Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
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Gendarme at Seneca.
In Little Cottonwood Canyon, a huge hunk of cliff spalled off on the left side of the Gate Buttress a few years back. Gone are classics like Old Reliable, Knuckle Buster, Catalyst...
Cliff above the first pitch of the Great White Icicle spalled off a couple years ago. Blew the first pitch belay boulder up and changed the watercourse a bit.
In both cases, new routes went up in the new rock rather quickly...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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Basket Dispatcher in the Gallatin Canyon fell down a couple seasons back...Kind of an obscure route...glad I climbed it when it was around...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Near Blanding Utah There was that route,.11 fingers, That Manny, Mike F and I did, that Jello broke. It was like the heel on a loaf of rock. It can be seen being climbed in the climbing Video, "Three weeks and a Day."
 I don't think Jello really broke it, but he was the last one with it. He pounded an angle for a rappel that looked like a potential prybar to me. No rock lasts forever.....
There's a description and tale of it's demise in one of the Desert Rock books.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Yikes! I'm starting to think this rock climbing thing could be dangerous, what with all the cliffs collapsing everywhere.
Weren't EE, Mo and Mari up on Tissasack when huge pieces of the face started coming off below them? I kind of remember EE saying they thought it might take them off but it stopped short of their position.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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In Little Cottonwood Canyon, a huge hunk of cliff spalled off on the left side of the Gate Buttress a few years back. Gone are classics like Old Reliable, Knuckle Buster, Catalyst...
Oh yeah, that was awesome! I was climbing around Gordon's Hangover what must have been <3 days before. I came back 3 days later and thought... hey, something is different... would have loved to have watched that from the top of Gordon's.
Remember this from Yosemite a couple years ago...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
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What was Werners route that fell off in the valley? Up Tenaya a bit I think.
Donini said: The whole Appalachian Mountain Range fell down, there must have been some awesome routes there a few million years ago.
You probably had most of the cliffs to yourself back when things were different then Jim.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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That was back when p'terodactyls were nesting on El Cap.
Werner's Crack is the one by Mirror Lake that collapsed.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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4x4 wall in Indian Creek two years ago.
A couple of unnamed cracks were lost.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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If the "owl" hadn't fallen from Owl Rock in Arches just before the USGS made the maps then the name would have been put on them.
Due to the capricious regulations in the '70s that prohibited climbing on any named feature (seriously, that was the rule) I would have had to have pulled a Potter to do the FA of what became the most frequented route in the park!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Still waiting for the Endless Bummer formation south of Mickey's Beach to roll down the hill.....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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hadn't heard that about LCC, I did all those routes Wes mentioned when I lived there, Whoo hoo!
Someday soon Slot Machine, in Indian Creek, will be on this list.
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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One less route but some killer indoor bouldering! Billings Rimrocks.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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"Pageing Mr Pillar. Will Mr Bonatti Pillar come to the front desk?"
There was a thread about that with some amazing pictures.
(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.
By Sam Cage
GRINDELWALD, Switzerland | Mon May 21, 2007
(Reuters) - Climbing sheer rock faces has never been the safest of sports, but global warming is increasing the risk factor.
The ice that glues Alpine peaks together is slowly melting, loosening rocks and making classic European climbs like the Eiger and Matterhorn even riskier than in the past.
"Now there are routes that just can't be done any more," said Grindelwald mountain guide Marco Bomio.
He pointed out a slope on the Eiger's northeast face, first climbed in 1932, which is now often too dangerous to ascend as there is too little ice and snow on the route.
After a major rockfall -- which geographers say are ever more common in the Alps -- guides are often called in to secure the mountainside by clearing loose rocks and binding others in nets.
"These days we make more money from rockfalls than we do as mountain guides," Bomio said.
rest of article:
http://www.reuters.com/article/2007/05/21/environment-swiss-rockfalls-dc-idUSL1451393120070521
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
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Bonatti had a 100m high pillar fall over his head on the Grandes Jorasse.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Jan 31, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
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Stoney Point: There was this funky little top-rope we used to do in the 1980s. It fell down in the Northridge quake leaving a new funky little top-rope problem. I snagged the FA a few weeks later. One of the few documented FA's a Stoney. (who cares?)
Some day that some boulder is going to come down to be with Boulder One. It rolled around nicely in the Northridge quake. A couple little more shaking ought to bring it down. Now that would be an interesting trundle!
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jan 31, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
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weschrist.....where is that? I can't figure it out for the life of me!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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cinque torri in the dolomites actually has more than five towers. this one fell down shortly before we visited there in 2004 and had already sprouted bolts on the "new" face.
the tower was a minor formation, but it nevertheless had several routes on it. you can never tell when something's gonna up and keel over. here's the main group, hopefully more stable:
notice the covered-over trail in that first photo. isn't there something like that on the walk into the cookie cliff?
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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Mister E - Didn't you and Doc put that up just recently?
Thought I saw a TR about that... Could be mistaken
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