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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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I recently cam across these two unknown stoppers/ nuts/ wedges... They have the numbers 2 and 4 stamped between the holes on the top. The edges are machined, and to the best of my knowledge they appear to be manufactured instead of home made. They appear to have been cast instead of cut, but then were ground smooth.
Does anyone know what these are? What about when they are from? Thanks a ton.
Climb on!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
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MOAC?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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That'd be my guess. MOAC, maybe 4th generation?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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Bonjour rockjockrob,
I quite believe that these nuts are Dual Taper Wedges, also called Steve’s Stones or Gendarme Nuts. These nuts were made in 1971 (pre Chouinard Stopper era) and were cut from square bar stock.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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I knew Mucci would post up.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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Nicely done from Corsica!
Edit to add:
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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I was going to suggest your neighbor Marty K, but the Corsican was too quick.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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Brian in SLC: I can't believe it... Your were 5 minutes from the Nuts Museum, and 10 minutes from my shop...
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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Marty Suggested I ask Stephane, and I figured this was the quickest way! Thanks all. this is great.
Climb on
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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rockjockrob, take great care of these two nuts. They are not that common...
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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I suppose now I need to figure out how to find #1,3,and 5... the hunt continues!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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Send me one for guidance, and I'll counterfeit a whole set for you 8-)
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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How may I ask did you get your hands on those??? I've only seen one once.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Your were 5 minutes from the Nuts Museum, and 10 minutes from my shop...
Yeah yeah...I emailed you a couple times, but, no response...(offered to bring a large saddlewedge you might not have). Got your number from the climbing shop on the south end of town, but, must have been the lunch hour (we got there right before they closed for lunch). We stopped in town at the tourist office to confirm our gite reservations near Corte, and, were in a hurry to get there, and get in a few pitches of climbing before passing out from the long flights. With good weather, and, partners not as interested in climbing gear, would have been hard to make a trip back to town. If only we'd have had bad weather...(ha ha).
Great place though. I'd like to get back...couple weeks wasn't long enough... Anyhoo, we were there in May 2009.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Beautiful Nuts!
Where was Gendarme based in the UK and did they make anything else?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Steve, to my knowledge The Gendarme is a famous climbing shop based near Seneca Rocks in West Virginia. I don’t believe that they produced any other nuts.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks Stephane.
Another American nut to hunt for...
Does the famous Steve have a last name?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Do you have any other photo's of the Gendarme catalog? Neat!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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The Gendarme catalog has only two pages, the second one concerning the Joe Brown shirts that The Gendarme marketed in the early seventies.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Curious if the catalog has an address or any ordering information?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Brian in SLC: just Seneca Rocks, WV
Steve Grossman: Richards, Steve Richards
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Robert, I figured that's what the nuts were. Definately a nice find!
I try to avoid butt shot climbing photos, or asking another climber to see his nuts, but Robert I beg for a better photo of your nuts.
Rock on! Marty
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
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I only have photos from my phone at this point. This is the only other that is of any value. I will work on getting something clearer.
rlf- I was in the right place (large ebay lot) at the right time.
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Cliff wiliams
Trad climber
nj
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I think I have a Gendarme oval biner laying around somewhere..
I'll look tonite
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> Gendarme oval biner
If you look closely, I think you will find they are asymmetric -
more oval than D, but not a true oval with semicircles on each end.
compare with
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Cliff wiliams
Trad climber
nj
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That's the biner, it came with a Houlabar,Eiger and a "Alpine hut"
Anybody know who alpine hut was?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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I just picked up a couple of Gendarme Nuts including a hex. Does anyone know how many of the hex shape were produced as this is the first one that I have come across.
The machining and edge finish work match the standard wedge shape so I'm wondering if this shape was sold commercially.
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nature
climber
SoSlo, CO
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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how can we possibly compare the size given that weird coin you have for scale? dork.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:34am PT
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Mercury and Ike fit in the same sized slot.
Now you REALLY won't get a hug...
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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They're not stoppers until they've stopped something ......
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nature
climber
SoSlo, CO
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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I wanna hug!
Mimi will though :-P
David?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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What about the BIG STOPPER?!?
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jul 15, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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Brian in SLC: just Seneca Rocks, WV
Not surprising that's the extent of the address, as the town Seneca Rocks, WV is basically a handful of buildings at an intersection in the middle of nowhere. Probably has a street address nowadays, but possibly not back in the day.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jul 15, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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This is so exciting I can hardly contain myself!!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jul 15, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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I love old gear that I found. It is like collecting old coins. Once I soloed up the chossy back side of the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mtn Park, I didn't have a partner for the classic route but there was a 5.6 or so way up the backside. Halfway up I found a steel T-Shaped stopper, made of steel and really heavy, I think made by the Forrest company. I bet no one had done that route in 20 years because the piece came right out, I was unroped when I jiggled it out and anyone could have. There should be a museum for all this old stuff.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
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A couple more Gendarme nuts...
If anyone has intermediate sizes to trade contact me.
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