So Cal Obscura

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 527 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 23, 2005 - 11:26am PT
i'd written on ST B4 about the bouldering scattered about pacifico., including the roof problem in mike hoover's movie solo (it was the ending move B4 he summmited)

also NE of the main pacifico crag are some rock fins that look like the needles of s dakota

alder creek- old EE 5.10 face climb. is the area classic.... also the 15' aid/ knifeblade roof crack..where freriks took his grooond fall.... a cool 5.8 dihedreal, plus other routes. was sorta popular in the mid 70's...idle in recent years i bet

near bye are the sandy bottom bouldrs (i gave craig fry wrong directions for his gide- sorry craig) .... used to be better when all the bolder problems landed in sand. flood washed away the sandy landings/ made all the probs 7' higher. still a gem area (i met brett mauer back there working this thin arching 5.12 crack thingie... also some slightly longer cracks downstream / 5.7 free solos

i'd also written on ST about cascade canyon on ontario peak. uplander ed coffer (keith cunning's friend) developed the crag. said the routes were like the ones on middle cathedrals apron. i think he exaggerated, but there must be a ton of 25 year old death bolts and a crag waiting to be re-adopted

p.s. i'd seen slides of some way obscure crag in the middle tajunga accessed off the palmdale cutoff rd....

oh- good glacial erratic (25' hi?) on the mt blady trail 1/2 mile above the sierra club hut.
JMC

Trad climber
So Cal
Dec 23, 2005 - 12:00pm PT
Sewellymon,
I knew you'd be able to fill in some other details. Baldy Bowl boulder -yeah! bouldered a little on that in my randonee boots and running shoes, always wanted to haul a rope up there. Maybe this year...

Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?

More Strawberry Peak - in Strawberry Potrero (below the N. Face - trail goes through here) there is some great bouldering. Watch out for poison oak, though.

Chilao Flats - X15X15 tacked up some aid lines on the largest wall - just follow the streambed down, and you'll get to it. A good place to make your palms sweat. Bouldering never seemed that good to me, but maybe I was missin' something. There looks like more good rock further downstream, probably worth a hike.

-John Canby
Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Dec 23, 2005 - 12:01pm PT
anyone ever been to purple stones ? off mulholland somewhere i think......

i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Ca
Dec 23, 2005 - 12:59pm PT
Yeah, I've climbed at Purple Stones. Park just out of town (towards the beach) and walk down to the creek. Parking is kinda iffy though (maybe illegal now). Hard, thin, edgy problems are the norm.
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
Dec 23, 2005 - 04:47pm PT
Bill Elevenballs knows all the beta for purple stones.
And, Mike Waugh.
There are a few places to park.
10b4me

Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
Dec 23, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?
The former Meadows cg in the Chilao area

i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?

I think all the sport climbers will start bolting the boulder problems at HF.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 23, 2005 - 09:33pm PT
oh- good glacial erratic (25' hi?) on the mt blady trail 1/2 mile above the sierra club hut.

I wondered when someone was going to bring that one up.
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Dec 24, 2005 - 12:25am PT
WTF

if it were all that, people would climb there

instead, all the rock is covered in cobwebs. so much for your secret spot
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Dec 24, 2005 - 11:47am PT
hey dickwad..

IF willy is closed, those chosspiles are NOT going to satisfy the bolt clipping masses.

now go blow me. a little more to the left, please?
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 24, 2005 - 03:02pm PT
Hey John,

I recall the Alder Creek crags are accessed via the S. side of Chilao (starting at one of the Silver Moc trail junctions). Email me a jpg of a topo map and I could give you the 411.

You wrote “There's a dirt road that connects Chilao Flats with Mt Hillyer/Sulfur Springs Road…TR routes on the hillside just below.”- is that B4 or after the fire station?

Another place reputed to have rock that could be sportclimbable is the Piru Creek drainage. I’ve not seen it with my own eyes, tho.

The rock I DID see (from an airplane) is a chaparral protected swath of mountain top in the Los Padres front range. Looked like many acres of little crags and boulders somewhat reminiscent of the Purple Stones, but 100 times more rock. The stone was definitely purple. From a distance, looked more like the Pinnacles (i.e. a conglomerate) versus the sandstone found on Pine Mt. perhaps 20 miles to the NW. So it might be choss, but I never hoofed up there to check it out.

Batrock- I think lots of us tried to find climbable rock on Mt Waterman. Me and Lloads trekked up to the same crags everybody else visited and declared it a waste without even shoeing up (though we did find some swag… nuts and biners…..).

Cracko- don’t be looking longingly at anything on Tejon property. They catch you, they throw the book at you. Pretty wild that they’ve got 400 square miles of private property smack in the middle of So Cal. What do you figure it’s value now? 25 billion dollars?

It’s almost a crime that a mountain range as big as the San Gabriels has so little climbable rock. Even the San Bernardinos has about 10 times the climbable rock (or is it 30 x) when you consider the wealth of little granite crags scattered throughout that range.

It’s fun to read about people’s efforts to find rock where none exists.

Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Dec 24, 2005 - 04:07pm PT
wow if we get into the SB's then we're talking literally dozens of pristine crags.....many obscure

Some fav's : Holcomb Valley - awesome bolt clipping on Jtree like rock

Arctic temple : Beautiful long moderate cracks

The Narrows : A beautiful face next to an awesome swimming hole...

SB's are amazing and the bivy's are easy and freindly
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2005 - 04:44pm PT
For those wondering what lies in th ePiru drainage go to
http://www.sierraphotography.com/creeking/ Go to list of runs and click on Piru Creek Frenchmans Flat to Lake Piru. Scroll down to the slide show.

All of my experience with Piru and Sespe has been kayaking and not climbing. The inner gorge of Sespe Creek has the biggest potential, especialy for bouldering but it is way deep in there. Tar Creek is nothing compared to what lies upstream.

For Sespe pics check out

http://www.ptone.com/Kayak/Sespe2/

http://www.cacreeks.com/sespe.htm
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Calif
Dec 26, 2005 - 10:55am PT
Nellus canyon has access problems for 15 years. There is a very unfriendly landowner who refused to allow access to the rock. He only owns some of the climbable rock but most of the best routes are on his property. I have been escorted off the property before but there is a 150' .11a with 17 bolts there called Cliptomaniac there on superb rock. It is on the West face of the middle formation. You access it from a gully on the west side, from the notch between the North and middle formations. On the North face of the middle formation. there are 2 routes. Airloom- .11d ,12 bolts and Falcon's Col- .11a 8 or 9 bolts. There are about 40 or 45 routes at Nellus but only a dozen or so are truly good. Want more info? Write me here & I'll give you the 411.

There is another crag(The Electromagnetic Rocks) a few miles to the East of Nellus near the Shambala Preserve. A 20 minute uphill slog gains the ridge that has the best 5.11 crack in LA County, bring gear 3/4" to 3" with extra 1 - 2" pro. It's 70 feet long and the rock is great. More potential for hard routes are here for motivated climbers capable of 5.13 routes.

Purple Stones- This superb area has seen few visitors in recent years with the popularity of the sport climbing at Malibu & Echo but has the best quality stone in the Santa Monicas. There is a problem there I did called Ultraviolet which is perhaps the hardest boulder problem I've ever done (V9?). It has two one finger edges a nickle wide each you must lanuch a huge dyno from. I've never seen anybody else ever stick that move, which is followed by bold 5.11 to the top over a career ending landing. Good stuff!

Another area worthy of mention is Lake Los Angeles(AKA: No Jack City). There are some nice rocks here on Josh-like Monzonite. My friends & I called the place No Jack City, since when we went there there would be no "Jack" to be seen or heard! Highlights include Flycatcher- .10d 7 bolts, on the western slopes,and Ham-Don-Boo .12 b 3 bolts on an overhanging wall facing the parking area, and Old Folks Dome with 3 routes in the 5.10c to 5.11 b/c range. Lots of bouldering all over the place. There are more routes than I've listed but time & space restricts this to a few tidbits. This is a nice, warm place with more potential for new routes.

Other Obscurites in Socal would have to include the Batcave on Castle Peak in West Hills/Canoga Park. 10 routes from 10.b to .13 c on a conglomerate sandstone that has a depositional veneer of limestone with tufas and colonettes almost like real limestone. Not bad for being 15 minutes from Valley Circle & Vanowen.

Levy
dave

climber
Earth
Dec 26, 2005 - 12:14pm PT
Howz bout' S.D.? Dinosaur Valley, El Cajon wall (5 pitch sport routes, though many short pitches), Valley of the Moon (Dont do my proj. I'll be back, you know who you are) Lowenbrau Pinnacle (worth a day on perfect valley esque granite, 100' tall with amazing views and a true summit.) And then at Sunset Cliffs there is a sea stack called "Bird Sh#t Rock" and every X-Mas a X-mas tree appears on it's summit, so there has to be a way up that thing but it aint gonna be dry or easy. Beirut Boulders for some true so-cal urban bouldering atmosphere, good for a chuckle or two. Also Corte Madera, 5 pitch trad routes and tons of sport climbing on surrounding domes and faces, you may check with the F.S., cuz I think in Feb. sections close for the peregrine falcons. S.D. guys developing sport climbing there (Corte Madera) and at Valley Of the Moon at an alarming rate. FWIW you need 4x4 to access all of these areas as East county S.D. is not developed like East L.A., it is wild out there, help is probably available but it wont come quick.
shakey legs

Trad climber
san diego ca
Dec 26, 2005 - 03:01pm PT
Dave good call on Corte Madera tough to get to however, big exposed and quality rock. There is a two pitch 5.9 off width that you rap into. Do you know what it is called?
Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Dec 26, 2005 - 07:41pm PT
has anyone ever climbed at Mormon rocks off Hwy. 15 on the way to wrightwood . the rock looks awesome but it could just be a mirage of choss , i can't tell . they always shoot lame SUV ads there...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Dec 27, 2005 - 01:05am PT
Hart Park (in Orange) for realz!!!

The amphitheatre light socket traverse
The pool archway
The retaining wall behind the bathrooms (Jean Fradette would do that traverse in his cowboy boots!!- that guy deserves credit for keeping me climbing. Nicest guy in the OC.)

The tile glue ups (my first tendonitis experience, thx Lou ;))
The ceramic glue ups continuation my bro Tim and I put up that he made in a ceramics class in high school. Back in the day when we got the real Cal Trans type 'bots buttons' epoxy.

57 Freeway traverse and up routes

Good times spending lazy summer afternoons in the shade down there traversing over sand landings. Another Louie creation with the help of Jeff Archer and Jeff Jarvi. Jarvi made this cool aluminum machined rings you had to pull on. Soo slippery. I remember adding an extension that made the whole traverse go some 200' total. Then one day cal trans chopped the traverse. To this day I wish I had something like that up here in Nor Cal.

Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Dec 27, 2005 - 12:20pm PT
Dapper Dan,

I've played around at Mormon Rocks thinking the same as you. Total Choss!! Some rescue outfit uses it for rappelling training. That's about all it's good for.
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Dec 27, 2005 - 12:23pm PT
Used to climb at Corde Madera years ago when I lived in San Diego. Did a climb called Crap Duster which was OK, but really showed the exposure on this nice chunk of rock. Remember getting completely dehydrated on the hike out. Bring plenty of water cause there's nothing out there.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 27, 2005 - 12:45pm PT
Purple Stones (AKA the Purple Veins) were even better B4 one of the big floods came through.

Who first discovered the area? I seem to recall it was Dave Katz? Or was it Matt and Levy? There was fun scene back in Fall of ’81. The Stony Point regulars started going there every afternoon. Our own secret spot for awhile. Good times.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 527 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta