What is the ultimate slab route?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 61 - 80 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Dec 2, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Freewheelin' on Middle Cathedral is my current favorite
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Dec 2, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
Check this out...Slab Daddy (V 5.10+ A0) Squire Creek Wall near Darrington, Washington. I haven't done it but "50" who posts here sometimes did it with one of his buddies last summer.

gonamok

climber
aging malcontent
Dec 2, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
holy cow, how many pitches is that thing?
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Dec 2, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
here's the topo

squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Dec 2, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
slick rock, crystal basin
ec

climber
ca
Dec 3, 2010 - 12:09am PT
The left skyline of the dome on the right...Cherubim Dome, The Archangel Route, 10 pitches, 5.10 A0...in one of the most beautiful places ever!
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 3, 2010 - 12:12am PT
Ah, The Cherubim Dome. Amazing place, that.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Dec 3, 2010 - 12:35am PT
have you guys been to skyline slabs?

we got the sh#t workin down there like nobody's bidness,

sandstone is the only real slab.

why? because.

it has about 15.7 times the variations in holds that granite has.

you get up there, and you say, next hold: should i take the chicken head?
pinch the cranberry?
finger bang the ant hole?
reach into the bat cave?
mantle up the friction crack? .....


no wait, no good cracks in sand stone,

can i pull this post? i just made an ass out myself, is it too late to retract this dribble?

is it too late to load up some more Gush?

we think not, for we have seen the light, and it was black,
50

climber
Stumptown
Dec 3, 2010 - 01:37am PT
...and Slab Daddy is a fine route indeed Tradster. Most of the pitches are as solid as the best pitches I've done on GPA and the 5.10 pitches are smeary slab, hardly any edging. The rock doesn't have the sandy ball-bearing stuff that can spoil a route. The only down side to Slab Daddy that takes away from the "ultimate" status, for me at least, is the huge ledges on the lower section. Its just not as cool as the GPA's small belay stances and "pinnacles". But it gets better up higher; its steeper and more exposed.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/978936/Who-s-yo-Daddy-Washington-s-New-Big-Wall-Slab


Other great slab routes that come to mind:

Silent Running
Grack Marginal
Ochre Fields
Hoppy's Favorite
Deep Throat
Scimitar
Table of Contents

Balcony bivy, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Balcony bivy, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Credit: Scraptee Collection
Pitch 12 above the Balcony bivy, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Pitch 12 above the Balcony bivy, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Credit: 50
Great moves on the Feature pitch, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Great moves on the Feature pitch, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Credit: 50
Pitch 15, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Pitch 15, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Credit: 50
Beautiful quartz-rich dike on pitch 16, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Beautiful quartz-rich dike on pitch 16, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Credit: 50
Terry coping with the leaders mistake of using a long sling on pitch 1...
Terry coping with the leaders mistake of using a long sling on pitch 17, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Credit: 50
Pitch 18, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Pitch 18, Slab Daddy, Darrington, WA
Credit: 50


nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 3, 2010 - 02:34am PT

Moderate but super fun... Tenaya Peak
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Dec 3, 2010 - 09:33am PT
that slab daddy looks like a great adventure! Don't think I would bring the bivy stuff however. A good long summers day
Adamame

Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 3, 2010 - 09:45am PT
A solo of the final slab on Royal Arches that gains the rim when covered with pine needles.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 3, 2010 - 10:00am PT
This is a short one, but it is pretty hard.

K. Solem showing good footwork, some JT slab. "Games" 13a
K. Solem showing good footwork, some JT slab. "Games" 13a
Credit: guyman

I like slabs. I get to use 37 years of acquired edging skills.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Jan 13, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
Bump

Cause you gotta love those multi-pitch, runout, pucker fests.........
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Jan 13, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
"set the controls for the heart of the sun" across the road from calveras....

It should win for best name.
Hankster

Social climber
Zakynthos
Jan 13, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
without even looking through this thread I 1st thought Southern Belle.
kc

Trad climber
the cats
Jan 13, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
All slabs are ultimately humbling, humiliating, or horrifying.

Sigh.

However, slabs make me a better climber, so I do them. Grudgingly.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Jan 14, 2012 - 12:18am PT
I drafted up a poem about MCatheralR north apron's "Cat Dancing" the other rainy day. Since it's on my office's pc, I've no choice but to leave you hanging suspended from some sun bleached and frayed slings until I can post it up like tomorrow.

GPA leads include Dead Babies and Ephemeral Clog Dance at my upper limit. Muchos grande following GPA Chiropodist's Shop, and saving Burk's life on his FA of The Token. Misty Beetoven 3x, including a trip up to the 4th or 5th stance w/Scott.

Followed the first of several pitches of Mother's Lament, Tightrope, led Hoppy's up to our previous high point, but still below Hoppy's Creed, or the real business pitches.

I led the 1st pitch of Middle Cathedral's Cat Dancing 5x before I finally finessed its 2nd pitch. I'll save my comments, such as they may be, for later.

Nice to have been led up both Quicksilver and Freewheeling in the same vicinity. Leading nearby Ramer, (or WTF) is great, but it is technically sport-pro'ed.

Onsight lead of the bottom half of Dream On, which is not too shabby when you take into account the runouts, the 1500 mile drive to Squeemish, and the fact that I had to troll for a partner (just don't let go of the Rope!) on my arrival.

To draw my chest beating to a welcome close, let me conclude by mentioning that I bought most of Russ McClean's pin rack at a local yard sale he'd conducted. Tired of being the builder, he, somewhat older than I, had put his course upon an architectural education, the required M.Arch degree, and, after an 8 year internship (including school), professional registration. At the time, I was aware of his FA Lucifer's to Oasis.

But, I didn't offer any career advice, but simply paid $20 for a milk crate full of mostly useless iron. With enough KB's and other thins to make it worthwhile financially - mostly I just wanted to meet Russ.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 14, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
I would say that the ultimate slab route has yet to be done and lies on the East Face of Mt. Watkins to the west of "Escape from Freedom" (VI 5.12c) that Urmas Franosch and I did back in 1988. Scott Burke did some exploring in that area back in 1987 and traversed out to the big water holes at the base of the huge face. It's certainly there, but no one has put a shoe on it in over 20 years. Logistics are a problem certainly, but talk about an epic slab route in the 5.13 range! Never seen anything that even comes close to the potential slab climb that exists in embryo out there.

Credit: Bruce Morris

Only trouble is that anyone who would do it nowadays would rap bolt it, rather than lead it ground up. But what the heck! Sure would be an amazing adventure no matter what way it was done. So, okay kids, get those 120+ lb packs ready and start hauling in water for a real epic siege!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Jan 14, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Looking down from the top anchor on "Ocean King" Kings Canyon NP
Looking down from the top anchor on "Ocean King" Kings Canyon NP
Credit: HighGravity
Messages 61 - 80 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews