRUST, PIXIE DUST
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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HEY THERE SAY... IS YOUR DOCTOR YOUR CLIMBING PARTER???? THATS VERY COOL YOU MUST GET VERU SAFE.,,, I WHSH MY DOCTOR WOULD CLIMB WITH EM,,, BUT I DONT HAVE HEALTHINSUERNCE NO MORE... OH WELL.,, IF YOUR DOCTOR IS LOOKING FOR A NEW PARTNER LET ME KNOW I CAN ROPE UP. AND BIG WALL.
THANKS
XOIXOX
CHINGO
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
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Gendarme at Seneca.
In Little Cottonwood Canyon, a huge hunk of cliff spalled off on the left side of the Gate Buttress a few years back. Gone are classics like Old Reliable, Knuckle Buster, Catalyst...
Cliff above the first pitch of the Great White Icicle spalled off a couple years ago. Blew the first pitch belay boulder up and changed the watercourse a bit.
In both cases, new routes went up in the new rock rather quickly...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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Basket Dispatcher in the Gallatin Canyon fell down a couple seasons back...Kind of an obscure route...glad I climbed it when it was around...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Near Blanding Utah There was that route,.11 fingers, That Manny, Mike F and I did, that Jello broke. It was like the heel on a loaf of rock. It can be seen being climbed in the climbing Video, "Three weeks and a Day."
 I don't think Jello really broke it, but he was the last one with it. He pounded an angle for a rappel that looked like a potential prybar to me. No rock lasts forever.....
There's a description and tale of it's demise in one of the Desert Rock books.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Yikes! I'm starting to think this rock climbing thing could be dangerous, what with all the cliffs collapsing everywhere.
Weren't EE, Mo and Mari up on Tissasack when huge pieces of the face started coming off below them? I kind of remember EE saying they thought it might take them off but it stopped short of their position.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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In Little Cottonwood Canyon, a huge hunk of cliff spalled off on the left side of the Gate Buttress a few years back. Gone are classics like Old Reliable, Knuckle Buster, Catalyst...
Oh yeah, that was awesome! I was climbing around Gordon's Hangover what must have been <3 days before. I came back 3 days later and thought... hey, something is different... would have loved to have watched that from the top of Gordon's.
Remember this from Yosemite a couple years ago...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
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What was Werners route that fell off in the valley? Up Tenaya a bit I think.
Donini said: The whole Appalachian Mountain Range fell down, there must have been some awesome routes there a few million years ago.
You probably had most of the cliffs to yourself back when things were different then Jim.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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That was back when p'terodactyls were nesting on El Cap.
Werner's Crack is the one by Mirror Lake that collapsed.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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4x4 wall in Indian Creek two years ago.
A couple of unnamed cracks were lost.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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If the "owl" hadn't fallen from Owl Rock in Arches just before the USGS made the maps then the name would have been put on them.
Due to the capricious regulations in the '70s that prohibited climbing on any named feature (seriously, that was the rule) I would have had to have pulled a Potter to do the FA of what became the most frequented route in the park!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Still waiting for the Endless Bummer formation south of Mickey's Beach to roll down the hill.....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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hadn't heard that about LCC, I did all those routes Wes mentioned when I lived there, Whoo hoo!
Someday soon Slot Machine, in Indian Creek, will be on this list.
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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One less route but some killer indoor bouldering! Billings Rimrocks.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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"Pageing Mr Pillar. Will Mr Bonatti Pillar come to the front desk?"
There was a thread about that with some amazing pictures.
(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.
By Sam Cage
GRINDELWALD, Switzerland | Mon May 21, 2007
(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.
The ice that glues Alpine peaks together is slowly melting, loosening rocks and making classic European climbs like the Eiger and Matterhorn even riskier than in the past.
"Now there are routes that just can't be done any more," said Grindelwald mountain guide Marco Bomio.
He pointed out a slope on the Eiger's northeast face, first climbed in 1932, which is now often too dangerous to ascend as there is too little ice and snow on the route.
After a major rockfall -- which geographers say are ever more common in the Alps -- guides are often called in to secure the mountainside by clearing loose rocks and binding others in nets.
"These days we make more money from rockfalls than we do as mountain guides," Bomio said.
rest of article:
http://www.reuters.com/article/2007/05/21/environment-swiss-rockfalls-dc-idUSL1451393120070521
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
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Bonatti had a 100m high pillar fall over his head on the Grandes Jorasse.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
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Stoney Point: There was this funky little top-rope we used to do in the 1980s. It fell down in the Northridge quake leaving a new funky little top-rope problem. I snagged the FA a few weeks later. One of the few documented FA's a Stoney. (who cares?)
Some day that some boulder is going to come down to be with Boulder One. It rolled around nicely in the Northridge quake. A couple little more shaking ought to bring it down. Now that would be an interesting trundle!
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jan 31, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
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weschrist.....where is that? I can't figure it out for the life of me!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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cinque torri in the dolomites actually has more than five towers. this one fell down shortly before we visited there in 2004 and had already sprouted bolts on the "new" face.
the tower was a minor formation, but it nevertheless had several routes on it. you can never tell when something's gonna up and keel over. here's the main group, hopefully more stable:
notice the covered-over trail in that first photo. isn't there something like that on the walk into the cookie cliff?
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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Mister E - Didn't you and Doc put that up just recently?
Thought I saw a TR about that... Could be mistaken
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
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cool rockfall link. It's sort of related to the topic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afI58PRmTJ0
My two year old likes all big machines, trucks, trains, planes, and helicopters. You tube is a treasure trove for a dad.
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
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Herm's Tower, aka "Positive Vibrations", a free standing 90 foot basalt hexagon at Vantage. Bastards.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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Some of you must remember the Trigger Finger at Peshastin Pinnacles just east of Leavenworth. Gone now.
And then there's the other kind of lost route. The kind where the rock hasn't changed, but access fell off. Got a whole amazing cliff full of those...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Loose Lips, Joshua Tree.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
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Loose Lips. Right!
I think I saw Coz solo that thing on a cold winter day (he was wearing a full on down jacket) about a year before it collapsed.
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Brian
climber
California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
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Saw Croft solo Loose Lips the day before (I think) it fell. I wasn't there the day it came down so I can't say for sure. We used to joke that Peter was so strong he destabilized the thing.
I'm not much of a boulderer, but I miss the Swimming Hole. That place was magic. Hard to believe it just... disappeared.
Killer Cracks were good too, though I remember calling them the Kung Fu Cracks (I'm sure Ksolem is right since he knows that place backwards and forwards).
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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Great thread.
Y'all know what did in Mickey's Beach right?
a FLAG MANOEUVRE!!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 31, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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I heard that a 1997 rockfall ... the left side of Werner's Crack fell off! ~ Clint
I followed on this thing around '76 or so, wearing some shoenards.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
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Matty,
I remember the swimming hole. Use to party there when I was a kid. Hope all of you guys are still pulling in those parts. :) Loved those routes despite them being way out of my league.
:)AFS
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
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Rad thread...
that totem pole pic got me laughing pretty hard.
And that huge boulder in that guys house!
I've noticed that the majority (not all) are sandstone.
Shoot man, with crap that big, screw the helmet... just get it over with.
After reading and viewing this thread, it's a wonder any of us are still alive after climbing!
MORE PICTURES! This page is getting boring with no pics...
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
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Nice! That makes me happy! I do hope that the next big storm is properly 100 years away. :)AFS
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Trigger Finger was fun. Too bad it's gone now.
The huge flake which used to stick out on Kootenay Flake, at Twin Bays on Kootenay Lake, [get it?] disappeared one winter, along with a wide swath of trees.
A big chunk fell off Sickle at Squamish a long time ago. The route was re-established about two points harder.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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Climbs on my list that I was, once upon a time, informed I wouldn't get to do:
Werner's Crack
Pretty much everything left of the Folly.
Wild, Wild, West.
I've told the tale here before, but a while ago...maybe 2002?...Minerals proposed to lead a geology tour in the Valley. I learned a lot that day. He took us over to Lower Cathedral to see 'his favorite boulder', but couldn't find it. Looking left...looking right...sure it's here. I was heaving and weezing from the hike so I took a seat on a not favorite boulder and noticed that there was a bolt with hanger just next to my tush...And thus solved the mystery of where went the missing favorite bouldering.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Buju-
Wes posted pix of the Ahwiyah Point rockfall in spring of 09.
Pretty cool to watch from the Column.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I recall that article from Climbing Magazine about Black Canyon from a few years back. I don't still have it, but there was a picture of the FAists camped out on an enormous ledge mid way up. The entire ledge and 1/2 a pitch of route was just gone when when they went looking for it. Pretty freaky. That article did an excellent job of encouraging me to stay the hell away from that place.
"WELCOME TO BLACK CANYON- The Rock is Great."
"Just clip it! It's good! We swear!"
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Captain...or Skully
climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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YOWZA!!!
