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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Dec 23, 2005 - 12:00pm PT
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Sewellymon,
I knew you'd be able to fill in some other details. Baldy Bowl boulder -yeah! bouldered a little on that in my randonee boots and running shoes, always wanted to haul a rope up there. Maybe this year...
Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?
More Strawberry Peak - in Strawberry Potrero (below the N. Face - trail goes through here) there is some great bouldering. Watch out for poison oak, though.
Chilao Flats - X15X15 tacked up some aid lines on the largest wall - just follow the streambed down, and you'll get to it. A good place to make your palms sweat. Bouldering never seemed that good to me, but maybe I was missin' something. There looks like more good rock further downstream, probably worth a hike.
-John Canby
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Dapper Dan
climber
The OC
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Dec 23, 2005 - 12:01pm PT
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anyone ever been to purple stones ? off mulholland somewhere i think......
i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Dec 23, 2005 - 12:59pm PT
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Yeah, I've climbed at Purple Stones. Park just out of town (towards the beach) and walk down to the creek. Parking is kinda iffy though (maybe illegal now). Hard, thin, edgy problems are the norm.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 23, 2005 - 04:47pm PT
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Bill Elevenballs knows all the beta for purple stones.
And, Mike Waugh.
There are a few places to park.
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10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
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Dec 23, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
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Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?
The former Meadows cg in the Chilao area
i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?
I think all the sport climbers will start bolting the boulder problems at HF.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 23, 2005 - 09:33pm PT
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oh- good glacial erratic (25' hi?) on the mt blady trail 1/2 mile above the sierra club hut.
I wondered when someone was going to bring that one up.
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Dapper Dan
climber
The OC
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Dec 24, 2005 - 04:07pm PT
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wow if we get into the SB's then we're talking literally dozens of pristine crags.....many obscure
Some fav's : Holcomb Valley - awesome bolt clipping on Jtree like rock
Arctic temple : Beautiful long moderate cracks
The Narrows : A beautiful face next to an awesome swimming hole...
SB's are amazing and the bivy's are easy and freindly
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2005 - 04:44pm PT
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For those wondering what lies in th ePiru drainage go to
http://www.sierraphotography.com/creeking/ Go to list of runs and click on Piru Creek Frenchmans Flat to Lake Piru. Scroll down to the slide show.
All of my experience with Piru and Sespe has been kayaking and not climbing. The inner gorge of Sespe Creek has the biggest potential, especialy for bouldering but it is way deep in there. Tar Creek is nothing compared to what lies upstream.
For Sespe pics check out
http://www.ptone.com/Kayak/Sespe2/
http://www.cacreeks.com/sespe.htm
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Dec 26, 2005 - 10:55am PT
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Nellus canyon has access problems for 15 years. There is a very unfriendly landowner who refused to allow access to the rock. He only owns some of the climbable rock but most of the best routes are on his property. I have been escorted off the property before but there is a 150' .11a with 17 bolts there called Cliptomaniac there on superb rock. It is on the West face of the middle formation. You access it from a gully on the west side, from the notch between the North and middle formations. On the North face of the middle formation. there are 2 routes. Airloom- .11d ,12 bolts and Falcon's Col- .11a 8 or 9 bolts. There are about 40 or 45 routes at Nellus but only a dozen or so are truly good. Want more info? Write me here & I'll give you the 411.
There is another crag(The Electromagnetic Rocks) a few miles to the East of Nellus near the Shambala Preserve. A 20 minute uphill slog gains the ridge that has the best 5.11 crack in LA County, bring gear 3/4" to 3" with extra 1 - 2" pro. It's 70 feet long and the rock is great. More potential for hard routes are here for motivated climbers capable of 5.13 routes.
Purple Stones- This superb area has seen few visitors in recent years with the popularity of the sport climbing at Malibu & Echo but has the best quality stone in the Santa Monicas. There is a problem there I did called Ultraviolet which is perhaps the hardest boulder problem I've ever done (V9?). It has two one finger edges a nickle wide each you must lanuch a huge dyno from. I've never seen anybody else ever stick that move, which is followed by bold 5.11 to the top over a career ending landing. Good stuff!
Another area worthy of mention is Lake Los Angeles(AKA: No Jack City). There are some nice rocks here on Josh-like Monzonite. My friends & I called the place No Jack City, since when we went there there would be no "Jack" to be seen or heard! Highlights include Flycatcher- .10d 7 bolts, on the western slopes,and Ham-Don-Boo .12 b 3 bolts on an overhanging wall facing the parking area, and Old Folks Dome with 3 routes in the 5.10c to 5.11 b/c range. Lots of bouldering all over the place. There are more routes than I've listed but time & space restricts this to a few tidbits. This is a nice, warm place with more potential for new routes.
Other Obscurites in Socal would have to include the Batcave on Castle Peak in West Hills/Canoga Park. 10 routes from 10.b to .13 c on a conglomerate sandstone that has a depositional veneer of limestone with tufas and colonettes almost like real limestone. Not bad for being 15 minutes from Valley Circle & Vanowen.
Levy
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shakey legs
Trad climber
san diego ca
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Dec 26, 2005 - 03:01pm PT
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Dave good call on Corte Madera tough to get to however, big exposed and quality rock. There is a two pitch 5.9 off width that you rap into. Do you know what it is called?
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Dapper Dan
climber
The OC
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Dec 26, 2005 - 07:41pm PT
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has anyone ever climbed at Mormon rocks off Hwy. 15 on the way to wrightwood . the rock looks awesome but it could just be a mirage of choss , i can't tell . they always shoot lame SUV ads there...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Dec 27, 2005 - 01:05am PT
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Hart Park (in Orange) for realz!!!
The amphitheatre light socket traverse
The pool archway
The retaining wall behind the bathrooms (Jean Fradette would do that traverse in his cowboy boots!!- that guy deserves credit for keeping me climbing. Nicest guy in the OC.)
The tile glue ups (my first tendonitis experience, thx Lou ;))
The ceramic glue ups continuation my bro Tim and I put up that he made in a ceramics class in high school. Back in the day when we got the real Cal Trans type 'bots buttons' epoxy.
57 Freeway traverse and up routes
Good times spending lazy summer afternoons in the shade down there traversing over sand landings. Another Louie creation with the help of Jeff Archer and Jeff Jarvi. Jarvi made this cool aluminum machined rings you had to pull on. Soo slippery. I remember adding an extension that made the whole traverse go some 200' total. Then one day cal trans chopped the traverse. To this day I wish I had something like that up here in Nor Cal.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Dec 27, 2005 - 12:20pm PT
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Dapper Dan,
I've played around at Mormon Rocks thinking the same as you. Total Choss!! Some rescue outfit uses it for rappelling training. That's about all it's good for.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Dec 27, 2005 - 12:23pm PT
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Used to climb at Corde Madera years ago when I lived in San Diego. Did a climb called Crap Duster which was OK, but really showed the exposure on this nice chunk of rock. Remember getting completely dehydrated on the hike out. Bring plenty of water cause there's nothing out there.
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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in masters of stone 3 there is a segment with some dudes doing some urban climbing here in LA . included is a gnarly looking roof traverse in a storm drain and some sport pulling on what looks to be a freeway overpass support pillar . anyone know if the artificial stuff still exists ? and yea the stuff at Hart park sucks....
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Checked out Nellus/Three Sisters on Saturday - ran in via the PCT trail off of Soledad Cyn. Man, that's a tough place to poach - access is tough (SCE property on the East, ranch on the right), lot of activity at the ranch. I ran out on semi-private dirt roads due south - road is gated off, so you wouldn't be able to drive in. Requires serious motivation to climb there. Rock looks cool though...
On Sunday, climbed at another place fading into obscurity - the Sport Boulder by Big Rock. There was a little chalk on the start of the 11a arete, but that was it. I think the quarry has taken away any traffic from this 4-bolt-high wonder.
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Anybody ever climb at Big rock at Perris lake? Nice place to take kids or your new girlfriend.
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Yo JMC i was at big rock yesterday , where is the sport boulder in relation to the main wall ? is it any good ? is it a pain to get to ? I've never seen the lake so low......
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Dapper Dan,
Climbed at Big Rock yesterday, as well.
Sport Boulder is not hard to get to - About 1 mile west of the Big Rock/park turnoff, there is turnoff (same side as Big Rock), and a short (2-300 yd) road that ends in a turnaround/circle. The sport boulder is directly uphill: a 5-10 min. hike. Easy bushwacking, no trail. Large granite boulder with funky dark inclusions.
For more Big Rock area stuff, just uphill of Big Rock, on the west side, there is a large boulder in the canyon with a handful of bolted routes on it, 2-5 minute hike to this one. I know there's even more miscellany in the area, but that's all I've been to.
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jamatt
Social climber
Asheville, NC
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huasna
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