Joe Puryear killed in Tibet

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AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
Just received this from Mike Gauthier:
I received one of those dreaded phone calls early this morning with the news that my good friend Joe Puryear died while ascending Labuche Kang (7,367 meters, 24,170 feet) in a remote region of Tibet.

Joe was a former climbing ranger on Mount Rainier and one of America’s elite alpinists. He joined the staff at Camp Schurman in 1996 with Mark Westman and Lara Bitenieks. They represented a new cadre of skilled climbers who together helped changed the way our climbing rangers did business and served the public for the National Park Service. For two years, Joe led the climbing rangers on the east side of Mount Rainier and participated in many difficult rescues. He was greatly respected for his climbing skills and ability manage complex situations both on the mountain and in the front country. Joe’s talents led him to pursue a career in alpinism and along the way he authored books on climbing in the Alaska Range and in the desert SW of America. Most recently, he and David Gottlieb received prestigious climbing grants (Mugs Stump, Gore, and Lyman Spitzer) in order to ascend unclimbed peaks and frozen waterfalls in Nepal and Tibet.

I don’t have a lot of information at this time, but the word is that Joe fell through a cornice. He was with David at the time, but David did not witness the event. He ascended the top the ridgeline after putting on his crampons only to find Joe's tracks leading to a broken ledge. Fearing the worst, he descended 1,500 feet to find Joe, who did not survive the fall, and shortly there after retrieved the sat phone enabling him to make a call to the US. David was alone at the time, but does have the help of one Sherpa at base camp. They are in a very remote region without rescue services and it’s unclear what his next steps will be. For now, I am thinking about David as he descends the mountain back to base camp.

Once again, the Mount Rainier climbing community has been rocked with the lose of a wonderful friend and person. Joe was good friend with Lara, who died while climbing on Mount Wake in 2007 in the Alaska Range, and also with Charlie Borgh, who was swept to his death in an avalanche on Mount Delta Form in Alberta, Canada 2008.

I’ll send out more information about the accident, David’s descent, and a memorial when possible. I have attached a picture of Joe as I remember him best, in the mountains and on top of his game.

Information about the expedition can be found at: http://climbtibet.blogspot.com/
Credit: AKTrad
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
Oh man
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
RIP Joe, and condolences to those who knew you.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
Another tragic loss for the tribe. My deepest condolences to his family & friends.
Conrad

climber
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
Sincere condolences to the family of Joe.

Joe was a part of the Topo family. His Alaska guide will continue to inspire and encourage safe climbing in the Alaska Range for years to come.




"See you in the mountains!"
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:41pm PT
his previous handy work that I remembered seeing briefly...

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/americans_bag_huge_unclimbed_peak_in_nepal/

crackers

climber
istanbul/new york city
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
abso fcking lutely bawling.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
RIP Joe.

We met Joe out in the Fisher's a couple years back.

GREAT GUY...GREAT CLIMBER...I remember the BIG smile he had on his face as he tore his way through the desert!!!

All the best to his friends and family.


Jeremy Aslaksen
locker

Social climber
Oct 27, 2010 - 01:55pm PT


Sincerest condolences to the family and friends of Joe Puryear...

AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
There is a mistake in the report that Mike corrected. It was in a remote region WITHOUT rescue services.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
This SUCKS!

Joe was a great guy and will be dearly missed.

RIP Joe and condolences to his family.

Paul
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
Oh man. How sad. I really liked his article on Nepal. He seemed like the real deal. An advocate for pure adventure. My condolences to his family and all of you who knew him.
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
I found this on the web somewhere....It looks like Joe and Davids Blog leading up to and during the climb. Kinda hard to read knowing he's gone.
http://climbtibet.blogspot.com/
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
very sad. Sometimes I hate opening up ST.
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
My condolences.
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
My heart goes out to everyone who knew him. I'm so sorry.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
Condolences to Joe's family and friends.

Too young, too soon.
Alpine Raven

climber
Eugene, Oregon
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
Very sad to read this. Always enjoyed reading his climbing stories in Alpinist about getting up the lesser known peaks but still having the full adventure. Big loss. Condolences to family and friends.

David
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
Really sad to hear this, only met him once at the trade show, when he sought me out for some info for his Alaska book, but he seemed like an awesome guy, so enthused for the mountains. I loved his incredible Desert Towers trip report. http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=584543&msg=584543#msg584543 ...

A huge loss, condolences to his many loved ones.

Peter
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
Another tragic loss. My heart goes out to friends and family.
RIP.
Paulina

Trad climber
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
Deep condolences to Joe's family and friends.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
AKTrad, so sorry to read this.

How do we meet our own end? We all know it's coming, but it's still really hard when it happens to someone close. It's easy to say that he died doing what he loved, and I might even wish it for myself. But it's safe to say that Joe would have wanted to come home from this trip, this time at least.

All of us will be thinking of you and Joe's other friends and family.

Rest In Peace


Credit: survival
Barbarian

Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
Oct 27, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
This is a huge loss for our community, but an even greater loss for those closest to him. Condolences to his family and friends. My thoughts and prayers are with you in this difficult time.

Scott
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
I am so sorry to hear this;....Joe's post on the SW desert on supertopo is the best post I have ever seen on supertopo....and his motivation and talent have inspired me to no end. I am so sorry to hear this....rest in peace, Joe.
dirt claud

Sport climber
san diego,ca
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
Sorry to hear about this, condolences to family and friends.
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
No freakin way is all I can think of...

Sometimes I feel as though we are soldiers doing battle against an imaginary being and its picking us off one by one...
Gene

Social climber
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
Best wishes to Joe's friends, family and partners. So sad.

g
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
Thats rough. Seemed like a great guy. I loved his desert trip report. My condolences to friends and family.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
This is very sad news, indeed. My condolences to Joe's family and friends.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
A wonderful man to bridge the world of govt. employees and climbers.
Crodog

Social climber
Oct 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
FULL CLIMBING RESUME

North America:

Alaska Range:
Mt. Barrill (7,650 ft.),
Cobra Pillar (6/2004), VI 5.11a A2, 27 pitches; speed ascent: 15h 10m
Japanese Couloir (4/2004), III 50o, 900 m
Mt. Brooks (11,940 ft.), North Ridge (7/2008), III 50o 2000m
Mt. Crosson (12,800 ft.), Southeast Ridge (6/2000), III 50o, 1800 m
Mt. Dan Beard (10,260 ft.), Southwest Route (4/2004), V 5.5 60o, 1200 m
Denali (20,320 ft.),
Cassin Ridge (6/2000), Alaska Grade 5 5.8 65o, 50 pitches, 2700 m
South Buttress – West Buttress Traverse (4/1996), Alaska Grade 3 55o, 4400 m
Mt. Dickey (9,545 ft.), Southwest Ridge (4/2000), III 45o, 1500 m
Eye Tooth (9,000 ft.), West Pillar (6/2004), V 5.10c, 27 pitches
Pt. Farine (9,300 ft.), East Ridge, solo (6/2001), II 45o, 500 m
Mt. Frances (10,450 ft.),
East Ridge (5/2001), III 45o, 900m; 2 ascents
Southwest Ridge (5/2004), IV 5.8 50o, 1100m
Mt. Foraker (17,400 ft.),
Infinite Spur (6/2001), Alaska Grade 6 5.9 M5, 65 pitches, 2700 m
Sultana Ridge (6/2000), Alaska Grade 3 45o, 3100 m
Mt. Hunter (14,570 ft.), West Ridge (4/1999), Alaska Grade 4 5.7 55o, 2400 m
Mt. Huntington (12,240 ft.), Harvard Route w/ first ascent variation (5/2000), VI 5.9 A2 80o, 1200m
Hut Tower (6000 ft.), Southwest Face (6/2002), IV 5.10c, 10 pitches; 2 ascents
Kahiltna Dome (12,525 ft.), Northeast Ridge (6/2001), II 40o, 600 m
Kahiltna Queen (12,380 ft.), West Face (5/2000), IV 65o, 18 pitches, 900 m; 2 ascents
Kichatna Spire (9,985 ft.), The Black Crystal Arête, first ascent (7/2005), VI 5.10 A2, 900 m
Middle Troll (6,900 ft.), West Face (7/2004), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Mini-Moonflower (10,600 ft.), North Couloir (5/2004), IV 85o, 14 pitches
Mooses Tooth (10,300 ft.),
Ham and Eggs (4/2003), V 5.9 AI4, 20 pitches
Shaken Not Stirred (5/2003), V AI5, 18 pitches
The Radio Control Tower (8,670ft.), South Face (5/2001), II, 5.0 55o, 300 m
Mt. Silverthrone (13,220 ft.), West Face, first ascent (4/1997), III 65o, 1700 m
South Troll (6,900 ft.), South Ridge (7/2004), III 5.8, 8 pitches
The Stump (6,600 ft.), South Face, Goldfinger, first ascent (6/2004), IV 5.11a, 12 pitches
The Throne (7,390 ft.), South Face (7/2004), III 5.8, 10 pitches
Pt. 8,240 ft., East Ridge, solo (6/2001), II 45o, 600 m
Peak 11,300 ft., Southwest Ridge (4/2004), V 5.8 60o, 1200 m
Peak 12,200 ft.,
East Ridge – Southwest Face traverse (4/1995), IV 50o, 1500 m
South Face (5/2004), III 5.5 50o, 1200 m

