Ron & Werner Do Astroman-Galen Photographs! Rock & Ice 1987

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 25, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
A celebration of the best corner climb ever! Galen Rowell's excellent photoessay of Ron and Werner having some fun from Rock and Ice May/June 1987.








Once you have done Astroman, it becomes like a mantra measured out in handjams...Enduro Corner, Harding Slot, Changing Corners, Rusty Sword and repeat....Ron and Werner like mantras!

Happy Holidays All!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 25, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
Thanks Steve,

Astroman is as close to the heart and soul of our climbing culture as it gets.

Best wishes to all for the holiday season and new year.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 25, 2010 - 06:28pm PT
Magnificent Stevie!! Thanks!
drewsky

climber
Seattle
Dec 25, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
The route is cemented in my memory as one of my most favorite days of rock climbing. I can remember the features quite vividly and those pictures certainly do them justice. Thank you for posting the article!

-A
North

climber
Dec 25, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
Oh yeah, actual climbing photos on a climbing site. Thank you.

Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 25, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
Thanks Steve! Happy holidays!
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Dec 26, 2010 - 12:06am PT
My favorite climb
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
Dec 26, 2010 - 12:16am PT
I got to do astroman with werner...I flashed cat squirrel,and he was like ,oh mon that ain't no rockclimim..so he took me to crimson cringe and astroman,,I only hung on the endurance pitch..every pitch he would hold out the rack and say you wanna lead this pitch? I'd eyeball the 4 pieces and 8 biners...and pass....3 hours or something like that.. so pumped...
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Dec 26, 2010 - 12:23am PT
Thanks for posting this article - it has always been one of my favorite photo essays! Great pics, even greater climb!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
Dec 26, 2010 - 08:58am PT
Thanks Steve! Warm sunny handjam bump.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Dec 26, 2010 - 11:14am PT
every pitch he would hold out the rack and say you wanna lead this pitch? I'd eyeball the 4 pieces and 8 biners...and pass....3 hours or something like that.. so pumped...

LOL! classic. What was (is) Werners lap count (how many times he has done this route)?

Thanks Steve!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Dec 26, 2010 - 11:27am PT
pretty cool. I wish I could do it.

Maybe I'll try it someday...
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
Dec 26, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
Neato! Really cool photographs!
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Dec 26, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
That Braun Kauk guy is way rad!
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Dec 28, 2010 - 11:24am PT
What's the Rusty Sword?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 11:34am PT
That's my name for the nasty blade on the last pitch.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 28, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
That was incredibly good, Westchrist! V. funny.

Larry, ALL of Stevie’s stuff involves swords, doubloons, pirates and stuff; you should know that.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
As long as I don't end up in a tiny green suit!
RDB

Social climber
wa
Dec 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
Huge inspiration bitd...thanks for the reminder.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 28, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
One of the scariest things about climbing Astroman is imagining Peter patiently toothbrushing the greasy face holds on the outside arete finish on the Changing Corners. Then there's the grainy, loose, not obvious where to go last pitch.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
I was impressed that you could even aid the last pitch!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 28, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
Yeah really Steve. That was the A3 BITD.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
The Changing Corners pitch must have been spicy too with the slab landing!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
Last bump of the year!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
Dec 31, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
Buju, I'll follow you up it any ol' time. Like, next year or something.
Pate

Trad climber
Dec 31, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Ron looks great, but who's the scrawny little squirrel with the Village People mustache posing as a climber?

This article must be one of the reasons for the massive ego.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 11:50pm PT
Let's see you keep up with Kauk...LOL
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
Jan 1, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
Back in your hole, Pate.

Ad hominem- real classy there.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 1, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
I need to get back up on that rig again, such an awesome route!
Spiky

Trad climber
Wales
Jan 1, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
What a great post! Thank you.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
I love that shot of Werner and Ron!

Happy New Year!$!
WBraun

climber
Jan 1, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
This was the "Sports Illustrated" photo shoot.

I can't remember who belayed Ron.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
Did anything appear in SI? I don't think that I saw that one!
Prod

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
Sweet!

