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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:07am PT
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Got a picture of the bolt?
Probably not, most modern cameras won't function in such balmy weather...not unless you've managed to keep the battery warm!
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:50am PT
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Actually I didn't take any pictures today. Although my camera works great in cold temps! :) They made the Canon 7d to withstand colder temperatures and it works!
I will take a picture of my growing old bolt collection. I'm up to about 85 now since a few months ago.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jan 31, 2011 - 09:50am PT
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Why don't you chop the retro bolts YOU put in at Crack In The Woods? You know the bolts YOU knowingly added to Hocus Pocus and Splat Button?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:36pm PT
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There was a thread on Supertopo a while back (maybe a year?) that went on for some time on this issue. I thought that the modified piton was first, then just cranking on it with a long wrench and snapping it off was next.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
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As mentioned above- use a cordless grinder with a cutting wheel. Be careful to not touch the rock.
A cordless dremmel with a cutting wheel works well too if you only need to cut one or two studs. And it's lighter and easier to avoid touching the rock.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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I thought I read about a piton tuning fork thing.
Ask Clint.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
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It depends on the type of bolt, but you can either use a hacksaw blade (bend it to get as close to the rock as possible) and saw through the bolt. You only need to cut about 1/3 of the way through then you can knock it off with a hammer. Or you can use a cold chisel and chop it off, but be careful not to do too much damage to the rock as that will leave a very ugly scar.
BTW, if it s a wedge bolt, after the stud is chopped off use the appropriate sized metal rod (3/8" for 3/8" bolt)and try to pound the stud back into the hole before patching. This also works for other types of bolts as well.
Bruce
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Jan 31, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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Holy Moly John Kelley, I haven't heard from you in a while. After all this time all you can talk about is 2 routes on the highway less then 40ft long and a total of 5 bolts. Here I thought I was going to get a hug or something...
As far as those routes go I think I'm still looking for the first ascentionist. Although I may have talked to him already but he was a bit hazy on it as those routes are 20 years old or so. Gotta know how to cut bolts right before you go chopping even your own.
Thankfully ive only had about 4 or 5 problem bolts out of 80+ so thats pretty good. Some have snapped without effort and most others have come out. I like the idea of a drill with a cutting wheel. Is there an easy way to make SDS to regular or is there a cutting wheel that will actually fit the SDS bit?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Knowingly retro bolting 20 year old routes if f*#king weak. Why would you add bolts to it?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Wedge bolts 3/8th - 1/2" - Use a large breaker bar, hacksaw, or cold chissle. Then use an appropriate size punch to seat the stud, then patch the hole.
3/8 split shaft compression bolts, beat them back and forth gently until you can pull them out with a fulcrum and plyers. They pull easier if you can rotate the bolt during the beating.
1/4" buttonheads/threaded use a tuning fork, or a modified wonderbar.
Star Drives... suck! I use a crowbar with a 5/8ths slot cut for the lead sheath, then use it like a standard crowbar and lever the nail out.
5/8ths button heads, A tuning for that has been worked over and has it's tangs widened is perfect for those buggers. Tork is a master at removing these devils.
I treat Replacement like a job. I get all kinds of tools together, organize the kit, bring the ladders, chest harness etc...
I save and label all of the bolts I replace, for history ya dig!
I can tell you the worst thing ever is to shlep your entire kit up to a rebolt, start rapping and find out you have the wrong tool for the job.
Bring everything you might need for every bolt you may encounter.
Nice to hear you are providing a selfless service to the community Prez.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Thanks mucci, Ive replaced a lot so far and have been keeping them all on a piece of rope. Its quite the collection so far! I'll have to post a picture sometime. Thanks for the information, I didn't realize the star drives were a different size, no wonder they were such a pain!
John it was a 20 year old toprope, everyone who I have talked to that climbed during that time said the same thing "I might have put it up, who cares? Go ahead and bolt it." I think your anger here stems from something else and supertopo is no place to fight.....oh wait...
:)
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Yea locker I am seeing that. Although Ive only bolted those two after the fact you really just never get to hear the end of it. I have also had several people tell me what an enjoyable lead it is. They had never climbed it as a TR before but now that it is a lead climb it actually gets lots of traffic. I think in the end I will leave those bolts assuming Ive talked with the first ascentionist and they believe it to be good. The climb on the left I'll probably end up pulling two bolts from.
The climbs have had a much more positive reception then negative. Ive heard two or 3 comments against and about 10 are for it.
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ec
climber
ca
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For small diameter bolts like .25" that break off in the hole, drill a hole right along side (a power drill is the only way, however) and use a punch to knock it over and pluck it out. Then drill a .5" diameter hole through both holes and place a new .5" diameter bolt.
 ec
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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My question Prez is why the hell are your replacing bolts in 23 degree weather on that shite by the Seward Highway and not coming down here to play. I'll be in RR for a week beginning Thursday.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Two of them were already lead climbs. You added bolts to them because they were too runout for you.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Oh donini thats just a mean thing to say! If I had the funds I'd be joining you there in a heartbeat. I have already been climbing when I go out bolting and my fingers are getting used to it.
I was hoping on the possibility of coming down that way in March or so.
John: well thats not true now is it. Ive only added to two, one was a 5.10rx and the other was a TR.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I've heard that there's a route on the south side of Half Dome, that maybe you could practice on. It has lots of bolts. Coz can give you the details.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Ive heard about that route. I do have to say I wouldn't bolt that, especially rap bolt it.
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