Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2018 - 06:05am PT
|
Short hike with wifey and my parental units yesterday. I checked the start of a few climbs around here and did some bouldering traverses about 10 feet above the ground.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2018 - 05:04pm PT
|
Looks pretty Awesom Jason!
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2018 - 06:25pm PT
|
Bucket list climb! fairly full conditions on sat. Who's Who In Outer Space WI5 140m we did it In 3 and I only led the middle pitch but now I know If I get another shot at it that I can take 1st and 3rd. It has a very thin and fickel start..
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2018 - 07:27pm PT
|
Joshua Tree mini classics - Monzonite Madness :-)
|
|
WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2018 - 01:13am PT
|
Nice looking line there Nick!
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2018 - 03:21am PT
|
P1 was thin airated and delamed. It took 10cms but for the first 80ft they are in airated delaminated ice..... Black rock, Western exposure so one sunny day in the upper 20s and P1 usually is gone.....
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2018 - 11:55am PT
|
Nice job Nick. Would love to get out there some day.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
|
Would love to give you the tour. The Lake is most reliable jan and feb. though sometimes great in dec and march? Sometimes toast the last week of feb??? Western exposure, Steep, Black Rock = it deteriorates pretty darn fast on a sunny warm day. Not the kind of place where its ok to climb when its above 30f in the sun. yes there are a few that can be safe in those temps but most of the really interesting stuff wants some cold temps or cloudy skys. Tons of big steep climbs with short approaches.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2018 - 05:15pm PT
|
Did Cozy Hang on the Dome. Had to be close to 70. Jack lead the middle pitch and this one gets classic status because it is hard for 7+. Seems like most routes put in before the 1960's are a little sandbagged for today's grades. What do you guys think?
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2018 - 08:12pm PT
|
nice, mike!
a solid 60 up in ssv today, did some nice flake and a bit of fingers at countrywestern
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2018 - 08:58pm PT
|
New route 'Titus detritus beside us,' (?) pitch one 5.11. Boulder move to chicken wing to dble wing to classic corner handcrack to hands tp flaring chimney groove to hands / fists in small roof 100'+.
Pitch 2 5.10x. Move belay up through very loose chimney floored with lots of loose rocks of all sizes, to a sheltered spot in a side chimney. Climb straight up wide chimney, or farther north up squeeze chimney ( I had to take off my helmet) no pro either way till almost the top. Cam belay ( 1 gold, 1 blue and one old four Camelot.)
Descend route to the north (toward highway 211) reached by some scary steps over gaping maws. two raps with a single 70 meter rope..
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2018 - 09:45pm PT
|
dang jay that is a double chicken hooter you folk gone smoked!
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2018 - 10:14pm PT
|
^^WTF
|
|
perswig
climber
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2018 - 03:22am PT
|
Well done on the Who's tick, Trad!
Dale
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2018 - 02:51pm PT
|
good stuff everyone!
We went looking for Stormy Monday. A long committing sandbag with an elusive start. They call it a 4+ but I have heard from pretty reliable sorces that it is solid 5. We easily found the 5+ start to China Shop in 6 condition . that was not on the table so we wandered around a bit trying to find the mixed start. Found one of them but it looked verry involved and sketchy. wandered a bit more and found the seldome done Shaker Heights. Seldome done because it is pretty much the longest approach in the park.. The ice was Bullet Proof and brittle in a stiff cold wind. Isa led a pitch to get us to the business. the 3rd pitch was steep and technical with a bit of funky slightly mixed terrain to get established on the pillar. the P 3 pillar was nice steep brittle techy stuff with tons of exposure. Isa styled it The Lake never seems to disappoint :)
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2018 - 05:00am PT
|
Yikes!
|
|
Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2018 - 04:38pm PT
|
Casual over 50 club climbing day at the Oak Creek Overlook ........didn't top 5.8, but 5.7-5.8's there are definitely solid for the grade. You can make 'em 5.7 or 5.8 but then again .........I have so much fun at this place . 10 minutes from the house, pretty much year round climbing: when the sun lowers in the winter you get more of it longer there, when it goes to apex in the summer you get less: BUENO! Hidden classics abound. Offwidth to fingers. Try a 10+ there for grading ;)
Have fun out there !
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
|
Did a cool traverse too. Would have done more but got busted by the fuzz.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2018 - 08:38am PT
|
Ha nut!
Happy late birthday Penns, I miss the overlook!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!