Prod.
Bad Climber

climber
Jan 15, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
Great stuff. Steve, you've been posting so many cool old articles, I guess one could always do a search of your name, but maybe Super Topo needs a special "history" archive or something? Anyway, TFPU.

BAd
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 15, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
What a cool climb! Had to give huge kudos to my Yosemite Brothers (whether they remember me or not...) May the Gods bless...(Best climb I've ever done...Quality wise..)Watusi...
WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
Mike we remember you well. You're good man.

Steve the Sports Illustrated article by Sam Moses the photos by Galen

http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/vault/article/magazine/MAG1064893/index.htm
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Awesome pics, thanks for posting!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
How classic is that article title: On The Rocks, Kauk Is It



Spoken out loud....

LOL
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
bump for climbing
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
Thanks for the citation Werner. I will have to find it.
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Feb 5, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
So Cool, Thanks!!
Kiwiclimber

Ice climber
Kiruna, Sweden
Feb 8, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
Thanks for posting. Astroman is a magnificent climb. I did it with Alex Lowe in about 1980. Great to have Alex along to lead the boulder problem pitch and the Harding Slot (I got the Enduro pitch - superb - and the last pitch - scary...).

Bought my last pair of EBs from Ron Kauk on that same trip to the Valley.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 8, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
hey there say, steve... thanks for the neat share...

i missed a lot of stuff around christmas, etc, ... was very busy...

thanks again...
:)
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 8, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
Nice pictures!
mariaji

Social climber
Tucson, AZ
Feb 8, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
Oula Ronaldo!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Feb 9, 2011 - 12:18am PT
Climbing bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
Astrobump...
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 14, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
Ahhh, the days of simple and clean mag layouts...
o-man

Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 15, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
This is a great post Steve! Thanks for digging through the archives and posting our heritage! I remember both of the articles and the period that they were published. I remember when Ron told me about the Survival Of the Fittest competition and many other of the details mentioned in the awesome Sports Illustrated article.
It pleases me to no end when I read the names and hear the tales of people that played a significant roll in the insignificant drama I call my life!
SUPERTOPO Rocks!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
Ron and Werner Bump!
Mimi

climber
Jul 4, 2011 - 01:26am PT
Hilarious! That is so Werner. Gotta love that guy.
LongAgo

Trad climber
Jul 4, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
Somehow the last crud face pitch seemed like the crux of the whole thing. I was pretty good at face in the day, but between the not too happy pro and rock quality and end of day fatigue - big sigh of relief to get it. Maybe a word of caution to those who have not done yet but are wanting to try - take care there.

Overall, great exposed positions, steep, unlikely sections, strenuous in sustained way. O, and then be careful on descent too. Some very good climbers have had some nasty slips and slides on that one.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
I like to call that last blade of crumbling granite the Rusty Sword. I am very impressed that it has withstood as many aid ascents as it has but you still have to steel yourself for the step away moves!

I still remember the bong hole behind the ear at the end of those moves too. A handjam never felt so good and there are lots of them on that route!

I bet some big falls have been taken trying to get off that pitch.
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Jul 6, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
It is worth mentioning that this was actually a 4 person ascent of Astroman, with the late Andy Embick being the "missing member" of the team. I'd been climbing with Andy that spring in Redrocks and the Valley, and Andy was determined to do Astroman, so when he heard about the plans for the photo shoot he talked himself into the equation.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
Cool detail Al!

Andy was likely more than happy to get the rope up there.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 23, 2011 - 12:05am PT
and a twoie
Spike Flavis

Trad climber
Truckee California
Dec 23, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
Are those the ultra-secret-magic red fee-ray rock shoes?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
Grab that Spike and gaze up into the Harding Slot...

Spike Bump!
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 24, 2012 - 11:25am PT
I remember Galen coming down after this shoot and marveling how fast Werner rope gunned for his jug line. He would just scramble away from the belay as fast as Galen could pay out rope. Galen was an inattentive belayer to begin with, so it's good you didn't fall Werner.

