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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 18, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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I had the opportunity to ask David Goeddel about this early ascent of Astroman. His words are below. A very impressive effort in May of 1978.
Astroman with Tobin Sorenson, May 1978. He had no shoes so he borrowed my old EBs that were about 3 sizes too large for him. The Harding slot was completely wet with snow melt, but was no problem for Tobin. 6 hours ( that was actually considered quite fast in 1978).
Tobin led the entire climb. I was completely out of shape at the time as I was in the middle of 6 months of around the clock work cloning the insulin gene. I was excited just to get to the Valley for a short weekend. Tobin claimed he was out of shape also, so we were planning just to do some short climbs. But then he decided he wanted to do Astroman (and of course, out of shape for him was not the same as for the rest of us). He had no problems, even in the big shoes. He stayed in the slot, climbing right through the water. I jumared most of the climb, but it was certainly a great experience watching him lead.
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TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Nice. 1978. EBs. Astroman.
Thanks for the post.
Always love to hear tales of Tobin.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
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word. . .
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
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i look at tobin and
i realize that it is the boy inside that
thrives us, not the man.
the man gets us lost, chasing his prescribed position
a in society.
thanks for the lesson tobin.
you continue to contribute to the progression of my life.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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That is very cool!
Thanks much, David Wilson/David Goeddel.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jun 18, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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yep, this is what keeps me coming back--the gems.
Tobin must've unlocked his mind. So impressive!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jun 18, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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Great stuff! thanks..
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Double D
climber
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Jun 18, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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Tobin...out of shape. Last time he told me that was '78 or, 79 and he'd just on-sighted Tales of Power then Separate Reality, a feat I believe that hadn't been done prior on either climb yet alone back to back. Amazing talent.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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This really impressed me. Apparently a couch effort. In the first pic, he obviously just linked right through the boulder problem into the enduro corner despite the drag etc...That guy could really pull
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Jun 18, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
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Holy moly!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 18, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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David Wilson wrote:
In the first pic, he obviously just linked right through the boulder problem into the enduro corner despite the drag etc...That guy could really pull
Good eye David. I missed that link up evidence.
Also, in the second picture, I'm pretty sure that's the left facing bottomless lay back, which often gets skipped these days in favor of something out right?
What an animal.
Tobin wrote about this ascent and also his on-site of Tales (as noted above by DD), commenting that he felt hollow and it was time to move on. Not sure how that fits timeline-wise with the Bible smuggling thing. In that piece, IIRC, he says he was in the best shape of his life ... So this bit about being off the couch: I think we might be posthumously busting him on a classic sandbag ... Ha!
(Although it could just as well be true that he was off the couch and either are classic Stonemaster/Sorenson fare).
How fun to have the pictures to go with the old story!
And these ascents were, as noted by toadgas: all on nuts.
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jmap
Social climber
NC
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
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Three out-of-shape people:
Person 1: Drank beer, blew off climbing and conditioning all winter.
Person 2: Got really into re-runs of Bridezilla
Person 3: Cloned the insulin gene.
Ding ding ding!
You can guess the winner.
Awesome post!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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Sweet. How tall was Tobin?
OT- Tarboy is back posting? Hell yeah!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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No way! I had no idea that Dave did Astroman with Tobin back then. Dave Goeddel was Duke No. 1 of the Poway Mountaineers. I feel like I just flunked a history test.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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Dave had a bee shirt? When did he get that?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
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I'm wondering when he started going by "David". I wonder if it was one of those "I just barely missed out on getting the Nobel prize and maybe I need to do something to make those people notice me more next time" things.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
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How 'bout that, Dave's real name is David! He must of had it legally changed. Thanks DW.
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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Awesome history!
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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Tales Of Power was Spring '78. He was going to Bible School/College and could only get away occasionally to climb. So it was right off the couch, so to speak. I personally recall watching a good friend of mine at the time(GM)belay RK on the first ascent of Tales.
I specifically remember watching GM belaying RK from Reeds one day while I was climbing something there. Took numerous falls attempting to get the FA(which he eventually did after returning several times, of course). Some pretty run out and impressive looking leader falls from his highpoint that day on that overhanging crack(big air time). GM related afterwards how impressed he was with RK's tenacity(in regards to returning time after time/taking many lead falls, etc).
Then Tobin shows up and sends it on sight/first try and without any falls. Pretty impressive. And like others here have said, right off the couch.
Tobin was conflicted about his desire to become a full time missionary, evangelist, bible smuggler vs his love for climbing and desire to be with his friends and climbers in general, around that time. Which he also considered a mission field of sorts and where a big part of his heart was(reaching climbers with the gospel message). And, obviously, he loved climbing also.
He was fully and 100% committed to following Christ wherever it/He led him. And that, perhaps is what someone mentioned above in regards to what he was preparing to do at that point in his life, move on from climbing to smuggling Bibles, etc!
But he eventually, of course, settled for doing allot of both. It was something he believed his Lord and Savior led him to do and wanted him to do if I correctly recall('78 was the last time I saw or spoke with him). But Tobin was certainly ready and fully committed to sacrifice everything, including his life, for Christ and those he was called to reach. And, eventually, he did exactly that!!
edit: Tobin also new exactly who to pick and whom he could trust to accompany him on Astroman! That being, none other than, one of the legendary Poway Mt. Boys! ...just sayin!!
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