What did you climb today!

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locker

Social climber
"Sh#t shack across from the city dump"
May 1, 2014 - 07:57pm PT

Went to climb an area with apparently too many memories today...


SHUT DOWN!!!...







"Dude's the Mack!!!"...
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
May 1, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
Credit: Willoughby
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 2, 2014 - 12:44am PT
Yow, TBC, that route a few back looks cool!
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
May 2, 2014 - 02:23am PT
Both cracks at the local gym Rocksport in Reno.
If I hit the right leaning, slightly overhung crack first thing, I find I can make the top. If I wait 'til later, I get pumped out up just past where the angle changes and it widens.
The other straight crack is just for running laps now, though initially it was hard. I guess we transpose with time.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 2, 2014 - 02:50am PT
Nice, Johnny. Up and down laps on the easy crack and purely up laps on the leanie meanie. I've seen a guy up and down lap it, I guess that should be my next goal. Those cracks are actually good for the crack endurance.

One thing I've been doing on the easy crack is jamming at regular intervals rather than going for pods so I work the in between sizes.
mcd

Trad climber
May 2, 2014 - 09:40am PT
Erin, adventure climbing
Erin, adventure climbing
Credit: mcd
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
May 2, 2014 - 11:37am PT
Yeah, that easy crack is good fun. I need to work on switching stance, leading left hand up hnstead of right. Problem is never enough time. Just a fluke i happened to be there. 1st time in months.
Surprised gyms dont have more cracks. Try Granite Arch in Sacto if you ever down there, they have quite a few cracks to choose from.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 3, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
Climbed at our very quiet personal crag today. The 3rd climb of the day was a bit exciteing!
A bolt saved my life today. An obscure route that I put up 3 years ago. This was maybe the 4th or 5th ascent? I know I never climbed it last year and not sure if anyone else did? 5.8 and a mix of gear and bolts. It traverses some, goes arround a few corners and then up an arette. I was out of sight from my belayer had just made a clip but was off to the side of the bolt with aparently some decent slack in the system due to rope drag and the natural slack that occurs on traverses. A hold that looked and felt really good broke while I was laying back on it. A solid 20 footer over a roof that almost smacked me in the face. I let out a pretty good scream. It was scary because the fall was so sudden, rock was flying through the air and I went much farther than I expected. We renamed the climb from, You can't Always get What You Want to, Screamer. there is no natural gear anywhere near there that would keep you off the deck.

This was a good reminder that on long wandering pitches with a lot of rope out, a fall close to your gear will usually be much,much longer than you might think. A fall from above your gear may end up being absolutly huge!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 4, 2014 - 12:18am PT

mdc; cool photo.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
May 4, 2014 - 12:39am PT
Took the Soloist on a trip up Ginger Bread at Phantom Spires today:
Credit: Alpamayo
Credit: Alpamayo
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 4, 2014 - 12:43am PT
Is that the labyrinth?
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 4, 2014 - 10:44am PT

^
Good one Hankster.

We had Planet of the 8s, Leavenworth WA all to ourselves but for White-Thoated Swifts and Prairie Falcons. Sorry about the slightly blurry one handed photo.
Mark Iffrig
Mark Iffrig
Credit: Darwin
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
May 4, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
Color Me Gone at Dinosaur Rock yesterday.

I led it, my sometimes-partner up from sacto followed and cleaned 2/3, but 5.9 is just plain above him. Doubt he will ever lead, but doesn't mind belaying for me. Still, somewhere about halfway I got spooked, pumped, and hung off a cam for a while til the elvis leg subsided, then went on up. Don't have any pics of me on lead, but here he is effectively on TR cleaning.
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This after a trip down to Desert Creek, where the abundant volcanic choss had every appearance of being entirely portable, but the fishing was fun.
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i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
May 5, 2014 - 03:06am PT
nice johnny. got to get yer books back to you. i'm down to make a climb of it.
last climb was saturday at bayview cliffs
halfway up the jester &#40;i think&#41;
halfway up the jester (i think)
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

the crux seems a bit harder than 5.6
Ashley on the jester
Ashley on the jester
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
May 11, 2014 - 02:25am PT
Looks like your doing good gumby.
Today I made it out with Rick and Bob. Dudes, that was a nice day! The dome of rock was obliging to us, the Nevada weather living up to its rep of changing every five minutes. Left the truck at 48deg, under partly grey skies and some breezy conditions. Got our climb on in two pitches, during which the wind tried to blow us off the rock, alternating between sun, clouds, wind, and the threat of rain and snow, which we could see in the valley and at the top of the canyon. HUGE dust storms to our east on the way home, but man, it was worth it.
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phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
May 11, 2014 - 12:13pm PT
Dwain, Daphne and Phyl
Dwain, Daphne and Phyl
Credit: phylp

Had a nice day out yesterday with good people Dwain, Daphne and Michael in Apple Valley, but the wind was strong and gusty. We got worn out from the wind rather than the climbing.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
May 11, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
Not sure this is really what this thread is about, but as a part of my ongoing climbing education (I'm 57 and need to keep my mind active), my "mentor" started teaching me aid techniques. We started at "the Pirate" (C2) on Suicide on Saturday. I got to jumar up and clean/inspect all the placements and figure out how to traverse to the anchor while still removing all the pro. Fun times!

Credit: skcreidc

Credit: skcreidc

Since its rated 5.12c/d free, I wasn't sure I was expecting to see as much chalk in the little pods as I did. And all the way up! More than one person has been free climbing up that thing this season already. Impressive as some of the pods would not even fit my pinkey finger in them.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 11, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
did my solo circuit @ the leap on the way to pick Isa up and go to a graduation.... got in troubble for being late....
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
May 11, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
and figure out how to traverse to the anchor while still removing all the pro. Fun times!

led that in my first season of climbing, 1970.

After nailing my way up with interesting tied off stacks (due to our paltry rack) I looped a sling over a chicken head where the crack ended and clipped in the etrier and stood up.

Then at eye level the knot on the sling unraveled.

The chicken head was immediately mantled and the free climbing commenced.

I've never used a tied sling that wasn't bounce tested since.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 11, 2014 - 09:29pm PT
Oh Phyl, now there's a Team!

Too wet to climb here in the desert (Colorado Plateau) today..
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