This shot from right at the lip of the slot is pretty unusual

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
Such a fine crack and nice young men admiring it...
David D.

climber
Pacific Grove, CA
Mar 11, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
Reminds me of a picture posted on Mountain Project of Werner running it out on Astroman:


Quite the argument broke out in the comments and much armchair-climber internet rage was directed at Werner's selective use of gear:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106626733
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Mar 11, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
pretty sure i have that issue, if someone really wants it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
What? He's got a handjam...

What was Charles Cole III doing up there?
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Apr 8, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
love the quotes on mountainproject.

some guy named Russ (must have a fishing store, based on his website and comment)

Right on. The dude is reckless and just showing off. Total BS. I would never climb with anyone that thinks being super solid and running it way out is cool. It's not people. Someone is going to get hurt or worse! I sure hope that belayer is using a tiblock or something.
WBraun

climber
Apr 8, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
What a stupid climber that Werner guy is.

He should be banned from climbing setting such a bad example for the future n00bs .......
Johnny K.

climber
Apr 8, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
hahaaa
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
Tobin and Dave do Astroman...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1856207/Tobin-Sorenson-David-Goeddel-Astroman-May-1978
Just so it doesn't get lost...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
GTO Speedwagon's first album, Valley Boys, went straight to the top, dude!
Gunks Guy

Trad climber
Woodstock, NY
Jun 18, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
When that issue came out I got myself a pair of bright red baggy pants just like Kauk. Somehow my old pictures don't look quite as stylish as I thought back then - not as bad as the old lycra pix though.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Jun 18, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
hey gunks guy
did you also don a cap of enlightenment?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
May We All Don the Cap in 2013!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 5, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
cool thread.
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Jan 23, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
bump for climbing
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Bump for fun!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Birthday +1 Bump for ze VunderBraun$$$
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
X-mas Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
The Rusty Sword got an Original School A5 back in the Red Book days. I wonder who got that lead?

Amazing that it has stayed put.
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Mar 31, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
climbing content(with photos)bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
Astroprep Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 11:42am PT
Galen Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 04:37pm PT
Valley Classic Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 05:36pm PT
What a great route...bump.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Jan 23, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2017 - 02:07pm PT
Ho Man, it's the Stroman...Bump
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 23, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
so many bumps--looks like a mosquito horde's been thru here

yur right about Galen's lack of attention on belay--disconcerting fer sure
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 23, 2017 - 05:50pm PT
"When in doubt run it out"
How wrong.
The picture of Werner stemming implies:
"When there is no doubt run it out"
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Karkoekstan, Former USSR
Oct 23, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
Werner is Astroman
Tobia

Social climber
Denial
Oct 24, 2017 - 07:24am PT
i tried Werner's Sports Illustrated link to find the article, but it no longer works. There is another Sports Illustrated archive link which dates back to 1954. i don't know the date of the issue the article was published, anyone have that information?

i found this ad in one issue while searching, thought it might stimulate some commentary.

This one is definitely OT, but i can't resist posting.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2018 - 10:12am PT

"Astro Man"

Here I come to save the day

A little boy inside a dream just the other day
His mind fell out of his face and the wind blew it away
A hand came out from heaven and pinned a badge on his chest
It said 'get out there, man, and do your best'

They call him astro man
And he's flyin' higher than
That faggot superman ever could

Oh, they call him cosmic nut
And he's twice as dense as donald duck
And he'll try his best to screw you up
The rest of your mind
Oh, look out! my guitars

Astro man, flyin' across the sky two times higher
Than that old faggot superman ever, ever could
Ever could

There he goes, there he goes
Where he stops, no one knows
There he goes, there he goes
He's tryin' to, tryin' to blow out the rest of your mind
He's gonna blow out the rest of your mind
Talkin' about lookin' for peace of mind
Astro man will leave it in pieces
Have you put our trouble behind him
Make you fly around in pieces
Yeah, blow out the rest of your mind
Astro man will blow out the rest of your mind
He's gonna blow out the rest of your mind

Messages 1 - 90 of total 90 in this topic
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