Starr King Peak Registers - Call for corrections, etc.


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Desolation Basin, Calif.
Oct 18, 2010 - 11:36am PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2010 - 11:54am PT
Great TR Boodawg!

Nice register shot, too! How many of those did the Club set in place, I wonder?!?

Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Oct 18, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Nice post Ken. I like the portrait shots of both you and Tim.

Trad climber
Oct 18, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
Wow, that goes back a ways, eh Kath?

No kiddin', Harringbone!

I still have the summit shot you took. . . when I get back to Shasta I'm going to scan it and post it up!



Hi to Darla!


Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 18, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
[*RE*-EDIT: I was wrong twice about the deaths on Anchors Away - sorry, I should have been more careful - maybe do a forum search and read my own post?].

In 1973 Tim Harrison rap bolted Willie's Hand Jive on Lembert Dome.

The 1974 "Accidents in North America" lists "Michael Harrison" in the accident on Anchors Away. So apparently his name was Michael Tim Harrison.

10/17/1973 - David Bryan and Michael [Tim] Harrison were the fatalities.
I wonder if they were working on the second pitch or something?

The FA is listed in the guidebook as in 1972 by Tim Harrison and Mike Breidenbach. Probably what this means is that Tim had done it with various partners to a high point where the fatality occurred. Then Mike Briedenbach finished it. Or maybe Mike was Tim's main partner on it? 1972 can't be correct since Tim was still working on it in 1973.

Anybody know more?

(After that 1973 double fatality, folks like Ron Skelton went back and added second anchor bolts to Apron climbs).

Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Oct 18, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
Steve: I'm guessing there were at least 100, maybe even 200 or 300 scattered on many of the named peaks of the Sierra. It's boggling since each one had its own cast aluminum cover. Probably someone at the Sierra Club or the Bancroft Library knows or could make a more educated guess.

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
Someone in the Sierra Peaks Section of the Sierra Club probably has an idea about the peaks with the register boxes. Certainly they have been placed on their list of 100+ peaks. I think the club itself is no longer that interested as it is a relatively inconsequential item in the scheme of things.


Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Oct 18, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
Realizing, of course, that those who actually get up to the peaks to sign a register are a self-selected group who don't represent the full spectrum of the climbing community, much less the whole of society, what are your observations (and judgments) about the changes that have taken place both in the climbing community and society, in general, since the Starr King register, at least, was placed there? Your have undoubtedly looked at this register more closely than anyone else, tho Guido and others now have the opportunity to do so now that you've done such great work with it for the rest of us.

Of course, your judgments may say more about you than they will about the climbing community or our society.

I look forward to hearing your views on this question. Thanks again for your work here.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 18, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
How do you thread the rope through that thing for lowering, after redpointing the climb? Maybe Weld_it was involved in some way - it looks like the sort of thing he might make.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
Oct 18, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
Just can't say how much I loved that peak and the friends I was able to climb it with. What a thrill to see those signatures again... thanks so much for what can only be described as your tireless effort.
Sam R

Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 18, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
This must be one of the only old registers in the Sierra without Norman Clyde's name in it!

Thanks for the note about my friend Sheldon Moomaw- I was with him in Afghanistan all those years ago...

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
I made changes as appropriate as noted by Harrington, Eleazarian and Sam R.

Clint mentioned the death of Tim Harrison, and that is in the book, too, and I will make the year 1972 vice 1972 or 1973.

Sam R.: I don't know if Clyde may have had an entry which was later removed as happened to Salathè and Nelson. There are at least two pages of missing entries.

They will show when the book is re-posted in a couple of weeks.
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Oct 19, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
This is quite a monumental work. I can't think of this having ever been done before.

Here is a small mistranscription: From 22 July 67, Tony Qamar was recorded as "Terry Qamar". Tony was an excellent climber and a member of the Cal hiking club in the 60s, killed in a freak incident when a logging truck lost it's load.

Nice supertopo thread on Tony:

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 19, 2010 - 03:35pm PT

I, too, remember seeing Clyde's name in there as well as Salathe's (on different pages, of course). I don't remember who Salathe's partners were, but since Ax lived in Fresno at the time, I probably didn't think it was so remarkable to see Nelson's signature.

I wonder how many other registers are now bereft of some priceless entries because of signature thieves.


Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2010 - 07:00pm PT
Thanks Eric. I must have been tired or had too much white.

Thanks Clint. It turns out a Hartouni list has Tim Harrison on the first ascent of Anchors Away, and I used that to see what other things I might learn about him. Since it seems inappropriate to ask who is who and who died when, I will delete the footnote references for Tim Harrison. In Supertopo I see Michael "Tim" Harrison, so I am totally confused on this issue.

John - It's too bad those signatures are gone, but this is all part of "history". From other readings I know Clyde climbed the Snow Cone under the Upper Falls in the 30's, and I was thinking he must have made it to Starr King, too, but nothing was in the register. Nelson was there for sure and the date is in the register in a reference by another climber, the Dipsea Demon.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 20, 2010 - 05:29am PT

You were right all along. Sorry, I got confused, too. I re-edited my post above. So Tim Harrison died in October 1973 on Anchors Away with David Bryan. The forum posts on Tim Harrison / Anchors Away from people who were there at the time (like Kevin Worrall) suggest the "Michael Harrison" listed in 1974 Accidents in North American Mountaineering was really known as Tim Harrison.

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2010 - 12:30am PT
Here is what we are looking at as far as torn out pages from the register. John Eleazarian saw Salathè's name on August 7, 1971. Chris Denny said it was missing on July 21, 1973. That means our suspects are about 81 people who signed in and perhaps some who did not between those dates. Also in that 81 people are some who used bogus names. So, who was it? Oh man...

And then I got a communication from someone who said it was him who done the dirty deed, but he went up after the 1973 date, so it wasn't. He took out someone elses (and others) name(s), but only the Lord knows who!! Oh boy...

At least it's entertaining.

Sport climber
Corvallis, OR
Oct 21, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
Bob, thanks for the kind words. I am indeed a water guy at Oregon State and taught at UNR from 1976 until 1989, but am not the same Michael Campana who climbed Mt. Starr King in the Sierra Nevada (unless I lost a year of my life somewhere).

The odd thing about this is that as a youngster, I climbed (hiked up) Mt. Starr King in the White Mountains of New Hampshire in the early 1960s, all the way to the top - 3907 feet above msl!

Michael Campana

Trad climber
portland, or
Oct 21, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
Bob, Mike Campana of OSU fame did climb Starr King, in New Hampshire! He does not recall ever being on the Sierra version.

EDIT: Sorry for the duplication; I just saw that Mike beat me to the (straighten the record) punch!

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
The book has been updated with a few changes, corrections, and additions. Check out page 438 for Nita's encounter with hornets. A picture was added for Jeff Van Middlebrook and his buddies plus some comments on pages 404-405. I'll leave it open for changes until Nov 17, 2010, should any of you out there wish to give me anything to add, etc.

Regarding the Bob Locke thread, a mention of his accident is in the register.

And, for those for whom it is necessary to appeal to baser instincts, there is a nude ascent. That will get you reading.

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