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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2005 - 02:01am PT
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Way back when, I used to climb at a place called Mt Pacifico. I am sure some will remember the spot. Put up a few runout bolt routes but mostly climbed whatever would accept pro. I remember running into a bunch of rattlesnakes there. Before I had my drivers liscence I had to con friends into driving up there. If they didn't have a 4x4 the trip usualy involved a flat tire or a hole in the oil pan, fixes with a pine branch shoved in the hole.
Another spot that I climbed once was Strawberry Peaks North Face. With a copy of Mendenhalls 1935 topo in hand we did a route called Strawberry Roam. Loose rock, rockfall and ice is all I remember from the climb. We did it on New years Day.
Anyone else have some obscure areas in So Cal they remember from there youth?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Dec 22, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
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While I never did routes at Pacifico, I did boulder there a few times. Spectacular views!
I remember in about 1975 we hiked down to this absolute choss pile off Angeles Crest Hwy and looked at a few poorly placed bolts. Turns out to have become a very popular place once 3/8" bolts showed up. Too bad it is going to get closed because of some frog.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Dec 22, 2005 - 01:57pm PT
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Having moved to the Antelope Valley from San Diego many years ago, I know all about So Cal Obscura !! Williamson, Pacifica, and a host of other boulder piles in the San Gabriels. I still climb from time to time at Devil's Punchbowl. It's the freakiest rock I've ever encountered....pebbles loosely afixed to granulated sugar!! What is funny is the area has been well developed in recent years and there are actually some decent routes. Still, I prefer taking the extra two hours and heading for JTree or the Needles. Has anybody ever checked out the large granite boulders in the rolling hills Southeast of Bakersfield ?? I believe it's Tejon Ranch property. Looks really good!
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Dec 22, 2005 - 04:18pm PT
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just outside the trunnels 2 miles past williamson on hwy 2 has a few loose 5.9 to 5 12 sport routes i've climbed.
Texas canyon (in the socal quide) actually has a fun and long
5.11a not listed in the quide. and other long routes on the opposing boulder
Horse flats is a great bouldering area in the angeles forest.
a couple of hard free routes 2 miles up the trail on an 80ft granite face if you know where to look.
i heard Robbins/Chouinard put up lines at pacifico. i found some ancient hangers last time there.
beautiful setting and clean granite but short routes. worth the 2 mile dirtroad 1/2 mile walk-in if you haven't yet been. IMO
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 04:25pm PT
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My dad took me to Pacifico when I was a kid. He climbed there back in the early 60's He also climbed Williamson back then too. He told me the only thing they climbed back then was the giant chimmney. I have some old prints of my dad rappeling the Waterfall Wall in the 60's.
I know the wall at Horseflats. Counted 8 rattlesnakes at the base of that wall one morning. Freaked me out. Was belaying my partner and looked down at my feet and saw one, then started looking around and they were all over. The sun was warmoing the rocks and they were coming out to sun themselves.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Dec 22, 2005 - 05:04pm PT
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There is also Nellis Canyon but we aren't supposed to talk about it. I am not even sure how the access is at this point. It's pretty strange to climb on the rocks imbedded in the rock and not actually to touch the rock itself because it is too soft. Levy would be the one to talk about it though.
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Dec 22, 2005 - 05:55pm PT
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Nellis Cyn. associated with Nellis AFB?
Kevin, thanks for the Strawberry Peak topo & route info - haven't gotten up there yet, but looking forward to an exciting time. Pacifico is a wild place - first time I ever placed gear on lead. There's a dirt road that connects Chilao Flats with Mt Hillyer/Sulfur Springs Road - there are some TR routes on the hillside just below.
Also, is there anything in the upper reaches of Big Tujunga Cyn?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 06:13pm PT
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Big Tujunga is a interesting place. I have kayaked from Camp Colby down through the Narrows to just above the resivoir several times. I have noticed that the rock down near river level is pretty solid although very polished, routes could go well over 150'. There are probably some good aid lines down in the Narrows but the higher you get the worse the rock gets. Still a fun hike and an even better in a kayak.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Dec 22, 2005 - 06:41pm PT
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Not Nellis AFB. It's off Angeles Forest iirc how to get there. You get a 2 second glimpse from the northbound 14.
There is of course some good climbing in the desert too. Most is out towards Lucerne.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 22, 2005 - 06:43pm PT
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Pacifico first in '74 for me. It's between Angeles Crest and Angeles Forest Highways.
Arroyo Seco, boulders.
Millard Canyon Aid route est by Lynn Kroll, 1969?
Freeway Cracks at Arcadia/Monrovia border eastbound 210 exit Huntington, take the next three rights to under the freeway, hands to fingers, nasty hard, 12 + but still cake for Brett from the couch.
Various temporary Ice Climbs in the Angelus Forest.
Santa Suzana Pass
"Afrika"
From the very old original Vogel bouldering Guidebook there are several areas including the beach, lIttle Corona Del Mar.
Chilao Flats, tr and bouldering, great beginner/1st dayer hang in the summer.
Mt. Rooobidough : ) (sorry no french)
Big Rock- Has anyone repeated "no hope without rope" since Grant Carlson?
20 minutes from woodson there is a 120 ft clean dead verticle to overhanging wall, on private land. sssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhh!
Bouldering in the "meadows" south of Idyllwild
Kong Boulder
Purple Stones
Malibu Canyon- planet of the apes wall
Point Dume
El Matador
Sespe Creek, a real pile
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Dec 22, 2005 - 06:47pm PT
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camp colby to the resivour in a kayak?
hats off dude.
how the hell did you make it through monkey canyon and the 30 foot falls shortly thereafter?
shame what the gangs did to the walls up there. spaypaint on trees and rocks, WTF?
used to be a great place to get naked, cliffdive and ponder ones youth.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 08:19pm PT
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Pud,
I have run everything including the falls at Monkey Canyon. The 30' falls downstream is a little more difficult and I have not worked up the nerve to run that yet. Down in the Narrows below the big bridge is another BIG falls that I portage on the right but I am sure some boater with bigger balls than mine would give it a go. It is a shame about the graffiti. When kayaking on the East and West Fork of the San Gabriel River I have actualy seen bangers spray painting the rocks as we flaoted by. If I had more than a lifevest on for protection I may have said something. Los Angeles Ghetto boating at it's finest.
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10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
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Dec 22, 2005 - 08:58pm PT
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Robbins did put up routes at Pacifico back in the day.
I did my first aid climb there a few years ago.
that's a fun mtn bike ride from Chilao to Pacifico.
re: snakes at horse flats. yeah, I've seen lots of 'em.
most memorable trip was on the Y crack. after topping out, another dude climbs it doing some jams. next thing you know is he says something is moving in the crack. all of a sudden he whips his hand out of the crack and he's got hold of a rattler,
flings into the nearest tree. pretty awesome.
anybody here climb at Alder Creek? Tobin put some routes there back in the day. That rock is super polished.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Dec 22, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
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When I was Rajmit's age we pushed through the brush up-hill from Big Rock and found an overhanging arching crack with some fresh piton scars, threw a top-rope over and fooled around on it. That same year we did the same thing at Riverside Quarry. Too loose and dangerous for our tastes, plus too much of a trash dump. Now I see there is a guide-book of Riv-Quar for sale. I wonder if it's cleaned up any in the last 23 years. I doubt it.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2005 - 09:43pm PT
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Nellis? I think I know the crag. Driving up the 14 toward Acton you get quick glimpse of it off to the right. Looks huge from the 14. Never been there but I am sure my wife is tired of me telling her I need to go check that out someday.
Alder Creek is a tributary of Big T. right? I have boated some of that and noticed some rock down in that drainage when up on Pacifico.
Sespe Creek has some huge stuff way down in the gorge miles from nowhere. If anyone is interested I have some shots of when I rafted it from Lions Camp to Filmore this last spring. There has to be the biggest boulders in California down in there. We spent 4 days making the descent. I can email some shots, dont know how to post pics on this board.
I also did a few solo bolt routes on some crags on Hwy 2 just below Mt Waterman on the ridge to your right as you head up to the hairpins just below Waterman. Not worth the effort to hike to though.
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Dapper Dan
climber
The OC
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Dec 23, 2005 - 12:07am PT
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might not be too obscure since a certain blond flamboyant soloist ws recently filmed there , but it's called tic rock . its near santa monica and it has a few decent routes... the approach is great , rock quality was pretty good . dogs of war.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2005 - 12:53am PT
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I have noticed the NFS is getting lazy with opening the Pacifico Rd. The last few years it has been closed for much of the year. In the summer due to fire danger and then in the winter due to snow. I think it's just easier for them to keep it closed and put up with a few unhappy climbers.
One of my favorite climbs on Pacifico is straight up the main face veering to the left and out a small roof protected by giant chickenheads. Up and to the right of the main face is a shallow dihedral with that takes some small pro and goes over a short overhang near the top. Between those two is a climb that ascends a pillar starting in a chimney then traversing out onto the pillar and climbing on sparse pro to the top.
I gotta get back up there. There are so many fun climbs up there and probably a few more to be discoverd or rediscovered.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 23, 2005 - 01:48am PT
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Lucerne Limestone,Section 6,Margeritiville,DMZ Giant Rock,Guadalupe Reservoir Nor Cal,Conway Summit,Copper Mt.Quarry UCSC.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 23, 2005 - 03:05am PT
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Guadalupe! hahahaha!
Site of some of my early toproping antics. Still have fond memories of that little rock. We'd hit it up after the morning sesh at pleasure point or the hook.
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Dec 23, 2005 - 10:53am PT
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The Pacifico Road has a minor wash-out at the east end (near Horse Flats) - consequently, gate is shut at both ends. The Forest Circus has no scheduled repair date.
-John
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Dec 23, 2005 - 12:00pm PT
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Sewellymon,
I knew you'd be able to fill in some other details. Baldy Bowl boulder -yeah! bouldered a little on that in my randonee boots and running shoes, always wanted to haul a rope up there. Maybe this year...
Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?
More Strawberry Peak - in Strawberry Potrero (below the N. Face - trail goes through here) there is some great bouldering. Watch out for poison oak, though.
Chilao Flats - X15X15 tacked up some aid lines on the largest wall - just follow the streambed down, and you'll get to it. A good place to make your palms sweat. Bouldering never seemed that good to me, but maybe I was missin' something. There looks like more good rock further downstream, probably worth a hike.
-John Canby
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Dapper Dan
climber
The OC
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Dec 23, 2005 - 12:01pm PT
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anyone ever been to purple stones ? off mulholland somewhere i think......
i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Dec 23, 2005 - 12:59pm PT
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Yeah, I've climbed at Purple Stones. Park just out of town (towards the beach) and walk down to the creek. Parking is kinda iffy though (maybe illegal now). Hard, thin, edgy problems are the norm.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Dec 23, 2005 - 04:47pm PT
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Bill Elevenballs knows all the beta for purple stones.
And, Mike Waugh.
There are a few places to park.
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10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
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Dec 23, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
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Alder Creek - where do you park/hike in from?
The former Meadows cg in the Chilao area
i wonder if williamson's closure will mean way more people at Echo ?
I think all the sport climbers will start bolting the boulder problems at HF.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 23, 2005 - 09:33pm PT
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oh- good glacial erratic (25' hi?) on the mt blady trail 1/2 mile above the sierra club hut.
I wondered when someone was going to bring that one up.
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Dapper Dan
climber
The OC
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Dec 24, 2005 - 04:07pm PT
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wow if we get into the SB's then we're talking literally dozens of pristine crags.....many obscure
Some fav's : Holcomb Valley - awesome bolt clipping on Jtree like rock
Arctic temple : Beautiful long moderate cracks
The Narrows : A beautiful face next to an awesome swimming hole...
SB's are amazing and the bivy's are easy and freindly
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2005 - 04:44pm PT
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For those wondering what lies in th ePiru drainage go to
http://www.sierraphotography.com/creeking/ Go to list of runs and click on Piru Creek Frenchmans Flat to Lake Piru. Scroll down to the slide show.
All of my experience with Piru and Sespe has been kayaking and not climbing. The inner gorge of Sespe Creek has the biggest potential, especialy for bouldering but it is way deep in there. Tar Creek is nothing compared to what lies upstream.
For Sespe pics check out
http://www.ptone.com/Kayak/Sespe2/
http://www.cacreeks.com/sespe.htm
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Dec 26, 2005 - 10:55am PT
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Nellus canyon has access problems for 15 years. There is a very unfriendly landowner who refused to allow access to the rock. He only owns some of the climbable rock but most of the best routes are on his property. I have been escorted off the property before but there is a 150' .11a with 17 bolts there called Cliptomaniac there on superb rock. It is on the West face of the middle formation. You access it from a gully on the west side, from the notch between the North and middle formations. On the North face of the middle formation. there are 2 routes. Airloom- .11d ,12 bolts and Falcon's Col- .11a 8 or 9 bolts. There are about 40 or 45 routes at Nellus but only a dozen or so are truly good. Want more info? Write me here & I'll give you the 411.
There is another crag(The Electromagnetic Rocks) a few miles to the East of Nellus near the Shambala Preserve. A 20 minute uphill slog gains the ridge that has the best 5.11 crack in LA County, bring gear 3/4" to 3" with extra 1 - 2" pro. It's 70 feet long and the rock is great. More potential for hard routes are here for motivated climbers capable of 5.13 routes.
Purple Stones- This superb area has seen few visitors in recent years with the popularity of the sport climbing at Malibu & Echo but has the best quality stone in the Santa Monicas. There is a problem there I did called Ultraviolet which is perhaps the hardest boulder problem I've ever done (V9?). It has two one finger edges a nickle wide each you must lanuch a huge dyno from. I've never seen anybody else ever stick that move, which is followed by bold 5.11 to the top over a career ending landing. Good stuff!
Another area worthy of mention is Lake Los Angeles(AKA: No Jack City). There are some nice rocks here on Josh-like Monzonite. My friends & I called the place No Jack City, since when we went there there would be no "Jack" to be seen or heard! Highlights include Flycatcher- .10d 7 bolts, on the western slopes,and Ham-Don-Boo .12 b 3 bolts on an overhanging wall facing the parking area, and Old Folks Dome with 3 routes in the 5.10c to 5.11 b/c range. Lots of bouldering all over the place. There are more routes than I've listed but time & space restricts this to a few tidbits. This is a nice, warm place with more potential for new routes.
Other Obscurites in Socal would have to include the Batcave on Castle Peak in West Hills/Canoga Park. 10 routes from 10.b to .13 c on a conglomerate sandstone that has a depositional veneer of limestone with tufas and colonettes almost like real limestone. Not bad for being 15 minutes from Valley Circle & Vanowen.
Levy
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shakey legs
Trad climber
san diego ca
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Dec 26, 2005 - 03:01pm PT
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Dave good call on Corte Madera tough to get to however, big exposed and quality rock. There is a two pitch 5.9 off width that you rap into. Do you know what it is called?
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Dapper Dan
climber
The OC
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Dec 26, 2005 - 07:41pm PT
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has anyone ever climbed at Mormon rocks off Hwy. 15 on the way to wrightwood . the rock looks awesome but it could just be a mirage of choss , i can't tell . they always shoot lame SUV ads there...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Dec 27, 2005 - 01:05am PT
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Hart Park (in Orange) for realz!!!
The amphitheatre light socket traverse
The pool archway
The retaining wall behind the bathrooms (Jean Fradette would do that traverse in his cowboy boots!!- that guy deserves credit for keeping me climbing. Nicest guy in the OC.)
The tile glue ups (my first tendonitis experience, thx Lou ;))
The ceramic glue ups continuation my bro Tim and I put up that he made in a ceramics class in high school. Back in the day when we got the real Cal Trans type 'bots buttons' epoxy.
57 Freeway traverse and up routes
Good times spending lazy summer afternoons in the shade down there traversing over sand landings. Another Louie creation with the help of Jeff Archer and Jeff Jarvi. Jarvi made this cool aluminum machined rings you had to pull on. Soo slippery. I remember adding an extension that made the whole traverse go some 200' total. Then one day cal trans chopped the traverse. To this day I wish I had something like that up here in Nor Cal.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Dec 27, 2005 - 12:20pm PT
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Dapper Dan,
I've played around at Mormon Rocks thinking the same as you. Total Choss!! Some rescue outfit uses it for rappelling training. That's about all it's good for.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Dec 27, 2005 - 12:23pm PT
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Used to climb at Corde Madera years ago when I lived in San Diego. Did a climb called Crap Duster which was OK, but really showed the exposure on this nice chunk of rock. Remember getting completely dehydrated on the hike out. Bring plenty of water cause there's nothing out there.
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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in masters of stone 3 there is a segment with some dudes doing some urban climbing here in LA . included is a gnarly looking roof traverse in a storm drain and some sport pulling on what looks to be a freeway overpass support pillar . anyone know if the artificial stuff still exists ? and yea the stuff at Hart park sucks....
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Checked out Nellus/Three Sisters on Saturday - ran in via the PCT trail off of Soledad Cyn. Man, that's a tough place to poach - access is tough (SCE property on the East, ranch on the right), lot of activity at the ranch. I ran out on semi-private dirt roads due south - road is gated off, so you wouldn't be able to drive in. Requires serious motivation to climb there. Rock looks cool though...
On Sunday, climbed at another place fading into obscurity - the Sport Boulder by Big Rock. There was a little chalk on the start of the 11a arete, but that was it. I think the quarry has taken away any traffic from this 4-bolt-high wonder.
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Anybody ever climb at Big rock at Perris lake? Nice place to take kids or your new girlfriend.
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Yo JMC i was at big rock yesterday , where is the sport boulder in relation to the main wall ? is it any good ? is it a pain to get to ? I've never seen the lake so low......
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JMC
Trad climber
So Cal
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Dapper Dan,
Climbed at Big Rock yesterday, as well.
Sport Boulder is not hard to get to - About 1 mile west of the Big Rock/park turnoff, there is turnoff (same side as Big Rock), and a short (2-300 yd) road that ends in a turnaround/circle. The sport boulder is directly uphill: a 5-10 min. hike. Easy bushwacking, no trail. Large granite boulder with funky dark inclusions.
For more Big Rock area stuff, just uphill of Big Rock, on the west side, there is a large boulder in the canyon with a handful of bolted routes on it, 2-5 minute hike to this one. I know there's even more miscellany in the area, but that's all I've been to.
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jamatt
Social climber
Asheville, NC
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huasna
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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We climbed at a scruffy little crag in the fall of 1983, on Angeles Crest Hwy. Old rusty bolts. It was "rediscovered" in 1988 and known as Williamson Rock. Found it in Herzog's old SCal guidebook. Also, climbed on the north side of Strawberry Peak & in the Twin Peaks area.
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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I have climbed all of the crest for over 25 years. Alder Creek was one of my favorites. It had everything bouldering, top roping, short aid climbs and the best of all 160 foot lead climbs on good rock.
Alder Creek has as I remember has three benches, aka water falls. Then after the last one you walk awhile and you come to a cross canyon. This is were you will find the lead climbs. There are three to four good climbs the hardest one being about 5.10a.
This is a place for a good adventure. Just bring plenty of water, and watch out for the stinging nettles.
If you need more information on how to find this place, drop me an e mail.
mmm
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Here are two fun little bolders I just found the other day I'm sure they've been done a million times though.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Just got back from up there, it's HOT!!!!!!!
Getting down the creek looks harder than before the fire. I did not try, only walked through the old CG and down the creek a ways. I'm not sure but it looks like that Poodle Bush stuff is everywhere, and I don't want to go near that stuff. I could be mis-identifying it though.
6 or 7 years ago I tried real hard to find some climbing in Adler Creek after being shown a topo. I went down there two times, found an old pin or two and some 5.8ish looking crack, but never found the main wall that was in the topo.Long time ago now, but as I remember there were a few .11's on the wall I was looking for.If you guys do a fall clean-up I might show up just to see where some of them climbs are.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Baldy Boulders. A true obscurity...
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Tobin was pretty active in Alder Creek bitd also. last time I was there was six or seven years ago doing some aid climbing. the sandy bottoms were still there.
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RtM
climber
DHS
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I have had the opportunity of bouldering Baldy alot in years past. Surreal glassy rock, the v8's look like they would be 5.8
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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All of the stuff in the Hunk Guide (except The Beach).
Buffalo Chip,
5 Minute Crag
Orange Boulders
Black Star Boulder
All about as obscure as it gets and still having a tiny modicum of climbability.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Mt. Pacifico a long time ago:
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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Wow! this thread really rose from the dead.
Funny that with all the climbing I have done in Angeles Crest, Williamson, Pacifico, North Face of Straberry Creek and stuff around Twin Peaks, I never got around to Alder Creek except to Kayak a few miles of it before it enters Big Tujunga Creek. How far up the creek is the climbing?
Muir,
The shot of the San Dimas overpass brings back memories. I climbed there with Troy and Curt Lyons. It got kinda loud when the trains went by but it was still fun. We got rained off the Vampire one day and went back to San Dimas and climbed the underpass, sucked after climbing on smooth white granite but it was still climbing.
How about the 210fwy overpass? Those were some fun routes.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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4th of July - 1 hour from Ventura...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Is Sespe Gorge considered obscure? I don't know. Maybe. Fun though.
Also, didn't the Buffalo Chip get demolished by a housing development? I remember hitting that a couple of times en route to the Beach before all the new homes, which is kind of the history of that area unfortunately.
I just went to Baldy on Sunday with the intent of bouldering, but it was so hot I hit the gym and hiked instead.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mtn bikers had a bunch of run-ins with him, if I am not mistaken. Me being one of them. I didn't see any shotgun, but I was approached by some shaggy looking dude in a battered pickup with a couple of angry looking dogs in the back. I think he was disappointed I didn't turn around and he didn't hassle me, but it does give the area a weird vibe.
It's a shame. A nice mt. bike ride to a nice looking boulder.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Johnny K.
climber
Southern California
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Most of the larger baldy boulders that are on the bouldering circuit from back in the day behind the school are slathered and covered in axle grease.Along with vulgar anti climbing phrases graffitied all over them.It is a shame.(Private property owners)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Most of the larger baldy boulders that are on the bouldering circuit from back in the day behind the school are slathered and covered in axle grease.Along with vulgar anti climbing phrases graffitied all over them.It is a shame.(Private property owners) Jeez. What morons. Defacing their own property to dissuade others from entering onto it. Real smart.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Pud, what are we looking at there?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Here's a few not so obscure spots
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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I gotchur obscur right here:
Wildwood Pebble - Burbank
J. Paul Pebble - Malibu
Griffith Park - Old Zoo bouldering
Arroyo Seco boulder at the first bridge past the houses.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Pud, what are we looking at there?
Corpse Wall aka Saddle Peak in the Santa Monica's
Rincon, what would you rate "ant line"?
That's just West of the Horse Flats pkg lot up the creek a 1/4 mile or so right?
Scary lead for me once ; )
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Rincon, what would you rate "ant line"?
That's just West of the Horse Flats pkg lot up the creek a 1/4 mile or so right?
Scary lead for me once ; )
I'm thinking the book is correct with 11+...we were happy to have a toprope, since neither Guy or myself got it clean when we were there a few weeks ago. FWIW, it's rated 10d on RC.com, but 11c on MP. Nice lead!
I park at the upper area, about a 1/2/mile past the Horse Flats CG entrance, then approach from above, but since the fire, it's hard to find the right spot to leave the trail, lots of downed trees.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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It's super easy to get to the TR wall at horse flats from the top way in. Park at roseneta saddle and then hike up the steep hill then it goes flat for a bit and then make a left just before you get to 2 boulders, one on both sides of the trail (someone posted a pic of the boulder on the right side like 10 comments back) Then just follow that trail and it will put you at the top of the TR wall.
It's a lot easier than starting at campsites 1,2,3 and hiking up and bush wacking.
And for sure 11+ that thing must be so wild to lead!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Hey spider I already posted 2 pics of the arroyo boulders. I just found them like a month ago, they are fun for being so close. Everytime Ive been there it's been covered with spiders, do you have anything to do with that?
Where's the Wildwood one in Burbank? Is it worth checking out after work one day or is it fenced off or on private land or something now?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2011 - 12:19am PT
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Spider, who put the anchor bolts on top of Wildwood Pebble? Seems the ground level has raised, sand washed down and settled at the base.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Re: Wildwood pebble - Drive to the top of Wildwood Canyon Park, Burbank. Walk through the roundabout at the end and into the wash, go left about 100 ft. Can't miss it.
I've been meaning to take a picture and post it on MP with all the route names and stuff. Traverse all the way and it's almost 5.9. Zodiak 5.4 up the left center looks like a mini Zodiak with the big light gray diamond. The Prow 5.7 kinda overhanging on the right.
I started climbing there in 1988 when I found it. I'd go up there in the winter and coax the stream over to unbury the base of it. Just flip a rock here and there and added 2-3 ft to the overall height.
There were bolts when I first got there. Two. One on a cracking block on the summit and another one in a rock that was about 100 lbs and not attached to anything. I might have replaced one, I don't recall. I'll have to go back up there after work and take a picture. Check it out.
I lived in the neighborhood there for 15 years. I thought I'd, ya know, develop it, turn it into a big destination like Troy did with Williamson. Id' put out a guide, get rich from royalties. But I was too lazy and got bored with the whole "project."
EDIT: If anyone is planning to drive an hour to find a good boulder - think again, It's 10-12 ft tall and about 18 ft wide. Fractured gneiss, with a touch of poison oak.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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A couple of cool, obscure boulders i've been to is the Norco Slab off of McKinley Ave. in Norco/Corona area. Also the San Dimas Canyon Boulder is good for a little burn.
How about the supposed 5.14 put up in Lower San Antonio Canyon?
Are there any routes on those red crags above Barrett Stoddard Truck Trail above the houses before the gate? (Not Barrett Canyon proper, I know that's a choss pile and i've got the scars to prove it)
I know of a 5.9 offwidth that was climbed in the late 60's by Gary Cifra & Keith Lehman in the Crystal Lake area. In the pics they used cut 2x4's as protection.....
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Locker's dream crack?
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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In my backyard.
TY
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Spider, what's the story on the Old Zoo bouldering at Griffith Park?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 09:07pm PT
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Reilly,
Is that the crack down the hill at Pacifico?
If so, it's a fun little climb. Did a face clImb on a pyramid shaped face down the hill a little more. Fun stuff up there.
Is the road open to Pacifico?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Batrock,
Well, it is either up or down the hill depending. Pacifico, yes.
Don't know if the road is open to arsonists or others.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Old Zoo at GP. Check it out. It's a major bouldering social scene just waiting to happen. Tons of V0-V1 on stucco. Bring a brush.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Pacifico is still closed. I bet the Forest Circus was looking for an excuse to shut down the beautiful little campground on the summit, now they will say it's been damaged by the fire and they need 500 billion dollars to replace the benches and outhouses, but it's not in the budget, so it will be closed indefinately, sad, but probably true.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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A beautiful 30' bouldering face on superb granite. The only problem is you've first got to get to the top of Ontario Peak...
On clear days, I can see it from my backyard.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Yep, that's about the only San Gabriel peak with a pointy summit.
The landing though is manzanita and angled enough to discourage bouldering.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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On the station fire map pacifico isn't in the closed area, but the road is and it's locked. I think the main reason it will be closed forever is because that's where the fireman killed themselves driving off the cliff.
And Rincon have you been to switzers since they reopened it? They built 2 crazy staircases there. They are made out of the trex artifical decking and probabbly cost several thousand each and are really unnessary. And nothing down there was burned!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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And Rincon have you been to switzers since they reopened it? They built 2 crazy staircases there. They are made out of the trex artifical decking and probabbly cost several thousand each and are really unnessary. And nothing down there was burned!
Nope, haven't been down there for years. They build figgen stairs at Switzers, while all the hiking trails in Tujunga and on Strawberry Peak are being reclaimed by nature as the keep out signs stay up for another year there. Then when they lift the closure in 2012 the trails will be completely gone, and will need millions of dollars to repair...ugh.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Cracko,
Has anybody ever checked out the large granite boulders in the rolling hills Southeast of Bakersfield ?? I believe it's Tejon Ranch property. Looks really good!
I lived in Tehachapi for a couple of years ('00-'02) and checked out some of the boulders on the northeast side of SR 58 in the rolling hills of Tejon Ranch (if that's the name of that ranch in that area). I looked at an obvious formation on the southeast side, uphill from the Tehachapi Loop (choss), and hiked up to the base of an overhanging rock escarpment at the summit of an acute peak on the northeast side of 58 (helicopter landing pad and breakfast cafe located at this exit), but it turned out to be choss too from what I could tell.
I was bouldering on one of the boulders on the north side one day when a couple of young ranch-hands (rifle in the cart) politely, yet firmly, asked me to leave the property. I later contacted a ranch official and arranged to meet him so I could show him what I was interested in on his property. He met up with me, at one of the exits off 58, and gave me a personal tour up into the ranch hills for a more in depth look into the area. He gave me some paperwork (liability papers) to submit so that I could continue climbing on the property but that was as far as it got for he never got back to me after I submitted the papers. What I climbed on, though, was bullet and what I saw during the tour was pretty attractive!
There is also a scattering of boulders on the southwest side of SR 58 (sounds like this is what you're talking about), lower down on the mountain of the rolling hills of the ranch, that always got my attention as well, but never decided to trespass. It's too bad that so much of that land is private.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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A couple of friends climbed that and told me they were pulling refrigerator sized blocks off while climbing. Perhaps this could be the new Williamson???
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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North Face of Strawberry?
TY
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Looks like Strawberry. Ben C told me about when he and Virgil S climbed that. Sounded like loads of fun.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Yeah, that's Strawberry Peak. Perhaps a better way to describe it would be 'choads of fun.'
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Is there a topo? Anyone know where the exsisting routes are on Strawberry NF are located? The cntral gully like feature might be worth while in winter. Anyone done that recently?
TY
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Tony,
That's some kinda nasty! And I do know my choss.
I flew by it low and slow one day to make sure. I think the prop wash
knocked off some flakes. It was worth the gas to save the walk.
Like Nancy said, "Just say no, bro."
Besides, I'll warrant you could be roping up at the base of Lily Rock before
you could get to that side of Strawberry Pk.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Tony, ask Ben about it. He said something about finding good holds. He said whenever they found a good hold, they took it with them to use later.
Isn't Virgil back in SoCal? You might call him, he's a big believer in knowing your own backyard. And as Ben says, he really likes carrying heavy packs around in the backcountry.
RCS had trips there back at the dawn of time. When the old Mugelnoos get scanned and posted, hopefully soon, maybe there will be some reports to read.
If you do the third class route up from Josephine Saddle, you can get a good look down that face.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jeff is correct, the Mt. Bike loop around Strawberry Peak is a classic. Given that the old trail was barely hanging onto the side of the mountain in places, it will be a major effort to re-establish the trail.
BTW: Buffalo Chip lives (but apparently a fore-lorn life in a high-end suburbia).
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
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I have a written description and topo drawn and written by Ruth Mendenhall for Strawberry Peak, I'll try and dig it up and post it.
I did a route called Strawberry Roam on on New Years eve about 20 years ago. Loose but fun non the less.
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Johnny K.
climber
Southern California
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Majority of this stuff is going to be choss.If something breaks off,just clean off the hold and move on :O
Choss on top of Baldy summit
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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This is a crag near Acton, not sure what they are calling it though.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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This is a crag near Acton, not sure what they are calling it though.
Crap? :-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Doctor's bills?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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This is a crag near Acton, not sure what they are calling it though.
Crap? :-)
Not completely crap. Only went there once and kinda forgot about it, but it's not bad. Secluded parking on a culdesac dirt road seemed to be public land (no houses nearby), approach goes uphill, about 20 minutes on a decent trail, good view, too hot in the summer. Worth going back IMO, but only because it's close to the SFV.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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This area is off of Angeles Crest Highway about 1/2 mile west of Cloudburst Summit. It's visible from the road, on the north side (on Winston Peak). I top roped some of the cracks about 20 years ago.
On the uphill side, there is this crack:
There's a very old fixed piton:
This boulder sits right next to the road:
There's a couple good routes:
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nice Rincon, that looks fun Im gonna have to check that out soon. I messed around once up there b4 I climbed and forgot about it.
Here is Spiders Spot. When I first saw it I didn't think it was right til I saw the bolt on the top. It looks bad, but it was actually pretty fun for a quick sesh. Thanks again for the directions!
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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I love this thread!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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Sewellymon goes bump
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
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Sewellymon's trip report rules!
Thank you for that!!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 11, 2011 - 02:29am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 11, 2011 - 03:09am PT
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okay here is where every real fool is heading..
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 11, 2011 - 11:24am PT
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The thousands of acres of fresh poodle dog is going to make bushwacking into these hidden gems a real pleasure!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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Topanga Cyn? It's not Sespe or Piru and it looks too clean for Malibu creek but I suppose it could be? Where it at?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 11, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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Nice TR from DeSwellMon!
Roadside access and no chalk marks? WTF?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jul 11, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
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Roadside access and no chalk marks? WTF?
Never assume anything...
Chalk does wash off :) There's a benchmark on top:
Pyro's secret spot is visible from Las Virgines road, ha bro! You can drive up there, by going all the way to the top of Corral Canyon road from PCH. Great views of Santa Monica Bay, but the rock is pretty soft.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jul 11, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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Here's a rock I have never hiked up to, but it's visible from ACH just west of Red Box junction. I call it Owl Rock:
This boulder sits next ACH near Buckhorn Campground. The arete is about 10+ (Toproped).
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Jul 12, 2011 - 01:17am PT
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Just reading today in Royal's autobiography. I believe that piton on Winston Peak might be his. Pounded in around 1949 when he was active in that area.
I scanned that Strawberry Peak Wall topo and sent it to Levy but I can't seem to find it now. Too much crap on this computer. 3-hour approach to Strawberry wall by the way. I've worked it from every angle. BITD the old timers could drive the Josephine Peak road to access. It's faster to drive to Tahquitz.
I think that new bolt on Burbank Pebble must be mine. I'd agree that it may be crap. Put it up there about 1993. Hand drilled for an hour. That Gneiss is hard as hell. Not much use for it except to replace the one that was there before it. I think it's only a 2.5x3/8 split expansion type.
There are two other poison oak covered crags on Verdugo Hill. One above the dam in Country Club Canyon. I cleared poison oak and placed one totally crap bolt that should still be there. The other is near the start of La Tuna Single Track at the bottom. My friend Eddie says he placed a bolt and TRed. I've not been up to check this out. Too much poison oak for my taste.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 12, 2011 - 08:54am PT
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bump for Kevin's "really good stuff"
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 12, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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I just noticed "Owl Rock" a few months ago, the fires exposed that thing pretty good.
And Swelly I don't care that you reposted my pics from Mountain Project. I'm still waiting for Millard to open again. I'd poach it, but that camp host is f*#king crazy and would probabbly kill me chainsaw masacure style.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 12, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
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Yeah I know, I went down to the falls like a month ago from the top way in. I want to just do it but everyone can see you from the trail and its not really worth it. I don't really see why it's closed it didn't burn down in there.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jul 12, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
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Found a 20 ft roof crack in the San Bernadinos the other day.Can anyone tell me where?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 13, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
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Pyro's secret spot is visible from Las Virgines road, ha bro! You can drive up there, by going all the way to the top of Corral Canyon road from PCH. Great views of Santa Monica Bay, but the rock is pretty soft.
Godamn Rincon now all the "lame-O squeezer jobbers" are going to my secret spot. there going to post on MP all their new roooots.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 15, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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I got obscure last night. A little chossy but pretty solid and a real cool type of volcanic rock.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 15, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 15, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 15, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 15, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 15, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 15, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 15, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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Are those last few shots from Valley Of The Moon?
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 15, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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Levy,
If I confirmed your query, then I'd remove another veil of "obscura" not that I haven't done that already by posting pictures. Similar to Kevin's previous post, there's a lot of stuff in the San Diego and Imperial Counties, best left for you to discover on your own (not to say that some of these haven't been well recorded elsewhere).
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 25, 2011 - 02:33am PT
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Jonnnyyyzzz
Trad climber
San Diego,CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
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[photo 10 min from the 15 in Escondido. 10 min approach. North facing with plenty of shade and on shore breezes. 40'-80' Sport,Trad, and TR's
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Hello, Just started reading the forum. Here's a photo of Ray Palmer on what we believed to be a first on the N face of Strawberry Peak ca. 1968
Exhilarating, with some sections of solid rock, but about half was REAL loose. It was a somewhat rightward tending foray of about 4-5 pitches.
Beginning near the first trees at the base. We saw no pitons. I'd rate it somewhere between 5.fun and 5.run out/loose. (5.7?) It took about 3-4 attempts. No bolts.
KL
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 29, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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really southern and really obscure.
5.0 A0
Colorado river
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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I'll try this again
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2011 - 03:40am PT
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KEITH!!!!!!!!!!! Where the hell have you been?
-Bill
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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Iron Mtn.,
Rumors of my demise have been greatly exaggerated. Back in Seattle-finally.
You still climb? Here's a pic of a '66 climb at Big Rock. Paul and I were eventually able to climb free past Harrell's (5.10?) bolted section. I remember seeing the very top above water in the '90's. I read they may be closing Big Rock for a while??
We bouldered a bit on the rocks atop Baldy back then-Late '60's?
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jul 30, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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Keith, you prolly don't remember me. How have you been? It's been a very long time. I hope you are well and still climbing!
Tony Yeary
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
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Tony!!
Admittedly there are some cobwebs in the cranium, but luckily I took a lot of ginko biloba thru the years. Yeah- I remember you-Glendora, right??? Fill me in a little please. Apologies if I'm mistaken. Didn't you do some classic on Lone Eagle last time I saw you in the early 70's? I did some climbing at Devil's lake and Taylors Falls and Barn Bluff in the early '80's (during my 4 years on the Sioux reservation in Red Wing). I recently returned from several years in North Carolina and mostly bouldered at Stone Mtn. and Moore's Wall.
I'm always amazed at the abundance of, and my interest in remote, obscure "unclimbed" niches discovered. Climbed fairly regularly in Leavenworth in the '90's. Thanks for remembering.
I'm doing well.
KL
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jul 30, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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Dam Keith it's been a while. Yes Glendora! And you are correct, however one man's classic is another's choss!. Just look at the North Face of Strawberry!
Do you remember taking me, Gary and some others, maybe Rick and Tobin to Chilao and Elder Creek? Had to be about '72. Man time files. I will send you a pm. So glad you are still with us!
Nice pics Kevin. Move along, no climbing there in SD! Did you ever run into Craig Clarence? Is he still active down there?
TY
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
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TYeary and others~
Tony-I recall that trip! Nice boulder problem there.
Crags near Cloudburst Summit. Cifra and I found more larger ones on the side of Waterman.
Frazier Mtn has some fun more-solid-than-they-look scattered problems. I hiked to them since they were out my back door.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
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This thread just got 1000% better-Thanks Keith!
Admittedly I haven't been climbing in quite awhile (injury, weight gain & poverty) but i'm living fairly close to Rubidoux as well as some other obscure problems in the area which I was planning on creating a circuit in the near future.
I haven't seen Cifra in a couple of years but I plan on visiting him soon.
I touched base with Gleason here a couple of times as well, he told me you were back in Seattle.
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spenchur
climber
oak park
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Jul 30, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
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bump for hometown obscurities...
Here is one a couple miles inland from Leo Carrillo on mulholland where the road switches sides of the canyon called the temporal boulders. I put this one up last year called "black fly hell" for the summer climbing conditions in the canyon and checks in around v8.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
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Keith, did you ever run into a gruff ex sheriff named Bob Koehnen at Taylors falls?
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
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Hey Jeff-
Lets see- last time I saw you was at Stony Point,'80's? and I had to rush off to grad studies at CSUNorthridge. Good to hear from you! Really liked the above post by Warbler too. For me, that place looks like it embodies the idyllic "storybook" crag many of us aspired to find.
Mungeclimber: I don't remember Bob Koehner in MN, but that does not mean we may not have met. I climbed with a pleasant ceramics artist (whose name eludes me)for a while there, or out solo.
I like the phrase "hometown obscurities" above.
KL
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jul 31, 2011 - 12:41am PT
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Kevin,
I think Craig was very active at Cajon Mtn(sp), among other spots, several years ago putting up new routes and was involved in a scrabble about bolt chopping ect..I new him from Rainier and South America.He used to enjoy suffering and climbing the big hills, but he got smart. I haven't found that enlightenment yet, I guess! Cheers,
TY
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ericdehaven
Sport climber
los angeles
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Jul 31, 2011 - 11:43am PT
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Pyro,
We hit up corpse wall yesterday. Not a bad little piece of rock.
Question though, do you park at the lookout or drive up the seemingly abandoned private road to the water tower and park there?
Its a shame that the private community on the other side is gated, otherwise that would be a much nicer walk.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 31, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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E-man i park right off the stunt rd. that place is a shame! original founder named that place saddlepeak slab!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 31, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
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Sewellymon-
I had a cabin in Frazier Park in the late '80's. I do recall about a 100' darkish slab up there on one of the roads near Pine Mtn. Visible briefly from the road- somewhere closer to the desert side.
Here's a flash of Bob Dominick on the formerly obscure Mt. Williamson (used to call it Dome Rock) when there were but a few routes. Phil Gleason and I went up there to climb it in the early '60's and got to near the top in a dense fog. Visibility was about 10'. He lead up anyway on something on the upper formation. Must have been about 60-80'of friction. I was surprised when I got to the belay and he hadn't used any pro. It's a sport route now.
The Gleasons and I would plod up Eaton Canyon with a 50' piece of goldline that we had gleaned from a Munglenoose meeting, looking for climbs, and found an impass at a waterfall with a piton stuck in a large log. We surmised it "possibly" was John Muir's, since we read in his autobiography that he had explored Eaton Canyon. We were kids, what did we know?
Was that former post of a group of boulders near the headwaters of Bear Creek? Dominick and I did some routes in Cascade Canyon which, in retrospect, and given all the new gear, might have some actual possibilities. Interesting chert caliche (sp?) formations and red rock.
KL
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Didn't they film the opening scene in "Vagina Monolgues" there?
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ericdehaven
Sport climber
los angeles
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yeah right huh..
Looks a bit like it..
besides the vaginal reference the area, though saying its closed on the page has activity as I have read a few places of people doing the routes up till 3 or 4 months ago, but no specific location info.. Looks really cool. Even if its not climbable it would be great to check out
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Just one of the reasons, Jeff, that I moved up here where solid is more accessible. Though it's getting crowded here too. Thanks for responding.
KL
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Didn't they film the opening scene in "Vagina Monolgues" there?
I thought that was here...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Eric-D ~ That photo is from another "Bat Cave", which is in Woodland Hills under the south face of Castle Peak. Castle Peak is at the entrance of Bell Canyon, an affluent, gate-guarded community between Woodland Hills and the Santa Susana Laboratories where the worst nuclear accident in US history took place in the late 1950's. The route pictured is "European Vacation" and is 5.12b and is solid for the grade. It is rather good pulling on a very steep wall.
The Bat Cave AKA Tony's Mud Cave, is found by parking on Vanoven, just
west of Valley Circle Blvd. You hike thru the gate & proceed 1/2 mile back to a fence line. From here you can see the cave off to the right, it looks like a crescent moon. It's a sandstone conglomerate in which there has been eons of calcarious deposition making a limestone like surface on some of the climbs. There are tufas ,huecos & other cool features that make for some great steep climbing. There are also some lesser quality lines that have a slit like powdered layer on them that is not so good.
The area is worth a visit if you enjoy 5.11 to 5.12+ climbing. The easier routes are generally not very good IMHO. It is open as far as I know. It's only about 1 mile from my work. When it cools down, I'll take a look & see if there are any access problems & post up here what I found out.
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ericdehaven
Sport climber
los angeles
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Levy,
Thank you for the info. I will probably take a hike up there in the next week or two and post what I see. I figured it was up in that general direction as I used to scramble up around there when I was a kid and it looked somewhat familiar. We even used to try to sneak in and around the old missile facility because as kids there were tons of great conspiracy stories surrounding it. Last year I hiked to a few of the old titan silos in the hills around LA. A strange cold war era throwback.
You seem to have a good bit of knowledge about the chatsworth area, so I have another question. I was speaking with some of my friends who regular stoney and asked if anyone has recently hiked up to some of the large walls visible above Chatsworth park, and the answer of course was "all choss" but no one I know had been up recently, then I read that there are some bolted routes even in the park itself.
Have you been up in the hills there at all?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Eric-D I'll drop you a line to your e-mail.. You can call me to discuss matters further.
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joeblow
climber
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So levy, I don't get it, which part of fight club are struggling with? It's pretty well known, Tony doesn't want the info out. How would you like it if directions to your semi secret new area were posted? Do the right thing and pull that info.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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JoeBlow-hard,
Since when does Tony not want info about the area to get out?
Tony has never said anything to me about wanting to keep it on the down low.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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KSolem,
They filmed the closed scene there - Duh!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I just found this route. I had to trundle some football sized rocks off it but other than that it's solid. It needs some brushing too.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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I just read this whole thread and really want to play.
I got somethin'.
Good climbing out here, different view seen upthread.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So now the Mojave is SoCal? :-)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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It's eastern so cal.
One time I hiked all around behind the Fang, up and down a series of parallel corridors. I saw some of the most mind blowingly good rock I have ever seen. It was super well featured. It looked like a mix of the Needles, El Cap and Josh. I believe it MIGHT have been a closed area though. Bighorn mating and such going on out there.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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http://www.bigwall.com/scag_lac.html
Some of these have been brought up on here. Like Baldy, Stoney, Millard, and Eaton, but has anyone been to Rocky Peak or Box Canyon? I went to the Box Canyon boulder like a year ago and it was covered in moss, had 1/4 leapers, and no anchors at the top so I was over it.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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T-Fish, Didn't you recently climb the Eagle Rock? Any pictures?
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Keith
Here's a flash of Bob Dominick on the formerly obscure Mt. Williamson (used to call it Dome Rock) when there were but a few routes. Phil Gleason and I went up there to climb it in the early '60's and got to near the top in a dense fog. Visibility was about 10'. He lead up anyway on something on the upper formation. Must have been about 60-80'of friction. I was surprised when I got to the belay and he hadn't used any pro. It's a sport route now.
I climb regularly with Bob Dominick and he would like to get in touch with you. You have PMs disabled, but please PM with with contact information if you're interested in reconnecting!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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The Warbler said,
Jul 11, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
Haha, Swelly, that's funny
As a native San Diegan, I was just feeling left out, and had to represent for us down here in the country's corner.
I'm always surprised at how few climbers on a nationwide scale know how good San Diego County is for climbing and bouldering.
If it makes you feel better, I could have posted more, y'know the REALLY good stuff...
I just went through the whole thread.
You know being a San Diego Native I have to really agree with "The Warbler."
San Diego County has perhaps the most crags and boulders out of any county within the USA. That isn't stretching the truth at all. We have a plethora or really good multi-pitch crags in the BC, and border to border boulders, and all the amenities and fun diversions of a big city (with a small city feel). Everyone can have their "secret crag" down here. And for the most part the rock is really good solid granite/granodiorite. There are a lifetime of crags and boulders down here and you still wont get to it all. And where else can you ski in the mountains in the am, climb great rock in the desert in the afternoon, and in the evening hit some great breaks on the surfboard? Where? (I've done that.) OK, LA County also. Both San Diego and LA county are very unique in that way; no other counties in the US can claim that. Pretty coooooooooooooool.
California is truly blessed with a near infinite amount of really good rock from the beach, coast, inland, desert, and alpine environments. Pretty awesome if you ask me.
Where SoCal climbers are really blowing it: the Gondola canyon on San Jacinto. Dang those spires have to get climbed. That is Sierra big quality alpinish wall climbing there. Also all the long alpine routes to be done on the North Face of San Jacinto in full winter conditions. We have a veritable scaled down Chamonix-Mont Blanc in our own close backyard. There should be all kinds of routes all over all sides of San Jacinto. Dang we are lazy.
Not to mention the many quality JT like regions that are still not well known. (Dang it all Batrock, SSSSSSssssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. It's secret.) Besides, they would all kill themselves trying to get there. 4X4 major obscura and very dangerous. Your gonna die !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't even think about going there. We are saving lives! Just imagine all the skeletons hanging out of the vehicle windows we would have to encounter just getting there. Not a pretty sight.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Uh, Klim, I thought all those spires have been climbed. And as for the N Face
it does offer some good ski descents but despite repeated perusals I've yet to
identify an Innominate or a Peuterey.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Uh, Klim, I thought all those spires have been climbed. And as for the N Face it does offer some good ski descents but despite repeated perusals I've yet to identify an Innominate or a Peuterey.
Reilly,
Now I might be mistaken about some of the spires within the Gondola canyon, where are the write-ups and topos?
Yes, the N. Face of San Jacinto, Snow Creek, is supposed to be a great ski descent, but I'm talking about the ridges that go from near the desert to near the summit bordering Snow Creek. In winter conditions those granitic alpine ridges, with a few long faces on them also would be pretty hard-core. Even in the Spring or early Summer without snow they would be pretty hard-core.
Remember, I said "scaled down," I didn't say it was exactly like it. You could make it as hard as you want to make it by picking the most extreme line. I've sat down there for long periods of time just off of I-10 in the desert with powerful binocs looking and taking images (sorry slides and I don't have a scanner yet) and the routes look as knarly as you want to make them.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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dee ee,
In the late '60s, a group of us did several routes up the large brownish desert varnish sections of the main formation (among others) in your photo. The right side has an easy route -"White Fangs Revenge". I took about a 70' whipper off a FA (5.11?) line up the left side. Also, as mentioned upthread, the helmet shaped formation on the right has some routes.
John Gosling, Lee Harrell and I did a nice 3 pitch route on a wall in one of the corridors you explored behind the "Fang". As far as I know the place has been off limits for many years. Were you there with us? We went out there almost every weekend. One morning we woke up and one of us had been sleeping on top of a rattlesnake all night! Saw lots of Bighorns.
Klimmer,
In '73, Paul Gleason (RIP) and I went twice to explore the Snow Creek area you discussed^^^. Here's where we started to traverse over to the larger formations. We roped up on some scrambling, but didn't get to best sections. Nah! Nothing to see there. Choss for sure;-)
Tim, Sent you a PM, Thanks
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Keith,
Great stuff. Choss for sure no doubt ;-)
San Jacinto Peak:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Jacinto_Peak
“Geography
To the east, the peak towers over the city of Palm Springs; to the west, it borders the mountain community of Idyllwild. The peak is also frequently called Mount San Jacinto. The steep escarpment of its north face, above Snow Creek, climbs over 10,000 feet (3,000 m) in 7 miles (11 km). This is one of the largest gains in elevation over such a small horizontal distance in the contiguous United States.”
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1a/Santa_Rosa_and_San_Jacinto_Mountains_283.jpg
“Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument, California, USA. North face of San Jacinto Mountains, on March 30, 2003.
The steep escarpment of its north face climbs over 10,000 feet (3 km) in 7 miles (11.3 km). It is the steepest escarpment in North America. Snow Creek can be seen as the snow-filled gully reaching to the summit. The lower reaches of Snow Creek belong to the Palm Springs Water District, which strictly enforces a ban on trespassing. From right to left the named summits in this picture are: Folly Peak, 10,480+ feet, San Jacinto Peak, 10,804 feet, Miller Peak, 10,400+ feet, and Cornell Peak, 9750 feet.”
The North Face of Mt. San Jacinto in all of it’s glory:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0c/San_Jacinto_Peak_0675.jpg
Someone please try to tell me there isn’t incredible climbing on the North Face of San Jacinto.
Like I said, we have our own (smaller scale) veritable version of Chamonix-Mont Blanc right here in SoCal, whether you climb it Spring, Summer, Fall, or in full on Winter conditions.
There should be tonnes of climbs already done on this massive North Face escarpment. Guide books could be dedicated to this wonderful superlative physiographic feature with the routes labeled that are done and topo-ed, along with those that are possible. My mind goes into incredible climbing dream fantasy mode when I look at this face and all the possibilities.
For crying out loud it is right here in our backyard. There are no excuses.
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Snow Creek. One of the most adventurous days of my life. I hiked/climbed up Snow Creek in Mar '81 solo (after partners bailed) when I was a young alpine-hungry proto-climber. Bivied right on the summit, hiked the next morning to the tram, bluffed the operator into getting a free ride down, then hitch-hiked back to my car. It was awesome.
Curt
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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With climbing/ski friends I've gone many times from the Tram to the summit via BC skiing. I have yet to ski the North Face, via Snow Creek though. Someday. Hopefully soon.
But the entire North Face of Mt. San Jacinto sure has some great potential for climbing and BC skiing.
Just dreaming about what's possible. There are a lot more dreams here than I have indicated that's for sure . . .
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SpeedyTaco
Mountain climber
Baldy
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Oct 17, 2011 - 05:35am PT
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Oh shnap
Nice photo of Crystal Lake Crag. I'm real interested in hearing about what y'all have done up there and whatnot. I'm actually in the process of writing a book about climbing and assorted stuff up in the San Gabes. It would be cool to hear some stories and info, even if I don't end up putting it in the book.
Some Crystal Lake goodness... the cleanest line so far.
Also, one of the nicest winter lines on Snow Creek isn't on your topo. :-)
Howdy Tony!
Cheers all
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:15am PT
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Nice pic Speedy, I remember that climb! Several of our group did about 8-10 routes on the Crystal Lake Crags in the late 60's. We did some serious trundleage up there, much to the dismay of the fishers below! As I recall, if you traverse left along the sloping ledges near the bottom of your photo, and gain a corner, there is access to a thin crack up the flat wall to your left. Some old photos: Gary Cifra reaching that corner on a winter outing.The short, thin crack up the blackish face took rurps and knifeblades and went mostly free except for a few moves.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 17, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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Those pics of Granite Mountain (The Fang, etc.) bring back great and old memories. We first went out there right about the time the previous generation of So Cal guys (Haney, the Gleasons, Dominick, Jach Schnurr, Barker, et al) were just getting finished with the place. My first tripe out there Paul Gleason showed me a crack for the ages. Then Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison and I did a 1st ascent in the canyon Dave E. described that to this day is one of the greatest new routes I've ever done, passing over a huge A-frame roof via a slanting .11a crack. Ricky took a number of legendary falls into the terrifying open space beneath the A-frame. Richard and I watched in awe!
JL
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SpeedyTaco
Mountain climber
Baldy
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
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Keith, that's awesome. I really appreciate the photos and your stories.
Is the face you're talking about the one on the left of the climber here?
I've been eyeing it for a while. Did you guys aid it or free it?
Did you guys give those routes any names?
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it. :-)
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
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Largo, I was looking for some old timers online and read that Jack Schnurr is a colonel in the Air force reserves-recently did a MEDRETE? mission to Bolivia. Also it seems he did become an Osteopath working at a hospital in Carson City as late as 2009. Haven't seen him since we dropped off a bunch of biners at your place in Upland in '71? on our way to do the "Step" at Tahquitz. He's another So Cal character. If I make contact I'll say Hi.
Speedy-That's it. We gave some of them (corny) names. We named one the Leeper Route, since it was the only piece (stubby) of pro I could get in on a steep, wet, scary loose fit of desperation where I remember at one point crying out loud in a storm drenched ascent-"God just give me one handhold"!! Amazingly a beam of light broke through the clouds and illuminated a small key handhold -the solution to the climb. I kid you not! (A few aid moves in the snow).
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SpeedyTaco
Mountain climber
Baldy
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
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F'in rad. :-)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 17, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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No fair posting photos of San Diego Warbler. There's so much rock littered throughout that county, it makes me sad LA doesn't have one-tenth of that amount.
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Johnny K.
climber
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Oct 19, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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....
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Oct 19, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
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I haven't been to this tread in a while. And saw this about Rocky Peak Rd. Around 1990 me and a friend I'll call him J.0. started exploring the area. J.O. was driven to bolt the overhang. So, we started doing routes on the apron to get our feet wet. On the same day I wanted to climb the corner to the left of the overhanging bolt ladder. About half way up the expanding flake all the pins I put in fell out. I was looking at a good 40' fall landing on the apron. Lucky I was able to down climb. J.O. told me that he did it free with a friend and rated it 5.11 tr.
Next we climbed the 40 foot crack noted on the Big Wall web site.
2) THIN CRACK (A3+?)
This route is passed on the walk to the roof, a 40' wall located 35 yards south of the roof. Looks like it's only been done once.
Pro: KBs, LAs?
This is a great place to teach someone to aid climb. It been climbed at least 10 times. 4 by me.
The deal we made is J.O. mess around on the stuff I wanted to do if I belayed him as he bolted the roof. J.O. called the route Plasma and it took him a month to do all the bolting.
Other areas off Rocky Peak Rd. When you get to the area of this formation look North (left) towards Simi and you will see a ridge of rock. I climbed there off and on for two years. The walls get taller to the right (north).
As a caution this whole area has a lot of poison oak. However, I did find some petrified wood in cased some of the sandstone.
There is also a nice boulder 5 mins from the car. Once you walk up the first 100 ft of the road and gain the flat area, just keep on walk towards Simi ( down hill ) off trail and it will come into view. The boulder looks like a loaf of bread broken in half.
If anybody wants more info PM me.
On the Big Wall site I just saw the Tampa Bridge Area. I put all that stuff up. Ha Ha
I no longer live in the area. But, I am glad to some of my work is still there for peps to climb. There is a small amount under the Desoto Exit.
MMM
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Oct 24, 2011 - 03:17am PT
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Thanks for the Crystal Lake pics (past & present) Freakin' Awesome!!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 30, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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Yeah, it:s a blurry shot of a shot...
But if you know you know.
KW?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 30, 2011 - 05:07pm PT
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Jeff took me up there and showed me that problem. So good. Rainbow has some of the best bouldering granite I've ever touched. And the setting is gorgeous if you have a taste for the SoCal inland mountains, which I very much do.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 30, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
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Sweet, KW.
That place is like a goulash of all my favorite types of granite.
I was happy to get the tour.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 30, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
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Some other thing.
Sorry again for the blurr... or is it "haze"?
I only have a few shots and wasn't in shape enough at the time to climb above 5.11, but that "Chief" sure is a gem. Wish I had THAT problem in my backyard(or on my property).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 30, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
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Yep. I thought it was a bit scary. I LOVED the big slab just uphill from the parking area. I think that was another one of yours, Warbler.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 10, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 16, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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Chimney climbing, anyone?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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Spider, thanks for the beta, my son and I had a fun time and he had a blast on his first "multi pitch".
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 16, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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It's a good one for sons and daughters just starting out. Easy going with plenty of air.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
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Texas is a great place for beginners. Lots of easier routes & some of the easier routes can be done in tennis shoes or whatever footwear is handy. Good to see folks enjoying it!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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That was my first time at Texas Cyn. Need to get back, looked like some fun stuff in that gully to the left of Hyperion.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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Why the hell is every road in Angeles Crest closed these days? You cant drive the road to Pacifico, the road to Horseflats is closed, Anything off the main highway even before the big fire has been closed. I was at the REI in Arcadia the other day and noticed that right up the street the NFS is building a new headquarters and it is a monster of a headquarters. I guess all the money that would have gone to keeping and maintainig roads and trails is going into the new ANF headquarters? I'm just a little pissed.
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Rokrover
Trad climber
SB, CA
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Feb 19, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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For chimney fans:
We did this as a fill-in route next to Paleface in the "Top Hat" area (ref: Louie Anderson's guide to the Santa Monicas). As the great John Ewbank would say "If you miss the start of this route, you might as well give the game away"
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:05am PT
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Some SD county obscurata right in my back yard.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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Batrock, don't you know the inmates are running their asylum now?
And don't get me started on that colossus outside Lone Pine. What a
horrendously poor design. That building could have been built 1/4 the size.
What you can't drive to...
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Mar 12, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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Best crack climb in the San Gabriels?
Me and Guy climbed a crack on Saturday that was short, but pretty damn good, and went at 5.11a!
finish is 5.10 face climbing
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 12, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Chiriaco Summit
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 25, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 25, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Tfish--- oh come on... spill beans.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 25, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 25, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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I don't understand bolting a crag, then keeping it a secret. Why not just top rope it and save some money? Either leave no trace, or share with others.
Photo above - mt Baldy Sierra Club boulder, SW end.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:07am PT
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It's a secret cuz I still have a few more routes to do around the corner. And Guy, forsure I'll let you know soon, you guys showed me your sick spot, so I owe you guys.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Just saying...
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Jul 26, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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It doesn't seem 'either/or' to me. There's quite a difference between keeping something totally secret, and not publicizing/promoting it. The middle way is when a spot is not a secret (plenty of people know about it, it's in a guidebook,etc) but not posted on the Internet.
I don't get your comment on leave no trace. If that seemed important in the least, then I would think you would not want it trumpeted. Maybe some people want a quiet, peaceful place to climb and be in nature.
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SpeedyTaco
Mountain climber
Baldy
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Is there still grease all over them holds on that boulder?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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Tfish,
That looks like the Spring Crag area near Williamson but I guess it could be anywhere.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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No grease on the lower area. I just spent five days putting up a five move slab problem there. Probably could do it first time in the winter. Beautiful setting down there.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 12, 2012 - 05:21pm PT
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Nah, it's not spring crag. Its not that far up the crest.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 27, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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nice temps at the Bu.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Earthquakes? When?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
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That last pic from Pyro looks like something off of Malibu Canyon Rd. There are a few slabs tucked up in some side canyons that always looked worth checking out. Of course, I could be totally wrong...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Fat Dad nails it! That photo is of an obsucre side canyon off Malibu canyon Road called " The Slab that Time Forgot". There are some 5.8 to 5.11- polished slabs that are OK.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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my good friend roger putting on shoes and prepping for the Malibu slab.
while Dave belay's kevin.
rare pick of a "socal slab party".
obscure for sure yet so local.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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also, here is some more socal obscure stuff.
Dave Katz climbing on the iceberg :)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Where is that thing Reilly?
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wallgumby
Big Wall climber
LA-LA, CA
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I put a post under "why are you bored of Stoney Point" on a mini-crag I found some worthwhile climbs on in hills west of Stoney Point. I should have added it to this thread.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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The closest sport route in LA?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Biotch.... the spire is right above ECHO.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 21, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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Oh WTF a few photos up thread we had muir, hensel and what appeared to be the consummate derelict bolton in close proximity. That does it. I'm going offline forever an prepping for the zomie invasion. You guys are on your own.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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Bob.... Please don't go.
But if you do, please go and write up a big, crying rant about the horrors you see on the Taco. And how it makes you feel bad......
That is whats new around here....
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Sep 22, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Hey, anyone know if this slab on Pine Mountain in the San Gabriels has ever been climbed on?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 22, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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bump for rincon's pine mtn pic.
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 22, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Look at that crown fracture!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Sep 26, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Holy sh#t! I just got called the "consummate derelict" by Van Belle! That's like being called "kinky" by the Marquise de Sade. I HAVE ARRIVED!
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SpeedyTaco
Mountain climber
Baldy
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Sep 27, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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I have scouted it out and looked up at it from the base of the gully a bunch of times. FWIW that's Shale I think. The same rock makes up a lot of the area north of Baldy. The only shale solid enough to hold pro I've encountered was deep in Fish Fork.
I was geared up to climb that slab this winter, but I moved to the Ditch from LA so that's no longer on the menu. I don't think it would be very safe, but it would be nifty.
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SpeedyTaco
Mountain climber
San Gabes & Yosemite Village
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Sep 27, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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If you would like some beta on the approach and all that, I'll trade ya for pics and a TR when you do it.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 27, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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From blue ridge road?
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Sep 28, 2012 - 08:31am PT
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haha--i did that pine mountain face back in the 80s. saw the sunset flash on it on a baden-powell hike and just had to check it out.
we approached via the dry creeks below--quite a lengthy approach. the rock is some kind of metamorphosed stuff. gneiss or schist, very grainy. it's pitched at an angle which doesn't quite make it very challenging climbing--not much harder than middle 5th slab. the challenging part is the protection, especially with the chock rack we were using. the best stuff to protect would have been knifeblade pitons, and not much else. very tight seams you could hammer something into, but too friable for wired nuts and the like, and nothing wide enough for chocks or large cams.
all in all, a nice little adventure, but not very challenging climbing.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Sep 28, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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Yeah, I thought it was probably chossy, not to mention a bowling alley, but I figured someone must have checked it out.
Thanks for the info you guys.
I think taco has the right idea, to do it as a ice climb. Only it would be hard to access that time of year, with the Blue Ridge Road under snow. Too bad too, cuz that face has some of the steepest lines in the San G's, and would be badass for skiing.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Sep 28, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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it's not chossy, just not terribly hard. because it's grainy, it's pretty easy friction.
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rcguy
climber
|
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Sep 30, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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On the way to Saddle Peak in the Santa Monicas. Needs some gardening at the base. Small but the ocean view is incredible.
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Sep 30, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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^^^thats the Black Flower crag^^^^ total choss pile!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Cracks underneath the 210 freeway. Early training ground for the Sheepbuggers
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Sredni Vashtar
Social climber
Far West LA & UK
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Biotch:Where is that thing Reilly?
Wasnt a question for me but i know the answer, viewable from mishe mokwe trail
it's somewhere around here 34.131567, -118.921680
but hard to tell from google earth
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Biotch:Where is that thing Reilly?
Wasnt a question for me but i know the answer, viewable from mishe mokwe trail
it's somewhere around here 34.131567, -118.921680
but hard to tell from google earth
2nd clue.... Walk out to ECHO Cliffs.... its on your right.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Just put up a 5.10d ground up.
Heres my buddy rick TRing another line.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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TFish..... nice flash dude!!!!!!!!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I've been eyeing this pile of choss off of Angeles Crest Hwy for awhile now and finally decided to scope it out. It's off to the right just before you get to the clear creek station/Angeles Forest hwy turn off. It looks like a mini Texas Canyon.
But it looks some kooks beat me too it.
Every hold would crumble in your hand or under your feet.
I found a decent line on another formation in a water grove that only had one hand hold break. Over all it was a pile. And the station fire messed up the rock too.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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I hiked out to that pile about 20 years ago, decided it wasn't worth it and never went back. Last few years I've been wondering if I was wrong and have been very close to going over there again just to make sure. Thanks for saving me the trouble. It's not easy to get to those rocks even though they look so close.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 22, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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YESH OBscurachoss
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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I just threw up a little.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 12, 2013 - 12:57am PT
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Bat Rock: Bats, bees, dark, dirty and hard - what's not to love.
Our closest crag.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
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Here is a fun place to boulder on the way up or down the 14. It's off the Burro Schmidt Tunnel road about 2 miles off the 14 and about a 100 yard walk to the boulders.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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Williamson Rock, 1983. Climbing with a few members of the Burbank HS X-country team. We would tell the coach we were,going for a long run and load up the car and head for Williamson.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Feb 22, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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I dug out more old obscura. It's been 40 years since I've been down there, but as I remember, somewhere high on a ridge near Waterman Mt., Kratka Ridge area, I dragged Cifra up the south side of Angeles Crest Hwy toward some outcrops barely and infrequently visible from the road (fires may have opened the view?) somewhere near this Cloudburst area (on which we also did a few routes)
Seems like it took 1-2 hours to get to the ridgeline of Waterman (no trails) through big pines where we clean-climbed some one pitch crags that were fairly solid and several Horse Flats/Mt Pacifico quality boulders like this one. Maybe you guys can tell where it is from the background. Haven't located it yet on Google Earth. I would go back up there. (There's the Halibut Hat again)
Found a few photos of what we called Alder Creek. The pictures show about the top 1/2 to 1/3 of the crags. This may have been the trip that Sorenson and Yeary went with me? This place shows up really well on Google Earth.
We found some enjoyable boulders in Big or Little Tujunga Canyon too, near a waterfall with a cube-like formation.
Edit:
Jeff, Yes that's near Winston Peak. That might be Mt. Pinos/Frazier Mtn area in the far distance of the second photo-it was a clear day.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Feb 22, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
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Thanks for the trip down memory lane, Keith. Tobin was like a kid in a candy shop in those days.
I guess the Secret Stash was never much of a secret,eh Jeff?. There is some tall stuff down the north side of Winston.
So much choss, so little time!
TY
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 22, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
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Bat.... hi. I went looking for that boulder.... it's not EZ to find.
So it's about 2 miles (east ?) of 14?
It's not visible from road??
So I should set the odometer to zero then drive 2 miles and look around.
about 100 yards?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
|
Guy,
Let me see if I can screenshot google earth for you. I'll have to get my son to help with that first.
Back soon.
Kevin
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
|
Guy,
Just sent you a few emails with Google Earth info. Let me know if you can make anything of it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 22, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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THX.... everytime I drive by Burro Schmidt I think.... it's out there... someplace.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 22, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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My daughter Caitlin getting ready for the hike to a little SD east county crag
Slabs away!
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
|
Is the Mojave considered So Cal?
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
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Feb 22, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
|
Valley of the Moon
Down from another of my solo first ascents there, well I did have my Buddy with me.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
|
you guys know where this is
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
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Pacifico?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 23, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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Anxious, that's some lovely choss.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
|
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
|
10b4me - That's a little left of this place, main wall. Nice pix, Anxious.
Tony Y - Only met Tobin that one time, but it seemed he was always smiling, like a happy, really pleasant kid.
Dr.F - Some of those crags at Turtle Peaks look like they might be solid enough ?, but I've never climbed there.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 23, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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Mungeclimber, not Pacifico
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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Ant Line, Horse Flats?
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:41am PT
|
Yeah
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 24, 2013 - 10:25am PT
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10b.... Horse flats....
Yes the Mojave is obscure.... lots to do.
Dr F .... Turtle Mts... can't say.
What's the big peaks one can see to the west of Vidal???
Look like fun summits
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 24, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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Horse flats is not obscure...
I agree, but most people go to HF to boulder. I know people who boulder there, and have never end heard of the top rope wall
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 24, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Me and my wife go out there once a year for rock collecting trips, pink chalcedony roses, and gravel.
It's a great place for primative camping and exploring
Dr F when u say stuff like that it reminds me how kool rock hounding is!
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:54am PT
|
NW of Vidal Junction
Umpah
Mopha from Umpha's summit
Umpha's 3rd/4th class, Mopha's a bit harder.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:01am PT
|
Anxious....
Thank you for posting..... those babys are striking features as one drives past.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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A little spot below the 79 where F10 and I put up a few routes.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:08am PT
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Picacho Peak, just north of Winterhaven. Surmounted by ladders, low 5th, and a bit of roped trickery.
Note: I did this peak agai last month and this wood ladder has now been replaced with an aluminum one. This first, lower wood ladder remains in place
Joe, who's never been in aiders before, surmounting the lower summit on the return for the upper summit.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:29am PT
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Thumb Butte near Palo Verde
Mojave Choss Fest
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
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Those photos of the Mojave remind me of the Sinai Peninsula. Really striking. About as barren a landscape as one can image, the difference being, in the latter, people have eeked out a hardscrabble existence for thousands of years.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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A little spot below the 79 where F10 and I put up a few routes.
Where is the "79"?
Fat... PEOPLE have been living here for 10,000 years at least... just saying.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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That's Highway 79, near Descanso, CA east of San Diego.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
|
Guy, maybe what he is implying is that they only managed to eke out a living
in the Sinai while the people here were living large. I mean they don't call
it the 'Golden State' for nothing, right?
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
OK, not obscure although I'll wager not many of you have seen it from this perspective:
And how many have visited this little gem across the lake?
Regional Indian Museum
There's these right above the parking lot:
For yer edification:
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
|
Reilly, have they still got a picnic table at the base of that big rock?
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
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Feb 25, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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Guyman, Offwhite's got the general vicinity correct.....heading north from highway 8 and between Descanso and Oakzanita.
Another view of it.
And a little pinnacle just up the road, past Green Valley campground
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
|
Thanx.... I don't get down in SD much. My Grandparents were instrumental in the original development of Rancho Bernardo, way way back when one could ride a mini-bike east with out anybody getting uptight.
Been thinking about figuring out the camping scene, climbing scene, after all the post here about the cool climbing.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 25, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
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AM at Descanso Falls
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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I'm about ready to give this choss pile a go.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
|
Obscura, for sure.
TY
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 26, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
|
Off...is that you on the right?
So Spider. A Texas Canyon clone???
TY.... some place in the AF?
Lots of rockpiles on Mt. Waterman, Rincon and I hiked from around where the Horse Flat road leaves the Crest Hwy... Pacific crest trail for a bit... around to the south faceing side of Waterman. Up hill for about 30 min to a formation .... a crack running right up it, it went about 10b, no pinscars nothing. I wish we hauled a camera, I can't believe no one has claimed the FA. It was a FA for us.
keep em coming.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 26, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
|
any pictures of the Orange Boulder that was up behind the school on the El Modena grade?
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
|
Yes, circa 1977.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
|
FAs fer Days
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 11, 2013 - 12:13am PT
|
So nothing fits in those cracks?
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JMC
climber
the land of milk and honey
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Mar 11, 2013 - 04:47am PT
|
TFish, is that up Big T somewhere?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Mar 11, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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I have a cam in below me, and the other cracks are really thin seams, I put a piton in one real quick, but nothing else would work. And then the vertical crack at the top looks like it could break the rock if you fell on a cam.
Yeah, up near there.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
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Mar 11, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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Great fun!
TY
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 11, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
|
^^cock rock
Tfish - Did you finish it & have you sent it clean?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Mar 11, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
|
That ground up bolting pic needs to go in the ground up thread.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Mar 12, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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Matty, Nah not yet, it started pouring on us so we left.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Mar 12, 2013 - 08:42am PT
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Mar 13, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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Another ground up FA. Trad gear for the whole route, and bolted anchors from a stance. It went at 5.9.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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Thinking of heading up to the Tunnel Crag this week. The last time I climbed there was probably 15 years ago. I'm looking for some new route info. I saw a guide recently online but the resolution was pretty poor. It looks like there are a tone of new routes and I'd like to have some idea what I'm jumping on. Any new guided out there or at least a link with better resolution?
Thanks
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jstn
Trad climber
monrovia, ca
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Jun 22, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
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I saw no signs of previous climbing. Most stuff is short with bad landings. Many problems would be quite stout. Stone is good to excellent. A few fun moderates, including a finger crack. 10-15 feet make up most, maybe a couple 20 footers.
Vetter Mountain. Wait for winter and hit it up for some FA's
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 11, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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I was looking on google earth for rock up the crest and saw Vetter and it looked like it had a huge slab, but when I went there it was flat. But I climbed a few of the boulders and they were pretty cool. The rock was chossy in some spots from the fire, but def a fun day of climbing.
I went to this choss pile the other day. Even the holds that were reinforced with glue with breaking off.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 11, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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T-fish.... is that the Mt. Wilson, tripper spot??????
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10b4me
Ice climber
Middle-of-Nowhere, Arizona
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Jul 11, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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Jeff, the Pacifico road is NOT open(as of two weeks ago). It was supposedly going to open on May 25th.
yeah, looks like TJs place.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 11, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Yeah it's near Wilson. It's by the big U turn after swtizers, but before Red Box/Mt Wilson Road.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 11, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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Jack says it's good... but not much below 5.10...
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 11, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Its a cool looking spot, but the route we did was prolly the worst quality rock I've climbed. Maybe the other lines are better, but I'm not going back there. And yeah, this was the easiest line there at like 10d/11a.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 11, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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Is that Jack's Crag?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 11, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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I have like 2 more routes to bolt and then I'll be dropping details about my secret socal spot with like 15 routes from 5.7-5.11a.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 11, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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I have like 2 more routes to bolt and then I'll be dropping details about my secret socal spot with like 15 routes from 5.7-5.11a.
Cool let me know, looking FWD to them
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jul 13, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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I lived at Snow Creek (NW of Palm Springs) for about a year in the late 80s. There is alot of very good boulders (and some multi-pitch potential) all over the place.
(San Jacinto seen in left background)
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 26, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
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2 more obscure pics. FA of a rad undercling to a slab up Angeles Crest on super bomber granite and a trad lead at Crystal Lake.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 26, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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Would it be evil if I put this crag on MountainProject.com?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 26, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
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Would it be evil if I put this crag on MountainProject.com?
No not at all.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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jstn
Trad climber
monrovia, ca
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Tfish, right on that you went to Vetter.
I saw that huge slab from the road and was pretty psyched, but as you mentioned it was basically flat.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Oct 10, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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The road to pacfico was open today! I didn't go up there but saw the gate was open.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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I found a cool boulder up Angeles Crest Today. It was all wet so I didnt try it, but it looks really fun. It looks like it has mainly V0s and a few V2-V4s with easy top outs. It's right off the side of the road.
Drive exactly 1 mile past islip saddle and it's on the right (south) side of the road. Theres a small turnout to park in too.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Oct 10, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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I know that rock!
We were bouldering on it about a month or so, ago. Me, jeff, and guy did a few problems on the right side. Top outs on the left side would need to be swept off, or it would be way sketchy with all the gravel and rocks on top.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Dec 28, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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Looks like it's near Spring Crag.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 15, 2014 - 10:35pm PT
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 01:06am PT
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Nice Chris, I'm heading up to Bishop Pass for a little back country skiing tomorrow, when I get back I'll add some more holds to the wall. We should get together at Brand for a evening session next week.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 16, 2014 - 02:13am PT
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That Tfish choss pic is, umm, messy.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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It's always rad finding amazing rock when there's so much choss.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Bolted a real fun 10d on some J Tree rock up the crest.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I found this chossy beast today. A few fun V0-V2s and a burly little off width crack.
Edit- this thing might have been better, but the fire messed it up. I'm def the first person to climb it for awhile. I was flaking stuff off all over the place.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Hey, isn't that the rock right next to the AFH about a 1/2 mile from Clear Creek Station? I've looked at it a million times, but never stopped!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Yep it's right there.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Just found another new crag today. No signs of other climbers except for 1 hanger less star drive bolt about 5 feet up. It looked like a bailed ground up attempt. The fire really messed up the rock, and it's really flaky, but I cleaned up some lines today. Can't wait to go lead them on trad gear. The rock is really similar to J Tree, it looks and feels the same and the formations and cracks are similar too.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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God damn you're good.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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worthy choss hunting bump
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Skip and I were just complaining today about how the rock around Bishop is not nearly as chossy as we prefer - missing the SoCal looseness...
a little...
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Angeles National Monument. :^) Nice scenery photo, Jeff.
Ray Palmer and I climbed the boltless run out graveled (south ?) side of Pacifico ca 1969. We tied off a KB and pounded in a stubby Leeper for pro. Paul and I revisited in '85.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Tfish that one really got fried bt the fire. I climbed the slabby face up the west side once. Couldn't find much else to do, just bouldering it. If you go up the ridge you'll find more stuff. Not far up is a rock with a small roof that would be a good tr or lead maybe, but it's only like 20 feet. Then much farther up is some good formations in an awesome location. Not huge stuff, but excellent rock. Guy and I tr'd a really good crack climb and some other lines. From there drop down the north side towards the road and there are more rocks. One has a bolted face climb that has a josh feel to it. You can see it from the 2 when you're heading down from the 6000' gate.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Rincon, I haven't gone all the way up to that crack yet. I've done the bolted line on that one by the 6,000ft mark. I also bolted a 10d on the side of that rock too.
At the 3 points all the cracks were pretty fun. I'm going back today to climb them again.
Is this the short one you were talking about? I saw it but didn't hop on it. It looks fun.
I still haven't been to Alder Creek yet, I've heard a ton about it though.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Lots of fun boulders scattered along the ridge east of 3 Points. A bit of hiking involved but a beautiful place in general.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Looking for partners to explore this stuff a few times per month. Mr Savage?
I live close enough for Angeles Crest to be an after-work crag in the summer and easy half-days on winter weekends. Anyone else like to head up there these days?
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Yep, that's the one tfish.
Hey Jeff nice shot!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Yay. Jeff is back.
Nujob... I'm down. Maybe we can get Batrock and Tfish and make it a foursome.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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F*#k yeah. Ground up sh#t Jeff. Thanks for inspiring me to not be a rap bolting soft c*#k and to put routes up on lead. It is 1,000 times better and so much more worth it.
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jeff constine
Social climber
Marina Del Rey
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Oct 10, 2014 - 10:57am PT
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2015 - 02:01pm PT
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A few weeks ago a friend and I attempted a foolish ridge line starting between the tunneles at the Tunnel Crags and worked our way up the ridge above the first tunnel to the west. It was mostly choss, well ok it was all choss but it was a fun adventure anyway. We ended up bailing at a giant Jenga tower and made several rappers into the gully to the west. It was a fun way to waste an afternoon.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
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Found this gem a while back but am keeping the lid on it for now. It's a ways off the road anyway so no real danger of overcrowding. Three pitches of 5.10 hands.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 10, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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Bat... you guys are hard core....
If you sit between the tunnels and look up that ridge, some kind of rock is going to fall down on its own every 7 min or so..... gravity at work.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 10, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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Bat... you guys are hard core....
No kidding, it takes huge gonads to climb San Gabriel rock. If you can call it rock...
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 11, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
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Hiking through Griffith Park late yesterday and ran into a couple of dudes on a new sport route on Bee Rock. And so it begins.
Looks like crap from a distance but not bad up close.
My general knowledge is that there was an official ban in the 1930's.
A friend of mine called the ranger station in 1995 and asked about it. Someone told him they don't care if people rock climb up there.
I think as long as we all keep it on the low down, keep it clean and don't make problems, things will go fine.
Then again, it could suddenly become the "pop" LA crag and the place gets overrun and people start having "problems" with each other.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2015 - 08:04am PT
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Spider,
We should go check that out soon. I'd also like to check out the old zoo for bouldering.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:24am PT
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We ended up bailing at a giant Jenga tower
What the hay is a 'Jenga tower'? A variation on 'jingus'?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Jenga is that game of stacked wood blocks where each player carefully removes one block at a time without it falling apart. As the game moves on the tower gets more and more unstable until one player finally pulls a block and the whole tower comes tumbling down. Thats what it felt like climbing up there.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 15, 2015 - 10:58pm PT
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I've got time the next two weekends...
Unless the allure of day trips skiing near Kearsarge Pk beckon more loudly! But a day of choss-hunting would be good for my soul
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hustler
Trad climber
los angeles
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Mar 17, 2015 - 06:48pm PT
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Just a heads up on Griffith. The climbs are mostly 11+/12 and could still use some cleaning. Oh, and one has a big scary hollow sounding block, you can probably figure out which one. enjoy.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Yous guys need to go to the Cascades or the Rockies - your talents
are wasted hereabouts on these puny things.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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New route at the Saline this a few weeks ago. Monkey Tranquilizer follows a off width first pitch to hand crack second pitch, both pitches 5.9
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2016 - 03:37pm PT
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Just replaced old rap anchors and bolts on the climb between the two tunnels that starts right above the west tunnel. I left one old bolt at the top on easy ground for posterity sake.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 30, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
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Bat.... for the good of the people, you should have pulled all of the bolts on that climb, and the one to the right.... all of that stone is shattered quite deeply due to the numerous blasting episodes above the tunnel.
This is just my opinion, if one likes really deep down looseness this is the climb for you.
carry on
EDIT: Saline stuff looks really good.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2016 - 03:58pm PT
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Guy,
I really like both of those climbs. I always find myself going back and doing them every few months. Both have some good run outs that you don't find much anymore and require you to be heads up. The occasional loose rock just adds to the fun. I did add a bolt on the left route to avoid a ledge fall while pulling the small roof.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 30, 2016 - 04:16pm PT
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Saline route looks sweet! Love the name Monkey Tranquilizer, too.
Does anyone travel to SoCal for the climbing or is it just Socal people who climb there when they don't feel like going far? Is it a worthy destination?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Mar 30, 2016 - 04:24pm PT
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Places like Tahquitz, Suicide and JT are crap. Stay away, barely worth the drive out from LB for me.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 17, 2016 - 09:40am PT
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That crag Pacific-o is a Pile.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 17, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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If Coz Likes it, It must be good to go go. Coz at the top of the second pitch.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
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Apr 17, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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yes but not tall enough.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 17, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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FROM THE MESS I POSTED YA' ALL CAN TELl , if not though I have great RESPECT.
Thanx for posting
& savor them wee rocks, too
it is all some of us have to play with.
GREETINGS FROM SMALL ROCK HELL
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2016 - 02:53pm PT
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Pacifico has a few fun routes on the main face. Also a few longer routes up and to the right go the main face. One was a pretty fun shallow right facing corner and another took a line up a narrow buttress. Not a destination crag but fun when it's hot in the valley.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 17, 2016 - 08:29pm PT
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All you guys got are choss and pebbles?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:52am PT
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Slab out at a low grade.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:59am PT
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Sewelly, did you fire this bad boy at Pacifico?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Batrock, or other potential partners, Pacifico daytrip next weekend? I can't do a weekday this week.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 18, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Pacifico was one of Royal's favorite spots. A few years ago he would camp there when visiting LA. The routes are not long and they are few but it's a beautiful setting with fun featured granite.
Can't make it this weekend but we should go sometime soon.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2016 - 10:04am PT
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Scott,
We would have to ride in on bikes since the gate is still closed. I spent a lot of time there as a kid, my dad took my brother and i there to climb and camp back in the 70's. Fun place but huge rattlesnakes, watch yer step!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2016 - 10:13am PT
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I'm heading to the Stronghold in a bit if anyone wants a belay? Probably be there around 11:30. Medusa got a comercial SAG gig so my Tunnel partner fell through for today.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
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Apr 19, 2016 - 04:47pm PT
|
bump,
photos to be motivated by,
as Cosmic says yes,
and throw up more great pictures,
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
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San Diego Obscura-
I ran across this little dome and forest boulder field in a mountaintop bowl, nestled amongst old growth Cedars and Pines. It's now closed, unfortunately.
No pictures of current Obscura...
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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Apr 19, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
|
Please keep bikes off the PCT. Thank you.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
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Williamson Rock from Mt Williamson last night.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2016 - 03:50pm PT
|
Took my old lady climbing up at the Tunnel Crag today and had a real boss time.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 19, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
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More and more new route. Tunnels. Fits the description Obscura exactly.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Aug 22, 2016 - 07:29am PT
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Took a Mtn bike ride up to Pacifico yesterday. Contrary to what I had been told by the forest circus, the road remains closed.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Aug 24, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
|
Eagle Rock: Didn't notice if this place was mentioned yet.
I don't remember where it is exactly but you could see it from the freeway while still in the metropolitan city of LA on the way to JT and TQ.
We stopped there once and found it to be conglomerate sand with river rocks embedded in it. There were a few bolted routes we could see. But when we found one of the river rocks on the ground with bolt and hanger still in it we bailed.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Lounging in the path of heroes-
Kauk, Bard, Worrall, Fred Nicole.....
until the loppers and pick axes came out.
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adenparker
climber
|
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Dec 14, 2016 - 10:06pm PT
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Some fun boulders we've been climbing on
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 14, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
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Looks legit
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adenparker
climber
|
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Dec 16, 2016 - 09:41am PT
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More photos from a few different places
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
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Dec 16, 2016 - 10:28am PT
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Both trad and "sport" at this little gem. Sweeter when the water fall is flowing.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Dec 16, 2016 - 12:35pm PT
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Not rock, but just as obscure and far more temporary.
TY
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
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Tony, is that the ice you were telling me about a few weeks ago? Up in Angeles Crest?
I may need to buy some new boots and get back into ice if it is.
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adenparker
climber
|
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Dec 16, 2016 - 01:42pm PT
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Thanks Warbler! You as well. That Sharma Arete is tough, still workin on it. The one just to the right seems impossible! There's some great stuff down there...the rock and the features are amazing.
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adenparker
climber
|
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Dec 16, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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For sure. And we haven't even been up to Rainbow proper..one day!
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adenparker
climber
|
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Dec 16, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
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Man...that's really a shame. So many access issues guarding such rad areas in SD county. It bums me out!
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adenparker
climber
|
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Dec 16, 2016 - 04:26pm PT
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Woot! I hope so too.
We are experiencing minor access issues ourselves with this place. It's technically public land but would be sensitive to crowds. We're also just milking it while we can haha.
It's not just bouldering, too. Only 4 routes right now, but more on the way.
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 16, 2016 - 10:05pm PT
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Damn! I gave it away. I knew I was risking it with that pic haha. The Warbler knows all...
I actually haven't been on the routes myself, but the photos look great. I plan on getting on them within these next couple weeks.
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adenparker
climber
|
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Dec 17, 2016 - 08:32am PT
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So what's the deal with this place? I know someone who's been there and I'm pretty sure I know where it's at.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 17, 2016 - 08:51am PT
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looks like Choss...... don't bother.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 17, 2016 - 09:59pm PT
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a wink + two choss posts, means its under the radar and probably will yield good lines once bolted.
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 11:51am PT
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Damn. Sounds epic. Is it accessible? I think I remember hearing about two entry points, one through private property and the other was public but longer. I'm pretty positive I found the cliff on google earth.
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 02:57pm PT
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It sounds amazing. I'll have to try to make it out there sometime. I've been to Eagle Peak a few times and plan on going back soon. It's pretty incredible there..can't wait to go when it's not 80 degrees out!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Dec 18, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
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Oh… That reminds me…
At the end of March, I rode my MTB up Barrett Stoddard Truck trail. This fine and obscure ride departs from Mt. Baldy Road near the Valley of The Trash—another ancient and obscure climbing site—not all that far from the Baldy Boulders.
While I was focused on descending into Stoddard Canyon and then climbing Frankish Peak, I chanced to traverse below some very hunkish cliffs right above the truck trail. Equipped with fixed ropes and everything…
Who wants to fess up to this bit of obscura? Hmmm?
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john bald
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 05:33pm PT
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Peater....here's a pic from Eagle Rock
I put up two routes there while in high school, circa 1970/71.
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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So would I be able to check that place out? Or is it private? I'm so psyched on it
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 08:23pm PT
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Brutal. Probably worth it though 😝. Is it mountain bike-able? Or at least partly?
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 18, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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Haha, guess I gotta get access to a heli then.
Sent you an email...thanks for all the info dude!
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Dec 18, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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John Bald !!
Eagle Rock: There are places to die for, but other places to die at. Thanks that you are still around.
Please supply directions to anyone that you don't like and want's to go there.
:)
P
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adenparker
climber
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Dec 19, 2016 - 11:48pm PT
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Ah thanks. Sent it again.
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 16, 2017 - 11:05am PT
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Some more of the "good stuff"! Photo credits to Jed on the last 3.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Jan 16, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
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Local bouldering, most holds are off.
On the way up
Topping out
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
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Juggy!
Ok, if cultured stone is on, let's talk Ventura Vagabond with Surfer's point just across the 101 and Spencer Mackenzie's fish tacos next door.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:47pm PT
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Contractor! Is that place still there. Used to live almost across the street.
The old Gramicci building on La Palma Drive, near the old Patagonia warehouse had some world class buildering.
Not kidding. Wish I had photos but you couldn't imagine a building more made for buildering. And that sold Fire's too. If you could make it to the top a tree decent was the only way down.
I think J.Woodward actually put together a "guide book" to the "area".
Several craters were made but no one was ever seriously hurt.
I couldn't propose any ratings for the place but everything was very hard and probably R/X due to some of the landings.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 17, 2017 - 06:33am PT
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Peater- That's a great story, any climbing near surf is special.
The Vagabond- still there, I'd feel safer surfing the Tijuana river mouth than going in that Jacuzzi, but the foot bridge to Surfer's Point, Oxnard A frames and Mackenzie's fish tacos- golden.
I did some bouldering up at the Hideout (I think that's the name) on my last trip- meh...
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 17, 2017 - 09:13am PT
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Warbler-
I finally got out there and loved it. It's unique in many ways but mostly the proximity of the top anchors to the lip. I imagine there's quite a few routes safely accessible from the top?!
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Friend
climber
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Jan 17, 2017 - 09:40am PT
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I'd feel safer surfing the Tijuana river mouth than going in that Jacuzzi
That's classic Contractor!
In Aden's last photo you can see, front and center, what struck me as the prettiest line in the place. Took a couple tries to figure out the last move but once I did I climbed it again and again. I was stoked to be told it was an FA. Right place, right time.
Eighth Birthday 5.11+
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 17, 2017 - 10:23am PT
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Yes Eagle. As soon as I saw the set up, the implications were obvious. I already picked up a 300 foot static, my new partner!
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john bald
climber
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Jan 17, 2017 - 12:10pm PT
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For Peater............your old boss in action!
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Jan 17, 2017 - 10:23pm PT
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John Bald thank you! and Contractor check it out.
Seriously it may not be R/X but just may be R. Johns photo is of the safe side. On the other it's 30' of vertical that could not be engineered in any gym climb that I've ever seen. You can see the tree decent to the right.
The routes are all vertical, and it just depended on how many holds there were on any particular problem or how big they were
I don't know if copies J Woodward's guide book exist but they showed people being carted off on gurneys. It was hilarious.
Warbler, you've been there I think.
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Jan 18, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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The Gramicci Wall. Hilarious. What a crag! The best in Ventura County. The unique thing about it is the cinder block is flush everywhere with the exception of these distinct flanges on the sides of the occasional block which make for specific holds and specific problems. I looked everywhere in Ventura and Oxnard for something similar and found nothing else. The wall left of the arete Mike is on is 150 feet of highball splendor. Both Dick Leversee and myself blew the miniscus in our left knee on the same rockover move on one of the problems. I made a joke guidebook for Mike for his birthday once. He may still have it. Long live 'The Phantom'.
jw
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 18, 2017 - 12:27pm PT
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Warbler.... stop stop... your killing me!!! I'm trapped in a cubicle with 110 training modules to complete by the 1/23/2017.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 18, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
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Baby Face?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 18, 2017 - 02:51pm PT
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Warbler... you killing me softly!!!
Yes that does look very slabby, has it gone no hands?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jan 18, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Great shot of the Gramicci wall... That thing was heinous. And, there were no bouldering pads back then and the blacktop landing, though level, did a number on your knees.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jan 18, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
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Thanks for the beta Warbler. I plan on spending some time out there.
That particular strata of rock is pretty unique to San Diego. It runs along the San Diego River Valley over to Corta Madera and the upper Cottonwood Creek drainage. There's a thin vein on parts of Woodson as well.
The bad rap is that these crags look like big dirt clods from a distance.
The boulders produced from the crags are great as well.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jan 18, 2017 - 06:29pm PT
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love that last shot Kevin. Makes me want to lace up as well!
TY
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 19, 2017 - 09:24pm PT
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Wow, that dike feature is amazing!
Is it still possible to climb at the T-Domes? I imagine bolts would be old/rusty..but is it private property?
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 21, 2017 - 09:22am PT
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They sound/look pretty rad. Maybe I'll try to check them out sometime!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 22, 2017 - 10:18am PT
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^^^ looks pretty tasty Jeff
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 03:55pm PT
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As soon as the weather clears it's time to head back out. The Saline is calling.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Love to do another trip out to Saline as soon as it warms up a bit Batrock.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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God Jeff, why are you always such an as#@&%e!?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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^^^^^That sounds like my future therapy slab.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Great looking slab Warbler. Is it still in the secret file?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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^^^ that's a big move
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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adenparker, have you come across any of the fixed pins? I climbed there late 70's/early 80's and found three, as I recall. No clue who the FA's were that placed em. Quality rock and such a cool canyon.
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adenparker
climber
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Were they on the waterfall or the main wall? It may have been Chris Hubbard..not sure though. I haven't seen any yet, but I'll keep an eye out! Did you climb there much? I'd be curious to know what routes you did
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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I did two first ascents on a 100' cliff to the left of the main wall. Alpingardin 5.11a thin hands with Gary Anderson, and Commodity crack 5.10 with Brian Spiewak and Trisha Santos. Minty rock and a great vibe there. I climbed on the main wall with Jesus Ledezma around 1995. We did a repeat of an established 5.10 which had bolts, gear, and a fixed pin or two.
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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No, not on the waterfall, on the main wall. Most likely on the most obvious lines of weakness as that's pretty much what I was then... weak! Only climbed there a few times when it was still accessible by hiking up the canyon. I remember scaring the chit outta my bro making him follow me as we thrashed our way up the main wall.
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adenparker
climber
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Chris, Ben told me you guys did some routes over on that cliff, looks like a good chunk of stone! I want to check it out. Do you know who established that 5.10 on the main cliff?
There's a nice looking line that follows a very obvious weakness up the cliff, I'd be surprised if it hasn't been done, but it doesn't really look like it has been.
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 13, 2017 - 02:06pm PT
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Look what we found yesterday..
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Feb 13, 2017 - 06:18pm PT
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Imagine a route gets climbed in 1980. That is thirty seven years ago. All the grass and scrub plants grow a lot in three years, never mind ten years. An oak tree can grow twenty five feet in thirty years. Throw in some loose dirt and sand and a few exfoliated flakes from a wild-fire and it is easy to think you are doing a true first ascent. What is usually the case in San Diego at least is that nobody has climbed something for a quarter century. We climb these things and laugh and call it the second first ascent. I think it was Warbler who came up with that joke. What matters to me is what kind of adventure did I have on a given day. I like to record what date I did such and such route. A reference point in time. If there is no printed record of a boulder problem or route, I might give it my own name just for easy memory of which route is which... there are thousands. There are no rules. The whole game of climbing is in the spirit of good fun deep play.
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 14, 2017 - 07:12am PT
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You may be thinking of a different Aden Parker.. I used to live in SLC before I moved to San Diego. That's funny though, don't think I've heard of another Aden Parker either.
The piton was at the top of the cliff. Not sure what route it was for though. Pretty crazy to find things like that...I'm gonna have to start using that second first ascent thing! Hahaha
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Feb 14, 2017 - 09:37pm PT
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There is Contractor in the middle of it.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Feb 14, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 15, 2017 - 06:57am PT
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Big Ben Boulder!
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 25, 2017 - 08:40pm PT
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This boulder is incredible. One of the best in San Diego that I've been on!! A Chris Hubbard/Brian Spiewak find I believe. We thought it was pretty reminiscent of the Buttermilks.
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adenparker
climber
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Mar 12, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
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Anybody recognize/know anything about this place? Found some old bolts on top of one of these walls.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 16, 2017 - 01:43pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 17, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
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Reilly, are those pictographs?
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Mar 18, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2017 - 02:18pm PT
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Friend
climber
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Mar 26, 2017 - 04:40pm PT
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Chalking up, psyching up. first ascent
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nov 14, 2017 - 11:54pm PT
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Ice climbing in so cal... Obscure anchor in a not so obscure place.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Dec 11, 2017 - 09:25pm PT
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Prospecting here soon.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Bump
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2018 - 09:38am PT
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Strawberry Peak
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Pete_N
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Back in the early to mid 90's I worked for A16 and a co-worker, Dave Casper, introduced me to a quarry east of Rancho Santa Fe and (probably) approaching Olivenhain. As I recall, you worked your way through a maze of roads past fancy houses and horse properties and then bumped your way over a short 4wd track through the chaparral. Dave and his friends had bolted 5-8 short (35-40'?) sport routes from 10a to 12- on some funky metamorphic rock. I've tried to find again, during the odd trip back to visit family in the area and couldn't do it. I'm sure the land was private, but we never got hassled. It was a pretty fun spot, particularly for being so close to the coast and having it entirely to ourselves. Sound familiar to anyone? I've spent some time on Google Earth, too, trying to find it, but that area has been built up since then, and I haven't gotten anywhere.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Pete, you are thinking of Spooks Canyon. It was blasted to dust. All gone. A house is there now. Nobody in this case had the vision to build the house onto the crag.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I love this thread. Always curious about the north side of Strawberry Peak. Interesting that despite its current obscurity, older climbers such as John Mendenhall, etc., had put up stuff on it.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2018 - 12:27pm PT
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When I was helping Troy Mayr put together the first So Cal Sport Climbing gude RJ Secor sent us a hand drawn too of the North Face of Strawberry Peak that he had received from John and Ruth Mendenhall, I wish I knew where I put it, I am sure I will stumble upon it someday. That same year 1992? I climbed a route on the right side of the face on New Years day. I just remember it being super loose and way runout. Godzilla Revenge at least the first pitch is fairly solid once you clear the dirt out of the cracks.
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Pete_N
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Damn. Thanks for the info about the quarry. Is there a poetic beauty about that particular set of memories having been obliterated?!
Just for the obscura record...has any one mentioned People's Wall in La Jolla? Not much broken glass, though, so maybe it doesn't rate! ;-)
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 10, 2018 - 08:52am PT
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Alex, Big wall rack for a 20-foot climb lol!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 10, 2018 - 04:06pm PT
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Grandpa sending 7B+ still going good! Chad says come out with us sometime we shall see the real deal.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2018 - 05:32pm PT
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So Cal big wall. South of Lone Pine between the Sierra and the Nevada line.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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How big is that thing? I mightknow it, but I have never walked out there.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2018 - 12:56pm PT
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Tom,
The picture above is a section about 400’ but there is a tier above that rises another 400-500’. If you know what road to take you can drive to within a quarter mile of the wall but it’s a steep quarter mile. Check you FB messages, I sent you some more info on it.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2018 - 03:03pm PT
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New routing in the desert.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 24, 2018 - 10:43pm PT
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Lookin’ gorgeous!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Somewhere just east of Pt. Mugu?
Perhaps near the Morrows of SLO- foliage seems wrong for this area.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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So much rock in CA!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2019 - 01:21pm PT
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Biotch, that brush looks 20’ high. Needs a fire to go through and clean it up a bit and make the access a little easier.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2019 - 01:40pm PT
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Sewelly,
There’s an old star drive bolt or two of mine on that formation from some aid practice waaaaaay back in the day.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Im really surprised I only found 1 star drive bolt on that formation. You can see it from the road and its right off the PCT. Someone probably climbed the cracks back in the day but I had to do a descent amount of cleaning to get the routes good. Its a rad spot to bang out a bunch of short leads fast. Especially since there isnt a ton on trad in LA.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Mar 11, 2019 - 03:01pm PT
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99,000 Purple Boulders......or more.
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| Messages 1 - 484 of total 484 in this topic |
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