So Cal Obscura

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Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2005 - 02:01am PT
Way back when, I used to climb at a place called Mt Pacifico. I am sure some will remember the spot. Put up a few runout bolt routes but mostly climbed whatever would accept pro. I remember running into a bunch of rattlesnakes there. Before I had my drivers liscence I had to con friends into driving up there. If they didn't have a 4x4 the trip usualy involved a flat tire or a hole in the oil pan, fixes with a pine branch shoved in the hole.

Another spot that I climbed once was Strawberry Peaks North Face. With a copy of Mendenhalls 1935 topo in hand we did a route called Strawberry Roam. Loose rock, rockfall and ice is all I remember from the climb. We did it on New years Day.

Anyone else have some obscure areas in So Cal they remember from there youth?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Ca
Dec 22, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
While I never did routes at Pacifico, I did boulder there a few times. Spectacular views!

I remember in about 1975 we hiked down to this absolute choss pile off Angeles Crest Hwy and looked at a few poorly placed bolts. Turns out to have become a very popular place once 3/8" bolts showed up. Too bad it is going to get closed because of some frog.
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Dec 22, 2005 - 01:57pm PT
Having moved to the Antelope Valley from San Diego many years ago, I know all about So Cal Obscura !! Williamson, Pacifica, and a host of other boulder piles in the San Gabriels. I still climb from time to time at Devil's Punchbowl. It's the freakiest rock I've ever encountered....pebbles loosely afixed to granulated sugar!! What is funny is the area has been well developed in recent years and there are actually some decent routes. Still, I prefer taking the extra two hours and heading for JTree or the Needles. Has anybody ever checked out the large granite boulders in the rolling hills Southeast of Bakersfield ?? I believe it's Tejon Ranch property. Looks really good!
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Dec 22, 2005 - 04:18pm PT
just outside the trunnels 2 miles past williamson on hwy 2 has a few loose 5.9 to 5 12 sport routes i've climbed.

Texas canyon (in the socal quide) actually has a fun and long
5.11a not listed in the quide. and other long routes on the opposing boulder

Horse flats is a great bouldering area in the angeles forest.
a couple of hard free routes 2 miles up the trail on an 80ft granite face if you know where to look.

i heard Robbins/Chouinard put up lines at pacifico. i found some ancient hangers last time there.
beautiful setting and clean granite but short routes. worth the 2 mile dirtroad 1/2 mile walk-in if you haven't yet been. IMO

Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 04:25pm PT
My dad took me to Pacifico when I was a kid. He climbed there back in the early 60's He also climbed Williamson back then too. He told me the only thing they climbed back then was the giant chimmney. I have some old prints of my dad rappeling the Waterfall Wall in the 60's.

I know the wall at Horseflats. Counted 8 rattlesnakes at the base of that wall one morning. Freaked me out. Was belaying my partner and looked down at my feet and saw one, then started looking around and they were all over. The sun was warmoing the rocks and they were coming out to sun themselves.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Ca
Dec 22, 2005 - 05:04pm PT
There is also Nellis Canyon but we aren't supposed to talk about it. I am not even sure how the access is at this point. It's pretty strange to climb on the rocks imbedded in the rock and not actually to touch the rock itself because it is too soft. Levy would be the one to talk about it though.
JMC

Trad climber
So Cal
Dec 22, 2005 - 05:55pm PT
Nellis Cyn. associated with Nellis AFB?

Kevin, thanks for the Strawberry Peak topo & route info - haven't gotten up there yet, but looking forward to an exciting time. Pacifico is a wild place - first time I ever placed gear on lead. There's a dirt road that connects Chilao Flats with Mt Hillyer/Sulfur Springs Road - there are some TR routes on the hillside just below.

Also, is there anything in the upper reaches of Big Tujunga Cyn?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 06:13pm PT
Big Tujunga is a interesting place. I have kayaked from Camp Colby down through the Narrows to just above the resivoir several times. I have noticed that the rock down near river level is pretty solid although very polished, routes could go well over 150'. There are probably some good aid lines down in the Narrows but the higher you get the worse the rock gets. Still a fun hike and an even better in a kayak.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Ca
Dec 22, 2005 - 06:41pm PT
Not Nellis AFB. It's off Angeles Forest iirc how to get there. You get a 2 second glimpse from the northbound 14.

There is of course some good climbing in the desert too. Most is out towards Lucerne.
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
Dec 22, 2005 - 06:43pm PT
Pacifico first in '74 for me. It's between Angeles Crest and Angeles Forest Highways.

Arroyo Seco, boulders.
Millard Canyon Aid route est by Lynn Kroll, 1969?

Freeway Cracks at Arcadia/Monrovia border eastbound 210 exit Huntington, take the next three rights to under the freeway, hands to fingers, nasty hard, 12 + but still cake for Brett from the couch.

Various temporary Ice Climbs in the Angelus Forest.
Santa Suzana Pass
"Afrika"
From the very old original Vogel bouldering Guidebook there are several areas including the beach, lIttle Corona Del Mar.
Chilao Flats, tr and bouldering, great beginner/1st dayer hang in the summer.
Mt. Rooobidough : ) (sorry no french)
Big Rock- Has anyone repeated "no hope without rope" since Grant Carlson?
20 minutes from woodson there is a 120 ft clean dead verticle to overhanging wall, on private land. sssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhh!
Bouldering in the "meadows" south of Idyllwild
Kong Boulder
Purple Stones
Malibu Canyon- planet of the apes wall
Point Dume
El Matador
Sespe Creek, a real pile
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Dec 22, 2005 - 06:47pm PT
camp colby to the resivour in a kayak?

hats off dude.
how the hell did you make it through monkey canyon and the 30 foot falls shortly thereafter?
shame what the gangs did to the walls up there. spaypaint on trees and rocks, WTF?
used to be a great place to get naked, cliffdive and ponder ones youth.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 08:19pm PT
Pud,

I have run everything including the falls at Monkey Canyon. The 30' falls downstream is a little more difficult and I have not worked up the nerve to run that yet. Down in the Narrows below the big bridge is another BIG falls that I portage on the right but I am sure some boater with bigger balls than mine would give it a go. It is a shame about the graffiti. When kayaking on the East and West Fork of the San Gabriel River I have actualy seen bangers spray painting the rocks as we flaoted by. If I had more than a lifevest on for protection I may have said something. Los Angeles Ghetto boating at it's finest.
10b4me

Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
Dec 22, 2005 - 08:58pm PT
Robbins did put up routes at Pacifico back in the day.
I did my first aid climb there a few years ago.
that's a fun mtn bike ride from Chilao to Pacifico.
re: snakes at horse flats. yeah, I've seen lots of 'em.
most memorable trip was on the Y crack. after topping out, another dude climbs it doing some jams. next thing you know is he says something is moving in the crack. all of a sudden he whips his hand out of the crack and he's got hold of a rattler,
flings into the nearest tree. pretty awesome.

anybody here climb at Alder Creek? Tobin put some routes there back in the day. That rock is super polished.
Chaz

Trad climber
So. Cal.
Dec 22, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
When I was Rajmit's age we pushed through the brush up-hill from Big Rock and found an overhanging arching crack with some fresh piton scars, threw a top-rope over and fooled around on it. That same year we did the same thing at Riverside Quarry. Too loose and dangerous for our tastes, plus too much of a trash dump. Now I see there is a guide-book of Riv-Quar for sale. I wonder if it's cleaned up any in the last 23 years. I doubt it.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 09:43pm PT
Nellis? I think I know the crag. Driving up the 14 toward Acton you get quick glimpse of it off to the right. Looks huge from the 14. Never been there but I am sure my wife is tired of me telling her I need to go check that out someday.

Alder Creek is a tributary of Big T. right? I have boated some of that and noticed some rock down in that drainage when up on Pacifico.

Sespe Creek has some huge stuff way down in the gorge miles from nowhere. If anyone is interested I have some shots of when I rafted it from Lions Camp to Filmore this last spring. There has to be the biggest boulders in California down in there. We spent 4 days making the descent. I can email some shots, dont know how to post pics on this board.

I also did a few solo bolt routes on some crags on Hwy 2 just below Mt Waterman on the ridge to your right as you head up to the hairpins just below Waterman. Not worth the effort to hike to though.
Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Dec 23, 2005 - 12:07am PT
might not be too obscure since a certain blond flamboyant soloist ws recently filmed there , but it's called tic rock . its near santa monica and it has a few decent routes... the approach is great , rock quality was pretty good . dogs of war.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2005 - 12:53am PT
I have noticed the NFS is getting lazy with opening the Pacifico Rd. The last few years it has been closed for much of the year. In the summer due to fire danger and then in the winter due to snow. I think it's just easier for them to keep it closed and put up with a few unhappy climbers.
One of my favorite climbs on Pacifico is straight up the main face veering to the left and out a small roof protected by giant chickenheads. Up and to the right of the main face is a shallow dihedral with that takes some small pro and goes over a short overhang near the top. Between those two is a climb that ascends a pillar starting in a chimney then traversing out onto the pillar and climbing on sparse pro to the top.
I gotta get back up there. There are so many fun climbs up there and probably a few more to be discoverd or rediscovered.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 23, 2005 - 01:48am PT
Lucerne Limestone,Section 6,Margeritiville,DMZ Giant Rock,Guadalupe Reservoir Nor Cal,Conway Summit,Copper Mt.Quarry UCSC.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Dec 23, 2005 - 03:05am PT
Guadalupe! hahahaha!

Site of some of my early toproping antics. Still have fond memories of that little rock. We'd hit it up after the morning sesh at pleasure point or the hook.
JMC

Trad climber
So Cal
Dec 23, 2005 - 10:53am PT
The Pacifico Road has a minor wash-out at the east end (near Horse Flats) - consequently, gate is shut at both ends. The Forest Circus has no scheduled repair date.
-John
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 23, 2005 - 11:26am PT
i'd written on ST B4 about the bouldering scattered about pacifico., including the roof problem in mike hoover's movie solo (it was the ending move B4 he summmited)

also NE of the main pacifico crag are some rock fins that look like the needles of s dakota

alder creek- old EE 5.10 face climb. is the area classic.... also the 15' aid/ knifeblade roof crack..where freriks took his grooond fall.... a cool 5.8 dihedreal, plus other routes. was sorta popular in the mid 70's...idle in recent years i bet

near bye are the sandy bottom bouldrs (i gave craig fry wrong directions for his gide- sorry craig) .... used to be better when all the bolder problems landed in sand. flood washed away the sandy landings/ made all the probs 7' higher. still a gem area (i met brett mauer back there working this thin arching 5.12 crack thingie... also some slightly longer cracks downstream / 5.7 free solos

i'd also written on ST about cascade canyon on ontario peak. uplander ed coffer (keith cunning's friend) developed the crag. said the routes were like the ones on middle cathedrals apron. i think he exaggerated, but there must be a ton of 25 year old death bolts and a crag waiting to be re-adopted

p.s. i'd seen slides of some way obscure crag in the middle tajunga accessed off the palmdale cutoff rd....

oh- good glacial erratic (25' hi?) on the mt blady trail 1/2 mile above the sierra club hut.
JMC

Trad climber
So Cal
Dec 23, 2005 - 12:00pm PT
Sewellymon,
I knew you'd be able to fill in some other details. Baldy Bowl boulder -yeah! bouldered a little on that in my randonee boots and running shoes, always wanted to haul a rope up there. Maybe this year...

Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?

More Strawberry Peak - in Strawberry Potrero (below the N. Face - trail goes through here) there is some great bouldering. Watch out for poison oak, though.

Chilao Flats - X15X15 tacked up some aid lines on the largest wall - just follow the streambed down, and you'll get to it. A good place to make your palms sweat. Bouldering never seemed that good to me, but maybe I was missin' something. There looks like more good rock further downstream, probably worth a hike.

-John Canby
Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Dec 23, 2005 - 12:01pm PT
anyone ever been to purple stones ? off mulholland somewhere i think......

i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Ca
Dec 23, 2005 - 12:59pm PT
Yeah, I've climbed at Purple Stones. Park just out of town (towards the beach) and walk down to the creek. Parking is kinda iffy though (maybe illegal now). Hard, thin, edgy problems are the norm.
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
Dec 23, 2005 - 04:47pm PT
Bill Elevenballs knows all the beta for purple stones.
And, Mike Waugh.
There are a few places to park.
10b4me

Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
Dec 23, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?
The former Meadows cg in the Chilao area

i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?

I think all the sport climbers will start bolting the boulder problems at HF.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 23, 2005 - 09:33pm PT
oh- good glacial erratic (25' hi?) on the mt blady trail 1/2 mile above the sierra club hut.

I wondered when someone was going to bring that one up.
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Dec 24, 2005 - 12:25am PT
WTF

if it were all that, people would climb there

instead, all the rock is covered in cobwebs. so much for your secret spot
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Dec 24, 2005 - 11:47am PT
hey dickwad..

IF willy is closed, those chosspiles are NOT going to satisfy the bolt clipping masses.

now go blow me. a little more to the left, please?
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 24, 2005 - 03:02pm PT
Hey John,

I recall the Alder Creek crags are accessed via the S. side of Chilao (starting at one of the Silver Moc trail junctions). Email me a jpg of a topo map and I could give you the 411.

You wrote “There's a dirt road that connects Chilao Flats with Mt Hillyer/Sulfur Springs Road…TR routes on the hillside just below.”- is that B4 or after the fire station?

Another place reputed to have rock that could be sportclimbable is the Piru Creek drainage. I’ve not seen it with my own eyes, tho.

The rock I DID see (from an airplane) is a chaparral protected swath of mountain top in the Los Padres front range. Looked like many acres of little crags and boulders somewhat reminiscent of the Purple Stones, but 100 times more rock. The stone was definitely purple. From a distance, looked more like the Pinnacles (i.e. a conglomerate) versus the sandstone found on Pine Mt. perhaps 20 miles to the NW. So it might be choss, but I never hoofed up there to check it out.

Batrock- I think lots of us tried to find climbable rock on Mt Waterman. Me and Lloads trekked up to the same crags everybody else visited and declared it a waste without even shoeing up (though we did find some swag… nuts and biners…..).

Cracko- don’t be looking longingly at anything on Tejon property. They catch you, they throw the book at you. Pretty wild that they’ve got 400 square miles of private property smack in the middle of So Cal. What do you figure it’s value now? 25 billion dollars?

It’s almost a crime that a mountain range as big as the San Gabriels has so little climbable rock. Even the San Bernardinos has about 10 times the climbable rock (or is it 30 x) when you consider the wealth of little granite crags scattered throughout that range.

It’s fun to read about people’s efforts to find rock where none exists.

Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Dec 24, 2005 - 04:07pm PT
wow if we get into the SB's then we're talking literally dozens of pristine crags.....many obscure

Some fav's : Holcomb Valley - awesome bolt clipping on Jtree like rock

Arctic temple : Beautiful long moderate cracks

The Narrows : A beautiful face next to an awesome swimming hole...

