Discussion Topic |
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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 20, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
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It was about 1980 and Dennis Kemp RIP climbed Half Dome when he was 57.
I had been climbing with him and new he was going to do RNWF. I knew he could, still I was 23 and impressed.
He helped me realize climbing did not stop at 30.
57 it’s not that old now that I am closing in on it.
So who is the oldest to do a wall?
Who is the oldest to be doing walls (more than two a year?)
Who is the oldest to do NIAD?
Just curious.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 20, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
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Charles Cole at 68 for a solo
Jerry the "old dad" Bloch was like 81 or so but jugged (?)
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Dec 20, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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Tom Frost?
Fred Becky?
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Dec 20, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
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Charles Cole at 68 for a solo
That is impressive.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 20, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
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What about the oldest to do a big wall FA?
Cole on the solo = Badass
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Dec 20, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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hold it, I don't know when he last soled El Cap, but Charles can't be 68 today (can he?)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 20, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
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Wasn't the Fish 86 when he did his last climb? The wingsuit jump after was pretty impressive, too.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 20, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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I don't think Fred ever did El Cap - too busy doing FAs?
Tom Frost did the Salathe' in 2001, age ~63, but Gerry Bloch was older.
The age group records (young and old) are kinda strange, though, if the person is just jumaring.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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I wasn't thinking Fred Becky did El Cap. But didn't he do Sentinel in his 80's?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:11am PT
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He was 68, years, maybe decades, ago....
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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Wasn't the Fish 86 when he did his last climb?
I heard he was 69...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:37am PT
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Easy there Em, as we both know, he's just a wee lad.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 21, 2010 - 03:09am PT
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God...It might be me if I don't get up there quick... :)
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dec 21, 2010 - 09:27am PT
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As far as the oldest team, I'm thinking maybe E and Mo when they did Squeeze Play this year.
Mo = 57
E = 55
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 21, 2010 - 11:37am PT
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Galen Rowell was in his 60's when he did the Nose in a day wasn't he?
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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Warren Harding is the only man to have been not only first up the Nose
but also the oldest (at that time) when he did the Nose in 1989 at age 65.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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you got a plan in the works, gramps? Errr... I mean Rich ;-)
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Damn, do I have two biological clocks? I now hear one ticking, and I definitely don't want another child! But I haven't really climbed Half Dome yet.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Dec 21, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
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Charles Cole, 68?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 21, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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So who was the oldest to put up an entirely independent new route on the Captain?
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BigNick
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Dec 21, 2010 - 03:29pm PT
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George Lowe and Conrad Anker probably have the oldest combined age ascent of El Cap in- day. I filmed them in 2005 going for Salathe. Footage can be seen here:
http://holdingonmovie.com/trailer.html
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 21, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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I was 45 on the FA of Allied Forces (VI 5.10 A4). Though not totally independant (it shares 100ft w/Mirage) this wandering line had 2600 ft. of new ground!
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
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Guess that the REAL QUESTION is; Who is the Oldest to SOLO an El Cap Route?? Any Guesses?!?!?!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 21, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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you got a plan in the works, gramps? Errr... I mean Rich ;-)
Seriously. I'm 47 and I'll be darned if I'm done. But then I have a 3 month old, so it may be a while anyways.
Charles Cole @ 68? What is that dog years?
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Gene
Social climber
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Dec 21, 2010 - 06:01pm PT
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Frank Sanders,
I think Ottawa Doug was 50 or so when he did Tribal Rite. How old is Mark Hudon?
g
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john hansen
climber
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Dec 21, 2010 - 06:01pm PT
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Harding was born in 1924 so I guess he was 47 when they did the WOEML.
Oldest to do a first ascent??
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 21, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
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I was 54 this spring but you have to overlook the first three pitches that I was belayed on to truly call it a solo.
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Gene
Social climber
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Dec 21, 2010 - 07:02pm PT
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Mark,
It was a very cool adventure whatever you call it. Major props.
g
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 21, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
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BigNick, George was likely 61 on the Nose. Cool. The guy is the energiser bunny.
Aldude, good one, but looks like Harding has you beat on both counts.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
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I think Frost was the oldest. on Elcap.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 21, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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Harding at 47 in 1970 is different than 47 these days, what is it now "47 is the new 27"?
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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2010 - 09:48pm PT
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you got a plan in the works, gramps? Errr... I mean Rich ;-)
Bold Text
Well I was thinking how old I thought 57 was back in the day and its just not that old. Yes I am getting a wall itch its been ..... well a really long time
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Dec 22, 2010 - 12:15am PT
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Hey, cool thread! How about women-oldest gal to climb El Cap or Half Dome?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 12:29am PT
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Rich, is that shot of El Gran Trono Blanco?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 04:33am PT
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> oldest gal to climb El Cap or Half Dome?
Inez D climbed the Salathe' Wall at around age 52.
But I don't know if that is an age record.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Dec 22, 2010 - 04:49am PT
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My grey hairs are falling out just reading this one:-)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Dec 22, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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Rich, I love that hammock shot on the Throne! Been there.
You're gettin' the itch, eh? They have creams for that.
Fred Beckey (Sir!) never climbed El Cap? Say it aint so!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 22, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
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You ain't dead yet so you should just GO DO IT!
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Dec 22, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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I belive that Charles Cole was 65 when he soloed El Cap. . .This was well over a Decade ago. . .df
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 22, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Mark Hugedong is only 54? Damn, he looks way older.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 22, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
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Batso strikes again! Bridwell must have been in his sixties when he put up DarkStar......but not independant.
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Gene
Social climber
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Dec 22, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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Is Welcome to Afghanistan independent?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 22, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
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I was amazed that Charles Cole should be so old. According to Dean's information he should 75 by now. An LA Times article about him, written in 2005, states that he is 50. That would make him 55 now. Does he really look like he might be 75?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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That's what I was thinking. From seeing him at Josh, etc., back in the day, I always assumed he was about 10 yrs. older than me, and I just turned 47.
Is there a Charles Cole Sr. we don't know about?
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Bad Climber
climber
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Dec 22, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Huge respect to Harding--always--but wasn't his last ascent of the Captain a jugging affair? I seem to remember seeing a picture of him with the aiders TAPED to his feet. Still a workout, but from my point of view, to climb the Captain, one should be swinging leads, eh?
BAd
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
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Even if he only jumared, Harding of all climbers deserves a pass on that one.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 22, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
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I was there when he did the 30th anniversary ascent accompanied by both guide and personal wine steward
Heluva way ta go!
But 47 on WOEML is yet another record it seems.
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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
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Fat Dad
Yup at the Maw
The approach is the hard part, wore a hole in the bottom of my haul bag.
Approach hours, Walk Off minuets.
Unless its your first time, its dark, no moon, no head lamp, but that was the week before
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CLG
Trad climber
Carmel, CA
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Dec 23, 2010 - 01:48am PT
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Eric Perlman did a NIAD when he was 60
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Dec 23, 2010 - 02:03am PT
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Dave Bloom wanted me to be his belay slave and try the oldest free climb of the nose. Anyone know what that age is? Dave aka 'the doctor' is climbing lights out still!!!! I guess that would make me...............
some sort of high end belay slave right?
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Dec 24, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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So WHO IS the oldest to solo The Captain???
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 24, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
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Did Messner ever climb El Cap?
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Dec 24, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
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> oldest gal to climb El Cap or Half Dome?
Warning: geezer retro TR alert:
http://www.summitpost.org/muir-wall-life-in-the-slow-lane/170030
I was 53 that summer, and climbed Muir Wall, Regular Route on Half Dome, and the Prow on Washington Column ... however I don't claim any kind of record, in fact it's totally unremarkable. Surely there are plenty of ladies 60+ out there climbing the walls.
em aka nurse ratchet
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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I am pretty sure Mark Hudon at 54 is the oldest solo of the Cap.
Perlman teamed up with another 60 something climber to do the Nose I think. Not positive about that... he is looking to be in the oldest NIAD team but has had partners who were not quite up to it.
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