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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2008 - 01:12am PT
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I read recently in a thread about a couple guys 15 and 16 years old doing the Nose, back in the day,,
So ,a few questions.
1)Who is the youngest person to have gone up El cap?
2) Who is the youngest team to complete an El Cap route?
3) And, how about the youngest person or team to do a first ascent on the Cap?
That would be an interesting piece of history...
These same questions could be applied to the oldest persons that
hold these records.
I wonder if Harding would be in there for the oldest first ascent on El Cap? WOEML.
And just to keep it interesting, how old were you when you climbed El Capitain for the first time?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dave Lane was 15 when he did the Nose in October 1976.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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I did 4 routes at 18 years of age. Not a big deal. There are others that were younger and older. I admire anyone that does El Cap at any age.
Ken
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> 1)Who is the youngest person to have gone up El cap?
[Edit: see post below; Bertrand Roche did it at age 10]
Scott Cory, age 11, up the Nose with Hans Florine. (a few months later, did it in a day with Hans, also at age 11).
http://www.scottcory.com/climbingfacts.htm
> 3) And, how about the youngest person or team to do a first ascent on the Cap?
Austin McNeely, age 12, was on the FA of the Jose Memorial Variation on El Cap.
http://www.rocknclimb.com/jose.html
Old?
Gerry Bloch, age 81, up the Aquarian Wall.
http://pweb.jps.net/~prichins/elcap.htm
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Sean Mitchell and Eric Held were both 16 when they did the Nose together.....back in the 80's......they were on their own;...they didn't have anyone leading the pitches for them.....
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Chris Mc Namara and his brother Morgan did an ascent together when they were somewhere around 16 and 15.
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Transplant
Boulder climber
Tahoe
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I'll be in the Valley this weekend with my daughters, 7 & 3. I'm pretty sure they'll send…
Swapping leads…
Free…
That is if they don't get distracted by s'mores and running around in the meadow.
TR to follow.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I was 18 the first time up in 79.
Can't hold a candle to an 11 yr old!!!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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I think Dave Diegleman (DoubleD), Kurt Reider and Bill Price, got one of the youngest team ascents up to that time of the Nose in 77 or thereabouts.
I was 17 on the Zodiac in 79, and just had turned 19 when we finished the first on ZM in 1981.
I would like to hear of an oldest team, non-guided ascent. There must be a couple of crusty old Chamonix guides who did the route in their 70's, too dignified to make any big deal about it.
I want to do it with Tarbuster when we are in our 80's, by then we will be able to download the beta, and upload the TR from the chips in our heads!
Peter
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Double D
climber
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'twasn't me...our 3 man attempt ended in an unplanned bivy on Stovelegs. Bill and Kurt did the nose in 76(?) when they were 16 & 17 if I remember right.
Re-post of but-bag-bivy
A very young Bill Price on our winter ascent of the Prow when he was 15.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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supposedly a french lad of 9 climbed the nose with his father, a guide.
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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I hate to take away the award from Scott Cory but I did the Nose in '85 with Bertrand Roche, then 10 years old, and his dad Jean Noel. His dad wrote a book about their adventures (in french). Bertrand became the youngest person to climb Everest a few years late at age 17 and did it again later with his wife and a tandem paragliding flight from the top.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dave,
remember that night when, for once, we weren't smoking anything, and the rangers appeared out of the darkness, shut off our tape player, and asked you guys (Bill, Augie, KB, Kurt and you) for note from your parents to prove you were not runaways?
I always though Kurt and Bill were 14 and 15 on their Nose ascent.
I remember that Stove Legs Bivy, that was pretty funny. Augie and I were down there yelling at you.
BTW, I was 18 on the Salathe in 1974.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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How many of these 10, 11 and 12 year olds actually contributed to the ascent though? Hauling some kid up the Nose, or even having them follow the whole route hardly counts.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Swapped leads on the Nose in '72 in five wet and stormy days with Eee-onk-ee's brother, Jim Cameron. Eighteen.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Last time I saw KB was in Tuolomne is the early 80s. If anyone sees her, tell her I said Hi!
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Double D
climber
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Mark re: Rangers...yeah, that was a crack up and talk about lucky timming, huh? (note: I never inhaled though!!!) :)
Tami...interesting point but cheese actually works better than chalk, at least on Middle.
re: "the gorjuss Augie Klein"... damn, send me your phone number and email as the Boy is single now...
re: KB haven't had contact with her for a while, last heard that she was a professor in HI, married with kidlets. She's probably lurking though...POST UP KB!
We were all under 20 when we did the 3rd on PO. Everyone said we were gonna die!
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2008 - 01:54am PT
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One question that remains un answered is, ,,the youngest team to make a first ascent, on the big stone .
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Alan Humphrey was 20 on the FA of High Plains Dripper. Klaus, how old were you then?
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Mark and Tami, My daughter (Sierra)at age 11, wife and myself warmed up on The Nose, than did WFLT. Sierra insisted on doing much of the WFLT free, as she didn't want to be known as a 'jughead' if people learned of her accomplishment...totally her decision. It was a proud moment for this Dad! Cheers, Michael
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I like the posts about wee kidlets relying on the folks for decision making and such. I had turned 18, but definitely had to pull all my leads, and the bag, etc. It is different. So until two kids 10 yrs old do it together, they're out!
Sh*t, you can stick a ten yr old in the haul bag!
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Just did Elbrus with Sierra, and it's great to see her out-pacing her Dad on the slopes...I still get her on skiis going down though! Cheers, Michael
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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I admire all of these young leaders for their courage, drive, and determination to accomplish big goals early in life.
If you're confident in your skills, go for it!
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Danielle Winters
Trad climber
Alaska
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Double D
Nice pic,s of you & Bill on the stove leg bivvy . What ever happened to Bill he was a great climber. In August 76 ( ? ) Me and him gave North american wall a try . I was only 15 years old at the time . I climbed like sh#t and the heat was oppressive so we beat a quick retreat.If he would have had a better partner he would have bagged it for shure!
Keep the photos coming great memories !
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jaystone
Trad climber
EDH, Ca
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"I stand by what I said : I am entirely impressed by the kids of thirty years ago whereas today, kids climbing with their parents is just another kid doing something with their parent(s). It's nice but it is not a big deal.
Cheers, Tami"
I get your point.
However, since most 10 year olds are challenged to dress themselves in the morning and keep track of all their sh*t in general, it's a Big Deal - even if they are not making the decisions.
Curiously, do you have younguns?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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How old were Steve Sutton and Hugh Burton when they did the Nose during Easter break from high school?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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i am humbled by all you doods that fired when you were that young.
at 12, i was whining and bitching about josh rock being too hard. 5.5 on The Clump, in Indian Cove. i am pathetic.
oofa
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Add the ages of the team members together and then divide by the amount of members. Example: 10 year old kid, 35 year old dad, divide by 2 = 22.5. Not impressive in a young team up El Cap kinda way.
At some point it just don't work though.... 10 year old kid, 94 year old man = 52 years, but impressive..... back to the drawing board.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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What was the oldest team to get up a grade VI on El Cap, swapping leads, Geritol shots, and Depends? Well, maybe not Depends.
Guided ascent does not count.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Steve and Hugh were 17 when they did the Nose in June 1970. (Canadian Alpine Journal 1971, page 37)
Tami has two children, one 18, one 16.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I would postulate that parents would never drag a "normal" 10 year old up a big wall. The "can't even dress themselves" argument doesn't really fly in the face of the fact that the kid would have to be trustworthy enough not to do something stupid up there that could get themselves or one of the parents stranded or killed. If the kid isn't that trustworthy, then the parent has no business taking them up there, so I say the kid has to be somewhat above the bell curve in the first place.
I would guess the previous poster can take that as a compliment on their parenting skills and the resulting kid.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Danielle,
> What ever happened to Bill [Price] he was a great climber.
I think he still climbs actively, and lives in the SF bay area. Mike Arechiga has mentioned climbing with him in recent years.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Two questions on youngest in the OP:
1)Who is the youngest person to have gone up El cap?
2) Who is the youngest team to complete an El Cap route?
Both are an accomplishment. A 10 or 11 year old kid 3,000 feet up El Cap is impressive to me.
Youngest team: Bill Price 14 Kurt Reider 15, 1977
from http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
Holy crap. When I was that age, riding my bike to the movie theater was an adventure.
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Danielle Winters
Trad climber
Alaska
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Clint ~ Thanks for the answer its nice to know Bill is still out there . Watching him climb was Poetry in motion. really inspiring!
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jaystone
Trad climber
EDH, Ca
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Well damn, I should be seen as an unfit parent.
Since only a responsible, above the bell curve, 10 year old should be on the rock with their parents, they must also be ready to get out on the streets and drive the family wagon. (read: do everything at high maturity level)
Some kids, like some adults, can step up to an occasion based upon the seriousness, attention, determination, etc required.
My sole opinion, with no intent on changing yours is: a kid, any kid, on the nose is impressive. period. I don't take away anything from it because they are not making adult decisions.
wow.
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Smack
Trad climber
Utah
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I guess the real question would be...who was the youngest person to SOLO el cap? Ditto on the oldest?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The answer to the first question is easy. Royal Robbins was the youngest to solo El Capitan, when he did the Muir Wall in 1968.
Of course, he was also then the only person to have soloed El Cap. :-)
Edit: Robbins was also the oldest to have soloed El Capitan - as of 1968! His 'youngest' record was broken by Peter Haan in 1971.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Ferget the youngin's, they come, they go. Instead, check out the Old Farts. How about our very own Ottawa Doug? The oldest Old Fart to solo the Captain. Now that is RAD! Hell, there was a little chick-ee-poo - half Doug's age - who looked at his abs out in the Curry Village parking lot and declared, "I want to BITE them!" [Video footage available upon request]
And how about Hollywood Hans? He's ancient, and still sending big time!
Old Farts rule.
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
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So,, the youngest up El cap was Betrand Roche. 10 years old (guided)
The youngest team was Bill Price and Kurt Rieder, 14 and 15 years old, on the Nose 1977
That leaves the last question still unanswered.....
The youngest team to complete a first ascent on El Capitain?
Dale Bard and Kauk maybe..?
Or Kroger and ? on the Heart .. just guessing.
I also agree that there is a huge difirrance between a real team ,and a guided climb.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Pete
I am formally requesting video footage.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 10, 2008 - 10:32am PT
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Matt Cox and Yabo (both 13 yrs old) did the Nose in 1.5 days, thus inspiring the successful attempt by Bridwell, Westbay and Long to climb it in a day. Yabo dropped his jumars and half the rack after the Stovelegs, but they didn't bail.
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Danielle Winters
Trad climber
Alaska
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Jul 10, 2008 - 12:41pm PT
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Heck I am having trouble doing the math on that one??. I always thought John y was born in 1956 . Maybe someone else could figure it out better then me. I spent the summer of 76 climbing in the valley and did a few routes with John Y as a matter of fact it took us two days just to get up the Prow on Wash colum. He never mentioned that Nose trip But John wasnt ever much of a Talker as I remember . I am not saying it didnt happen . I cant quit figure the time line on it .Maybee some one could clarify it better for me
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Inspiring! Although I'm 21, I have a 17 yr old power house friend who is starting to get psyched about the big stone. Maybe a young ascent for us is still in the cards.
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Can't help with "the most" category, but Andy Puhvel and I climbed the nose when we were both 16. We didn't haul, just brought a day-pack with water and sleeping bags. I think we topped out in something like 32 hours, slept on camp4. Andy had been up halfdome once and the Zodiac with Larry Zulim previously. I jugged pretty much every pitch wearing tennis shoes. Our parents had no idea what we were doing.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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The last time I did El Cap I had just turned 23.
I put up the Dorn Direct with a 16 year old Tony Yaniro, and he led the crux.
Is Galen Rowell the oldest person to do the NIAD?
(He was 57)
What is the oldest team to do El Cap in a day?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Randy (from a few posts up). I agree that this doesn't sound quite right. Yabo was indeed born in 1956 so he was 13 in 1969. The Bridwell/Long/Westbay NAID was 1975.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I climbed with Matt Cox a bit and he never said anything about climbing El Cap. Hasbro would know. He didn't strike me as a long route kind of guy.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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All I know is Yabo was really good, but he sure could drop sh*t.
He dropped a bunch of my stuff off the shield.
So, that part sounded about right to me, HA!
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krutley
climber
here, now
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May 10, 2010 - 05:39am PT
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Now that I've stepped into the E-fest, I wanted to clarify Bill's and my Nose ascent, in '77, or whenever I was 16. Bill was 15, and the strength (as always) of the team. It was an early clean ascent, pre-Friends. We had sawed-off angles for the pin scars. Whole story some other time.
Bill, Dave and I made an attempt at 15, 17(?) and 15, got stuck on the Legs. I'd let the bag fly off Crescent Ledge, it hit a flake and we lost a gallon or two. In those days we allowed for only 1 1/2 qts/man/day, foolish youth.
We thought we'd hit the ledge on top of the Legs, but I probably slowed us down, we had to bivy. Not planning (well) on the non-ledge bivy, we had only 2 hammocks, and the suggestion from some a-hole in camp 4 that it'd be fine to bivy in 3 butt-bags: one for head, one for shoulders, one for ass, with feet in aiders. My bag was completely soaked, you know the breezes up there, no insulation when you're lying next to granite. I kept my PA's on all night, mostly shivering, coveting Bill above and Diegs below, fast asleep in hammocks.
By pre-dawn i couldn't deal anymore, and whined, "Doesn't anyone have anything extra I could wear?..." Bill looked down and said, "Sure, here's an extra coat." I put it on, hateful and grateful, and the sun came up a couple minutes later.
We rapped down, had to leave a stuck rope, and at the base met a guy who would be rappelling the entire route ("I'm not a climber, I'm a rappeller!"). He picked off our rope the next day. Whatta guy.
Dave, you have all the pictures, all the time. I'll drag out what i have when i get back home.
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