Bugaboos:
Bugaboo Spire (10,250 ft.), Northeast Ridge (8/2003), IV 5.7, 10 pitches
Pigeon Spire (10,215 ft.),
East Face (8/2003), V 5.10, 18 pitches
West Ridge, solo (8/2003), II 5.4
Snowpatch Spire (10,050 ft.),
Furry Pink (8/2003), IV 5.10c, 8 pitches
Krause-McCarthy (8/2003), IV 5.8, 6 pitches
Southeast Ridge (8/2003), IV 5.6, 16 pitches
Southwest Corner Direct (8/2003), III 5.10a, 7 pitches
Wildflowers (8/2003), IV 5.9, 9 pitches
South Howser Spire (10,850 ft.), Becky-Chouinard (8/2003), V 5.9, 18 pitches

Cascade Mountains:
Mt. Adams (12,276 ft.), South Route (8/1998), 5 ascents
Argonaut Peak (8,453 ft.),
Northeast Buttress (6/1998), II 5.8, 8 pitches
West Ridge, solo (9/2002), II 5.5, 5 pitches
Mt. Baker (10,788 ft.), North Ridge (7/1994), III+ 70o, 1000 m
Mt. Baring (6,125 ft.), North Face (7/2007), V 5.10c, 20 pitches
Bear Mountain (7,942 ft.), Direct North Buttress (8/1999), V 5.10c, 25 pitches
Burgundy Spire (8,400 ft.), North Face (6/1996), III 5.8, 6 pitches
Chair Peak (6,238 ft.),
East Face (5/1994), III 5.6, 6 pitches
North Face (2/1994), III 65o, 4 pitches
Northeast Buttress (3/1994), III 65o, 5 pitches
West Face (1/1995), III 60o, 6 pitches
Mt. Challenger (8,236 ft.), Challenger Glacier (8/2005), II 5.7
Chianti Spire (8,400 ft.), East Face (7/1996), III 5.10, 7 pitches
Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200 ft.), West Face (8/1997), IV 5.11 C1, 12 pitches
Colchuck Peak (8,705 ft.),
Colchuck Glacier (7/1997), II class 3 40o
Northeast Buttress (7/1997), IV 5.8, 20 pitches
North Buttress Couloir, solo (4/1994), III 65o, 10 pitches, 2 ascents
Copper Mountain (6,280 ft.), East Face Couloir (2/1994), II 60o, 4 pitches
Crystal Lake Tower (7,800 ft.), Southwest Arête (7/1999), III 5.8, 15 pitches
Cutthroat Peak (8,050 ft.), South Buttress (8/1998), III 5.8, 10 pitches
Double Peak (6,199 ft.), East Face, first ascent (6/1997), III 5.10b, 6 pitches
Dragontail Peak (8,840 ft.),
Backbone Ridge (9/1995), IV 5.9, 18 pitches (2 ascents)
Boving Route (8/1998), IV 5.10c, 14 pitches
Dragonfly (8/2006), IV 5.11, 12 pitches
North Face (7/1999), IV 5.8, 28 pitches
Northeast Arête (6/1998), III 5.8, 10 pitches
Northeast Buttress (6/1998), IV 5.8, 20 pitches
North-northeast Arête (7/1998) III 5.8, 8 pitches
Serpentine Arête (7/1994), IV 5.8, 16 pitches; 3 ascents
Triple Couloir (3/1995), IV 5.8 70o, 20+ pitches
Eagle Peak (5,958 ft.), East Slabs, first ascent (8/2003), III 5.7, 8 pitches
Early Morning Spire (8,200 ft.), Thin Black Line (7/1996), III+ 5.9, 13 pitches
Eldorado Peak (8,868 ft.),
East Ridge (7/2007)
West Arête (7/2009), IV 5.8, 2,800 ft.
Enchantment Peak, Acid Baby (7/2010), III 5.10+, 8 pitches
Mt. Fernow (9.249 ft.), South Route (7/2007)
Forbidden Peak (8,815 ft.),
East Ridge Direct (7/1996), III 5.8, 10 pitches
West Ridge (5/1994), III 5.6, 10 pitches
Mt. Garfield (5,119 ft.), Infinite Bliss (8/2006), IV 5.10c, 23 pitches, 2 ascents
Mt. Goode (9,200 ft.),
Northwest Buttress (5/1995), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Northeast Buttress (7/2009), III 5.5, 2,800 ft.
Goat Wall,
Sisyphus (6/2006), III 5.11a, 10 pitches
Prime Rib (6/2007), III 5.9, 11 pitches
Restless Natives (6/2006), III 5.11b, 11 pitches
Goose Egg Mountain (4,566 ft.),
Bowl Packer, first ascent (11/2002), III 5.11c, 5 pitches
The Commandho Pillar, first ascent (3/2002), III 5.11b, 7 pitches; 3 ascents
Dirty Sanchez, first ascent (3/2002), III 5.9, 8 pitches; 4 ascents
Ignorant Bliss, first ascent (11/2002), III 5.10c, 6 pitches
Ride the Lightning, first ascent (10/2001), first winter ascent (2/2002), III 5.9, 7 pitches; 6 ascents
Shock and Awe, first ascent (4/2003), III 5.10c, 7 pitches
Southeast Arête, first winter ascent (2/2002), III 5.10d, 7 pitches
Spoil Ill, first ascent (7/2010), III 5,10c, 6 pitches
Notable speed ascents: Ride the Lightning in 56 minutes; 1:33 round trip.
Dirty Sanchez in 16 minutes; 31 minutes round trip.
Green Giant Buttress (3,084 ft.),
Dreamer (7/1996), IV 5.9, 10 pitches
Safe Sex (8/2009), IV 5.9, 9 pitches
Mt. Hood (11,235 ft.), South Route (6/1993), II 40o
Mt. Index (5,967 ft.), North Peak to Main Peak Traverse (7/2003), V 5.7, c. 35 pitches
Index Upper Town Wall (2,400 ft.),
Davis–Holland Route (6/1995), III 5.10c, 6 pitches
The Green Dragon, solo (6/1997), IV C2+, 5 pitches; 2 ascents
Town Crier, solo (6/1997), IV 5.8 C2, 7 pitches
Ingalls Peak, North Peak (7,662 ft.), South Face (7/2007), II 5.6, 4 pitches
Inspiration Peak (7,880 ft.), East Ridge (8/2010), IV 5.9, 10 pitches
Johannesburg Mountain (8,200 ft.), North Rib (8/2007), IV 5.6 45o, 4,000 feet
Juno Tower (7,920 ft.), Clean Break (7/1998), IV 5.10b, 10 pitches
Kloochman Rock (4,532 ft.),
North Summit Tower, North Face, first ascent (4/2001), III 5.7, 8 pitches
South Ridge, first ascent (4/2001), II 5.6R, 4 pitches
Tower One, Northeast Arête, first ascent (9/2002), III 5.11a, 6 pitches
Tower One, Northeast Ramps, first ascent (4/2001), II 5.7R, 5 pitches
Tower Two, South Face (10/2000), II 5.6, 3 pitches
Tower Three, North Face, first ascent (4/2001), II 5.9R, 5 pitches
T.A.C., first ascent (4/2001), IV 5.8R, 18 pitches
West Face, first ascent (4/2000), II 5.6R, 4 pitches
West Ramps, solo (10/2001), II 5.5, 4 pitches
Xirtamartlu, first ascent (4/2001), IV 5.9R/X, 26 pitches
Lexington Tower (7,560 ft.), East Face (6/1996), III+ 5.9, 9 pitches
Liberty Bell (7,720 ft.),
Barber Pole Route (6/2007), III 5.8, 9 pitches
Becky Route (6/1994), II 5.6, 4 pitches
Liberty Crack (6/1997), V 5.10 A2, 12 pitches; 2 ascents
Overexposure (6/1994), II 5.8, 4 pitches
Thin Red Line (8/1998), V 5.9 A3, 12 pitches
Little Annapurna (8,440 ft.), South Face (6/1998), II 5.8, 6 pitches
Little Tahoma (11,138 ft.), East Route, solo (6/1997), II 45o
McClellan Peak (8,364 ft.), West Ridge including four of the Chessmen (7/1998), II 5.7, 4 pitches
Minuteman Tower (7,000 ft.) ,East Face (8/1998), III 5.10a, 5 pitches
North Early Winter Spire (7,760 ft.),
Northwest Corner (7/1996), III 5.9, 6 pitches, 2 ascents
West Face (8/1996), III 5.11a, 6 pitches, 2 ascents
Pennant Peak and the Flagpole (8,080 ft.), East Face (7/1999), III 5.6 C2, 5 pitches, 400m
Prusik Peak (8,000 ft.),
South Face (Bergner-Stanley) (1996), III 5.9+, 5 pitches; 2 ascents
South Face (Beckey-Davis) (8/2009), III 5.10a, 5 pitches
West Ridge (1998), II 5.7, 5 pitches
Mt. Rainier (14,411 ft.); 81 ascents,
Disappointment Cleaver (6/1992), II 40o
Emmons Glacier, solo (6/1994), II 35o
Gibraltar Ledges (4/1994), II 40o
Ingraham Direct, winter ascent (2/1994), II 45o
Liberty Ridge (5/1994), IV 50o
Mowich Face, solo (10/1998), III 50o
Nisqually Ice Cliff (4/1995), III 50o
Russell Cliffs Var. 1 (6/1998), III 50o
Russell Cliffs Var. 2 (6/1996), III 5.0 50o
Russell Cliffs Var. 3 (6/1997), III 60o
South Tahoma Headwall (7/1997), IV 55o
Success Cleaver (6/1997), III 45o
Winthrop Glacier (6/1995), II 40o
Notable speed ascent (6/1997): Emmons Glacier - Camp Schurman to summit: 1h, 56min.; 3h, 5min. r.t.
Sahale Peak (8,680 ft.), Quien Sabe Glacier (7/1996)
Seven Fingered Jack (9,077 ft.), West Route (7/2007)
Sharkfin Tower (8,120 ft.), Southeast Ridge (7/1996), II 5.0, 3 pitches
Sherpa Peak (8,605 ft.),
North Ridge (7/1998), IV 5.9, 12 pitches
West Ridge, solo (9/2002), II 5.6, 4 pitches
Mt. Shuksan (9,127 ft.), North Face and East Ridge Direct (6/1994), IV 5.5 50o
Silver Star Mountain (8,876 ft.), Silver Star Glacier (5/1994), II class 3 30o
Mt. Slesse (7,800 ft.), Northeast Buttress (8/1995), V 5.10, 26 pitches
Snow Creek Wall (3,900 ft.),
Hyperspace (6/2010), III 5.11a, 8 pitches
Iconoclast (6/2005), III 5.10c, 7 pitches
Mary Jane Dihedral (6/2006), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Orbit (7/1996), III 5.9, 6 pitches; 6 ascents
Outer Space (5/1994), III 5.9, 6 pitches; 8 ascents, 1 winter
White Slabs (6/1998), II 5.7, 6 pitches
South Early Winter Spire (7,807 ft.),
East Buttress Direct (6/1995), III+ 5.11a, 8 pitches
The Hitchhiker (7/2010), IV 5.11b, 9 pitches
Northwest Face (7/2006), III 5.11a, 8 pitches
The Passenger (7/2010), IV 5.11c, 7 pitches
South Buttress (6/2005), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Mt. Spickard (8,879 ft.), East Ridge (7/1999), II 5.0 50o, 500m
Mt. Stuart (9,415 ft.),
Complete North Ridge (6/1995), V 5.9, 31 pitches, 2 ascents
Girth Pillar (6/1998), V 5.10a A1, 20 pitches
Razorback Ridge (8/1999), IV 5.9, 18 pitches
West Ridge, solo (9/2002), III 5.6, 12 pitches
Stuart Range Traverse: 17 miles and eight peaks from Mt. Stuart to McClellan Peak (9/2002), 36 hours
The Talon (4,000 ft.),
North Face, first ascent (10/2001), I 5.9, 2 pitches
Southeast Face (4/2000), I 5.7, 3 pitches
South Face Direct, first ascent (4/2001), I 5.10c, 25 m
Tatoosh Range Traverse, North Ridge of Pinnacle, Castle, Unicorn, and Stevens peaks (6/2003), 5.6, 8 hours
The Tooth (5,604 ft.), South Face (5/1993), II 5.4, 4 pitches, 4 ascents
Mt. Triumph (7,270 ft.), Northeast Rige (7/2010), III 5.6
Vesper Peak (6,214 ft.), North Face (8/2009), II+ Class 5
West McMillan Spire (8,000 ft.), West Ridge (8/2010)
Whatcom Peak (7,574 ft.), South Route (8/2005), II Class 4
Witches Tower (8,520 ft.), West Ridge (6/1998), I 5.7, 2 pitches

Chugach Mountains:
Bomber Glacier Traverse, 30 mile alpine and glacial traverse (7/2002)
Eklutna Glacier Traverse, 40 mile glacial traverse (7/2001)
Hut Peak, West Ridge (7/2001), II 55o, 400 m
O’Malley Peak to the Wedge ridge traverse, Includes 4 summits, solo (6/2002), class 4
Mt. Ovis, South Ridge, solo (7/2001), II class 4, 800m
South Suicide Peak, East Face, first ascent, (12/2005), IV 80o, 700m,
Ptarmigan Peak traverse, 7 summits from Flat-Top Mountain to Powerline Pass Peak, solo (6/2002), class 4

Mexico Volcanoes:
Iztaccihuatl (17,342 ft.), South Ridge (12/1998)
La Malinche (14,640 ft.), North Route (12/1998)
Pico De Orizaba (18,700 ft.), West Face (12/1998)

Sierra Nevada:
Cathedral Peak (10,911 ft.), Southeast Buttress (8/2010), III 5.6, 5 pitches
Eichorn Pinnacle (10,680 ft.), North Face (8/2010), 5.4, 1 pitch
Mt. Conness (12,649 ft.), West Ridge (8/2010), III 5.6, 12 pitches
Matthes Crest (10,918 ft.), Traverse from N to S (8/2010), III 5.7, 8 pitches
Mt. Russell (14,094 ft.), Fishhook Arête (8/2010), III 5.9, 8 pitches
Tenaya Peak (10,280 ft.), Northwest Buttress (8/2010), III 5.5, 14 pitches
Mt. Whitney (14,505 ft.),
East Buttress (8/2010), III 5.7, 11 pitches
East Face (8/2010), III 5.7, 13 pitches