SB's are amazing and the bivy's are easy and freindly
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2005 - 04:44pm PT
For those wondering what lies in th ePiru drainage go to
http://www.sierraphotography.com/creeking/ Go to list of runs and click on Piru Creek Frenchmans Flat to Lake Piru. Scroll down to the slide show.

All of my experience with Piru and Sespe has been kayaking and not climbing. The inner gorge of Sespe Creek has the biggest potential, especialy for bouldering but it is way deep in there. Tar Creek is nothing compared to what lies upstream.

For Sespe pics check out

http://www.ptone.com/Kayak/Sespe2/

http://www.cacreeks.com/sespe.htm
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Calif
Dec 26, 2005 - 10:55am PT
Nellus canyon has access problems for 15 years. There is a very unfriendly landowner who refused to allow access to the rock. He only owns some of the climbable rock but most of the best routes are on his property. I have been escorted off the property before but there is a 150' .11a with 17 bolts there called Cliptomaniac there on superb rock. It is on the West face of the middle formation. You access it from a gully on the west side, from the notch between the North and middle formations. On the North face of the middle formation. there are 2 routes. Airloom- .11d ,12 bolts and Falcon's Col- .11a 8 or 9 bolts. There are about 40 or 45 routes at Nellus but only a dozen or so are truly good. Want more info? Write me here & I'll give you the 411.

There is another crag(The Electromagnetic Rocks) a few miles to the East of Nellus near the Shambala Preserve. A 20 minute uphill slog gains the ridge that has the best 5.11 crack in LA County, bring gear 3/4" to 3" with extra 1 - 2" pro. It's 70 feet long and the rock is great. More potential for hard routes are here for motivated climbers capable of 5.13 routes.

Purple Stones- This superb area has seen few visitors in recent years with the popularity of the sport climbing at Malibu & Echo but has the best quality stone in the Santa Monicas. There is a problem there I did called Ultraviolet which is perhaps the hardest boulder problem I've ever done (V9?). It has two one finger edges a nickle wide each you must lanuch a huge dyno from. I've never seen anybody else ever stick that move, which is followed by bold 5.11 to the top over a career ending landing. Good stuff!

Another area worthy of mention is Lake Los Angeles(AKA: No Jack City). There are some nice rocks here on Josh-like Monzonite. My friends & I called the place No Jack City, since when we went there there would be no "Jack" to be seen or heard! Highlights include Flycatcher- .10d 7 bolts, on the western slopes,and Ham-Don-Boo .12 b 3 bolts on an overhanging wall facing the parking area, and Old Folks Dome with 3 routes in the 5.10c to 5.11 b/c range. Lots of bouldering all over the place. There are more routes than I've listed but time & space restricts this to a few tidbits. This is a nice, warm place with more potential for new routes.

Other Obscurites in Socal would have to include the Batcave on Castle Peak in West Hills/Canoga Park. 10 routes from 10.b to .13 c on a conglomerate sandstone that has a depositional veneer of limestone with tufas and colonettes almost like real limestone. Not bad for being 15 minutes from Valley Circle & Vanowen.

Levy
dave

climber
Earth
Dec 26, 2005 - 12:14pm PT
Howz bout' S.D.? Dinosaur Valley, El Cajon wall (5 pitch sport routes, though many short pitches), Valley of the Moon (Dont do my proj. I'll be back, you know who you are) Lowenbrau Pinnacle (worth a day on perfect valley esque granite, 100' tall with amazing views and a true summit.) And then at Sunset Cliffs there is a sea stack called "Bird Sh#t Rock" and every X-Mas a X-mas tree appears on it's summit, so there has to be a way up that thing but it aint gonna be dry or easy. Beirut Boulders for some true so-cal urban bouldering atmosphere, good for a chuckle or two. Also Corte Madera, 5 pitch trad routes and tons of sport climbing on surrounding domes and faces, you may check with the F.S., cuz I think in Feb. sections close for the peregrine falcons. S.D. guys developing sport climbing there (Corte Madera) and at Valley Of the Moon at an alarming rate. FWIW you need 4x4 to access all of these areas as East county S.D. is not developed like East L.A., it is wild out there, help is probably available but it wont come quick.
shakey legs

Trad climber
san diego ca
Dec 26, 2005 - 03:01pm PT
Dave good call on Corte Madera tough to get to however, big exposed and quality rock. There is a two pitch 5.9 off width that you rap into. Do you know what it is called?
Dapper Dan

climber
The OC
Dec 26, 2005 - 07:41pm PT
has anyone ever climbed at Mormon rocks off Hwy. 15 on the way to wrightwood . the rock looks awesome but it could just be a mirage of choss , i can't tell . they always shoot lame SUV ads there...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Dec 27, 2005 - 01:05am PT
Hart Park (in Orange) for realz!!!

The amphitheatre light socket traverse
The pool archway
The retaining wall behind the bathrooms (Jean Fradette would do that traverse in his cowboy boots!!- that guy deserves credit for keeping me climbing. Nicest guy in the OC.)

The tile glue ups (my first tendonitis experience, thx Lou ;))
The ceramic glue ups continuation my bro Tim and I put up that he made in a ceramics class in high school. Back in the day when we got the real Cal Trans type 'bots buttons' epoxy.

57 Freeway traverse and up routes

Good times spending lazy summer afternoons in the shade down there traversing over sand landings. Another Louie creation with the help of Jeff Archer and Jeff Jarvi. Jarvi made this cool aluminum machined rings you had to pull on. Soo slippery. I remember adding an extension that made the whole traverse go some 200' total. Then one day cal trans chopped the traverse. To this day I wish I had something like that up here in Nor Cal.

Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Dec 27, 2005 - 12:20pm PT
Dapper Dan,

I've played around at Mormon Rocks thinking the same as you. Total Choss!! Some rescue outfit uses it for rappelling training. That's about all it's good for.
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Dec 27, 2005 - 12:23pm PT
Used to climb at Corde Madera years ago when I lived in San Diego. Did a climb called Crap Duster which was OK, but really showed the exposure on this nice chunk of rock. Remember getting completely dehydrated on the hike out. Bring plenty of water cause there's nothing out there.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 27, 2005 - 12:45pm PT
Purple Stones (AKA the Purple Veins) were even better B4 one of the big floods came through.

Who first discovered the area? I seem to recall it was Dave Katz? Or was it Matt and Levy? There was fun scene back in Fall of ’81. The Stony Point regulars started going there every afternoon. Our own secret spot for awhile. Good times.
Dapper Dan

climber
an 89' honda accord
Jan 8, 2006 - 02:24am PT
in masters of stone 3 there is a segment with some dudes doing some urban climbing here in LA . included is a gnarly looking roof traverse in a storm drain and some sport pulling on what looks to be a freeway overpass support pillar . anyone know if the artificial stuff still exists ? and yea the stuff at Hart park sucks....
JMC

Trad climber
So Cal
Jan 9, 2006 - 11:49am PT
Checked out Nellus/Three Sisters on Saturday - ran in via the PCT trail off of Soledad Cyn. Man, that's a tough place to poach - access is tough (SCE property on the East, ranch on the right), lot of activity at the ranch. I ran out on semi-private dirt roads due south - road is gated off, so you wouldn't be able to drive in. Requires serious motivation to climb there. Rock looks cool though...

On Sunday, climbed at another place fading into obscurity - the Sport Boulder by Big Rock. There was a little chalk on the start of the 11a arete, but that was it. I think the quarry has taken away any traffic from this 4-bolt-high wonder.

junior

Trad climber
Modesto. CA
Jan 9, 2006 - 12:59pm PT
Anybody ever climb at Big rock at Perris lake? Nice place to take kids or your new girlfriend.
Dapper Dan

climber
an 89' honda accord
Jan 9, 2006 - 01:22pm PT
Yo JMC i was at big rock yesterday , where is the sport boulder in relation to the main wall ? is it any good ? is it a pain to get to ? I've never seen the lake so low......
JMC

Trad climber
So Cal
Jan 9, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
Dapper Dan,
Climbed at Big Rock yesterday, as well.
Sport Boulder is not hard to get to - About 1 mile west of the Big Rock/park turnoff, there is turnoff (same side as Big Rock), and a short (2-300 yd) road that ends in a turnaround/circle. The sport boulder is directly uphill: a 5-10 min. hike. Easy bushwacking, no trail. Large granite boulder with funky dark inclusions.
For more Big Rock area stuff, just uphill of Big Rock, on the west side, there is a large boulder in the canyon with a handful of bolted routes on it, 2-5 minute hike to this one. I know there's even more miscellany in the area, but that's all I've been to.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 1, 2011 - 02:50am PT
Bumpage. Thinking about visiting some obscuria this tomorrow up around Chilao. Or mt biking down through Horse Flats.
jamatt

Social climber
Asheville, NC
Jul 1, 2011 - 02:59am PT
huasna
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Jul 1, 2011 - 11:05am PT
We climbed at a scruffy little crag in the fall of 1983, on Angeles Crest Hwy. Old rusty bolts. It was "rediscovered" in 1988 and known as Williamson Rock. Found it in Herzog's old SCal guidebook. Also, climbed on the north side of Strawberry Peak & in the Twin Peaks area.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 1, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
x15x15- i think i'll pass on Alder Creek today. Tho it's been 33 years since i've been to it's walls (mtn biked on the silver moc a few dozen times B4 the fire but never ventured downstream

today's objective is the sandy bottom boulders. see if any of the big pines survived the fire plus dust off old memories of it's assortment of problems and routes..
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Jul 1, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
I have climbed all of the crest for over 25 years. Alder Creek was one of my favorites. It had everything bouldering, top roping, short aid climbs and the best of all 160 foot lead climbs on good rock.

Alder Creek has as I remember has three benches, aka water falls. Then after the last one you walk awhile and you come to a cross canyon. This is were you will find the lead climbs. There are three to four good climbs the hardest one being about 5.10a.

This is a place for a good adventure. Just bring plenty of water, and watch out for the stinging nettles.

If you need more information on how to find this place, drop me an e mail.

mmm
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 1, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
Here are two fun little bolders I just found the other day I'm sure they've been done a million times though.

Credit: Tfish
Credit: Tfish
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 2, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
Big Piton,

I’d written about this stuff earlier in the thread (5 years ago….). Alder Creek is part of my climber's DNA for many reasons.

Lots of people- myself for one, Tony Yeary for another- went climbing as novices at the Alder Creek Crags early on with Keith Leihman (one of the Riverside/ Rubidoux hotties from the late 60's).

I made a bunch of journeys to these crags '77- '78. 5.4- 5.6 easy cracks, 5.8 classic dihedral, 15’ knifeblade aid roof, 5.10 face. The magic ended the day our close buddy Jon Freriks pulled a block above the aid roof and grounded from 60'. Night at the base with Search and Rescue, helicopter extraction the next morning, traction in the hospital for 3 months and crutches for 9 months. (But Jon healed and was running 2:30 marathons in the 90’s and at 50+ is climbing uber-strong).

Also ran into Erik Erikson at Trader Joes parking lot Wed nite and got reminiscing about him putting up the crag’s testpiece around ’75- the 5.10 face.

Sandy Bottom Boulders below Chilao was my favorite place in the world for years. Freriks and Brukman had been going there early on, but it was Chuck Cole who said it was worth the visit (this must have been ’79?). This is the Alder Creek you describe as having 3 steps. The first tier area had the sandy landings next to the waterfall and pool. Highballs plus a 30’ 5.10 face (on immaculate granite). Last I visited, the floods had washed away the nice sandy landings, the problems start 5' lower and the landings were ankle breakers.

The second tier of Sandy Bottom Boulders had the Karma Spot. A giant boulder on the hillside next to a huge old-growth pine. A cliff-hanging ledge to sit on and gaze down river, across at Strawberry Peak and into sunset. I went to this spot a dozen times with girls. The only climb I remember along the 2nd tier is a 30’ left-leaning thin crack. A1. Met Brett Mauer there in ’82 and he was trying to free it at 5.12. But no success that day.

Only visited the 3rd tier once. This is where the 2 lead climbs are. I mind-melted free –soloing them with Dave Brukman (who had them wired). One is classic left-facing 5.8 dihedral (40’?). The other is a 5.7 crack to a 5.6 face exit (70’).

I am pretty sure Alder Creek Crags got burned in the fire. Though by now the new growth of wildflowers and such probably makes it asthetic. Sandy Bottom Boulder’s beauty is all about the glistening silver granite and the views, so it should remain very pretty in spite of fire damage. Just hope some of the big pines survived.

X15X15- I know you wrote earlier in this thread about keeping this area secret. I think there will never be too much climber traffic in Alder Creek. Everything is less than vertical. Today’s climber wants steep and steeper. Also- in the 70’s and 80’s, the worst damage I saw was trash left by picnickers and party pigs. What we SHOULD do is arrange this fall an Old Dude Super Topo Crag Cleanup and Climbifest. Get JMC, you , X15X15, Brukman, Tony Yeary, Keith Leihman and everybody else who hit the place and bring lots of beers.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jul 2, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
Freeway overpass near the RR tracks, San Dimas, SoCal.  Vintage.
Freeway overpass near the RR tracks, San Dimas, SoCal. Vintage.
Credit: rmuir
Heyzeus

climber
Hollywood,Ca
Jul 2, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
Just got back from up there, it's HOT!!!!!!!
Getting down the creek looks harder than before the fire. I did not try, only walked through the old CG and down the creek a ways. I'm not sure but it looks like that Poodle Bush stuff is everywhere, and I don't want to go near that stuff. I could be mis-identifying it though.

6 or 7 years ago I tried real hard to find some climbing in Adler Creek after being shown a topo. I went down there two times, found an old pin or two and some 5.8ish looking crack, but never found the main wall that was in the topo.Long time ago now, but as I remember there were a few .11's on the wall I was looking for.If you guys do a fall clean-up I might show up just to see where some of them climbs are.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jul 4, 2011 - 12:58am PT
Baldy Boulders. A true obscurity...

Fabled Baldy Boulders, the backside of B Boulder.  Top roping is for y...
Fabled Baldy Boulders, the backside of B Boulder. Top roping is for youngsters. Circa 1979.
Credit: rmuir
Really crappy image of Hussle Patterns.  I only know of two people tha...
Really crappy image of Hussle Patterns. I only know of two people that have done it, and Richard Harrison is included. (According to Richard, Largo also "claimed" to have done it.)
Credit: rmuir
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Jul 4, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Tobin was pretty active in Alder Creek bitd also. last time I was there was six or seven years ago doing some aid climbing. the sandy bottoms were still there.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 4, 2011 - 01:33am PT
Just got back/ hiked sorta into Sandy Bottom Boulders 3 hours ago. Still hot. Actually pouched a bivy last nite and hiked Baden-Powell today. After essential food and beers, went over to Chilao. Here is my mini- TR.

Parked in front on the old campground. After 1/4 mile, new (post-fire) signs say Closed to Public/ Restoration Area. So being the good Orwellian citizen I am, I turned around (while saying f*ck you TOOL). My evil twin did not turn around. He continued downstream on the use trail. Far more animal hoof prints than shoe prints. Heyzues is right- Poodle Brush and all manner of prickly jive is abundant.

Good news is the stream beds are almost untouched by the fire. Sandy Bottom Boulders still pine wooded. Could also see downstream and Alder Creek crags look unburnt, too.

Bad news is I could not find the class 2 dirt descent into the boulders. Far too much thrashing in rattlesnake heaven. Getting dark, nobody knows where I am. Screw it. Somebody else go visit those damn boulders. I’m going mtn biking.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 4, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
bumpage...
Credit: Sewellymon
Sunset at Charleton Flats Picnic Area. This is probably the best approach to the Alder Creek Crags since the Silv Moc from Chilao might be damaged from post-fire landslides.

Below is odd dude wandering through scrub in seach of choss.
Credit: Sewellymon

RtM

climber
DHS
Jul 4, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
I have had the opportunity of bouldering Baldy alot in years past. Surreal glassy rock, the v8's look like they would be 5.8

Hustle Patterns sit extension (2nd ascent of sit)photo: Rob Mulligan
Hustle Patterns sit extension (2nd ascent of sit)photo: Rob Mulligan
Credit: RtM

Goat Sloper (2nd ascent) photo Rob Mulligan
Goat Sloper (2nd ascent) photo Rob Mulligan
Credit: RtM

Goat Sloper (2nd ascent)photo: Rob Mulligan
Goat Sloper (2nd ascent)photo: Rob Mulligan
Credit: RtM

Unnamed problem at lower Baldy. Note the very young Chas Wilson spotti...
Unnamed problem at lower Baldy. Note the very young Chas Wilson spotting.
Credit: RtM
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jul 4, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
All of the stuff in the Hunk Guide (except The Beach).

Buffalo Chip,

5 Minute Crag

Orange Boulders

Black Star Boulder

All about as obscure as it gets and still having a tiny modicum of climbability.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jul 4, 2011 - 05:57pm PT
Mt. Pacifico a long time ago:
Charlie D., Mt. Pacifico 1965
Charlie D., Mt. Pacifico 1965
Credit: Charlie D.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
Wow! this thread really rose from the dead.

Funny that with all the climbing I have done in Angeles Crest, Williamson, Pacifico, North Face of Straberry Creek and stuff around Twin Peaks, I never got around to Alder Creek except to Kayak a few miles of it before it enters Big Tujunga Creek. How far up the creek is the climbing?

Muir,
The shot of the San Dimas overpass brings back memories. I climbed there with Troy and Curt Lyons. It got kinda loud when the trains went by but it was still fun. We got rained off the Vampire one day and went back to San Dimas and climbed the underpass, sucked after climbing on smooth white granite but it was still climbing.

How about the 210fwy overpass? Those were some fun routes.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 5, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
4th of July - 1 hour from Ventura...

Credit: Reilly
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 5, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
Is Sespe Gorge considered obscure? I don't know. Maybe. Fun though.

Also, didn't the Buffalo Chip get demolished by a housing development? I remember hitting that a couple of times en route to the Beach before all the new homes, which is kind of the history of that area unfortunately.

I just went to Baldy on Sunday with the intent of bouldering, but it was so hot I hit the gym and hiked instead.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 5, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
RV wrote about the Hunk Guide and Black Star Boulder. I remember this being a fun boulder, but it had a bad access issue. Like a shotgun wielding mentally disturbed cabin owner. Mtn bikers had a bunch of run-ins with him, if I am not mistaken.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 5, 2011 - 02:20pm PT
Mtn bikers had a bunch of run-ins with him, if I am not mistaken.
Me being one of them. I didn't see any shotgun, but I was approached by some shaggy looking dude in a battered pickup with a couple of angry looking dogs in the back. I think he was disappointed I didn't turn around and he didn't hassle me, but it does give the area a weird vibe.

It's a shame. A nice mt. bike ride to a nice looking boulder.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Jul 5, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
Credit: pud
Credit: pud
Johnny K.

climber
Southern California
Jul 5, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
Most of the larger baldy boulders that are on the bouldering circuit from back in the day behind the school are slathered and covered in axle grease.Along with vulgar anti climbing phrases graffitied all over them.It is a shame.(Private property owners)
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 5, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
Most of the larger baldy boulders that are on the bouldering circuit from back in the day behind the school are slathered and covered in axle grease.Along with vulgar anti climbing phrases graffitied all over them.It is a shame.(Private property owners)
Jeez. What morons. Defacing their own property to dissuade others from entering onto it. Real smart.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Jul 5, 2011 - 07:51pm PT
Pud, what are we looking at there?
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 5, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
Craig- you are correct. I gave you bunk directions to Sandy Bottom boulders. Not on purpose- just did not double check my info. Another sorry about that brudda. But also I maybe did those thousands of lost souls a favor by keeping them away from a scrubbly little hell hole. Plus sent them on their own adventures into Ultima Thule.

But I cannot give directions right now since I just got lost on the approach a mere 46 hours ago? Seems that nobody has been down there much in the last decade and the last 100 yards of trail dropping into the stream disappeared. I've also approached the boulders directly down the stream (4th class?), but in high water- the crux waterfall may be impassable.

I'll go soon in levis, big boots and gloves and have a true chaparral expedition. Then I'll have it figured out.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 5, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
Here's a few not so obscure spots
Winston Peak boulder
Winston Peak boulder
Credit: rincon
Ant Line
Ant Line
Credit: rincon
Horse Flats
Horse Flats
Credit: rincon
Santa Monica Mtns.
Santa Monica Mtns.
Credit: rincon
MiniHolland boulder
MiniHolland boulder
Credit: rincon
Spring Crag
Spring Crag
Credit: rincon
Tunnel Crag
Tunnel Crag
Credit: rincon
Tunnel Crag
Tunnel Crag
Credit: rincon
Tunnel crag on ACH.
Tunnel crag on ACH.
Credit: rincon
The Lookout
The Lookout
Credit: rincon
Boulder 1
Boulder 1
Credit: rincon
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Jul 5, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
I gotchur obscur right here:

Wildwood Pebble - Burbank

J. Paul Pebble - Malibu

Griffith Park - Old Zoo bouldering

Arroyo Seco boulder at the first bridge past the houses.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Jul 5, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
Pud, what are we looking at there?

Corpse Wall aka Saddle Peak in the Santa Monica's


Rincon, what would you rate "ant line"?
That's just West of the Horse Flats pkg lot up the creek a 1/4 mile or so right?

Scary lead for me once ; )
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 5, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
Rincon, what would you rate "ant line"?
That's just West of the Horse Flats pkg lot up the creek a 1/4 mile or so right?

Scary lead for me once ; )

I'm thinking the book is correct with 11+...we were happy to have a toprope, since neither Guy or myself got it clean when we were there a few weeks ago. FWIW, it's rated 10d on RC.com, but 11c on MP. Nice lead!

I park at the upper area, about a 1/2/mile past the Horse Flats CG entrance, then approach from above, but since the fire, it's hard to find the right spot to leave the trail, lots of downed trees.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 5, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
It's super easy to get to the TR wall at horse flats from the top way in. Park at roseneta saddle and then hike up the steep hill then it goes flat for a bit and then make a left just before you get to 2 boulders, one on both sides of the trail (someone posted a pic of the boulder on the right side like 10 comments back) Then just follow that trail and it will put you at the top of the TR wall.

It's a lot easier than starting at campsites 1,2,3 and hiking up and bush wacking.

And for sure 11+ that thing must be so wild to lead!
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 5, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
Hey spider I already posted 2 pics of the arroyo boulders. I just found them like a month ago, they are fun for being so close. Everytime Ive been there it's been covered with spiders, do you have anything to do with that?

Where's the Wildwood one in Burbank? Is it worth checking out after work one day or is it fenced off or on private land or something now?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2011 - 12:19am PT
Spider, who put the anchor bolts on top of Wildwood Pebble? Seems the ground level has raised, sand washed down and settled at the base.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 6, 2011 - 12:21am PT
I'm just gonna let San Diego Obscura remain so
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Jul 6, 2011 - 01:30am PT
Re: Wildwood pebble - Drive to the top of Wildwood Canyon Park, Burbank. Walk through the roundabout at the end and into the wash, go left about 100 ft. Can't miss it.

I've been meaning to take a picture and post it on MP with all the route names and stuff. Traverse all the way and it's almost 5.9. Zodiak 5.4 up the left center looks like a mini Zodiak with the big light gray diamond. The Prow 5.7 kinda overhanging on the right.

I started climbing there in 1988 when I found it. I'd go up there in the winter and coax the stream over to unbury the base of it. Just flip a rock here and there and added 2-3 ft to the overall height.

There were bolts when I first got there. Two. One on a cracking block on the summit and another one in a rock that was about 100 lbs and not attached to anything. I might have replaced one, I don't recall. I'll have to go back up there after work and take a picture. Check it out.

I lived in the neighborhood there for 15 years. I thought I'd, ya know, develop it, turn it into a big destination like Troy did with Williamson. Id' put out a guide, get rich from royalties. But I was too lazy and got bored with the whole "project."

EDIT: If anyone is planning to drive an hour to find a good boulder - think again, It's 10-12 ft tall and about 18 ft wide. Fractured gneiss, with a touch of poison oak.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jul 6, 2011 - 01:50am PT
Credit: pyro
Crags rd Crag's "oil and Vinegar" 5.8.
Crags rd Crag's "oil and Vinegar" 5.8.
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Jul 6, 2011 - 11:51am PT
A couple of cool, obscure boulders i've been to is the Norco Slab off of McKinley Ave. in Norco/Corona area. Also the San Dimas Canyon Boulder is good for a little burn.

How about the supposed 5.14 put up in Lower San Antonio Canyon?

Are there any routes on those red crags above Barrett Stoddard Truck Trail above the houses before the gate? (Not Barrett Canyon proper, I know that's a choss pile and i've got the scars to prove it)

I know of a 5.9 offwidth that was climbed in the late 60's by Gary Cifra & Keith Lehman in the Crystal Lake area. In the pics they used cut 2x4's as protection.....
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 6, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
hmmmmm....Crystal Lake DOES have a crag.....



Photo courtesy of Taco. He posts a lot on the San Gab Mtn Forum(& Summit Post) and he hits a LOT of obscuria in the 'Gabs. Need to get him to post up some of his alpine neve TRs.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 7, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
Locker's dream crack?

Credit: Reilly
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Jul 7, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
In my backyard.
Shabazz
Shabazz
Credit: TYeary
I wonder where this is?
I wonder where this is?
Credit: TYeary
TY
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 7, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
Spider, what's the story on the Old Zoo bouldering at Griffith Park?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 09:07pm PT
Reilly,
Is that the crack down the hill at Pacifico?
If so, it's a fun little climb. Did a face clImb on a pyramid shaped face down the hill a little more. Fun stuff up there.

Is the road open to Pacifico?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 7, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
Batrock,
Well, it is either up or down the hill depending. Pacifico, yes.
Don't know if the road is open to arsonists or others.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Jul 7, 2011 - 09:13pm PT
Old Zoo at GP. Check it out. It's a major bouldering social scene just waiting to happen. Tons of V0-V1 on stucco. Bring a brush.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 7, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
Pacifico is still closed. I bet the Forest Circus was looking for an excuse to shut down the beautiful little campground on the summit, now they will say it's been damaged by the fire and they need 500 billion dollars to replace the benches and outhouses, but it's not in the budget, so it will be closed indefinately, sad, but probably true.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jul 7, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
A beautiful 30' bouldering face on superb granite. The only problem is you've first got to get to the top of Ontario Peak...
Remember to throw your shoes into the pack.  Pucker up.
Remember to throw your shoes into the pack. Pucker up.
Credit: rmuir
On clear days, I can see it from my backyard.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jul 7, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
Yep, that's about the only San Gabriel peak with a pointy summit.

The landing though is manzanita and angled enough to discourage bouldering.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 7, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
On the station fire map pacifico isn't in the closed area, but the road is and it's locked. I think the main reason it will be closed forever is because that's where the fireman killed themselves driving off the cliff.

And Rincon have you been to switzers since they reopened it? They built 2 crazy staircases there. They are made out of the trex artifical decking and probabbly cost several thousand each and are really unnessary. And nothing down there was burned!
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 8, 2011 - 12:14am PT
Batrock- if I were to guess, Reilly's photo (below) is south east of Pacifico's main wall. But I wrote up thread in '05, the jagged crag top reminds me of the rock north west of Pacifico's summit. Jagged little spires that look like South Dakota's Needles. Plus a cool 15'- 25' boulder down the hill that might be the one you recall.

TFish- the firefighters were killed on the fire road west of Mt Gleason's LA Country Fire Camp 16.

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Jul 8, 2011 - 02:39am PT
Hey Yeary, I think you, Powell and I should take a little trip up to that Barrett Stoddard area. Keith Lehman told me years ago he put up some routes there with Bob Dominick in the late 60's. He said it was pretty chossy, but that was long before sport climbing. the rock is a weird red color like that of Barrett Canyon. You can see these from Baldy road if you look in the right spot. The only drawback I remember is the area being fairly choked with Poison Oak.

The crags, if memory serves correct are between 50 and 80 feet tall:

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=mount+baldy+ca&hl=en&ll=34.215426,-117.659299&spn=0.001085,0.001711&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=34.038806,56.074219&t=h&z=19

rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:01am PT
And Rincon have you been to switzers since they reopened it? They built 2 crazy staircases there. They are made out of the trex artifical decking and probabbly cost several thousand each and are really unnessary. And nothing down there was burned!

Nope, haven't been down there for years. They build figgen stairs at Switzers, while all the hiking trails in Tujunga and on Strawberry Peak are being reclaimed by nature as the keep out signs stay up for another year there. Then when they lift the closure in 2012 the trails will be completely gone, and will need millions of dollars to repair...ugh.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:10am PT
Cracko,

Has anybody ever checked out the large granite boulders in the rolling hills Southeast of Bakersfield ?? I believe it's Tejon Ranch property. Looks really good!


I lived in Tehachapi for a couple of years ('00-'02) and checked out some of the boulders on the northeast side of SR 58 in the rolling hills of Tejon Ranch (if that's the name of that ranch in that area). I looked at an obvious formation on the southeast side, uphill from the Tehachapi Loop (choss), and hiked up to the base of an overhanging rock escarpment at the summit of an acute peak on the northeast side of 58 (helicopter landing pad and breakfast cafe located at this exit), but it turned out to be choss too from what I could tell.

I was bouldering on one of the boulders on the north side one day when a couple of young ranch-hands (rifle in the cart) politely, yet firmly, asked me to leave the property. I later contacted a ranch official and arranged to meet him so I could show him what I was interested in on his property. He met up with me, at one of the exits off 58, and gave me a personal tour up into the ranch hills for a more in depth look into the area. He gave me some paperwork (liability papers) to submit so that I could continue climbing on the property but that was as far as it got for he never got back to me after I submitted the papers. What I climbed on, though, was bullet and what I saw during the tour was pretty attractive!

There is also a scattering of boulders on the southwest side of SR 58 (sounds like this is what you're talking about), lower down on the mountain of the rolling hills of the ranch, that always got my attention as well, but never decided to trespass. It's too bad that so much of that land is private.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:17am PT
Credit: rincon
Strawberry Peak  <br/>
north face
Strawberry Peak
north face
Credit: rincon
Credit: rincon
Credit: rincon
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:22am PT
A couple of friends climbed that and told me they were pulling refrigerator sized blocks off while climbing. Perhaps this could be the new Williamson???
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Jul 8, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
North Face of Strawberry?
TY
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 8, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
Looks like Strawberry. Ben C told me about when he and Virgil S climbed that. Sounded like loads of fun.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Yeah, that's Strawberry Peak. Perhaps a better way to describe it would be 'choads of fun.'
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
Is there a topo? Anyone know where the exsisting routes are on Strawberry NF are located? The cntral gully like feature might be worth while in winter. Anyone done that recently?
TY
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 03:54pm PT
Tony,
That's some kinda nasty! And I do know my choss.
I flew by it low and slow one day to make sure. I think the prop wash
knocked off some flakes. It was worth the gas to save the walk.

Like Nancy said, "Just say no, bro."



Besides, I'll warrant you could be roping up at the base of Lily Rock before
you could get to that side of Strawberry Pk.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 8, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Concur. I believe the only way to have fun on SPNF is when it's iced up. But also, fire burned the trails. Not open yet, though I think trail re-hab is being done. Classic mtn bike loop.

Also FYI- Strawberry Peak NF FA John Mendenhall circa 1930's.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 8, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
Tony, ask Ben about it. He said something about finding good holds. He said whenever they found a good hold, they took it with them to use later.

Isn't Virgil back in SoCal? You might call him, he's a big believer in knowing your own backyard. And as Ben says, he really likes carrying heavy packs around in the backcountry.

RCS had trips there back at the dawn of time. When the old Mugelnoos get scanned and posted, hopefully soon, maybe there will be some reports to read.

If you do the third class route up from Josephine Saddle, you can get a good look down that face.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jul 8, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
Jeff is correct, the Mt. Bike loop around Strawberry Peak is a classic. Given that the old trail was barely hanging onto the side of the mountain in places, it will be a major effort to re-establish the trail.

BTW: Buffalo Chip lives (but apparently a fore-lorn life in a high-end suburbia).

Buffalo Chip
Buffalo Chip
Credit: looking sketchy there...
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
I have a written description and topo drawn and written by Ruth Mendenhall for Strawberry Peak, I'll try and dig it up and post it.

I did a route called Strawberry Roam on on New Years eve about 20 years ago. Loose but fun non the less.
Johnny K.

climber
Southern California
Jul 8, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
Majority of this stuff is going to be choss.If something breaks off,just clean off the hold and move on :O

Choss on top of Baldy summit
Credit: Johnny K.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 8, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
This is a crag near Acton, not sure what they are calling it though.
Obscurity
Obscurity
Credit: rincon
Near Acton, CA.
Near Acton, CA.
Credit: rincon
Conglomerate stone
Conglomerate stone
Credit: rincon
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 8, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
This is a crag near Acton, not sure what they are calling it though.

Crap? :-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
Doctor's bills?
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 9, 2011 - 12:13am PT
This is a crag near Acton, not sure what they are calling it though.

Crap? :-)

Not completely crap. Only went there once and kinda forgot about it, but it's not bad. Secluded parking on a culdesac dirt road seemed to be public land (no houses nearby), approach goes uphill, about 20 minutes on a decent trail, good view, too hot in the summer. Worth going back IMO, but only because it's close to the SFV.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 9, 2011 - 12:34am PT
This area is off of Angeles Crest Highway about 1/2 mile west of Cloudburst Summit. It's visible from the road, on the north side (on Winston Peak). I top roped some of the cracks about 20 years ago.
Winston Peak crag
Winston Peak crag
Credit: rincon
On the uphill side, there is this crack:
crack
crack
Credit: rincon
There's a very old fixed piton:
Old piton
Old piton
Credit: rincon
This boulder sits right next to the road:
Credit: rincon
There's a couple good routes:
Credit: rincon
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 9, 2011 - 02:18am PT
Nice Rincon, that looks fun Im gonna have to check that out soon. I messed around once up there b4 I climbed and forgot about it.

Here is Spiders Spot. When I first saw it I didn't think it was right til I saw the bolt on the top. It looks bad, but it was actually pretty fun for a quick sesh. Thanks again for the directions!
Wildwood
Wildwood
Credit: Tfish
Fresh Bolt
Fresh Bolt
Credit: Tfish
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Jul 9, 2011 - 04:02am PT
I love this thread!
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 10, 2011 - 03:14am PT
Mini Obscure TR. My evil twin (ET) went up Angeles Crest Highway today in search of some wild San Gabriel Mountain choss.
Credit: Sewellymon
ET and I in happier times

ET slogged 10 miles into the waybegone. Not a boulder problem in sight. Faint cell signal, so ET calls a friend for BETA. “You are lost. The approach is not 30 miles, it’s 500 yards”. Oops.
Credit: Sewellymon
ET is up there somewhere. Nowhere near a boulder.

ET turns around and prepares for 90 miles of walking back to the fabled choad.
Credit: Sewellymon
Telephoto of the boulders 500 miles away..

A thousand miles miles later, ET finds a boulder.
Credit: Sewellymon
A boulder.

Credit: Sewellymon
San Gabriel Mountain version of Hangdog Flier. Where’s 10.96?

Credit: Sewellymon
Henry the Dog is not impressed.

Highlight of ET’s trip was driving down ACH at dusk. Highway was empty, and a couple of capable drivers came roaring by. Dude in Undercover-Cop- Hot-Rodded Crown Vic. A Local piloting a truck like nobody’s business. A Subaru gamely hanging in there. ET drivng an Audi A4 S-Line.

Was a Grand Prix. Empty highway, carving turns at the limit and near bumper-to-bumper lineup. Almost stupid fast. Subaru could not hang. Only place to pass going down ACH is under Strawberry Peak/ Colby Canyon. Truck punches the hole shot. Crown Vic stays behind the Subaru so ET makes the pass and hits 90 past Switzers. Crown Vic is the best driver/ car combo of the bunch. Comes roaring back so ET lets him and the truck duke it out.

Driving fast is almost as good as sex and way better than climbing San Gab Mtn blort. But ET is going back later this week.
Credit: Sewellymon
ET's Audi A4 S-Line

Credit: Sewellymon
The Klein wants a new ride.

The end.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jul 10, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
Sewellymon goes bump
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Jul 10, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
Sewellymon's trip report rules!
Thank you for that!!!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jul 11, 2011 - 02:29am PT
Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jul 11, 2011 - 03:09am PT
Credit: pyro

okay here is where every real fool is heading..

Credit: pyro
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 11, 2011 - 11:24am PT
The thousands of acres of fresh poodle dog is going to make bushwacking into these hidden gems a real pleasure!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
Topanga Cyn? It's not Sespe or Piru and it looks too clean for Malibu creek but I suppose it could be? Where it at?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 11, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
Nice TR from DeSwellMon!

Roadside access and no chalk marks? WTF?
Credit: Reilly
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 11, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
Roadside access and no chalk marks? WTF?

Never assume anything...
Credit: rincon
Chalk does wash off :) There's a benchmark on top:
Credit: rincon

Pyro's secret spot is visible from Las Virgines road, ha bro! You can drive up there, by going all the way to the top of Corral Canyon road from PCH. Great views of Santa Monica Bay, but the rock is pretty soft.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jul 11, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
Here's a rock I have never hiked up to, but it's visible from ACH just west of Red Box junction. I call it Owl Rock:
Owl Rock <br/>
Owl Rock

Credit: rincon

This boulder sits next ACH near Buckhorn Campground. The arete is about 10+ (Toproped).
Buckhorn boulder
Buckhorn boulder
Credit: rincon
Buckhorn Arete
Buckhorn Arete
Credit: rincon
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 11, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
Buckhorn Arete is a good one

here is a nice photo I found on Mountain Project (Tristin B- hope it's OK to use it....
Credit: Sewellymon

One more San Gabs from Tristin B's MP pics
Credit: Sewellymon
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 12, 2011 - 12:53am PT
So Cal Semi Obscura - Eagle Peak

Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
SoCal
Jul 12, 2011 - 01:17am PT
Just reading today in Royal's autobiography. I believe that piton on Winston Peak might be his. Pounded in around 1949 when he was active in that area.

I scanned that Strawberry Peak Wall topo and sent it to Levy but I can't seem to find it now. Too much crap on this computer. 3-hour approach to Strawberry wall by the way. I've worked it from every angle. BITD the old timers could drive the Josephine Peak road to access. It's faster to drive to Tahquitz.

I think that new bolt on Burbank Pebble must be mine. I'd agree that it may be crap. Put it up there about 1993. Hand drilled for an hour. That Gneiss is hard as hell. Not much use for it except to replace the one that was there before it. I think it's only a 2.5x3/8 split expansion type.


There are two other poison oak covered crags on Verdugo Hill. One above the dam in Country Club Canyon. I cleared poison oak and placed one totally crap bolt that should still be there. The other is near the start of La Tuna Single Track at the bottom. My friend Eddie says he placed a bolt and TRed. I've not been up to check this out. Too much poison oak for my taste.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 12, 2011 - 01:18am PT
Kevin- this is not a fair fight. SD has scads of great rock- Eagle Peak maybe the best there is judging by the photos. LA County's rock is for sh*t apart from Horse Flats bouldering and even they are sloppy seconds compared to Woodson.

Spider- not surprised about RR since he worked on Mt Waterman which is a stone's throw from Winston Pk.

Am running out of climbable San Gabs obscureness, but I do recall seeing on the 'net years ago a pic of a climbing class on a 30'- 40' crag on Mt Waterman. Photo called it 5.7. So one more festering rock awaiting it's rediscovery.

Edit for Kevin- my folks owned a place in Rainbow Heights '64- '73, so I took my Chuck Taylors all around there as a kid. Then they retired to Rainbow Valley and I'd sit on the porch and sip tea watching people TR highballs on the south side of Rainbow Boulders
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 12, 2011 - 01:26am PT
Haha, Swelly, that's funny

As a native San Diegan, I was just feeling left out, and had to represent for us down here in the country's corner.

I'm always surprised at how few climbers on a nationwide scale know how good San Diego County is for climbing and bouldering.

If it makes you feel better, I could have posted more, y'know the REALLY good stuff...
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jul 12, 2011 - 08:54am PT
bump for Kevin's "really good stuff"
somewhere in the San Deigo County hinterlands
somewhere in the San Deigo County hinterlands
Credit: can't say
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 12, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
I just noticed "Owl Rock" a few months ago, the fires exposed that thing pretty good.

And Swelly I don't care that you reposted my pics from Mountain Project. I'm still waiting for Millard to open again. I'd poach it, but that camp host is f*#king crazy and would probabbly kill me chainsaw masacure style.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 12, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
Nice photo, Pat. SD's finest.

Tristin, once the falls re-open, approach it on a weekday from above and the campground host will never know.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 12, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
Yeah I know, I went down to the falls like a month ago from the top way in. I want to just do it but everyone can see you from the trail and its not really worth it. I don't really see why it's closed it didn't burn down in there.
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Jul 12, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
Found a 20 ft roof crack in the San Bernadinos the other day.Can anyone tell me where?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jul 13, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
Pyro's secret spot is visible from Las Virgines road, ha bro! You can drive up there, by going all the way to the top of Corral Canyon road from PCH. Great views of Santa Monica Bay, but the rock is pretty soft.

Godamn Rincon now all the "lame-O squeezer jobbers" are going to my secret spot. there going to post on MP all their new roooots.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 15, 2011 - 11:51am PT
I got obscure last night. A little chossy but pretty solid and a real cool type of volcanic rock.
Credit: Tfish
Some old bolts looking down on the freeway.
Some old bolts looking down on the freeway.
Credit: Tfish
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jul 15, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Are those last few shots from Valley Of The Moon?
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jul 15, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
Levy,

If I confirmed your query, then I'd remove another veil of "obscura" not that I haven't done that already by posting pictures. Similar to Kevin's previous post, there's a lot of stuff in the San Diego and Imperial Counties, best left for you to discover on your own (not to say that some of these haven't been well recorded elsewhere).
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jul 25, 2011 - 02:33am PT
Credit: pyro
Jonnnyyyzzz

Trad climber
San Diego,CA
Jul 29, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
Left Side 40'
Left Side 40'
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
The Forest
The Forest
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Silver Street 10a
Silver Street 10a
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
[photo
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
10 min from the 15 in Escondido. 10 min approach. North facing with plenty of shade and on shore breezes. 40'-80' Sport,Trad, and TR's
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jul 29, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Credit: FRUMY
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 29, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
Hello, Just started reading the forum. Here's a photo of Ray Palmer on what we believed to be a first on the N face of Strawberry Peak ca. 1968
Exhilarating, with some sections of solid rock, but about half was REAL loose. It was a somewhat rightward tending foray of about 4-5 pitches.
Beginning near the first trees at the base. We saw no pitons. I'd rate it somewhere between 5.fun and 5.run out/loose. (5.7?) It took about 3-4 attempts. No bolts.
KL
photo not found
Missing photo ID#211145
Ray Palmer, North Face Strawberry Peak 1968
Ray Palmer, North Face Strawberry Peak 1968
Credit: Keith Leaman
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jul 29, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
really southern and really obscure.

5.0 A0

Pecacho Peak CA
Pecacho Peak CA
Credit: TGT

Colorado from Pecacho summit
Colorado from Pecacho summit
Credit: TGT

Colorado river

One of several home made ladders, in good shape in 05
One of several home made ladders, in good shape in 05
Credit: TGT
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 29, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
I'll try this again
photo not found
Missing photo ID#211153
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Jul 30, 2011 - 03:40am PT
KEITH!!!!!!!!!!! Where the hell have you been?
-Bill
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 30, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Iron Mtn.,

Rumors of my demise have been greatly exaggerated. Back in Seattle-finally.
You still climb? Here's a pic of a '66 climb at Big Rock. Paul and I were eventually able to climb free past Harrell's (5.10?) bolted section. I remember seeing the very top above water in the '90's. I read they may be closing Big Rock for a while??
Paul Gleason Big Rock ca. 1966 "Roman Nose" 5.11
Paul Gleason Big Rock ca. 1966 "Roman Nose" 5.11
Credit: KL


We bouldered a bit on the rocks atop Baldy back then-Late '60's?
photo not found
Missing photo ID#211177
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Jul 30, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
Keith, you prolly don't remember me. How have you been? It's been a very long time. I hope you are well and still climbing!
Tony Yeary
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 30, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
"Is there any climbing in San Diego?"

Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 30, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
Tony!!
Admittedly there are some cobwebs in the cranium, but luckily I took a lot of ginko biloba thru the years. Yeah- I remember you-Glendora, right??? Fill me in a little please. Apologies if I'm mistaken. Didn't you do some classic on Lone Eagle last time I saw you in the early 70's? I did some climbing at Devil's lake and Taylors Falls and Barn Bluff in the early '80's (during my 4 years on the Sioux reservation in Red Wing). I recently returned from several years in North Carolina and mostly bouldered at Stone Mtn. and Moore's Wall.

I'm always amazed at the abundance of, and my interest in remote, obscure "unclimbed" niches discovered.
White Fang east face, Granite Mtns. mid-1960's
White Fang east face, Granite Mtns. mid-1960's
Credit: Keith Leaman
Climbed fairly regularly in Leavenworth in the '90's. Thanks for remembering.
I'm doing well.
KL
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Jul 30, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
Dam Keith it's been a while. Yes Glendora! And you are correct, however one man's classic is another's choss!. Just look at the North Face of Strawberry!
Do you remember taking me, Gary and some others, maybe Rick and Tobin to Chilao and Elder Creek? Had to be about '72. Man time files. I will send you a pm. So glad you are still with us!

Nice pics Kevin. Move along, no climbing there in SD! Did you ever run into Craig Clarence? Is he still active down there?
TY
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 30, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
TYeary and others~

Tony-I recall that trip! Nice boulder problem there.
Keith, Alder Creek  1989. Climbed with Tobin S., and T Yeary here.
Keith, Alder Creek 1989. Climbed with Tobin S., and T Yeary here.
Credit: KL


Crags near Cloudburst Summit. Cifra and I found more larger ones on the side of Waterman.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#211208

Frazier Mtn has some fun more-solid-than-they-look scattered problems. I hiked to them since they were out my back door.
Keith Frazier Mtn. 1987
Keith Frazier Mtn. 1987
Credit: Keith Leaman

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Jul 30, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
This thread just got 1000% better-Thanks Keith!

Admittedly I haven't been climbing in quite awhile (injury, weight gain & poverty) but i'm living fairly close to Rubidoux as well as some other obscure problems in the area which I was planning on creating a circuit in the near future.

I haven't seen Cifra in a couple of years but I plan on visiting him soon.
I touched base with Gleason here a couple of times as well, he told me you were back in Seattle.
spenchur

climber
oak park
Jul 30, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
bump for hometown obscurities...

Here is one a couple miles inland from Leo Carrillo on mulholland where the road switches sides of the canyon called the temporal boulders. I put this one up last year called "black fly hell" for the summer climbing conditions in the canyon and checks in around v8.
Weston Ureda on Black Fly Hell, Temporal Boulders N. LA County
Weston Ureda on Black Fly Hell, Temporal Boulders N. LA County
Credit: spenchur
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 30, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
Hi Keith,

Jeff from Cal State LA Outing Center.

I remember you showing us this Alder Creek boulder problem (plus all the top-ropes). Recall thinking it was a 5.9 crack.


(photo copied from Keith's post upthread...)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 30, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
Keith, did you ever run into a gruff ex sheriff named Bob Koehnen at Taylors falls?

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 30, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
Don't recall a Craig Clarence, TYeary.

Pretty much mind my own business down here - almost nobody climbs where I do...

(In So Cal Obscura Land)
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 30, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
Hey Jeff-
Lets see- last time I saw you was at Stony Point,'80's? and I had to rush off to grad studies at CSUNorthridge. Good to hear from you! Really liked the above post by Warbler too. For me, that place looks like it embodies the idyllic "storybook" crag many of us aspired to find.

Mungeclimber: I don't remember Bob Koehner in MN, but that does not mean we may not have met. I climbed with a pleasant ceramics artist (whose name eludes me)for a while there, or out solo.

I like the phrase "hometown obscurities" above.
KL
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Jul 31, 2011 - 12:41am PT
Kevin,
I think Craig was very active at Cajon Mtn(sp), among other spots, several years ago putting up new routes and was involved in a scrabble about bolt chopping ect..I new him from Rainier and South America.He used to enjoy suffering and climbing the big hills, but he got smart. I haven't found that enlightenment yet, I guess! Cheers,
TY

ericdehaven

Sport climber
los angeles
Jul 31, 2011 - 11:43am PT
Pyro,
We hit up corpse wall yesterday. Not a bad little piece of rock.
Question though, do you park at the lookout or drive up the seemingly abandoned private road to the water tower and park there?
Its a shame that the private community on the other side is gated, otherwise that would be a much nicer walk.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Jul 31, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
E-man i park right off the stunt rd. that place is a shame! original founder named that place saddlepeak slab!
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 31, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
Keith- interesting you found rock on Frazier Mtn.

Grouse Mt (between Pinos and Abel) was reputed to have a 100' low angled crag. It's 5 or 6 miles in, so I never looked for it (tho I mtn biked thru there a few times...

I lived on Mt Pinos '93- '96. The summit of Mt Pinos has 3 stones. A low angled 40' crag. 25' rock w/ one crack that splits the center. Thin - hands 5.9+. 20' boulder just NE of the taller crag with multiple lines and by far the best stone I've seen in the whole range.

Also a few dinky boulders above the Mt Pinos Parking lot above in the forest (below pics)

Credit: Sewellymon

Credit: Sewellymon

Credit: Sewellymon

Credit: Sewellymon


Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 31, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
Sewellymon-

I had a cabin in Frazier Park in the late '80's. I do recall about a 100' darkish slab up there on one of the roads near Pine Mtn. Visible briefly from the road- somewhere closer to the desert side.

Here's a flash of Bob Dominick on the formerly obscure Mt. Williamson (used to call it Dome Rock) when there were but a few routes. Phil Gleason and I went up there to climb it in the early '60's and got to near the top in a dense fog. Visibility was about 10'. He lead up anyway on something on the upper formation. Must have been about 60-80'of friction. I was surprised when I got to the belay and he hadn't used any pro. It's a sport route now.
Bob Dominick Williamson Rock 1975
Bob Dominick Williamson Rock 1975
Credit: Keith Leaman

The Gleasons and I would plod up Eaton Canyon with a 50' piece of goldline that we had gleaned from a Munglenoose meeting, looking for climbs, and found an impass at a waterfall with a piton stuck in a large log. We surmised it "possibly" was John Muir's, since we read in his autobiography that he had explored Eaton Canyon. We were kids, what did we know?

Was that former post of a group of boulders near the headwaters of Bear Creek? Dominick and I did some routes in Cascade Canyon which, in retrospect, and given all the new gear, might have some actual possibilities. Interesting chert caliche (sp?) formations and red rock.

KL



ericdehaven

Sport climber
los angeles
Aug 1, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
ok so since we are talking of off the wall areas in LA.
Anyone know of the actual location of this place referred too on rockclimbing.com
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Los_Angeles_County/Bat_Cave__The/Euro_Wall/

I do not believe this is the same "bat cave" in Louie's book near Boney Bluff or am I wrong?

Here is a pic I pulled from the site of the area.
Credit: ericdehaven
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 1, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
Didn't they film the opening scene in "Vagina Monolgues" there?
ericdehaven

Sport climber
los angeles
Aug 1, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
yeah right huh..
Looks a bit like it..

besides the vaginal reference the area, though saying its closed on the page has activity as I have read a few places of people doing the routes up till 3 or 4 months ago, but no specific location info.. Looks really cool. Even if its not climbable it would be great to check out
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Aug 1, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
Kieth- Bob Dominick's Cascade Canyon got actively developed in '79 (by Keith Cunning and Ed Kaufer) and then promptly forgetten. Based on what I read on the San Gab Mtn forum, people have been sniffing around at it again. But it's choss, like almost everything else we've been discussing...
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 1, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
Just one of the reasons, Jeff, that I moved up here where solid is more accessible. Though it's getting crowded here too. Thanks for responding.
KL
Phil Gleason on North Face of Burgundy Spire. 5.10 Yosemite-like flare...
Phil Gleason on North Face of Burgundy Spire. 5.10 Yosemite-like flared chimney. Washington Pass. 2000
Credit: Keith Leaman
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 1, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
Didn't they film the opening scene in "Vagina Monolgues" there?

I thought that was here...

Kris Solem and John Stark paying homage to The Queen of the Desert, Jo...
Kris Solem and John Stark paying homage to The Queen of the Desert, Joshua Tree.
Credit: Rob Brown
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Aug 1, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
Eric-D ~ That photo is from another "Bat Cave", which is in Woodland Hills under the south face of Castle Peak. Castle Peak is at the entrance of Bell Canyon, an affluent, gate-guarded community between Woodland Hills and the Santa Susana Laboratories where the worst nuclear accident in US history took place in the late 1950's. The route pictured is "European Vacation" and is 5.12b and is solid for the grade. It is rather good pulling on a very steep wall.

The Bat Cave AKA Tony's Mud Cave, is found by parking on Vanoven, just
west of Valley Circle Blvd. You hike thru the gate & proceed 1/2 mile back to a fence line. From here you can see the cave off to the right, it looks like a crescent moon. It's a sandstone conglomerate in which there has been eons of calcarious deposition making a limestone like surface on some of the climbs. There are tufas ,huecos & other cool features that make for some great steep climbing. There are also some lesser quality lines that have a slit like powdered layer on them that is not so good.

The area is worth a visit if you enjoy 5.11 to 5.12+ climbing. The easier routes are generally not very good IMHO. It is open as far as I know. It's only about 1 mile from my work. When it cools down, I'll take a look & see if there are any access problems & post up here what I found out.
ericdehaven

Sport climber
los angeles
Aug 1, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
Levy,
Thank you for the info. I will probably take a hike up there in the next week or two and post what I see. I figured it was up in that general direction as I used to scramble up around there when I was a kid and it looked somewhat familiar. We even used to try to sneak in and around the old missile facility because as kids there were tons of great conspiracy stories surrounding it. Last year I hiked to a few of the old titan silos in the hills around LA. A strange cold war era throwback.

You seem to have a good bit of knowledge about the chatsworth area, so I have another question. I was speaking with some of my friends who regular stoney and asked if anyone has recently hiked up to some of the large walls visible above Chatsworth park, and the answer of course was "all choss" but no one I know had been up recently, then I read that there are some bolted routes even in the park itself.
Have you been up in the hills there at all?

Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Aug 1, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
Eric-D I'll drop you a line to your e-mail.. You can call me to discuss matters further.
joeblow

climber
Aug 1, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
So levy, I don't get it, which part of fight club are struggling with? It's pretty well known, Tony doesn't want the info out. How would you like it if directions to your semi secret new area were posted? Do the right thing and pull that info.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Aug 1, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
JoeBlow-hard,

Since when does Tony not want info about the area to get out?

Tony has never said anything to me about wanting to keep it on the down low.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 1, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
KSolem,
They filmed the closed scene there - Duh!
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Aug 2, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
Tony B- i'd seen this photo B4. This is on Twin Peaks, or?

Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 3, 2011 - 11:05am PT
I just found this route. I had to trundle some football sized rocks off it but other than that it's solid. It needs some brushing too.
Credit: Tfish
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
I just read this whole thread and really want to play.

I got somethin'.
Good climbing out here, different view seen upthread.


Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
So now the Mojave is SoCal? :-)
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
It's eastern so cal.

One time I hiked all around behind the Fang, up and down a series of parallel corridors. I saw some of the most mind blowingly good rock I have ever seen. It was super well featured. It looked like a mix of the Needles, El Cap and Josh. I believe it MIGHT have been a closed area though. Bighorn mating and such going on out there.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 7, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
http://www.bigwall.com/scag_lac.html


Some of these have been brought up on here. Like Baldy, Stoney, Millard, and Eaton, but has anyone been to Rocky Peak or Box Canyon? I went to the Box Canyon boulder like a year ago and it was covered in moss, had 1/4 leapers, and no anchors at the top so I was over it.

Credit: Tfish
Credit: Tfish
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Oct 7, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
T-Fish, Didn't you recently climb the Eagle Rock? Any pictures?
Tim Camuti

Trad climber
CA
Oct 8, 2011 - 11:35am PT
Keith
Here's a flash of Bob Dominick on the formerly obscure Mt. Williamson (used to call it Dome Rock) when there were but a few routes. Phil Gleason and I went up there to climb it in the early '60's and got to near the top in a dense fog. Visibility was about 10'. He lead up anyway on something on the upper formation. Must have been about 60-80'of friction. I was surprised when I got to the belay and he hadn't used any pro. It's a sport route now.

I climb regularly with Bob Dominick and he would like to get in touch with you. You have PMs disabled, but please PM with with contact information if you're interested in reconnecting!
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Oct 8, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
The Warbler said,


Jul 11, 2011 - 10:26pm PT

Haha, Swelly, that's funny

As a native San Diegan, I was just feeling left out, and had to represent for us down here in the country's corner.

I'm always surprised at how few climbers on a nationwide scale know how good San Diego County is for climbing and bouldering.

If it makes you feel better, I could have posted more, y'know the REALLY good stuff...



I just went through the whole thread.

You know being a San Diego Native I have to really agree with "The Warbler."

San Diego County has perhaps the most crags and boulders out of any county within the USA. That isn't stretching the truth at all. We have a plethora or really good multi-pitch crags in the BC, and border to border boulders, and all the amenities and fun diversions of a big city (with a small city feel). Everyone can have their "secret crag" down here. And for the most part the rock is really good solid granite/granodiorite. There are a lifetime of crags and boulders down here and you still wont get to it all. And where else can you ski in the mountains in the am, climb great rock in the desert in the afternoon, and in the evening hit some great breaks on the surfboard? Where? (I've done that.) OK, LA County also. Both San Diego and LA county are very unique in that way; no other counties in the US can claim that. Pretty coooooooooooooool.

California is truly blessed with a near infinite amount of really good rock from the beach, coast, inland, desert, and alpine environments. Pretty awesome if you ask me.

Where SoCal climbers are really blowing it: the Gondola canyon on San Jacinto. Dang those spires have to get climbed. That is Sierra big quality alpinish wall climbing there. Also all the long alpine routes to be done on the North Face of San Jacinto in full winter conditions. We have a veritable scaled down Chamonix-Mont Blanc in our own close backyard. There should be all kinds of routes all over all sides of San Jacinto. Dang we are lazy.


Not to mention the many quality JT like regions that are still not well known. (Dang it all Batrock, SSSSSSssssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. It's secret.) Besides, they would all kill themselves trying to get there. 4X4 major obscura and very dangerous. Your gonna die !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't even think about going there. We are saving lives! Just imagine all the skeletons hanging out of the vehicle windows we would have to encounter just getting there. Not a pretty sight.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 8, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
Uh, Klim, I thought all those spires have been climbed. And as for the N Face
it does offer some good ski descents but despite repeated perusals I've yet to
identify an Innominate or a Peuterey.
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Oct 8, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
Uh, Klim, I thought all those spires have been climbed. And as for the N Face it does offer some good ski descents but despite repeated perusals I've yet to identify an Innominate or a Peuterey.

Reilly,

Now I might be mistaken about some of the spires within the Gondola canyon, where are the write-ups and topos?

Yes, the N. Face of San Jacinto, Snow Creek, is supposed to be a great ski descent, but I'm talking about the ridges that go from near the desert to near the summit bordering Snow Creek. In winter conditions those granitic alpine ridges, with a few long faces on them also would be pretty hard-core. Even in the Spring or early Summer without snow they would be pretty hard-core.

Remember, I said "scaled down," I didn't say it was exactly like it. You could make it as hard as you want to make it by picking the most extreme line. I've sat down there for long periods of time just off of I-10 in the desert with powerful binocs looking and taking images (sorry slides and I don't have a scanner yet) and the routes look as knarly as you want to make them.
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Oct 8, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
dee ee,

In the late '60s, a group of us did several routes up the large brownish desert varnish sections of the main formation (among others) in your photo. The right side has an easy route -"White Fangs Revenge". I took about a 70' whipper off a FA (5.11?) line up the left side. Also, as mentioned upthread, the helmet shaped formation on the right has some routes.

John Gosling, Lee Harrell and I did a nice 3 pitch route on a wall in one of the corridors you explored behind the "Fang". As far as I know the place has been off limits for many years. Were you there with us? We went out there almost every weekend. One morning we woke up and one of us had been sleeping on top of a rattlesnake all night! Saw lots of Bighorns.

Klimmer,

In '73, Paul Gleason (RIP) and I went twice to explore the Snow Creek area you discussed^^^. Here's where we started to traverse over to the larger formations. We roped up on some scrambling, but didn't get to best sections. Nah! Nothing to see there. Choss for sure;-)
Paul Gleason on Snow Creek,  San Jacinto  1973
Paul Gleason on Snow Creek, San Jacinto 1973
Credit: KL

Tim, Sent you a PM, Thanks
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Oct 8, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
Keith,

Great stuff. Choss for sure no doubt ;-)





San Jacinto Peak:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Jacinto_Peak
“Geography
To the east, the peak towers over the city of Palm Springs; to the west, it borders the mountain community of Idyllwild. The peak is also frequently called Mount San Jacinto. The steep escarpment of its north face, above Snow Creek, climbs over 10,000 feet (3,000 m) in 7 miles (11 km). This is one of the largest gains in elevation over such a small horizontal distance in the contiguous United States.”

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1a/Santa_Rosa_and_San_Jacinto_Mountains_283.jpg
“Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument, California, USA. North face of San Jacinto Mountains, on March 30, 2003.

The steep escarpment of its north face climbs over 10,000 feet (3 km) in 7 miles (11.3 km). It is the steepest escarpment in North America. Snow Creek can be seen as the snow-filled gully reaching to the summit. The lower reaches of Snow Creek belong to the Palm Springs Water District, which strictly enforces a ban on trespassing. From right to left the named summits in this picture are: Folly Peak, 10,480+ feet, San Jacinto Peak, 10,804 feet, Miller Peak, 10,400+ feet, and Cornell Peak, 9750 feet.”


The North Face of Mt. San Jacinto in all of it’s glory:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0c/San_Jacinto_Peak_0675.jpg

Someone please try to tell me there isn’t incredible climbing on the North Face of San Jacinto.

Like I said, we have our own (smaller scale) veritable version of Chamonix-Mont Blanc right here in SoCal, whether you climb it Spring, Summer, Fall, or in full on Winter conditions.

There should be tonnes of climbs already done on this massive North Face escarpment. Guide books could be dedicated to this wonderful superlative physiographic feature with the routes labeled that are done and topo-ed, along with those that are possible. My mind goes into incredible climbing dream fantasy mode when I look at this face and all the possibilities.

For crying out loud it is right here in our backyard. There are no excuses.


TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Oct 8, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r290/TonyYeary/?action=view¤t=DSCN0041.mp4
Right i my backyard. Rock Garden bouldering Baldy Bowl. Casey Romero climbing.
TY
curt wohlgemuth

Social climber
Bay Area, California
Oct 8, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
Snow Creek. One of the most adventurous days of my life. I hiked/climbed up Snow Creek in Mar '81 solo (after partners bailed) when I was a young alpine-hungry proto-climber. Bivied right on the summit, hiked the next morning to the tram, bluffed the operator into getting a free ride down, then hitch-hiked back to my car. It was awesome.

Curt
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Oct 8, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
With climbing/ski friends I've gone many times from the Tram to the summit via BC skiing. I have yet to ski the North Face, via Snow Creek though. Someday. Hopefully soon.

But the entire North Face of Mt. San Jacinto sure has some great potential for climbing and BC skiing.



Just dreaming about what's possible. There are a lot more dreams here than I have indicated that's for sure . . .







The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 9, 2011 - 12:12am PT
The Shizzle
The Shizzle
Credit: The Warbler
Across from The Shizzle
Across from The Shizzle
Credit: The Warbler

This rock is the best granite you can imagine
SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber
Baldy
Oct 17, 2011 - 05:35am PT
Oh shnap

Nice photo of Crystal Lake Crag. I'm real interested in hearing about what y'all have done up there and whatnot. I'm actually in the process of writing a book about climbing and assorted stuff up in the San Gabes. It would be cool to hear some stories and info, even if I don't end up putting it in the book.

Some Crystal Lake goodness... the cleanest line so far.
CLC - Crack
CLC - Crack
Credit: SpeedyTaco

Also, one of the nicest winter lines on Snow Creek isn't on your topo. :-)

Howdy Tony!

Cheers all

Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Oct 17, 2011 - 10:15am PT
Nice pic Speedy, I remember that climb! Several of our group did about 8-10 routes on the Crystal Lake Crags in the late 60's. We did some serious trundleage up there, much to the dismay of the fishers below! As I recall, if you traverse left along the sloping ledges near the bottom of your photo, and gain a corner, there is access to a thin crack up the flat wall to your left. Some old photos: Gary Cifra reaching that corner on a winter outing.
Gary Cifra, Crystal Lake Crag Right. Black Face.  1970
Gary Cifra, Crystal Lake Crag Right. Black Face. 1970
The short, thin crack up the blackish face took rurps and knifeblades and went mostly free except for a few moves.
KL at Crystal Lake, Black Face Winter 1969
KL at Crystal Lake, Black Face Winter 1969
Credit: Keith Leaman
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Oct 17, 2011 - 11:29am PT
Those pics of Granite Mountain (The Fang, etc.) bring back great and old memories. We first went out there right about the time the previous generation of So Cal guys (Haney, the Gleasons, Dominick, Jach Schnurr, Barker, et al) were just getting finished with the place. My first tripe out there Paul Gleason showed me a crack for the ages. Then Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison and I did a 1st ascent in the canyon Dave E. described that to this day is one of the greatest new routes I've ever done, passing over a huge A-frame roof via a slanting .11a crack. Ricky took a number of legendary falls into the terrifying open space beneath the A-frame. Richard and I watched in awe!

JL
SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber
Baldy
Oct 17, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
Keith, that's awesome. I really appreciate the photos and your stories.

Is the face you're talking about the one on the left of the climber here?

I've been eyeing it for a while. Did you guys aid it or free it?

Did you guys give those routes any names?

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it. :-)
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Oct 17, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
Largo, I was looking for some old timers online and read that Jack Schnurr is a colonel in the Air force reserves-recently did a MEDRETE? mission to Bolivia. Also it seems he did become an Osteopath working at a hospital in Carson City as late as 2009. Haven't seen him since we dropped off a bunch of biners at your place in Upland in '71? on our way to do the "Step" at Tahquitz. He's another So Cal character. If I make contact I'll say Hi.

Speedy-That's it. We gave some of them (corny) names. We named one the Leeper Route, since it was the only piece (stubby) of pro I could get in on a steep, wet, scary loose fit of desperation where I remember at one point crying out loud in a storm drenched ascent-"God just give me one handhold"!! Amazingly a beam of light broke through the clouds and illuminated a small key handhold -the solution to the climb. I kid you not! (A few aid moves in the snow).
SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber
Baldy
Oct 17, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
F'in rad. :-)
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 17, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
No fair posting photos of San Diego Warbler. There's so much rock littered throughout that county, it makes me sad LA doesn't have one-tenth of that amount.
Johnny K.

climber
Oct 19, 2011 - 12:57am PT
....
Big Piton

Trad climber
Ventura
Oct 19, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
I haven't been to this tread in a while. And saw this about Rocky Peak Rd. Around 1990 me and a friend I'll call him J.0. started exploring the area. J.O. was driven to bolt the overhang. So, we started doing routes on the apron to get our feet wet. On the same day I wanted to climb the corner to the left of the overhanging bolt ladder. About half way up the expanding flake all the pins I put in fell out. I was looking at a good 40' fall landing on the apron. Lucky I was able to down climb. J.O. told me that he did it free with a friend and rated it 5.11 tr.

Next we climbed the 40 foot crack noted on the Big Wall web site.


2) THIN CRACK (A3+?)
This route is passed on the walk to the roof, a 40' wall located 35 yards south of the roof. Looks like it's only been done once.
Pro: KBs, LAs?

This is a great place to teach someone to aid climb. It been climbed at least 10 times. 4 by me.

The deal we made is J.O. mess around on the stuff I wanted to do if I belayed him as he bolted the roof. J.O. called the route Plasma and it took him a month to do all the bolting.

Other areas off Rocky Peak Rd. When you get to the area of this formation look North (left) towards Simi and you will see a ridge of rock. I climbed there off and on for two years. The walls get taller to the right (north).

As a caution this whole area has a lot of poison oak. However, I did find some petrified wood in cased some of the sandstone.

There is also a nice boulder 5 mins from the car. Once you walk up the first 100 ft of the road and gain the flat area, just keep on walk towards Simi ( down hill ) off trail and it will come into view. The boulder looks like a loaf of bread broken in half.

If anybody wants more info PM me.

On the Big Wall site I just saw the Tampa Bridge Area. I put all that stuff up. Ha Ha

I no longer live in the area. But, I am glad to some of my work is still there for peps to climb. There is a small amount under the Desoto Exit.

MMM
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Oct 24, 2011 - 03:17am PT
Thanks for the Crystal Lake pics (past & present) Freakin' Awesome!!!
SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber
Baldy
Oct 27, 2011 - 05:28am PT
For sure dude.

I've been compiling data and putting it on MP: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/crystal-lake-crag/107313311

IronMtn, you commented on a youtube vid I had a while ago, but never got back to me.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Oct 30, 2011 - 04:45pm PT


Yeah, it:s a blurry shot of a shot...
But if you know you know.
KW?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 30, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
Hah!

That's how that problem looks to me all the time, at my age

Jefe, I did the FA, and since then I've done the basic problem more than any other boulder problem, AND done nearly every combination of eliminations, sit starts, traverses, downclimbs etc.

Perfect for doing laps when off the couch or coming off an injury.


Rainbow is pretty damn good!


Yabositz is the name for those who don't know... to remain obscure until the climbers who own the property open it to the public. It could happen, but a couple of crusty Stodgemasters are gonna have to soften up... don't hold yer breath

The place would be crawling with climbers....

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 30, 2011 - 05:07pm PT
Jeff took me up there and showed me that problem. So good. Rainbow has some of the best bouldering granite I've ever touched. And the setting is gorgeous if you have a taste for the SoCal inland mountains, which I very much do.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Oct 30, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
Sweet, KW.
That place is like a goulash of all my favorite types of granite.
I was happy to get the tour.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Oct 30, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
Some other thing.

Sorry again for the blurr... or is it "haze"?

I only have a few shots and wasn't in shape enough at the time to climb above 5.11, but that "Chief" sure is a gem. Wish I had THAT problem in my backyard(or on my property).
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 30, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
That's Broken Heart, directly across from Yabositz, or Yabo.

Easy highball on perfect rock - feels like a miniature route.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 30, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
Yep. I thought it was a bit scary. I LOVED the big slab just uphill from the parking area. I think that was another one of yours, Warbler.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 30, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
I couldn't believe my eyes the first time I bushwhacked over that hilltop, you guys!

Turning it into a bouldering area with good trails and landings took many man hours over years.

It was a great adventure in the brush, that's for sure. We were finding classic problems for years. Pretty scoured by now, but with a little imagination new stuff keeps appearing.

Rainbow has so much good climbing in the 10+ to 12- range, unlike a lot of bouldering areas. Great place to train for face climbing.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Nov 10, 2011 - 11:56am PT
Credit: pyro
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jan 16, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
Chimney climbing, anyone?
Spider in Corvus Chimney, 5.4
Spider in Corvus Chimney, 5.4
Credit: Christian Sweetshepherd
Stemming in Corvus Chimney, makes it 5.4+
Stemming in Corvus Chimney, makes it 5.4+
Credit: Spider Savage
Christian nearing the end of the chimney.
Christian nearing the end of the chimney.
Credit: Spider Savage
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
Spider, thanks for the beta, my son and I had a fun time and he had a blast on his first "multi pitch".
Credit: Batrock
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Feb 16, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
It's a good one for sons and daughters just starting out. Easy going with plenty of air.
Hyperion Slab at Texas Canyon. A fun & easy romp.
Hyperion Slab at Texas Canyon. A fun & easy romp.
Credit: Spider Savage
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Feb 16, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
Texas is a great place for beginners. Lots of easier routes & some of the easier routes can be done in tennis shoes or whatever footwear is handy. Good to see folks enjoying it!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 12:25am PT
That was my first time at Texas Cyn. Need to get back, looked like some fun stuff in that gully to the left of Hyperion.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 12:31am PT
Why the hell is every road in Angeles Crest closed these days? You cant drive the road to Pacifico, the road to Horseflats is closed, Anything off the main highway even before the big fire has been closed. I was at the REI in Arcadia the other day and noticed that right up the street the NFS is building a new headquarters and it is a monster of a headquarters. I guess all the money that would have gone to keeping and maintainig roads and trails is going into the new ANF headquarters? I'm just a little pissed.
Rokrover

Trad climber
SB, CA
Feb 19, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
For chimney fans:

Santa Monicas - chimney right of Paleface
Santa Monicas - chimney right of Paleface
Credit: Rokrover

We did this as a fill-in route next to Paleface in the "Top Hat" area (ref: Louie Anderson's guide to the Santa Monicas). As the great John Ewbank would say "If you miss the start of this route, you might as well give the game away"
bajaandy

climber
Escondido, CA
Feb 20, 2012 - 11:05am PT
Some SD county obscurata right in my back yard.
North County
North County
Credit: bajaandy
Turning the lip of The Wave
Turning the lip of The Wave
Credit: bajaandy
Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction
Credit: bajaandy
Jabba the Hut
Jabba the Hut
Credit: bajaandy
Out of Focus
Out of Focus
Credit: bajaandy
Out of Focus
Out of Focus
Credit: bajaandy
Traverse Rock
Traverse Rock
Credit: bajaandy
Big Tipper
Big Tipper
Credit: bajaandy
Big Tipper
Big Tipper
Credit: bajaandy
Just some junk.
Just some junk.
Credit: bajaandy

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 20, 2012 - 11:22am PT
Batrock, don't you know the inmates are running their asylum now?
And don't get me started on that colossus outside Lone Pine. What a
horrendously poor design. That building could have been built 1/4 the size.



What you can't drive to...
Credit: Reilly
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Mar 12, 2012 - 12:48am PT
Best crack climb in the San Gabriels?

Me and Guy climbed a crack on Saturday that was short, but pretty damn good, and went at 5.11a!
climb
climb
Credit: rincon
finish is 5.10 face climbing
Crack climb <br/>
10.d
Crack climb
10.d
Credit: rincon
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 12, 2012 - 12:56am PT
Chiriaco Summit

Credit: StahlBro
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 25, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
New secret spot...
New secret spot...
Credit: Tfish
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 25, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
Tfish--- oh come on... spill beans.

TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jul 25, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jul 25, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
I don't understand bolting a crag, then keeping it a secret. Why not just top rope it and save some money? Either leave no trace, or share with others.


Photo above - mt Baldy Sierra Club boulder, SW end.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 26, 2012 - 11:07am PT
It's a secret cuz I still have a few more routes to do around the corner. And Guy, forsure I'll let you know soon, you guys showed me your sick spot, so I owe you guys.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jul 26, 2012 - 11:55am PT
Credit: rmuir

Just saying...
Heyzeus

climber
Hollywood,Ca
Jul 26, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
It doesn't seem 'either/or' to me. There's quite a difference between keeping something totally secret, and not publicizing/promoting it. The middle way is when a spot is not a secret (plenty of people know about it, it's in a guidebook,etc) but not posted on the Internet.

I don't get your comment on leave no trace. If that seemed important in the least, then I would think you would not want it trumpeted. Maybe some people want a quiet, peaceful place to climb and be in nature.
SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber
Baldy
Aug 6, 2012 - 05:10am PT
Is there still grease all over them holds on that boulder?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
Tfish,
That looks like the Spring Crag area near Williamson but I guess it could be anywhere.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Aug 7, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
No grease on the lower area. I just spent five days putting up a five move slab problem there. Probably could do it first time in the winter. Beautiful setting down there.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Aug 12, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
Nah, it's not spring crag. Its not that far up the crest.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Aug 27, 2012 - 01:57am PT
Credit: pyro
nice temps at the Bu.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 1, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
Earthquakes? When?

Credit: Reilly
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Sep 4, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
T Fish and Pyro posted some Goods. Any hints yet?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Sep 4, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
That last pic from Pyro looks like something off of Malibu Canyon Rd. There are a few slabs tucked up in some side canyons that always looked worth checking out. Of course, I could be totally wrong...
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Sep 4, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
Fat Dad nails it! That photo is of an obsucre side canyon off Malibu canyon Road called " The Slab that Time Forgot". There are some 5.8 to 5.11- polished slabs that are OK.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Sep 5, 2012 - 12:30am PT
Credit: pyro
my good friend roger putting on shoes and prepping for the Malibu slab.
while Dave belay's kevin.
rare pick of a "socal slab party".
obscure for sure yet so local.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Sep 5, 2012 - 12:51am PT
also, here is some more socal obscure stuff.
Credit: pyro
Dave Katz climbing on the iceberg :)

ß Î Ř T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 5, 2012 - 01:46am PT
Where is that thing Reilly?

wallgumby

Big Wall climber
LA-LA, CA
Sep 5, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
I put a post under "why are you bored of Stoney Point" on a mini-crag I found some worthwhile climbs on in hills west of Stoney Point. I should have added it to this thread.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Sep 6, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
The closest sport route in LA?
Credit: Tfish
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 21, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Biotch.... the spire is right above ECHO.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Sep 21, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
Oh WTF a few photos up thread we had muir, hensel and what appeared to be the consummate derelict bolton in close proximity. That does it. I'm going offline forever an prepping for the zomie invasion. You guys are on your own.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 21, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Bob.... Please don't go.

But if you do, please go and write up a big, crying rant about the horrors you see on the Taco. And how it makes you feel bad......

That is whats new around here....

rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Sep 22, 2012 - 10:35am PT
Hey, anyone know if this slab on Pine Mountain in the San Gabriels has ever been climbed on?

N. face Pine mountain
N. face Pine mountain
Credit: rincon
N.F. Pine Mtn.
N.F. Pine Mtn.
Credit: rincon
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Sep 22, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
bump for rincon's pine mtn pic.
ec

climber
ca
Sep 22, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Look at that crown fracture!
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Sep 26, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
Holy sh#t! I just got called the "consummate derelict" by Van Belle! That's like being called "kinky" by the Marquise de Sade. I HAVE ARRIVED!

SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber
Baldy
Sep 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
I have scouted it out and looked up at it from the base of the gully a bunch of times. FWIW that's Shale I think. The same rock makes up a lot of the area north of Baldy. The only shale solid enough to hold pro I've encountered was deep in Fish Fork.

I was geared up to climb that slab this winter, but I moved to the Ditch from LA so that's no longer on the menu. I don't think it would be very safe, but it would be nifty.
SpeedyTaco

Mountain climber
San Gabes & Yosemite Village
Sep 27, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
If you would like some beta on the approach and all that, I'll trade ya for pics and a TR when you do it.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Sep 27, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
From blue ridge road?

Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 28, 2012 - 08:31am PT
haha--i did that pine mountain face back in the 80s. saw the sunset flash on it on a baden-powell hike and just had to check it out.

we approached via the dry creeks below--quite a lengthy approach. the rock is some kind of metamorphosed stuff. gneiss or schist, very grainy. it's pitched at an angle which doesn't quite make it very challenging climbing--not much harder than middle 5th slab. the challenging part is the protection, especially with the chock rack we were using. the best stuff to protect would have been knifeblade pitons, and not much else. very tight seams you could hammer something into, but too friable for wired nuts and the like, and nothing wide enough for chocks or large cams.

all in all, a nice little adventure, but not very challenging climbing.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Sep 28, 2012 - 09:59am PT
Yeah, I thought it was probably chossy, not to mention a bowling alley, but I figured someone must have checked it out.

Thanks for the info you guys.

I think taco has the right idea, to do it as a ice climb. Only it would be hard to access that time of year, with the Blue Ridge Road under snow. Too bad too, cuz that face has some of the steepest lines in the San G's, and would be badass for skiing.
Black diamonds on Blue Ridge.
Black diamonds on Blue Ridge.
Credit: rincon
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 28, 2012 - 11:29am PT
it's not chossy, just not terribly hard. because it's grainy, it's pretty easy friction.
rcguy

climber
Sep 30, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
On the way to Saddle Peak in the Santa Monicas. Needs some gardening at the base. Small but the ocean view is incredible.
Credit: rcguy
spenchur

climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
Sep 30, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
^^^thats the Black Flower crag^^^^ total choss pile!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 1, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
Cracks underneath the 210 freeway. Early training ground for the Sheepbuggers
pick a size
pick a size
Credit: can't say
Sredni Vashtar

Social climber
Far West LA & UK
Oct 1, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
Biotch:Where is that thing Reilly?

Wasnt a question for me but i know the answer, viewable from mishe mokwe trail

it's somewhere around here 34.131567, -118.921680

but hard to tell from google earth
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 1, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
Biotch:Where is that thing Reilly?

Wasnt a question for me but i know the answer, viewable from mishe mokwe trail

it's somewhere around here 34.131567, -118.921680

but hard to tell from google earth

2nd clue.... Walk out to ECHO Cliffs.... its on your right.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 1, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
Just put up a 5.10d ground up.
Bolting on lead
Bolting on lead
Credit: Tfish

Heres my buddy rick TRing another line.
Rick TRing
Rick TRing
Credit: Tfish
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 1, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
TFish..... nice flash dude!!!!!!!!
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
I've been eyeing this pile of choss off of Angeles Crest Hwy for awhile now and finally decided to scope it out. It's off to the right just before you get to the clear creek station/Angeles Forest hwy turn off. It looks like a mini Texas Canyon.

Crest Choss?
Crest Choss?
Credit: Tfish

But it looks some kooks beat me too it.
Kook Bolt
Kook Bolt
Credit: Tfish

Every hold would crumble in your hand or under your feet.
90ft of choss
90ft of choss
Credit: Tfish

I found a decent line on another formation in a water grove that only had one hand hold break. Over all it was a pile. And the station fire messed up the rock too.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Oct 7, 2012 - 12:40am PT
I hiked out to that pile about 20 years ago, decided it wasn't worth it and never went back. Last few years I've been wondering if I was wrong and have been very close to going over there again just to make sure. Thanks for saving me the trouble. It's not easy to get to those rocks even though they look so close.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Nov 22, 2012 - 01:30am PT
Credit: pyro
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 12, 2013 - 12:49am PT
YESH OBscurachoss
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 12, 2013 - 12:52am PT
I just threw up a little.
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 12, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Bat Rock: Bats, bees, dark, dirty and hard - what's not to love.

Our closest crag.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Here is a fun place to boulder on the way up or down the 14. It's off the Burro Schmidt Tunnel road about 2 miles off the 14 and about a 100 yard walk to the boulders.
Credit: Batrock
Credit: Batrock
Credit: Batrock
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Williamson Rock 1983
Williamson Rock 1983
Credit: Batrock

Williamson Rock, 1983. Climbing with a few members of the Burbank HS X-country team. We would tell the coach we were,going for a long run and load up the car and head for Williamson.
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
I dug out more old obscura. It's been 40 years since I've been down there, but as I remember, somewhere high on a ridge near Waterman Mt., Kratka Ridge area, I dragged Cifra up the south side of Angeles Crest Hwy toward some outcrops barely and infrequently visible from the road (fires may have opened the view?) somewhere near this Cloudburst area (on which we also did a few routes)
Cloudburst area Angeles Crest Hwy '73
Cloudburst area Angeles Crest Hwy '73
Credit: KL

Seems like it took 1-2 hours to get to the ridgeline of Waterman (no trails) through big pines where we clean-climbed some one pitch crags that were fairly solid and several Horse Flats/Mt Pacifico quality boulders like this one. Maybe you guys can tell where it is from the background. Haven't located it yet on Google Earth. I would go back up there. (There's the Halibut Hat again)
photo not found
Missing photo ID#290968

Found a few photos of what we called Alder Creek. The pictures show about the top 1/2 to 1/3 of the crags. This may have been the trip that Sorenson and Yeary went with me? This place shows up really well on Google Earth.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#290971
photo not found
Missing photo ID#290969

We found some enjoyable boulders in Big or Little Tujunga Canyon too, near a waterfall with a cube-like formation.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#290973
photo not found
Missing photo ID#290974

Edit:
Jeff, Yes that's near Winston Peak. That might be Mt. Pinos/Frazier Mtn area in the far distance of the second photo-it was a clear day.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
awesome stuff Keith.

1st pic is near Winston Peak? I recall upthread or maybe T Yeary's Secret Stash thread showing the same crag.

Great shots of Alder Creek. I've been meaning to go back. Have not visited since about '78 or so, even though I'd mt biked on the nearby Silver Moc trail a few dozen times prior to the fire.

I'd always wanted to hike up Waterman's West Ridge just to eyeball the obscura to be found (like in your pic...).

I'd hear rumor of some crags in Big Tujunga, but never sniffed around.

So much mountains, so little rock, alas...
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Thanks for the trip down memory lane, Keith. Tobin was like a kid in a candy shop in those days.
I guess the Secret Stash was never much of a secret,eh Jeff?. There is some tall stuff down the north side of Winston.
So much choss, so little time!
TY
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
Bat.... hi. I went looking for that boulder.... it's not EZ to find.

So it's about 2 miles (east ?) of 14?

It's not visible from road??

So I should set the odometer to zero then drive 2 miles and look around.

about 100 yards?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Guy,
Let me see if I can screenshot google earth for you. I'll have to get my son to help with that first.
Back soon.

Kevin
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Guy,

Just sent you a few emails with Google Earth info. Let me know if you can make anything of it.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
THX.... everytime I drive by Burro Schmidt I think.... it's out there... someplace.
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
My daughter Caitlin getting ready for the hike to a little SD east county crag
SD Slab
SD Slab
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Slabs away!
pretty rock
pretty rock
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Warm up
Warm up
Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
Is the Mojave considered So Cal?
Castle
Castle
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Easy Choss
Easy Choss
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

TS on the Summit
TS on the Summit
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Yours Truely
Yours Truely
Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
Valley of the Moon
My buddy
My buddy
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Down from another of my solo first ascents there, well I did have my Buddy with me.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 23, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#291187

you guys know where this is
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Feb 23, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
Pacifico?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Feb 23, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Anxious, that's some lovely choss.
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Feb 23, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
10b4me - That's a little left of this place, main wall. Nice pix, Anxious.
Tony Y - Only met Tobin that one time, but it seemed he was always smiling, like a happy, really pleasant kid.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#291203

Dr.F - Some of those crags at Turtle Peaks look like they might be solid enough ?, but I've never climbed there.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 23, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
Mungeclimber, not Pacifico
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
Ant Line, Horse Flats?
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Yeah
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 24, 2013 - 10:25am PT
10b.... Horse flats....

Yes the Mojave is obscure.... lots to do.

Dr F .... Turtle Mts... can't say.

What's the big peaks one can see to the west of Vidal???

Look like fun summits
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 24, 2013 - 11:24am PT

Horse flats is not obscure...

I agree, but most people go to HF to boulder. I know people who boulder there, and have never end heard of the top rope wall
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 24, 2013 - 11:39am PT
Me and my wife go out there once a year for rock collecting trips, pink chalcedony roses, and gravel.
It's a great place for primative camping and exploring

Dr F when u say stuff like that it reminds me how kool rock hounding is!
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:54am PT
NW of Vidal Junction

Umpah
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Mopha from Umpha's summit
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Umpha's 3rd/4th class, Mopha's a bit harder.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:01am PT
Anxious....

Thank you for posting..... those babys are striking features as one drives past.
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:04am PT
A little spot below the 79 where F10 and I put up a few routes.

Descanso Falls
Descanso Falls
Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:08am PT
Picacho Peak, just north of Winterhaven. Surmounted by ladders, low 5th, and a bit of roped trickery.
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Note: I did this peak agai last month and this wood ladder has now been replaced with an aluminum one. This first, lower wood ladder remains in place

Joe, who's never been in aiders before, surmounting the lower summit on the return for the upper summit.
Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:29am PT
Thumb Butte near Palo Verde

Credit: Anxious Melancholy

Mojave Choss Fest

Credit: Anxious Melancholy
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
Those photos of the Mojave remind me of the Sinai Peninsula. Really striking. About as barren a landscape as one can image, the difference being, in the latter, people have eeked out a hardscrabble existence for thousands of years.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
A little spot below the 79 where F10 and I put up a few routes.

Where is the "79"?

Fat... PEOPLE have been living here for 10,000 years at least... just saying.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
That's Highway 79, near Descanso, CA east of San Diego.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
Guy, maybe what he is implying is that they only managed to eke out a living
in the Sinai while the people here were living large. I mean they don't call
it the 'Golden State' for nothing, right?

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

OK, not obscure although I'll wager not many of you have seen it from this perspective:
A lot of route potential on the left there!
A lot of route potential on the left there!
Credit: Reilly

And how many have visited this little gem across the lake?

Regional Indian Museum
Credit: Reilly

There's these right above the parking lot:
Credit: Reilly

For yer edification:
Credit: Reilly
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
Reilly, have they still got a picnic table at the base of that big rock?

Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
Guyman, Offwhite's got the general vicinity correct.....heading north from highway 8 and between Descanso and Oakzanita.

Another view of it.
Credit: Anxious Melancholy

And a little pinnacle just up the road, past Green Valley campground
Credit: Anxious Melancholy
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 25, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Thanx.... I don't get down in SD much. My Grandparents were instrumental in the original development of Rancho Bernardo, way way back when one could ride a mini-bike east with out anybody getting uptight.

Been thinking about figuring out the camping scene, climbing scene, after all the post here about the cool climbing.

F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
AM at Descanso Falls


Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Northern SD Country. Rainbow Heights.

Google Maps does not accurately show the 60’ granite face above Rice Canyon Road.

I’ve yet to set foot on the actual routes. Sniffed around it’s summit a couple times.
Last year visited a near-by homeowner and he’d previously TR’d it.

Just one more obscura on the bucket list. Got to get it before the landowner builds a house on it’s summit again
(the burnt foundation of the previous home is clearly obvious).

Anybody in Temec? Please come back and write up a clandestine trip report.

Credit: Sewellymon

Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Computer analysis, complete.
Computer analysis, complete.
Credit: Spider Savage

I'm about ready to give this choss pile a go.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
Credit: TYeary
Credit: TYeary
Credit: TYeary
Credit: TYeary
Obscura, for sure.
TY
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 26, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Off...is that you on the right?

So Spider. A Texas Canyon clone???

TY.... some place in the AF?

Lots of rockpiles on Mt. Waterman, Rincon and I hiked from around where the Horse Flat road leaves the Crest Hwy... Pacific crest trail for a bit... around to the south faceing side of Waterman. Up hill for about 30 min to a formation .... a crack running right up it, it went about 10b, no pinscars nothing. I wish we hauled a camera, I can't believe no one has claimed the FA. It was a FA for us.

keep em coming.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Feb 26, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
any pictures of the Orange Boulder that was up behind the school on the El Modena grade?
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 26, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
Yes, circa 1977.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Mar 10, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
FAs fer Days
Ground up bolting
Ground up bolting
Credit: Tfish
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 11, 2013 - 12:13am PT
So nothing fits in those cracks?
JMC

climber
the land of milk and honey
Mar 11, 2013 - 04:47am PT
TFish, is that up Big T somewhere?
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Mar 11, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
I have a cam in below me, and the other cracks are really thin seams, I put a piton in one real quick, but nothing else would work. And then the vertical crack at the top looks like it could break the rock if you fell on a cam.

Yeah, up near there.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Mar 11, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
Mike Harbison on Hercules Finger, High Desert.
Mike Harbison on Hercules Finger, High Desert.
Credit: TYeary
Great fun!
TY
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 11, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
^^cock rock

Tfish - Did you finish it & have you sent it clean?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 11, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
That ground up bolting pic needs to go in the ground up thread.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 11, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
All SD County, don't have much time for shooting climbers on routes, but...

Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Eagle Peak
Eagle Peak
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Corte Madera
Corte Madera
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
The only place I've seen Madrone in San Diego County
The only place I've seen Madrone in San Diego County
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Mar 12, 2013 - 12:36am PT
Matty, Nah not yet, it started pouring on us so we left.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Mar 12, 2013 - 08:42am PT
Somewhere in the S. Cal desert
Somewhere in the S. Cal desert
Credit: can't say
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Mar 13, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
Another ground up FA. Trad gear for the whole route, and bolted anchors from a stance. It went at 5.9.
Credit: Tfish
Bolting anchors
Bolting anchors
Credit: Tfish
My babe TRing it
My babe TRing it
Credit: Tfish
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Thinking of heading up to the Tunnel Crag this week. The last time I climbed there was probably 15 years ago. I'm looking for some new route info. I saw a guide recently online but the resolution was pretty poor. It looks like there are a tone of new routes and I'd like to have some idea what I'm jumping on. Any new guided out there or at least a link with better resolution?

Thanks
jstn

Trad climber
monrovia, ca
Jun 22, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
Credit: jstn
Credit: jstn
Credit: jstn

I saw no signs of previous climbing. Most stuff is short with bad landings. Many problems would be quite stout. Stone is good to excellent. A few fun moderates, including a finger crack. 10-15 feet make up most, maybe a couple 20 footers.

Vetter Mountain. Wait for winter and hit it up for some FA's
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
I was looking on google earth for rock up the crest and saw Vetter and it looked like it had a huge slab, but when I went there it was flat. But I climbed a few of the boulders and they were pretty cool. The rock was chossy in some spots from the fire, but def a fun day of climbing.


I went to this choss pile the other day. Even the holds that were reinforced with glue with breaking off.
So Cal Choss.
So Cal Choss.
Credit: Tfish
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 11, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
ah my fav thread. road to Mt Pacifico open yet?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 11, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
T-fish.... is that the Mt. Wilson, tripper spot??????

10b4me

Ice climber
Middle-of-Nowhere, Arizona
Jul 11, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Jeff, the Pacifico road is NOT open(as of two weeks ago). It was supposedly going to open on May 25th.

yeah, looks like TJs place.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Yeah it's near Wilson. It's by the big U turn after swtizers, but before Red Box/Mt Wilson Road.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 11, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Jack says it's good... but not much below 5.10...
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Its a cool looking spot, but the route we did was prolly the worst quality rock I've climbed. Maybe the other lines are better, but I'm not going back there. And yeah, this was the easiest line there at like 10d/11a.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Is that Jack's Crag?
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
I have like 2 more routes to bolt and then I'll be dropping details about my secret socal spot with like 15 routes from 5.7-5.11a.

Tori rapping off from the midway anchors
Tori rapping off from the midway anchors
Credit: Tfish
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 11, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
I have like 2 more routes to bolt and then I'll be dropping details about my secret socal spot with like 15 routes from 5.7-5.11a.


Cool let me know, looking FWD to them
ß Î Ř T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Jul 13, 2013 - 01:35am PT
I lived at Snow Creek (NW of Palm Springs) for about a year in the late 80s. There is alot of very good boulders (and some multi-pitch potential) all over the place.
(San Jacinto seen in left background)
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Aug 26, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
2 more obscure pics. FA of a rad undercling to a slab up Angeles Crest on super bomber granite and a trad lead at Crystal Lake.

FA at a secret spot
FA at a secret spot
Credit: Tfish

Trad climbing at Crystal Lake
Trad climbing at Crystal Lake
Credit: Tfish
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Would it be evil if I put this crag on MountainProject.com?

Computer analysis, complete.
Computer analysis, complete.
Credit: Spider Savage
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 26, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
Would it be evil if I put this crag on MountainProject.com?

No not at all.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Sep 5, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
Rock!
Rock!
Credit: Tfish
jstn

Trad climber
monrovia, ca
Oct 6, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
Tfish, right on that you went to Vetter.
I saw that huge slab from the road and was pretty psyched, but as you mentioned it was basically flat.

Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 10, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
The road to pacfico was open today! I didn't go up there but saw the gate was open.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 10, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
I found a cool boulder up Angeles Crest Today. It was all wet so I didnt try it, but it looks really fun. It looks like it has mainly V0s and a few V2-V4s with easy top outs. It's right off the side of the road.
Drive exactly 1 mile past islip saddle and it's on the right (south) side of the road. Theres a small turnout to park in too.

Side view
Side view
Credit: Tfish
Credit: Tfish
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Oct 10, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
I know that rock!
We were bouldering on it about a month or so, ago. Me, jeff, and guy did a few problems on the right side. Top outs on the left side would need to be swept off, or it would be way sketchy with all the gravel and rocks on top.
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Dec 28, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Looks like it's near Spring Crag.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
May 15, 2014 - 10:35pm PT
Bat & Spider on Tongue & Groove 5.6d, Wildwoody Wall.
Bat & Spider on Tongue & Groove 5.6d, Wildwoody Wall.
Credit: Spider Savage
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 01:06am PT
Nice Chris, I'm heading up to Bishop Pass for a little back country skiing tomorrow, when I get back I'll add some more holds to the wall. We should get together at Brand for a evening session next week.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 16, 2014 - 02:13am PT
That Tfish choss pic is, umm, messy.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
May 29, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
Choss bump

Credit: Sewellymon
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jun 5, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
It's always rad finding amazing rock when there's so much choss.
Almost to the top of the second pitch
Almost to the top of the second pitch
Credit: Tfish
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jun 9, 2014 - 10:28am PT
Bolted a real fun 10d on some J Tree rock up the crest.

New 10d up the crest
New 10d up the crest
Credit: Tfish
Tori working it on TR
Tori working it on TR
Credit: Tfish
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 2, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
I found this chossy beast today. A few fun V0-V2s and a burly little off width crack.
Crazy dike boulder
Crazy dike boulder
Credit: Tfish

Edit- this thing might have been better, but the fire messed it up. I'm def the first person to climb it for awhile. I was flaking stuff off all over the place.
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Oct 2, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
Hey, isn't that the rock right next to the AFH about a 1/2 mile from Clear Creek Station? I've looked at it a million times, but never stopped!
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 07:42am PT
Yep it's right there.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
Just found another new crag today. No signs of other climbers except for 1 hanger less star drive bolt about 5 feet up. It looked like a bailed ground up attempt. The fire really messed up the rock, and it's really flaky, but I cleaned up some lines today. Can't wait to go lead them on trad gear. The rock is really similar to J Tree, it looks and feels the same and the formations and cracks are similar too.
Not J Tree
Not J Tree
Credit: Tfish
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
God damn you're good.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 3, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
worthy choss hunting bump
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 3, 2014 - 10:37pm PT
Skip and I were just complaining today about how the rock around Bishop is not nearly as chossy as we prefer - missing the SoCal looseness...

a little...
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Oct 4, 2014 - 07:39am PT
Angeles National Monument. :^) Nice scenery photo, Jeff.
San Gabriel Mtns. near Pacifico
San Gabriel Mtns. near Pacifico
Credit: Don Hunter
Ray Palmer and I climbed the boltless run out graveled (south ?) side of Pacifico ca 1969. We tied off a KB and pounded in a stubby Leeper for pro. Paul and I revisited in '85.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#380813
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Oct 4, 2014 - 08:48am PT
Tfish that one really got fried bt the fire. I climbed the slabby face up the west side once. Couldn't find much else to do, just bouldering it. If you go up the ridge you'll find more stuff. Not far up is a rock with a small roof that would be a good tr or lead maybe, but it's only like 20 feet. Then much farther up is some good formations in an awesome location. Not huge stuff, but excellent rock. Guy and I tr'd a really good crack climb and some other lines. From there drop down the north side towards the road and there are more rocks. One has a bolted face climb that has a josh feel to it. You can see it from the 2 when you're heading down from the 6000' gate.
Crack climb <br/>
10.d
Crack climb
10.d
Credit: rincon
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Oct 4, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
Did i already say i love this thread?

Wish ANF had the sort of rock found in CO's South Plate. We, by comparison, are rummaging thru table scraps.

Pacifico has some less frequented rock on it's NW side.

I recall seeing on the Web 10 years ago a photo of a nicely knobby 5.7 face being TR'd on Waterman. Never seen hide nor hair of anything resembling it since.

I keep telling myself that I will conduct a solo TR mission to revisit the Alder Creek crags. Now that I am older and 5.7 is the new 5.10, I think it could be fun again. Just have to wait until the rattlers are dormant. Hope the poodle bush doesn't get me.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Oct 5, 2014 - 10:17am PT
Rincon, I haven't gone all the way up to that crack yet. I've done the bolted line on that one by the 6,000ft mark. I also bolted a 10d on the side of that rock too.

At the 3 points all the cracks were pretty fun. I'm going back today to climb them again.

Is this the short one you were talking about? I saw it but didn't hop on it. It looks fun.
Layback to roof
Layback to roof
Credit: Tfish



I still haven't been to Alder Creek yet, I've heard a ton about it though.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Oct 5, 2014 - 11:01am PT
Lots of fun boulders scattered along the ridge east of 3 Points. A bit of hiking involved but a beautiful place in general.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 5, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
Looking for partners to explore this stuff a few times per month. Mr Savage?

I live close enough for Angeles Crest to be an after-work crag in the summer and easy half-days on winter weekends. Anyone else like to head up there these days?
jeff constine

Social climber
Marina Del Rey
Oct 5, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
Tunnels From The Air.
Tunnels From The Air.
Credit: jeff constine
From The Air..
From The Air..
Credit: jeff constine
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Oct 5, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
Nice view of the crag Jeff.
rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Oct 5, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
Yep, that's the one tfish.

Hey Jeff nice shot!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Oct 5, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
Yay. Jeff is back.

Nujob... I'm down. Maybe we can get Batrock and Tfish and make it a foursome.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 5, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
Woo whoo!
Jeff is back!
Tunnel Rock Rulz!
jeff constine

Social climber
Marina Del Rey
Oct 6, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
Guyman & Rincon  looking down from 3rd pitch, Tunnels.
Guyman & Rincon looking down from 3rd pitch, Tunnels.
Credit: jeff constine
jeff constine

Social climber
Marina Del Rey
Oct 6, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
Tbird leading the 2nd pitch of High Exposure 5.10a
Tbird leading the 2nd pitch of High Exposure 5.10a
Credit: jeff constine