Great pic, JTM.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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(Fortunately) Not my pic. Some other poor Colorado climber had the misfortune of that little surprise. I found it while I was Googling-around around looking for pictures of Black Canyon's route/ledge that fell down. That's not the only photo of a bolt sticking out of something no longer attached to the wall BTW.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
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we were on or way up to eagle ake butress once, and at the bridge crossing going up the creek, there was a one pitch 5.9 crack corner and roof at the bridge. On the way back down in the evening, the whole roof portion (size of a Van) was laying in the creek....hhhhhmmmmm It had been a documented route for years. didnt see any thing (or person) under said block though...
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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the boulder in jt that was left after the killer cracks fell sharma bagged it and its called "iron will" V11/12 or something like that - my bro charlie repeated it.
i dont have a pic but i did a great fa of a tricky V5 traverse into a fun V4 up problem in gualala park in nor cal and i went back after a few months to show a friend and i came around the corner of the other boulders there to show him my new one and it was totally gone - vanished into the ocean and the sand.
it was a few months since i had been there and during that time a huge winter storm must have made the nearby gualala river mouth so wide and strong that it just pushed my boulder out into the sand and eventually the ocean - frkn crazy because the boulder was as big as a house!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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A large chunk of this fell off some years ago, you can see the edge sticking out of the water, not the best rock to begin with so what do you expect?
This one was great. I had seen this boulder perched up on a hill for years and then one day decided to see if it would move. All it took was a little digging and some prying with sticks from behind and down she rolled. estimated over 100,000lbs of boulder. It now has 5 or 6 lines on it and there is still a deep trough in the ground where it rolled.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Wasn't there a minor quake in Sedona in the last week? Cause/effect?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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nice trundle fa's!
that reminds me of another mickeys beach story - the orange buddha boulder was on the hillside about 75ft above the nude "red rock" beach and in the late 80's or early 90's it slid down onto the nude beach where it is rumored to have sat for a few weeks before it split in two! there are about 25 killer problems on it now from V0-V11! one of the locals wrote "danger" under it steep side on the beach to warn you that it might break in pieces again so don't sit under it. funny, i wont sit under it but i will climb on it. hmmm?
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Larry - Yes, I heard there was a minor earthquake in Sedona last week.
JusttheMaid - You might be referring to Kor's Cave(?) on the Dragon route in the Black Canyon. Apparently a decent sized ledge peeled off at some point after the first ascent.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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I was a young gun with a freshly purchased hilti. I was replacing old 1/4" bolts up and down the northern cali coast.
One beach has a tower, maybe 40 feet high and so-so rock. It had a few sport routes on it. The only route I wanted to do repetedly was a TR, unclimbable unles accessed by climbing other routesto the tower summit.
The Tr was called "The missing Red Bannana Slug". I asked aroud for oppinions on bolting it. Sounded like the FAist and th geeral scene were into it.
IT starts by lybacking a flake the size of two grand pianos, then crinps to a shale top out. The flake sounded moe solid than the surrouundng rock, and would not take gear due to it's flaring chosy nature. So I bolted the climb, 4 bolts one on the flake.
Two weks later (?) there was a nearthquake. I went to the beach and the whhole ist half of the clinb was on the ground With one bolt sticking up.
It left a big mess under tthe now gone flake. Tried to clinb it again, sucked. Renamed it "A salted Slug".
Sorry for the rambling, I am on a shitload of ditltil another sh#t in the hospital.
Bye.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Some day that some boulder is going to come down to be with Boulder One. It rolled around nicely in the Northridge quake. A couple little more shaking ought to bring it down. Now that would be an interesting trundle!
i figured it was worth a couple fotos for this thread, since i was headed up there today.
here's a look at degrees-of-separation on the NE side--spider, does this reflect some jumping around during the '94 quake? or might it have been from the 1857 quake?
view up close on the SE side--center of gravity seems to be leaning nicely to the back:
however the view from the NW is not quite as comforting:
will it fall next week--or two ice ages from now?
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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yes Jingy, the crazy thing is the route was first put up in 2009 and fell down, probably in late 2010, and yes there was a 3.5 e-quake in Sedona a couple of weeks ago, don't know where the epicenter was. Unfortunately there were 5 of us there that day and no camera. I'll be back there soon and i'll get some pics.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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My Project!
Maybe Stick It will fall over soon (or just turn into a massive OW).
that's one way to "tick" my projects.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I remember the old Patagonia add with Charlie Fowler climbing
the Fang, near Vail, CO, with the caption "it fell down the
next day"
(a notorious, tiny ice sickle). . .
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Tony - that was strictly from Northridge. Plus it has erroded in the last 15 years It was juicy right after the quake. I've thought about placing wedge stones to make sure when it wobbles they drop into place and it comes down for sure. But...too much trouble.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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The iconic leaning column on the Durrance route on Devil's Tower moves substantially when you stand on it. If it falls off sumiting by the easiest route will change significantly.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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The missing red banana is/was my route.
