Goldfinger, The Stump IV, 5.11a


Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 5-10 hours
Approach time: 20 minutes from Gorge
Descent time: 2-3 hours
Number of pitches: 12
Height of route: 1,800'
This “small” 1,800 foot formation is often overlooked for the bigger peaks in the Ruth. The perfectly triangular face tends to blend in with the great walls of the Mooses Tooth and the Eye Tooth. It was named in honor of Mugs Stump after his tragic death in 1992. The Stump is technically part of the Wisdom Tooth formation, although all of its routes logically end on The Stump’s lower summit point. The Wisdom Tooth has its own great south wall to the right of The Stump. The granite on these walls has a distinctively red color in places and is some of the best rock in the Ruth Gorge.

The south face is defined by two major dihedral systems that appear to converge perfectly at the summit. The left one holds one of the finest moderate rock climbs in the Gorge. This sustained moderate route on excellent rock sports good protection, easy access, and a straightforward descent.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: March 30, 2009
The Stump - Goldfinger IV, 5.11a - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
An overview of the line.
Photo: Joe Puryear
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