"Dude? Your Route Fell Down!" - Post Up!


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Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 31, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
Near Blanding Utah There was that route,.11 fingers, That Manny, Mike F and I did, that Jello broke. It was like the heel on a loaf of rock. It can be seen being climbed in the climbing Video, "Three weeks and a Day."

 I don't think Jello really broke it, but he was the last one with it. He pounded an angle for a rappel that looked like a potential prybar to me. No rock lasts forever.....

There's a description and tale of it's demise in one of the Desert Rock books.

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 31, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
Yikes! I'm starting to think this rock climbing thing could be dangerous, what with all the cliffs collapsing everywhere.

Weren't EE, Mo and Mari up on Tissasack when huge pieces of the face started coming off below them? I kind of remember EE saying they thought it might take them off but it stopped short of their position.

Jan 31, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
What was Werners route that fell off in the valley? Up Tenaya a bit I think.

Donini said:
The whole Appalachian Mountain Range fell down, there must have been some awesome routes there a few million years ago.

You probably had most of the cliffs to yourself back when things were different then Jim.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 31, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
That was back when p'terodactyls were nesting on El Cap.

Werner's Crack is the one by Mirror Lake that collapsed.
goatboy smellz

Jan 31, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
4x4 wall in Indian Creek two years ago.
A couple of unnamed cracks were lost.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 31, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
If the "owl" hadn't fallen from Owl Rock in Arches just before the USGS made the maps then the name would have been put on them.

Due to the capricious regulations in the '70s that prohibited climbing on any named feature (seriously, that was the rule) I would have had to have pulled a Potter to do the FA of what became the most frequented route in the park!
KP Ariza

Jan 31, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
Still waiting for the Endless Bummer formation south of Mickey's Beach to roll down the hill.....

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
hadn't heard that about LCC, I did all those routes Wes mentioned when I lived there, Whoo hoo!

Someday soon Slot Machine, in Indian Creek, will be on this list.

the Moon and Antarctica
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
The Mayor

Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
Credit: The Mayor

One less route but some killer indoor bouldering! Billings Rimrocks.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
"Pageing Mr Pillar. Will Mr Bonatti Pillar come to the front desk?"

There was a thread about that with some amazing pictures.

(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.

By Sam Cage

GRINDELWALD, Switzerland | Mon May 21, 2007

(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.

The ice that glues Alpine peaks together is slowly melting, loosening rocks and making classic European climbs like the Eiger and Matterhorn even riskier than in the past.

"Now there are routes that just can't be done any more," said Grindelwald mountain guide Marco Bomio.

He pointed out a slope on the Eiger's northeast face, first climbed in 1932, which is now often too dangerous to ascend as there is too little ice and snow on the route.

After a major rockfall -- which geographers say are ever more common in the Alps -- guides are often called in to secure the mountainside by clearing loose rocks and binding others in nets.

"These days we make more money from rockfalls than we do as mountain guides," Bomio said.

rest of article:
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
Bonatti had a 100m high pillar fall over his head on the Grandes Jorasse.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
Stoney Point: There was this funky little top-rope we used to do in the 1980s. It fell down in the Northridge quake leaving a new funky little top-rope problem. I snagged the FA a few weeks later. One of the few documented FA's a Stoney. (who cares?)

Some day that some boulder is going to come down to be with Boulder One. It rolled around nicely in the Northridge quake. A couple little more shaking ought to bring it down. Now that would be an interesting trundle!

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
weschrist.....where is that? I can't figure it out for the life of me!
Tony Bird

Northridge, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
cinque torri in the dolomites actually has more than five towers. this one fell down shortly before we visited there in 2004 and had already sprouted bolts on the "new" face.

the fallen tower
the fallen tower
Credit: Tony Bird

the tower was a minor formation, but it nevertheless had several routes on it. you can never tell when something's gonna up and keel over. here's the main group, hopefully more stable:

cinque torri
cinque torri
Credit: Tony Bird

notice the covered-over trail in that first photo. isn't there something like that on the walk into the cookie cliff?


Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 31, 2011 - 09:36pm PT
Do you all remember when the Totem Pole fell down?


...and the horrible after action photo:

...and the culprit:

Credit: OUCH!

Somewhere out there
Jan 31, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
Mister E - Didn't you and Doc put that up just recently?

Thought I saw a TR about that... Could be mistaken
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
cool rockfall link. It's sort of related to the topic.


My two year old likes all big machines, trucks, trains, planes, and helicopters. You tube is a treasure trove for a dad.

Trad climber
Jan 31, 2011 - 10:47pm PT
Herm's Tower, aka "Positive Vibrations", a free standing 90 foot basalt hexagon at Vantage. Bastards.

A long way from where I started
Jan 31, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
Some of you must remember the Trigger Finger at Peshastin Pinnacles just east of Leavenworth. Gone now.

And then there's the other kind of lost route. The kind where the rock hasn't changed, but access fell off. Got a whole amazing cliff full of those...
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