Didn't know your story tho, Paul.
Salted slug sounds appropriate.
And didn't that have 5/16" buttonheads? ;-)
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I expect a good hard quake could easily topple Balancing Rock at Echo Cliffs. That thing looks so precariously balanced a harsh word could make it jump. Never seen anyone climb the routes on it.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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I climbed both the right, and left Killer Cracks shortly before that block fell.
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klaus
Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
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Is this thing still there?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, mr. E ... very interesting stuff here...
thanks for the share...
:)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:00am PT
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I heard that a 1997 rockfall ... the left side of Werner's Crack fell off! ~ Clint
 Think this is it(?)
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Dec 28, 2011 - 10:37am PT
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fsck
climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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I bet Honeymoon Chimney goes in the next century.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 29, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Cool photo set Ed! Interesting that the tree hung on right at the break line.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 29, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
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Anyone climb that dihedral yet Ed? Looks bitchen!!!
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Dec 29, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
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The west face of the Aiguille du Dru falls off every couple of years.
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BLD
climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
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Great thread!
So, all the posts here have got me thinking and remembering. Back in my day at stony point I remember a story that shot chills down my greenhorn spine. Mike Waugh was telling me about this time he had a Greyhound bus sized chunk of rock tumbling down towards him from way above. He talked about how he just got kinda peaceful as it seemed he was doomed. The big chunk bounced right over his party. They were fine, not a scratch! Pumped with adrenaline for hours if not days!........ I wanna say he said it was on the Column?????? Anyone heard this story or dose Mike post here?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 30, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Warbler: "I was eyeballing a roof crack which split the 200 ft wide arch above Happy Isles some time ago. It looked like a splitter hand crack through a 20 ft horizontal roof ... The arch and its crack dropped a month later - the Big One at Happy Isles."
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perswig
climber
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Dec 30, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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Otter Cliff, Acadia NP
An excellent 5.8 called Razor Crack used to live here until '08.
(pic stolen from mountainproject)
Dale
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kwit
climber
california
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Dec 30, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
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golden door .11a at the stealth wall, donner summit fell down. at least, it appears that way.
if not, the beta in the falcon guide needs to be changed: the first bolt is on the deck behind the climber and the rest is extra super runout. and possibly .11a+++
this could be a kind of old school i've never seen before...
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Dec 31, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
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justthemaid - I was in on the first ascent of Balance Rock in northern Malibu. The balancing nature of the rock wasn't as insecure as the funky bolts we put in. It was fun sitting on top wondering if some Chumash tribesman sat on the rock a couple of hundred years before us. Not the best rock to solo, but I'm sure back then they were pretty stout.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Dec 31, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Seneca Rocks' Gendarme:
Odin saw the pillar and couldn't resist flicking it...that's my theory, anyway.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Dec 31, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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Yes, the splitter through the big arch over Happy Isles...
I was looking for photo ops from the Vernal Falls trail, and saw the ill fated splitter and what's now known as Heaven. Tromped around up there to get my bearings, walked over to Heaven at the end of the day and was astonished by its easy access and unrealized climbing and photo potential.
I was looking for a roof climb with Tenaya Canyon and Half Dome behind it with intentions of photographing it for a Valley Rim climbing article. A few weeks later the big roof dropped on Happy Isles just before I was planning to return and rap down to check it out.
The photo op on Heaven got poached, and I never followed up on the Valley rim climbing article.
Hey WERNER! Tell us about the big EC rockfall you witnessed from the base, with Dale?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
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Here's a recent one, Castles in the Sand, Church Area, Sedona AZ.
Before (from my guidebook pictures):
After (about a week ago):
The roof move is now much closer to the white rock band.
"Dude? Part of your route fell down!"
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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WOW Mr E! I loved that route...anyone been up there since the fall?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
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Not yet, according to Manny as of today.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Never climbed there but the fall of the Gendarm at Seneca Rocks comes to mind.
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Man, that is a GREAT WHITE!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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That Dude needs a Proper name. Like "The Runnin' Dude" or some such.
What do YOU see in that patch o' white?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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Just a note to say that Michael Broad posted on FB that he did the climb a week ago, he was wondering about:
1. Smashed hangers barely clippable
2. Loose choss up to the roof
2. easier than the .11+ from our guide.
There you have it - the new first ascent.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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Yeah, a sixty foot section of the ridge at the top out of one of my routes out at Beacon came down a couple of years ago.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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There are bolts in the talus blocks below Mayhem... I don't know the story, but it kinda freaks me out every time I climb there.
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| Messages 1 - 106 of total 106 in this topic |
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