Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 122 of total 122 in this topic |
Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 7, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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This is a link to a short film I directed about fellow taco members Andrew Rock (DROID) and Jan McCollum (G_Gnome) climbing the historic Bachar-Yerian 5.11c R/X in Tuolumne Meadows last summer. Andrew trained for 8 months for the onsight attempt and he had a huge group of people from Stoney Point come up to the meadows to support him. Watching him and Jan fulfill a long life dream was a great experience and I'm psyched we were able to capture it on film, er, video. Hope you enjoy!
http://vimeo.com/14878084
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Cole - I gotta tell ya, man...you are one gifted guy. That was fantastic! Thanks!! Don't EVER stop doing this!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I was in the hood that day...
You could hear the roar from the roadside crowd after the Bizness section went down.
Very proud.
Mucci
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DonC
climber
CA
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very nice!
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Great video. Thanks!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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great job on the vid and of course great job on the climb.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Inspiring. Beautiful. Bold. A climbing and film making tribute to Bachar and the Stonemasters. Thanks for sharing.
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delendaest
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Hands down, that was the best climbing video I've ever seen, strong work. I'll be looking forward to watching the rest of your videos. And oh yeah, that was some superb climbing too!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Really nice film and congrats to Andrew and The Gonme. Well Jan you must have taken a little time off from sailing to work on this:)
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Prod
Trad climber
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Nice video, I would be proud of that for sure.
Prod.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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best climbing narrative I've seen told with video
congrats to the climbers
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Great job Cole, a really great video. And congrats to the climbers.
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WBraun
climber
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Nice ... real nice.
Andrew, you sure are smooth and nice shirt, all you guys rock!!!!
What a beautiful setting ....
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Eubanks
Big Wall climber
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Super cool! what a " Tribute ". Good job guys, and congrats.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Outstanding!
Pat yourselves on the back for a job well done.
Good work documenting that, Mr Gibson.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks for that video!
great send you guys!!
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adam d
climber
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Wow...thanks! well done on all counts.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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very nice cole you do have that touch
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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PROUD VIDEO AND CLIMBING!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2010 - 02:35am PT
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Thanks guys for all the the nice comments, I'm so psyched you like it!
Telling this story was a ton of fun and was a combination of many efforts. The hardest work done by far, other than Andrew and Jan actually doing the route, was undoubtedly done by Rich Grigsby. He rigged up a giant static line all the way down Medlicott (just to the left of the B&Y) and, on the day of the send, jugged the line as Andrew climbed, snapping those amazing photos the entire way. At the end of the day we all joked that he worked twice as hard jugging that line as Andrew appeared to leading the thing! A testament to both Andrew's climbing prowess and Rich's massive effort for sure. The photos he took are INCREDIBLE and add so much to the film. Thanks Rich!
Also, my buddy Matt, who's co-producing the Stoney Point doc with me, absolutely killed it behind the camera. Most of the best shots found in this piece were by him. His skill definitely pushed this project to another level.
Edit: Jghedge - I worked with the RED once, I just offloaded the cards, andI was blown away by the camera! I can only imagine what it would be like to shoot climbing with one ( Chuck Fryberger does it). But you're right, these new HDSLR's are freakin bananas. For this vid Matt shot with a Canon 5D, I shot with a Canon T2i and we used a Canon XLH1 for the interviews and a few of the climbing shots.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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That's a fantastic movie, and some inspirational climbing. Thanks!
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Excellent- great tribute to the first ascentionists, to the climb itself, and to all of those who dare to follow.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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GREAT posts. thanks for sharing this and putting all the effort into such a great project. Can't wait to tell Dave and Johns Dad to watch this. You did the BY proud. Lots of thoughts about John while I watched this.
Peace
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Jim E
climber
away
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Superb!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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It's really good. I think that the "realism" of the event and that of the two climbers with their particular stories and approaches to being filmed is remarkably successful and pleasing to watch.
Thanks!!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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this is GREAT! excellent to start the day with a view of this vid!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Very nice video, Cole. Super well done.
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Spectacular film and climbing :-)
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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For me, climbing is a lot more fun to do than watch. This film was an exception. Perfect length, beautiful camera work, just the right amount of interview time, all in all just about perfect. Congrats to the climbers and film crew.
Best
lars
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Niiiccceee!!!
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Very, very proud. Congrats all the way around,
Wow...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Award winning videography Cole, this should be submitted to Banff film festival.
Killer smooth ascent Andrew, you're ready for Southern Belle
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Proud send, guys!!!!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Wow. Fantastic!
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HighTraverse
Social climber
Bay Area
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Spectacular from start to finish
for planning, training, execution and wrapup.
the climbers, photogs and producers.
One of those mystical routes that so few of us will ever get onto. That stone and those moves are incomparable.
Well done. Inspirational for those of us on the far side of 45.
I've gotta be sure I always climb in a new button down shirt to make my best effort. ;-)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nice job Andrew. Always cool to see people making dreams come true.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland
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Sweet movie, well done.
Nice to see "mortal" climbers reaching their goals.
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pc
climber
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Excellent! All the way around and to all parties involved.
Cheers,
pc
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Wow! Very nice, congratulations all around.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I love the transitions into still photos, really puts you in the moment. I've never seen anything quite like that before.
It's interesting how Andrew is so moved by the experience that he cannot imagine his next challenge. Somehow I don't think it will be too long before he gets his sights set on a few things out there...
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Cole...you see this response. This kind of thing is your life's calling. Great job!
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Thanks,
Very good work! You should feel proud of the film.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Very Nice film! I love it! Great film work and... Congrats to Andrew and Jan!
AFS
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Great job - both by the film makers and the climbers! Congrats to all.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Love that route. Proud all the way around. Great work!
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Dog Bones
Trad climber
Utah
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Great Video......Great send!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Great Stuff.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Oh Hell Yea! Great job everyone!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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That's what I'm talkin' about!!!!!!!
This is how it's done people . . .
John left us some true gifts. I hope as many climbers as possible watch this video. It reinforces the true value of a ground-up climbing ethic.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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great film, great climb, and apparently great people.
question: how often is BY done these days? Once a week, once a year, once a decade? I've got no clue.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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That's a cool little movie, man. Props on gettin' the B-Y.
Serious bidness.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
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great film, great climb, and apparently great people.
question: how often is BY done these days? Once a week, once a year, once a decade? I've got no clue.
You know I wondered the same thing. I asked Jan and, though he didn't really know, he guessed between 10 and 20 times a year. I think that might be close, maybe less. Anyone else have an idea?
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Bump for a fantastic video
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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That was cool, nice work!
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Great effort all around. Love the story and how it was told in/by the film.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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The build up of tension was f'ing masterful - this was great not only as a climbing vid but really telling a narrative. The skills on display in the making/editing of this vid it seems to me could very easily tell any kind of good story in video. Thanks so much for sharing.
Also, the still shot of the leader putting his hand to his brow to block the sun is a 10/10. That image hangs in my mind sharpest from all of that eye candy.
Send that climber to the back of Half Dome next summer, and make sure the film crew signs on too!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Cole, thanks for all the hard work you did putting this together. You make Drew an me look good (well, except for the wrinkles). Now, when do I get my copy on my HD I gave you?
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AlexReinhard
climber
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Great job! Made me nervous just watching.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Wow! Just wow! As others have said, that was a tremendous send and Cole produced a great telling of the tale. Andrew and Jan deserve both kudos, laurels and olive branches...
No asterisk on that ascent, fer sure! <g>
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Nov 10, 2010 - 02:56am PT
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Great film, to all involved. Thanks for that!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 10, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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After watching that, I want a margarita!
Superb.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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Thanks again guys for all the great comments! This has been a really rewarding project to work on and I couldn't hope for a better response. I know Andrew has a few things planned for the future, onsight attempt of the Pirate at Suicide I believe, among other things, and I look forward to documenting those as well.
Cole, thanks for all the hard work you did putting this together. You make Drew an me look good (well, except for the wrinkles). Now, when do I get my copy on my HD I gave you?
I'm looking at your hard drive right now :) I'll bring it next time I go to Stoney and give it to Guy if I don't see you.
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charlie.elverson
Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
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Nov 10, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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sweet thread bump
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Nov 10, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Nice work, Nice Video,Good style , Great climb on bad ass stone!
Next stop, Astroman. It just makes sense.
How bout it?
Dogtown.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 10, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
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Just finally saw this. Really, really nice.
Thanks,
Zander
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 10, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
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Dogtown, Astroman is a much less serious undertaking albeit a totally different kind of route. If you get as runout on Astroman as you must on B&Y it is by choice.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Nov 10, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
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I know man. But it's longer and has some pretty tricky pitches. And if the boys have not done it? Well then it would be another classic Bachar route that should be on the list to get out of the way. I myself think it one the best free routes in the valley. And if they had not did it, Well they need to get on that sh#t.
Dog.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 10, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
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Dog - You're absolutely correct. Doing Astroman was a highlight for me, but I have not done B&Y which may be why I said what I said.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Nov 11, 2010 - 12:08am PT
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One other climb that comes to mind is Darrell Hansels ISHI at Suicide. A bit harder and shorter but just as steep, A classic Suicide test piece!
Dog.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Nov 11, 2010 - 01:27am PT
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Congratulations Andrew & Jan! Great job.
Cole that was just so cool. Thank you for bringing me/us into this cool thing. Seeing an idea, a climbing goal take on a life of it's own. Hearing about the momentum building up. The word of mouth. All the training. All the traversing. The planning, organizing, etc. You can see the pressure building. All the family and friends were even there. Then the awesome climbing. Great stuff!
Again great climbing Andrew and Jan.
Wes
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Nov 11, 2010 - 02:02am PT
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Wow. Great film of some great climbing.
I happened to be there that day and got to watch the show.
Congratulations all.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 11, 2010 - 06:08am PT
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Really cool!!
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Brian
climber
California
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Nov 11, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Cole,
Great film! I'd also be pretty interested in viewing some non-time-lapsed footage (that is, real time footage where it is sped up in the film). It's a pretty thought provoking route, and it would be interesting to see someone pick his way up it.
Brian
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 11, 2010 - 11:25am PT
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Dog, I have tried Ishi back in the late 80s. There is one move on the first pitch getting to the flake, that at 5' 3 1/2" I can not reach. The second pitch, which was originally done by Jim Wilson as Quiet Desperation is also very sweet but desperate. It is an entirely different kind of climbing though.
Jan
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Bad Climber
climber
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Nov 11, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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Can't praise this enough.
Superb!
BAd
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 11, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Brian wrote: and it would be interesting to see someone pick his way up it.
it was an absolute treat to see and hear the crowd applaud every time rock bro got to a belay station.
cole your video i've watched it 15 times already. goood job! c-ya at the point.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 11, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Stellar!
Superb!
Both the climbing effort and the film.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Nov 11, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
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It's probably already been said, but the film is interesting and unexpected in that it doesn't include the typical close up climbing action with the requisite thrutching, dynos, grunting, falling, etc. It's partly the nature of the climb, I reckon, but by extension the filmmaking successfully focuses on more of the mental control and challenge of doing a climb like this, IMHO.
Nice.
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Johno
Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
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Nov 13, 2010 - 05:08am PT
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Cool video bump!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Nov 13, 2010 - 11:27am PT
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watched it again with a better connection! such a nice film and two dow to earth guys!
congrats to you both, JB would/is proud!
that film brings back the memories, solid but scared leading the first.
Terrified when Ed fell onto me on the second.
psyched when he shook it off and went back up there on the 2nd.
scared shitless at the belay at the start of the 3rd and mortified when a foot hold broke and i managed to hang on..
elation upon reaching the summit, and then realizing my should was pretty jacked..
1984....
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Nov 13, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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What a fun video. Jan and Andrew are a great team. Sometimes the rope serves as a connection between people, not just a link in the safety chain. Good on you.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 13, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
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Wow, total respect for you guys!
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hatestocarry
climber
gunks
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Nov 16, 2010 - 11:01am PT
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THAT should be in one (or more) of next year's climbing film festivals! Hope you seriously pursue that.
I'm in the film biz & your production was "pro" from start to finish.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 16, 2010 - 12:38pm PT
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My, my, my.
What a great film, Cole. And incredible send, Andrew and Jan.
I hope the margarita was good!
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Chris Wegener
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Nov 16, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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It should be mentioned that along with Cole's great work the still photos are from Rich Grigsby, and his usual stellar work.
Way to go guys!
Chris
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Nov 16, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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W O W !!! awesome, on so many levels
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highlux
Trad climber
New Zealand
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Nov 16, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
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Nice work - to the climbers and the film maker!
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Nov 17, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
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i wish i was 59 again
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Nov 17, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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Fantastic.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 29, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
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bump - for a good thread & great film.
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jackkelly
Trad climber
Milford, CT
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Nov 30, 2010 - 10:33am PT
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Cole, Just watched your video.... amazing! thank you
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Nov 30, 2010 - 10:46am PT
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really, really cool!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Nov 30, 2010 - 11:16am PT
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Great work guys! (Both climbers and film creator).
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 30, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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I'd like to thank everyone for the praise. Andrew was amazing up there. So cool and composed and had so much in reserve that it never felt like he was sketchy. Made belaying him so much easier than I was expecting. Cole did a great job with the film and I don't think we will ever be able to thank Grigsby for the amount of effort he put into filming our ascent. I'm glad everyone has enjoyed the film and let it stand as a testament that if you want something and are willing to work hard for it, almost anything is atainable. Even at 59!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 30, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Several as a matter of fact. We trained hard all week leading up to that day and drinking was off the list. I am pretty sure I have never climbed as many hard routes in one week as we did that week.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Nov 30, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
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Awesome footage!!!
Proud moments!!!
Cheers to the team, and the documentarian
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 30, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
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Just for sh*ts and grins, here's the G_nome on the other end of the rope, of course he might have only been 58 then.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 30, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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fantastic!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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pump - thats what i get when i watch this.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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what steve & boulderkitty would have looked like in 1967.Andrew & jan thought the eyes of 1967
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Fletcher
Trad climber
from the place of breath
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Dec 11, 2010 - 06:43am PT
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Bumpity-Doo! Finally got to watch the whole story through... been saving this one for a month or more. All-around-can't-go-wrong with this one. Good film, good guys, good climb, good spirit.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this!
Eric
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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bump
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 26, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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I've been waiting to BUMP this thread and give Cole the credit he deserves for such a great film, not to mention Andrew and all the hard work and training that went into it. Pleasure to know everyone involved. Awsome job guys-
Matt
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 27, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
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BUMP
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 26, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
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BUMP - do your self a favor and watch or rewatch this great documentary. Oh..and if you ever run into Jan be sure the first thing you say is "Aren't you that guy from the internet? Jandrew?"
http://vimeo.com/14878084
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 26, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
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Smoooooth. Damn!
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go-B
climber
Sozo
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May 26, 2011 - 08:40pm PT
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Props, nicely done and way to send!
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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May 26, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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really fukn cool....alls i know is that video scared the shite outa me, scary f'n route !!!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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May 26, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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Sent the link to John's Dad tonight, I'm sure he'll enjoy it!
Peace
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 27, 2011 - 03:49am PT
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Good job on the bump! This one is certainly worth another watch.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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thought this should be bumped in anticipation of cole' s stoney point documentary coming out soon.
http://stoneypointdocumentary.com
Thanks for all the great work cole!
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thetennisguy
Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
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So Nice!! Great Job! Thanks for sharing your great climb and for making the video! Inspirational!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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bump
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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bump because it should be BUMPED...
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