Yosemite Valley:
El Capitan,
Mescalito (9/1999), VI 5.10 A2+, 25 pitches
Salathe (10/1999), VI 5.12 C2-, 34 pitches
Tangerine Trip (10/2000), VI 5.8 C2+, 18 pitches
Zodiac (10/1997), VI 5.10 C2+, 16 pitches
Half Dome, Direct Northwest Face (9/1998), VI 5.10 A2, 22 pitches
Higher Cathedral Rock, Northeast Buttress (9/2000), IV 5.9, 10 pitches
Higher Cathedral Spire, South Face (9/2000), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Leaning Tower, West Face (9/1997), V 5.8 C2-, 10 pitches
Lost Arrow Spire, Direct South Face (10/1997), VI 5.10 A3, 18 pitches
Lower Cathedral Spire, South Face (9/2000), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Middle Cathedral Rock,
Central Pillar (9/2000), II 5.9, 5 pitches
Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress (9/1999), IV 5.10c, 10 pitches
Royal Arches, Regular Route (9/2000), III 5.7, 12 pitches
Washington Column, The Prow (9/1997), V 5.8 C2, 12 pitches

Southwest U.S.: Desert Towers, Bigwalls, and Routes:

Arches National Park:
Argon Tower, West Face (4/2008), II 5.11, 3 pitches
Dark Angel, West Face (10/2009), I 5.10+, 2 pitches
Off-Balanced Rock, North Chimney (3/2007), I 5.6, 2 pitches
Owl Rock, Olevsky Route (3/2007), I 5.9, 2 pitches
The Three Gossips, West Face (4/2008), III 5.11, 3 pitches
The Three Penguins, Right Chimney (10/2009), II 5.10c, 2 pitches
Tower of Babel, Zenyatta Entrada (10/2009), IV 5.8 C3, 6 pitches

Canyonlands National Park:
Blocktop, Original Route (4/2008), IV 5.10 C2, 5 pitches
Charlie Horse Needle, North Face (10/2009), III 5.11c, 3 pitches
Chip Tower, Stuffin’ Nuts (4/2008), III 5.8 C1, 4 pitches
Dale Tower, Boy’s Night Out (4/2008), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches
Enigmatic Syringe, Altered Sanity (4/2008), III C3, 2 pitches
Islet in the Sky, Original Route (10.2009), IV 5.10 C3, 6 pitches
Meemohive (4/2008), III 5.9 C2, 4 pitches
The Mock Turtle, Mud Wrestling (10/2009), IV 5.10+, 5 pitches
Monster Tower, Kor Route (4/2008), IV 5.10 C2, 7 pitches
Moses, Primrose Dihedrals (3/2007), IV 5.11d, 7 pitches
The Pixie Stick, West Face (10/2009), III C3, 2 pitches
Shark’s Fin, Fetish Arête (4/2008), III 5.10+ R, 5 pitches
Standing Rock, Kor Route (4/2008), III 5.11, 4 pitches
Tiki Tower, Brave Little Toaster (10/2009), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches
Washer Woman, In Search of Suds (4/2008), III 5.10+, 5 pitches

Castle Valley:
Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route (3/2007), III 5.9, 4 pitches
Castleton Tower, North Chimney (3/2007), III 5.9, 4 pitches
Crooked Arrow Spire,(10/2009), III 5.8 C1, 2 pitches
The Nuns, Bad Habit (4/2008), II 5.11c, 3 pitches
The Priest, Honeymoon Chimney (4/2008), III 5.11, 4 pitches
The Rectory, Fine Jade (3/2007), III 5.11a, 4 pitches
Sister Superior, Jah Man (3/2007), III 5.10c, 4 pitches

Colorado National Monument:
Independence Monument, Otto’s Route (3/2008), III 5.9, 6 pitches
Sentinel Spire, Fast Draw (10/2009), II 5.10, 3 pitches

Comb Ridge:
Prayer Stick, Magic Man (10/2009), III 5.10+, 4 pitches

Dragoon Mountains:
Cochise Dome, What’s My Line (1/2002), II 5.6, 3 pitches
The Wasteland Pinnacle, Wasteland (1/2002), II 5.8, 6 pitches
Whale Dome, Moby Dick (1/2002), III 5.8, 6 pitches

Fisher Towers:
Ancient Art, Corkscrew Route (3/2007), II 5.10d, 4 pitches
Boxtop, North Face (10/2009), I 5.10, 1 pitch
The Cobra (3/2007), 5.11 R, 1 pitch, 2 ascents
Echo Tower, Phantom Spirit (10/2009), IV 5.9 C2+, 6 pitches
Kingfisher, Colorado Northeast Buttress (3/2007), IV 5.8 C2, 5 pitches
Lizard Spire, Entrance Fee (3/2007), I 5.8, 1 pitch
River Tower, North Face (10/2009), III 5.8 C2, 3 pitches
The Titan, Finger of Fate, solo (4/2008), IV 5.9 C2, 10 pitches

Indian Creek:
Easter Island Tower (4/2008), II 5.10, 2 pitches
King of Pain, Vision Quest (4/2008), III 5.10+, 4 pitches
North Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks (4/2008), III 5.11a, 2 pitches
South Six Shooter, South Face (3/2008), II 5.8, 3 pitches
Sparkling Touch Tower (4/2008), 5.11-, 2 pitches
Sunflower Tower, East Face (4/2008), III 5.10, 3 pitches
Thumbelina Tower, Learning to Crawl (4/2008), 5.11, 1 pitch

Mexican Hat:
Mexican Hat, Bandito Route (10/2009), I C1, 1 pitch

Mill and Tusher Canyons:
Echo Pinnacle, Window Route (4/2008), III 5.11a, 3 pitches
The House of Putterman, Walden’s Room (4/2008), II 5.10+, 4 pitches

Onion Creek:
The Hindu, Maverick (10/2009), III 5.8 C2, 4 pitches

Red Rocks:
Black Orpheus (3/2005), III 5.10a, 10 pitches
Cat in the Hat Buttress (3/2002), II 5.6, 6 pitches
Crimson Chrysalis (3/2003), III 5.8, 8 pitches
Eagle Dance (3/2008), IV 5.10c A0, 9 pitches
Epinephrine (3/2002), IV 5.9, 18 pitches
Frogland (3/2008), III 5.8, 7 pitches
Geronimo (3/2003), II 5.7, 6 pitches
Johnny Vegas (3/2005), II, 5.7, 4 pitches
Levitation 29 (4/2003), IV 5.11c, 7 pitches
Olive Oil (3/2005), II 5.7, 6 pitches
The Prince of Darkness (4/2003), III 5.10c, 6 pitches
Solar Slab (3/2005), III 5.7, 8 pitches
Sour Mash (3/2008), III 5.10a, 5 pitches
Yellow Brick Road (3/2008), III 5.10c, 6 pitches

River Road (Moab):
Dolomite Spire, Kor Route (10/2009), III 5.9 C2, 4 pitches
Lighthouse Tower, Lonely Vigil (10/2009), II 5.10- R, 4 pitches

Superstition Mountains:
Grandfather Hobgoblin, (3/2008), III 5.9, 4 pitches
The Hand, Razor’s Edge, (3/2008), II 5.6, 3 pitches
The North Buttress, Spider Walk (3/2008), III 5.6 R, 4 pitches
The Periscope, (3/2008) 5.4 R, 1 pitch
The Pickle, (3/2008) 5.4 R, 1 pitch
The Prong, (3/2008) 5.6, 2 pitches
The Tower, (3/2008), II 5.8 R, 2 pitches

Valley of the Gods:
Eagle Plume Tower, South Face (10/2009), III 5.10, 4 pitches
Petard Tower, Hurley-Rearick Route (10/2009), II 5.9 C1, 3 pitches
Putterman in a Bathtub, It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Putterman (10/2009), II 5.9 C1, 2 pitches
Putterman on the Throne, Supercalifragilisticexpialiputterman (10/2009), III 5.9 C1, 3 pitches

Zion National Park:
Angels Landing,
Lowe Route (4/2002), V 5.10 C2+, 14 pitches
Prodigal Sun, solo (4/2003), IV 5.8 C1, 10 pitches; 3 ascents
Cerebus Gendarme, Touchstone (4/2002), IV 5.10 C1, 8 pitches, 2 ascents
Desert Shield Buttress, Desert Shield (4/2002), V 5.11a C3, 10 pitches
Fang Wall, Fang Spire (5/2002), IV 5.9 C3, 7 pitches
Leaning Wall, Space Shot (4/2002), IV 5.10 C1, 8 pitches; 2 ascents
The Minotaur, Megamahedral (5/2002), III 5.10+, 6 pitches
Moonlight Buttress area,
Lunar Ecstasy (4/2002), V 5.10 C2+, 11 pitches
Moonlight Buttress, solo (4/2003), V 5.10 C1, 11 pitches; 3 ascents
Sheer Lunacy (4/2002), V 5.10 C2, 9 pitches
Muralla del Sol, Beyond the Pale (4/2002), VI 5.11a C3, 12 pitches
The Organ,
Organasm (4/2002), III 5.8 C2, 4 pitches
The Organ, Organ Grinder (4/2002), II 5.9+, 2 pitches
The Pulpit, Normal Route (3/2008), I 5.9 A0, 2 pitches
Spearhead Mountain, Iron Messiah (3/2008), III 5.10c, 10 pitches
Swoop Gimp Wall, Swoop Gimp, (4/2002), IV 5.10 C2+, 10 pitches
Temple of Sinawava, Monkey Finger (4/2002), III 5.10 C1, 9 pitches

Notable speed ascents:
Space Shot, Moonlight Buttress, and Prodigal Sun: 15 hours, 28 minutes car to car (4/2002).
Prodigal Sun, solo ascent: 7 hours, 15 minutes (4/2003)
Moonlight Buttress, solo ascent: 6 hours, 32 minutes (4/2003)
The Titan, Finger of Fate, solo onsight ascent: 8 hours, 53 minutes (4/2008)

North American Ice Routes:

Alaska:
Eklutna,
Mad Dog (3/2002), II WI 4, 20m
Boonesfarm (3/1998), II WI 3, 60m, 2 ascents
Ripple (3/1998), II WI 3, 65m, 2 ascents
Valdez,
Bridalveil Falls (3/2006), V WI 5, 600'
Keystone Greensteps (3/2006), V WI 5, 650', 2 ascents

Canadian Rockies:
Bison Falls (2/2003), III WI 3, 80 m
Carlsberg Column (2/2004), III WI 5, 90 m
Cascade (11/2003), III WI 3, 300 m
Cool Spring (2/2003), III WI 5+, 35 m
Curtain Call (2/2004), IV WI 6, 125 m
Gibraltar Wall (3/2003), II WI 4, 145 m
Hydrophobia (one day link-up with Sorcerer) (2/2004), IV WI 5+, 150 m
Ice Nine (2/2004), IV WI 6, 95 m
Lady Wilson's Cleavage, solo (11/2003), III WI 3, 300 m
Louise Falls (2/2003), II WI 4+, 110 m
Malignant Mushroom (2/2003), II WI 5, 55 m
Massey’s (2/2003), III, WI 4, 140 m
Merchison Falls (2/2003), III WI 4+, 180 m
N’ice Baby (2/2004), IV WI 5, 110 m
Oh Le Tabernac (2/2004), III WI 5+, 55 m
Polar Circus (2/2003), V WI 5, 700 m
Professor Falls (2/2003), III WI 4, 280 m
Red Man Soars (2/2007), IV WI 4 5.10
Snow Line (3/2003), III WI 4, 100 m
Sunshine Falls (2/2007), WI 3, 45m
The Sorcerer (2/2003), IV WI 5, 185 m, 2 ascents
This House of Sky, solo (11/2003), III WI 3, 500 m
Transparent Fool (2/2003), IV WI 5, 45 m
Weathering Heights (2/2003), III WI 4, 100 m
Weeping Wall (2/2003), II WI 4, 160 m
Whiteman Falls (2/2007), IV WI 6
Wicked Wanda (2/2003), II WI 4+, 80 m

Cody, Wyoming:
Mean Green with top WI6 variation (2/2008), IV WI6, 7 pitches
Broken Hearts, through 6th pitch (2/2008), IV WI 6, 6 pitches
High on Boulder and Pillar of Pain (2/2008), IV WI 5, 5 pitches
Moonrise (2/2008), III WI 5, 3 pitches
Dressed to Kill (2/2008), III WI 5, 1 pitch
Ovisight (2/2008), IV WI 6, 4 pitches
The Moratorium (2/2008), III WI 4, 2 pitches

Lillooet:
Icy BC (2/2000), II WI 5, 3 pitches
Night N’ Gale (2/2000), III WI 4, 5 pitches
Salmon Stakes (2/2000), III WI 3, 5 pitches

Washington State:
The Cable (2/2006), WI 6, 1 pitch
Champagne (2/2006), WI 5, 2 pitches
Children of the Sun (1/2005), WI 5, 1 pitch
Drury Falls (2/2006), IV WI5, 5 pitches
The Pencil (2/2006), WI 5, 3 pitches
Salt and Pepper (2/2006), 5.6, WI 5, 3 pitches
The Sundance Kid (1/2005), WI 5, 1 pitch
Tea in the Sahara (1/2007), WI 5, 2 pitches

Utah:
Stairway to Heaven (1/2008), WI5, 6 pitches


Africa:

Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,885 m), Machame Route (2/2009)


Asia:

China:
Camel Peak (5,484 m), South Glacier Route (10/2005)
Mt. Daogou (5,465 m), Salvage Op., first peak ascent (10/2005), V 5.10d
Lara Shan (5,700 m), American Standard, first peak ascent (4/2007), IV 70-degree ice
Peak 5,965 meters, Inglis-Puryear route, first peak ascent (10/2007), V 5.7 65-degree ice
The Angry Wife (5,020 m) ,Raindog Arête, first peak ascent (10/2005), IV 5.10c

Nepal:
Jobo Rinjang (6,778 m), South Face, first peak ascent (4/2009)
Kang Nachugo (6,735 m), South Face to West Ridge, first peak ascent (10/2008)
Kyajo Ri (6,168m), Southwest Ridge (4/2009)
Parchamo (6,273 m), North Ridge (10/2008)
Peak 5,766 meters, South Ridge (10/2008)
Peak 5,050 meters, West Face (10/2008)
Ramdung (5,925 m), Ramdung Glacier route (10/2008)
Takargo (6,771 m), East Face, first peak ascent, winter ascent (3/12/2010)
Yalong Ri (5,630 m), East Face (10/2008)

Nepal Ice Routes:
Beyul, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 700 meters
Broken Thumb, first ascent (2/2010), WI6, 2 pitches
Cousin-Brother Left, first ascent (2/2010), WI 4, 3 pitches
Cousin-Brother Middle, first ascent (2/2010), WI 5, 2 pitches
Cousin-Brother Right, first ascent (2/2010), WI3, 1 pitch
The Gateway, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 2 pitches
Nemari Left, first ascent (2/2010), WI5+, 4 pitches
Nemari Right, first ascent (2/2010), WI5, 5 pitches
NMIA Left (2/2010), WI4, 3 pitches
NMIA Right, first ascent (2/2010), WI5, 2pitches
Pagaga Falls, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 4 pitches
Sneaky Pinky, first ascent (2/2010), WI4, 2 pitches
The Swath, first ascent (2/2010), WI3, 3 pitches


Europe:

Alps:
Blumlisalphorn (3664 m), North Wall (8/2002), D 55o, 700 m
Buufal, Farfallina (8/2002), 6b, 7 pitches
Diemtigtal, Syndrom (9/2009), 6a+, 5 pitches
Eiger (3,970 m), Mittellegi Ridge (8/2002), D 5.6, 800 m
Engelhorner, Klein Simelistock, Gagelfanger (8/2002), 6b+, 15 pitches,
Graue Wand, Conquest (8/2002), VIII (5.11d), 8 pitches,
Hintesberg, Escalera (9/2009), 6a, 6 pitches
Klein Bielenhorn Sudwand,
Hagar der Schreckliche, 6c, 4 pitches,
Novembertroeumli, 6b+, 8 pitches,
Lobhörner, (2,566 m), Herbstzyt E-W (9/2009), 5c+, 7 pitches
Meniggrund Pfeiler, Thuner Weg (9/2009), 5c+, 8 pitches
Monch (4,107 m), Northwest Ridge, Nollen Route (8/2002), D 60o, 1800 m
Tscharrenfluh Einstieg, Trans Sibiria (8/2002), 6a+, 6 pitches
Wissenflue,
Crescendo (9/2009), 6b+, 3 pitches
Stark mit Quark (9/2009), 6a+, 3 pitches
Wendenstock, Aureus (8/2002), 6c R, 10 pitches


South America:

Andes:
Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), Normal Route (1/1997), PD, 2700 m
Alpamayo (19,511 ft.), Southwest Face (7/2003), AD+, 650 m
Artesonraju (19,767 ft.), Southeast Face (7/2003), D, 800 m
Huascaran (22,205 ft.), Garganta Route (7/2003), PD, 3500 m
Ishinca (18,143 ft.), Northeast Ridge (6/2003), F, 500 m
Tocllaraju (19,797 ft.), Northwest Ridge (6/2003), AD-, 700 m
Urus Este (17,782 ft.), Southeast Ridge (6/2003), PD-, 800 m

Patagonia:
Guillamet (8,460 ft.),
Amy Couloir (1/2001), IV 5.6 65o, 300 m
Northeast Buttress (2/2001), IV 5.10d, 300 m


Other areas climbed:

Seward Highway, Alaska
Cochise Stronghold, Arizona: cragging routes (plus see above)
Granite Dells, Arizona
Joshua Tree National Park, California: 100+ routes
Yosemite, California: 50+ cragging and multi pitch routes (plus see above)
City of Rocks, Idaho
Red Rocks, Nevada: 50+ cragging routes (plus see above)
Smith Rocks, Oregon: 50+ routes
Potash Road/Kane Creek, Moab, Utah
Zion National Park, Utah: cragging routes (plus see above)
Frenchman Coulee, Washington: 150+ routes
Leavenworth, Washington: 150+ cragging and multi pitch routes
Little Si, Washington
Index, Washington: 50+ cragging and multi pitch routes (plus see above)
Mazama, Washington
The Tieton, Washington: 100+ cragging routes (plus see above)
Bear Spirit Crag, British Columbia, Canada
Haffner Creek, British Columbia, Canada
Squamish, British Columbia, Canada
Biji, Switzerland
Lammi, Switzerland
Lehn, Switzerland
Harder, Switzerland
Schilingsflue, Switzerland
Stadenflue, Switzerland
Wilderswil, Switzerland
Railay Beach, Thailand
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Oct 27, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
So sory to hear this.
roadman

climber
Oct 27, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
I'm so sorry for Joe's family. Very sad.
Brian

climber
California
Oct 27, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
Terrible news.

requiescat in pace

Brian
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 27, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
hey there say, AKTrad.... and to mt. rainier associates, and climbers, and all that knew him...

my condolences and prayers to the family and friends of joe...

sadly, i knew fully know who these folks are, and worse yet, i only learn of them when they die---but each one, in this family of the greatoutdoors has shared parts of themselves in ways that help others, in life, far beyond what the ever know...

god bless... and as for joe's life, and all the guidance given, to those that were in his midst, thanks for being "forerunners" to so many others that needed you...

ryanb

climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 27, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
I only met Joe once when he and Michelle let three of us crash on their floor in leavenworth on our way to go ice climbing in eastern washington. He had just banged a hole in his lower lip dry tooling and it hurt to laugh but he couldn't help himself and spent part of the evening holding his lower lip away from his teeth with both hands while laughing hysterically in between taking laps around the makeshift drytool cave in his basement... he was truly a warm friendly individual as well as an amazing climber.
wbw

climber
'cross the great divide
Oct 27, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
This is terrible. Joe gave us beta and confidence navigating the melting Ruth Glacier in July, as we shared a campsite with Joe and Chad a few years ago. We were the only two parties in the Ruth, during conditions that were described as "committing" to us by the Talkeetna climbing rangers.

Great guy, great psyche, incredibly experienced. He sent me a very nice email after I had returned to Boulder, and I always thought it would be fun to cross paths with him again.

Along with Tyler Anderson, this is the second person in three months that I met in the mountains in recent years, who possessed a special combination of experience and friendliness, who died by falling through snow. They were both masters of their respective ranges.

I am terribly sorry for Joe's family.
TMO

Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
Oct 27, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
So very, very sorry for his family and friends. He was an inspiration, living the dream.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 27, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
Joe was one of the great ones. He had the rare combination of possessing amazing talents and being just a great guy. Its hard to accept what happened. He just had so much great energy.

Joseph Puryear on the first ascent of Goldfinger on The Stump.
Joseph Puryear on the first ascent of Goldfinger on The Stump.
Credit: Chris McNamara

I met Joe when he approached me to publish his Alaska book. I had never been to AK so Joe proposed a trip. It was one of the best climbing trips of my life. Partially because we got to climb so much. Partially because we just had a great time hanging out in the spectacular Ruth Gorge. We climbed a bunch of routes and a new climb Goldfinger but also just had a great time goofing off. He had mastered the art of big and long climbing trips: climbing hard is just as important as having fun when the weather is bad.

Here is a video slide show from the trip


After the trip, I was fired up to get the book done. Mainly, it was because Joe was even more obsessed than me on creating a really detailed and informative guide. In fact, a few months into the editing I was starting to slack off on the layout. Joe called me out on it and proposed he finish the layout. He didn't have much design experience, but I bought him a copy of Indesign, gave him a few pointers and he was off. Within a few months, he knew more about layout and design than me and the book actually got done! After finishing Alaska Climbing, he went on to start a design business. He combine a quick grasp of design with his amazing photos in Sherpa Gear Catalogs.

Joe climbed a ton of technical peaks and brought back incredible photos. you can read stories and see his images on his web site.

One of my favorite trip reports i have ever read is his I Love The Desert TR that he posted here on SuperTopo. That photo essay really captures how much he loved climbing, the outdoors, sending, and sharing.

I will miss Joe a lot. We didn't get to hang out nearly enough but I always loved riding along through his trip reports, stories and photos.

Sending my best thoughts to his amazing wife Michelle who shared many adventures with Joe and was a gracious host for our Alaska trip.

Once the shock wares off I'll post some more stories and photos. There were just so many!

Joe Puryear near the Ruth Gorge Alaska
Joe Puryear near the Ruth Gorge Alaska
Credit: Chris McNamara

Joe Puryear on the way out of the Ruth Gorge.
Joe Puryear on the way out of the Ruth Gorge.
Credit: Chris McNamara

Joe Puryear on the Ruth Glacier with Denali in the background.
Joe Puryear on the Ruth Glacier with Denali in the background.
Credit: Chris McNamara

Joe Puryear and a large stove board below the Cobra Pillar Mt Barille,...
Joe Puryear and a large stove board below the Cobra Pillar Mt Barille, Ruth Gorge Alaska
Credit: Chris McNamara
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
Oct 27, 2010 - 05:59pm PT
I never met Joe, but I'll miss him all the same. I've heard quite a bit about him. That guy got around!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 27, 2010 - 06:17pm PT

My condolences to Joe's family and friends.
Like Todd Gordon said, his post about desert climbing on
the taco stand was one of the best.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Oct 27, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
this is horrible news
my condolences to his friends and family.
p.s.
great pics Chris
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati
Oct 27, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
http://vimeo.com/joepuryear
Hoots

climber
Toyota Tacoma
Oct 27, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
This is horrible news. I hope his family can find peace, and that his partner can return safely and begin putting it all back together. He was one of the Tribe, for sure.
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Oct 27, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
So saddened to hear this. We met Joe in the Bugaboos in '03, a great spirit. All best wishes to his loved ones.
MH2

climber
Oct 27, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
Sad(news), great(list of climbs), hilarious(thanks, ryanb).

Thank you, SuperTopians.
11worth

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Oct 27, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
RIP Joe
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 27, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
My condolences to family and friends.

Patrick
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 27, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
What a terrible thing to come home and read.



"It’s snowing. All the climbers are huddling in the lodge or lingering as long as possible in the cafeteria over cups of coffee and tea. It is all so familiar to me. I’ve done so much spacing out in the past years at different places in the world, different mountain ranges waiting for the weather to clear, to go back up, to get out of the tent and start to climb. Or putting idle time in some café in Europe or somewhere else along the way. Waiting for the weather to break in the far north, to be flown into some vast glacier range. There have been so many times like this, my mind wandering, to past experiences in my life, to friends long since seen, to future climbs. My imagination is a gift for my life. The climbs to do are creations to understand, not to be surprised. Experience has been my teacher as I have studied the mountains intensely… I am so lucky to have such a life – to have such freedom - not the social and political but the freedom that is my spirit. I don’t know where it comes from - the life has been from you - but what is the spirit? There are many climbers as I look around this room – all different – some restless, some new at the “hang” in life. The drives are as different as the people. I am lucky to be able to sit in this room, in the fields, on the glaciers, on the wall. It’s empty and yet I’m full."


from this wonderful thread celebrating Mugs Stump http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=440954&tn=0&mr=0
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Oct 27, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
Dam, if I don't feel like a fighter on the ropes, covering my head, wondering where the next blow will come.
Very sad news indeed. Sounds like a simple misstep on the ridge line.
Joe's Alaska Guide bought a thousand tickets north and will continue to guide adventure there for years to come. Small consolation.
My condolences to family and friends.
I know alpinism is inherently dangerous, but I am really tired of losing brothers in arms. Enough for this year. Please. be careful out there folks.
Tony
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Oct 27, 2010 - 10:24pm PT
Damn. This is really bad news, Joe was a super solid dude with a great heart and spirit.

Really bummed about this news.

Erik
TrevorD

Gym climber
Victor ID
Oct 27, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
Damn, Joe we will miss you. It had been a while my friend but I will never forget your easy and quick smile. It says a lot about Joe that as a veteran climber he was always willing to take time to mentor or give a helpful word of advice to those with less knowledge like myself. Damn dude you were always so fast climbing. It seems unbelievable that gravity ever caught you. I learned a ton about speed and efficiency and fun climbing with you in Zion and Red Rocks. I feel fortunate that I got to do some route with you but mostly, I learned as you smoked us doing walls in a day - you solo. Laura and I would meet you back in camp, tired and you were relaxed and energetic - waiting with dinner started or an open beer. Fun, Energy, Mischief. I will go out and buy some tomato stakes (wands) tomorrow to craft a bow. It is a fond memory of mine returning to Denali base camp and shooting this massive creation that you had constructed. Michelle, I am so sorry for your loss. We met only once and briefly at that but know this: When Joe was away from you he spoke of you often and with admiration that was inspiring. Rest easy my friend. T
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Oct 27, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
Whoa. So very sad.

I've really enjoyed poring over his SuperTopo creation Alaska Climbing, studying the pictures and topos, and dreaming about future climbing trips to Alaska -- and will be thinking of him every time I ponder another climb there.

My sincere condolences to his family, climbing partners, and other friends.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Oct 27, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
So sad to read this. My condolences to his family and friends and everyone whose lives he touched.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Oct 27, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
Very sad-what an incredible climber.RIP
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Oct 28, 2010 - 02:17am PT
bummer, that is quite a resume. so sorry for friends and family, he surely did live life in a large way. steve schneider
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Oct 28, 2010 - 11:13am PT
From CascadeClimbers.com:

I received one of those dreaded phone calls early this morning with the news that my good friend Joe Puryear died while ascending Labuche Kang (7,367 meters, 24,170 feet) in a remote region of Tibet.
Joe was a former climbing ranger on Mount Rainier and one of America’s elite alpinists. He joined the staff at Camp Schurman in 1996 with Mark Westman and Lara Bitenieks. They represented a new cadre of skilled climbers who together helped changed the way our climbing rangers did business and served the public for the National Park Service. For two years, Joe led the climbing rangers on the east side of Mount Rainier and participated in many difficult rescues. He was greatly respected for his climbing skills and ability manage complex situations both on the mountain and in the front country. Joe’s talents led him to pursue a career in alpinism and along the way he authored books on climbing in the Alaska Range and in the desert SW of America. Most recently, he and David Gottlieb received prestigious climbing grants (Mugs Stump, Gore, and Lyman Spitzer) in order to ascend unclimbed peaks and frozen waterfalls in Nepal and Tibet.
I don’t have a lot of information at this time, but the word is that Joe fell through a cornice. He was with David at the time, but David did not witness the event. He ascended the top the ridgeline after putting on his crampons only to find Joe's tracks leading to a broken ledge. Fearing the worst, he descended 1,500 feet to find Joe, who did not survive the fall, and shortly there after retrieved the sat phone enabling him to make a call to the US. David was alone at the time, but does have the help of one Sherpa at base camp. They are in a very remote region without rescue services and it’s unclear what his next steps will be. For now, I am thinking about David as he descends the mountain back to base camp.
Once again, the Mount Rainier climbing community has been rocked with the lose of a wonderful friend and person. Joe was good friend with Lara, who died while climbing on Mount Wake in 2007 in the Alaska Range, and also with Charlie Borgh, who was swept to his death in an avalanche on Mount Delta Form in Alberta, Canada 2008.
I’ll send out more information about the accident, David’s descent, and a memorial when possible. I have attached a picture of Joe as I remember him best, in the mountains and on top of his game.
Information about the expedition can be found at: http://climbtibet.blogspot.com/
bergbryce

Mountain climber
Oakland
Oct 28, 2010 - 11:22am PT
My thoughts are with you Ralph, his friends and loved ones.
Rest in peace, Joe.
-Bryce
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Oct 28, 2010 - 11:34am PT
That is an incredible video that CMac posted up!

Perfect soundtrack for this sad time also. Emotional, without being "too" much of anything.
What a great spirit.
Thanks Chris.
Crodog

Social climber
Oct 28, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#175802

photo not found
Missing photo ID#175813
emac

climber
New Hampshire
Oct 28, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
So sad to hear this.

Joe and Michelle in the Superstitions
Joe and Michelle in the Superstitions
Credit: emac
COT

climber
Door Number 3
Oct 28, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
While I never met Joe in person, we emailed and talked on the phone when he was working on the Alaska guide. From those brief communications it was easy to "see" what a great person he was. He had the climbing energy of 12 year old gym grommet, the mountain experience and knowledge beyond his years and humility we all strive to achieve.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Oct 28, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
RIP Joe

saw this on the internet, thought id share it, it had more pics and info;

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37689


Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 29, 2010 - 10:14am PT
Here is a post from another thread by Ben Summit:

Thank you to everyone who has posted condolences and remembrances about Joe. As his brother-in-law I can tell you that I and the rest of his family read and appreciate every post.

