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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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Michael was unflappable throughout the climb.
As far as I know Peak 6980 just left of the Ogre is still unclimbed.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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Me at our highest bivy after many days of little food. A very ill Jeff next to me. We spent 26 days on the route with 14 days of food. Fritz wondered if I lost weight.
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Oct 24, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
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Jim,
I remember you talking about this trip in Toronto a few years ago - Thanks for posting them up.
Rob
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 24, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
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One of the greatest adventures in the history of alpinism.
Absolutely stunning photos Jim.
Please sir may we have some more?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
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I would love to hear the story of this climb. Is it in print anywhere?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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It also appears that, although his body mass shrank, his fingers grew!
Imagine what Artur Rubinstein could have done with those!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Oct 24, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
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Cool thread. Historic TR.
Prod.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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Jeez, I think that Latok1 is far more interesting than whether or not A5 exists- seems people here don't agree.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 24, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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Is there a rope on Jeff in the last pic? Kinda looks like it could be dangerous sawing away and shift balance, a little snow crumbles, and....
Edit: Just saw the biner and black sling on the right side. Phew!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
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A rope on a ledge that size, you have got to be kidding- besides, there's no place for a blue camalot.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 24, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
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This type of climbing and stuff is hard hard core.
Total respect .....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 07:27pm PT
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Thanks Werner, I wish folks here would get more into this kind of thread than the ones where they're slamming each other.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Oct 24, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
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Hey Jim,
How about some history. Who's plan was it to climb Latok1? Logistical issues? Pre game drama? The story of the climb etc.
Cheers,
Prod.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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Maybe Prod, I'm supposed to be climbing in the desert but delaying trip because of weather. It would be a lot of work and, frankly, I don't think it would stay up front for people to see. Threads that offer an opportunity for people to shout their opinions or trash someone else's constantly get bumped. I've had to work just to keep this thread, with historic photos, up front so that people like you get to see them- kind of frustrating.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Oct 24, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
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Jim: Worthy threads have a short life on ST forum. To make your thread last much longer, you can copy it and paste it into a Trip Report.
You have to hi-light what you want to copy, by holding the mouse-button down. Then right-click and copy what you have high-lighted.
Then you go to Trip Reports, start a new Trip report and paste in your forum postings.
It probably won't get bumped off the Trip Reports overnight and as you know Trip Reports show up in the forum--when someone bumps them.
Meantimes--here's a link to an Alpinist Magazine report on expedition failures on N. Ridge of Latok 1.
You gents still have the high-point after countless tries by others.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/newswire-latok
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
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Last photo.
Committing and strenuous to get the gear across. We now felt fully engaged.
Heading to the desert tomorrow, back sometime.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 24, 2010 - 08:45pm PT
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What a remarkable picture. I think I just pooped myself.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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Thanks Fritz, just too complicated for this luddite. I'm out of here, IC beckons.
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Cloudraker
Big Wall climber
BC
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Oct 24, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
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Bump for alpine
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