drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
|
Thimble Peak adventure.
Winter storm rolled out last night leaving perfect spring weather.
It's way back in there
White tower is the Kor Wall.
What I neglected to say, was that we took the tram to eliminate the four mile deathmarch!
These snowbirds were checking college basketball scores!
|
|
WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
|
Went for a cruise up Solar Flare with Shane and then went bouldering at Kraft after. A bit breezy higher up today, but a beautiful day in the sun at Red Rock.
|
|
Jebus H Bomz
climber
Peavine Basecamp
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
|
A bit breezy higher up today, but a beautiful day in the sun at Red Rock.
Let's hope it stays that way, buddy!
I climbed plastic today :(. Obligations suck!
|
|
Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
|
That amphitheater at Frankenstein doesn't respond well to high temps and too much sunlight. Some folks just don't realize the gravity of the situation.
All I got in was some mileage in my new snowshoes up RMNP-way. Got higher than most though.
Hope to get back up there and smite that waterfall.
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
|
Well, no rock unfortunately.
But a little training on the crack machine nonetheless...
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
|
I reccon my partners boots, tools and crampons were older than anyone in that party.....
Young, strong and stupid......
|
|
Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
|
You don't want to spend much time under those sorts, eh, Nick.
Knott-eye,
Keith
|
|
WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
|
Let's hope it stays that way, buddy!
I climbed plastic today :(. Obligations suck!
:(
Lets hope the wind goes down...by a lot. I can't keep staring at Mt Wilson from my home office and not climb the MF'er. Or at least do Inti Watana.
Photo from today: Shane following the 10c crux pitch....really a boulder problem. Steep jug yarding with cool moves and great rock quality on Solar Flare.
|
|
jopay
climber
so.il
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2013 - 07:26am PT
|
This should probably be over on the "60" thread, but I turned 67 Sunday and Saturday I climbed a 5.10c, 5.10a, 5.8, and 5.12a, sent everything but the 5.12, I had some hangs but clipped the anchor.
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
|
Had a fun day out clipping bolts in Boulder Canyon.
5.9
5.11a
5.11a
5.11c
5.9
5.11b
Funny how you can never remember the names of sport climbs....
but it IS BoCan...so we can take these grades with a grain of salt...
|
|
bjj
climber
beyond the sun
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
|
No pics, but today we did Rock Warrior in Black Velvet. Decided on this as plan b after seeing the queue at prince of darkness and wild turkeys. First 2 pitches were fun (pitch 1 was a bit spicy) but after that it got pretty repetitive and monotonous. The saving grace was the route / gear finding puzzle.
Don't know if I'll ever bother with Prince, since it looks like the exact same thing, except mind numbingly well protected.
Might go back tomorrow for Fiddler on the roof.
|
|
The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
|
Fiddler looks awesome. Just don't fall on the roof. Sour Mash, and Yellow Brick Road are good too. All I did today was a few pitches on Wall ST. Did 30 second over Potash in 63 seconds. Not my best but I'm out of shape.
|
|
bjj
climber
beyond the sun
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 09:02am PT
|
My finger got kind of torn up and bloody yesterday, and some stuff to do came up, so we'll save fiddler for next week. Ya, I've read and heard some interesting stories about people who have pitched off traversing above the roof. I need to get an ascender(s) of some sort to bring along just in case. I don't expect either me or my partner to go for the ride, but anything is possible.
The whole thing just looks so good, plus of course the cache of doing a route like that (not that I care about such things :) ) Multiple people coming off POD interviewed us about the Rock Warrior experience. It was a little weird.
According to Handren's book, Rock Warrior sees less ascents in a year than POD does in a busy day. That's amazing to me. Must mean Fidder gets the same amount in a decade?
|
|
WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 09:23am PT
|
bjj, how was Rock Warrior? I'm a ways out from being that confident on that kind of terrain but always wondered about it.
I could understand the interrogation if you just came off of Sandstone Samurai, though....
Fiddler looks unreal good.
|
|
bjj
climber
beyond the sun
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 10:36am PT
|
It was mostly good. First pitch is pretty spicy as you move up to (insecure, sandy slab) and then past the bolt. It was made even more spicy by my partner's route finding. He went straight up and then traversed directly right to the belay, whereas an up and right(ish) direction would have made the climbing a bit easier. There was potential for a pretty long whip onto the starting slab. I was prepared to jump off the first belay ledge if need be.
Upon further investigation, it looks like the path we took for pitch 1 might have been kind of a combination of RW and Sandstone samurai? Not really sure, except that the crux as we did it on that pitch felt noticeably harder than that of pitch #2 (on which I almost didn't really even notice a crux). Pitch one as we did it had a few moves that could be 10c/d (when compared with pitch 2), especially if you were on lead doing them with a possible leg breaking fall to the starting slab as your reward for botching it.
The first gear my partner placed after the bolt (after pulling the crux) was not great. #4 stopper in a bit of a flare. Then more runout until finally a couple of good placements. After that, it's easier going until the anchor.
I led pitch #2 (also 10b) and it wasn't nearly as scary nor seemed as hard, even though there were 40 foot sections unprotected. A fall anywhere on it, though long, would be clean. The higher you go, the better the gear.
The rest of the pitches are 5.9/9+, with long runouts and good gear when you need it. Some RP's could be useful to take some of the spice out of it, but we didn't bring any. Honestly, if you're able to stand around fiddling in gear like that, you're able to just keep on going.
The only thing that really made it a little hair raising is that many of the holds look like they could break. I often opted for smaller, more solid looking edges over larger features that were lined with hair line fractures.
Honestly though, after pitch #2, the climbing itself was monotonous and only having to figure out the puzzle of route finding (mostly having to think about if a hold might break or not) made it interesting. All that standing around en route could add up to fatigued feet and calves. An arm pump should never be a problem.
I have always really enjoyed cerebral footwork face routes, like at Tuolumne and Jtree. So, this route is in the vein of things like that. But,in the case of RW, there were too many holds. Removing the possibility of breaking something from the equation leaves you with dozens of possible ways to advance each time. If that makes sense...
|
|
WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 10:55am PT
|
Totally makes sense. Sounds very fun, but definitely above my pay grade for the time being. Is the climbing really as similar to PoD in terms of the actual movement as people suggest? I haven't climbed either yet but am considering hopping on PoD fairly soon.
Thanks! Also if you want to crag after work one of these days, you got a neighbor who is always on the prowl for post-work craggin'
W
|
|
bjj
climber
beyond the sun
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
|
I'd say climb prince of darkness first. If it feels casual, then you're probably good to go on RW. Just make sure you do pitch #1 with proper route finding, and not like we did it. You could even climb pitch 1 of POD and then traverse left to the anchors atop P1 of RW and continue that route from there, thus avoiding the most puckering and dangerous part. You could even each lower to the start and TR P1 before continuing on.
And, I'd be plenty interested in getting out sometime. You live over here by RR now? PM me and we can talk more about it.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!