Many people have been interested in making a donation to help us with the cost of bringing Joe back home. We have set up a donation fund on Joe's blog if you would like to contribute. http://climbtibet.blogspot.com/

Thank you again.

Ben
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Oct 29, 2010 - 10:21am PT
My sincere condolences to his family and friends. Sounds like the climbing community lost a very impressive climber and great guy. RIP.
pc

climber
Oct 29, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
Very sad news. He was a shining light.

All the best to Joe's family and friends in this tough time.

Peter in Seattle
ama dablam

climber
seattle
Oct 30, 2010 - 01:09am PT
Hello My name is Matt Fioretti, I am a friend of Joes. I do not know how to contact Michelle. Please if someone knows Michelle contact info please let her and family know that I am in Nepal and am able to help in anyway possible from this end. I could be in Tibet quickly. Please forward my email fourwindsexepeditions@gmail.com
My prayers and love to family.
JOEY.F

Social climber
sebastopol
Oct 30, 2010 - 01:32am PT
Sincere condoleces to Joe's family and friends.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Oct 31, 2010 - 08:38am PT
Speaking of coincidences, I only realized from looking at the photo of Kang Nachugo posted above by Crodog, that Joe Puryear was the originator of these wonderful photos and blog.

I had somehow come across them a few years ago and been enchanted as Kang Nachugo is in the Rolwaling Valley which I have studied for 35 years now. I spent many hours looking at those photos and my topo maps, seeing views of places I had not seen before because I was never that high in that particular spot. I didn't know the climbers involved so didn't focus on their names, only the blog and the photos which I made screen shots of to preserve. Thanks to the posting above, I discovered Joe's permanent web site.

Though we never met, and its too late to tell him personally, I thank Joe for adding to the documentation of one of the Himalaya's most beautiful and least known valleys. I hope to buy some of his photos and include them in my future published work. Without knowing it, Joe has contributed not only to the mountaineering, adventure, and photography worlds, but to the scholarly one as well.

Rest in peace!
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Oct 31, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
Very sad that another of the tribe has left us. Amazing of volume of climbing fit into an exciting life.

Sincerely,

Doug Pratt-Johnson
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 31, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
bumpity....I agree with Jan...his photography is astounding and would be a wonderful way to benefit his estate as well as add a thing of beauty to our homes.
emac

climber
New Hampshire
Nov 1, 2010 - 11:46am PT
From the TODAY show this morning...

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/39947751#39947751
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 1, 2010 - 11:54am PT
I was a little surprised by that report.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati
Nov 2, 2010 - 12:11am PT
Condolences to friends and family.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati
Nov 2, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2010/11/01/world/main7012384.shtml
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 2, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
Was out in the desert when the news broke. My heart goes out to Joe's family and friends, he was a special guy. The alpine environment is so unforgiving I wonder why we are so drawn to that beautiful but deadly arena.
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Nov 3, 2010 - 05:26am PT
rip dude

climbing is dangerous people
RasVegas

Trad climber
Goodyear
Nov 3, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
I am so freaking sick of good people dying! Damnit!! I realize that to push the limits sometimes these things happen but I'm so over it!

Many blessings and comfort to everybody who knew him.

Stay safe everybody!
Alpinist909

Mountain climber
Chesapeake
Nov 3, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
AArrrrrggggggggggggggggggggggg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




I don't know what to say........

Jokeslinger

Ice climber
Idaho
Nov 4, 2010 - 07:58am PT
Crap...thanks Joe for putting out the Alaska Climbing guide book.
bcso24

Social climber
Oroville, CA
Nov 4, 2010 - 09:14am PT
Very sad news, Chris. Sincere sympathy to all who knew him.
scooterm

Trad climber
Kailua,HI
Nov 5, 2010 - 06:19am PT
What a bummer):

Condolences to Michelle & the entire family. Joe was as steady as they come. He pretty much brought World Class climbing skills and endurance to first the Alaska Range then the world. It was an honor to have him on my Denali mountaineering patrols. I issued him the prestigious Denali Pro Pin.

Aloha, former ranger Scooter (the address book gets smaller)
Conrad

climber
Mar 4, 2011 - 10:01am PT
Two weeks ago in Kathmandu I bought a local beer at the corner shop in Lazimpat. The young man who owned the "mini 7 Eleven" (about the size of a closet) had a great command of the English language. We spoke about the Bryan Adams concert the following evening and how the $100 tickets were twice the average monthly Nepali wage. I asked him how the government is faring and how tourism, the big driver of the economy is doing. Things are looking up. Lots of Chinese and south Asia tourists, yet fewer Westies.

The gift shop next door was owner by Amrit Satyal and his brothers. He invited me in. Not really in the market for thankas (Tibetan paintings) or other fine curios from Nepal, we sat at the table and talked about the world. Conversation is a gift and a my favorite evening entertainment.

On the table was a copy of Joe's Alaska guide. All of a sudden the room was quite and a chill went up my spine. I looked at the book and it was inscribed to Amrit and his brothers.

Ends up Joe shopped at the store and Amrit helped Joe organize his climbs. We spoke of Joe's death and he shared with me the end of the tale in Kathmandu.

Dave transported his body back to Kathmandu. Which from the physical aspect is daunting. The China border at Kodari must have been a test of patience. Joe's parents flew out from California and the Stayal family was very helpful. They had dinner with the family.

The Stayal family organized the cremation of Joe's body at Pashipatinath, the traditional pyre for the Hindus. I imagine it was a pretty heavy scene.

While teaching Sherpa vo-tec this winter several climbers who had been with Joe expressed how much they liked Joe and what a fine person he was.

Thought Joe's close friends and family might find solace in this small story.

~c & Amrit at the New Mandala Thanka Art Gallery. Feb 11
~c & Amrit at the New Mandala Thanka Art Gallery. Feb 11
Credit: Conrad
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
thank's Conrad! such an international connection.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
Amazing, Conrad.

I've seen a cremation at Pashipatinath, and, you're right, its a heavy scene.

Great story, great connection.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
(hope my friend Steve is well...did you see him?)
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
New York, NY
Mar 4, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
Condolences to family and friends at this time. He surely sounds like one of those whose spirit carries others along and inspires them.
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 4, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
The Rolwaling Sherpa were indeed impressed by Joe's climbs in their Valley and I still look at the beautiful photos he took there. His legacy lives on.
Julie-Bird

climber
Bend Oregon
Apr 6, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
Joe is my brother-in-law and he is missed! What a nice message! Glad you had the opportunity to share stories with Joe's friends in Kathmandu.

Here is a link to Joe's blog - Michelle describes what an amazing outpouring of love while she and Joe's parents were in Kathmandu. http://climbtibet.blogspot.com/
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 6, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
Let not your heart be troubled: ye believe in God, believe also in me. In my Father's house are many mansions: if it were not so, I would have told you. I go to prepare a place for you. - John 14:1-2.

Beloved, now are we the sons of God, and it doth not yet appear what we shall be: but we know that, when he shall appear, we shall be like him; for we shall see him as he is. - 1 John 3:2



May God be with you Joe



Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 7, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
Wishing Joe the greatest adventure of All on this new journey

and sending condolence and love to all those who will miss his presence in their lives

Peace

Karl
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Oct 26, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
Joe Puryear scholarship is born 

Sherpa Adventure Gear, based in Kathmandu, has launched a grant honoring American climber Joe Puryear, perished one year agor while opening a new route on Labuche Kang, in Tibet. 

A 7 years old Sherpani was chosen among a pool of 30 kids from Namche Bazaar for full primary and secondary education granted by the scholarship.


http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20423


This is a milestone for both Joe and the Sherpas!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Oct 26, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
thanks jan.
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