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rockjockrob

Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2011 - 11:52am PT

I recently cam across these two unknown stoppers/ nuts/ wedges... They have the numbers 2 and 4 stamped between the holes on the top. The edges are machined, and to the best of my knowledge they appear to be manufactured instead of home made. They appear to have been cast instead of cut, but then were ground smooth.

Does anyone know what these are? What about when they are from? Thanks a ton.

Climb on!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
MOAC?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
That'd be my guess. MOAC, maybe 4th generation?
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
Bonjour rockjockrob,
I quite believe that these nuts are Dual Taper Wedges, also called Steve’s Stones or Gendarme Nuts. These nuts were made in 1971 (pre Chouinard Stopper era) and were cut from square bar stock.

Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
I knew Mucci would post up.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
Nicely done from Corsica!

Edit to add:

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
I was going to suggest your neighbor Marty K, but the Corsican was too quick.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
Brian in SLC: I can't believe it... Your were 5 minutes from the Nuts Museum, and 10 minutes from my shop...
rockjockrob

Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Marty Suggested I ask Stephane, and I figured this was the quickest way! Thanks all. this is great.

Climb on
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
rockjockrob, take great care of these two nuts. They are not that common...
rockjockrob

Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
I suppose now I need to figure out how to find #1,3,and 5... the hunt continues!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jan 31, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
Send me one for guidance, and I'll counterfeit a whole set for you 8-)
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Feb 1, 2011 - 03:44am PT
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Feb 1, 2011 - 09:10am PT
How may I ask did you get your hands on those??? I've only seen one once.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 1, 2011 - 11:10am PT
Your were 5 minutes from the Nuts Museum, and 10 minutes from my shop...


Yeah yeah...I emailed you a couple times, but, no response...(offered to bring a large saddlewedge you might not have). Got your number from the climbing shop on the south end of town, but, must have been the lunch hour (we got there right before they closed for lunch). We stopped in town at the tourist office to confirm our gite reservations near Corte, and, were in a hurry to get there, and get in a few pitches of climbing before passing out from the long flights. With good weather, and, partners not as interested in climbing gear, would have been hard to make a trip back to town. If only we'd have had bad weather...(ha ha).

Great place though. I'd like to get back...couple weeks wasn't long enough... Anyhoo, we were there in May 2009.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2011 - 11:30am PT
Beautiful Nuts!

Where was Gendarme based in the UK and did they make anything else?
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Feb 1, 2011 - 11:45am PT
Steve, to my knowledge The Gendarme is a famous climbing shop based near Seneca Rocks in West Virginia. I don’t believe that they produced any other nuts.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2011 - 11:50am PT
Thanks Stephane.

Another American nut to hunt for...

Does the famous Steve have a last name?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 1, 2011 - 11:59am PT
Do you have any other photo's of the Gendarme catalog? Neat!
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Feb 1, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
The Gendarme catalog has only two pages, the second one concerning the Joe Brown shirts that The Gendarme marketed in the early seventies.
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