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Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
50 years ago Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Joe Fitschen and Chuck Pratt climbed the second ascent of the Nose. On October 23rd Royal, Tom and Joe are going to show some slides of this ascent and talk about their experience. Come join us at the East Auditorium in Yosemite Valley. It is open to the public and starts at 7:00pm. Some cool history! I hope to see you there.

Ken
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 5, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Wish I could...

Don't forget to give them a couple of shirts!
Dalyte

Trad climber
Nevada
Oct 5, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
I'll try to make it to the Valley on that weekend. That should be awesome slide show.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 5, 2010 - 10:57pm PT
Another thread on the same topic...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1207521&msg=1270499#msg1270499
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 6, 2010 - 01:05am PT
hey there say.... wow... bump for ken...

and bump for crowley....


history still has important things for us to glean from...


night all...
:)


past my work-goal time...
god bless to you all...
:)
Papillon Rendre

climber
Oct 6, 2010 - 01:11am PT
Julia and Virginia Parker?
Papillon Rendre

climber
Oct 6, 2010 - 01:14am PT
Beautiful photograph.
Wonder

climber
WA
Oct 6, 2010 - 01:16am PT
now thats what I wanted to see.
TFPUAC.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Oct 6, 2010 - 03:15am PT
I'm there!

I haven't met Tom Frost yet. Looking forward to it.
Anastasia

climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Oct 6, 2010 - 03:18am PT
i love Julia.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 6, 2010 - 08:44am PT
...I went to Yosemite for the first time
hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside
Oct 7, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
I was born!

Love that shot of Julia and Lucy.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 12, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
Event Bump!
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Oct 12, 2010 - 09:57pm PT
"Julia and Virginia Parker?"

Virginia Parker R.I.P.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
Talk about thread drift. I think Julia and her daughters deserve their own thread. This one is about the gathering that is only 10 days away. So who's coming?

Ken
F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Oct 12, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
Sounds like a show not to be missed !!!

I plan on being there
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 12, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
Happy Birthday, Hossjulia!

She, said it! rounding up, I'm sure! 29 is closer to 50.
HighTraverse

Social climber
Bay Area
Oct 12, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
Is Hossjulia 50 today?
Don't you know to never discuss a woman's age?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 14, 2010 - 11:42am PT
Nose Reunion II Bump!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 16, 2010 - 02:07am PT
beingtherebump
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
Should be fun!

Ken
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 16, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
As part of the upcoming gathering in celebration of the second ascent of the Nose, Tom Frost is going to be signing prints on Saturday, October 23 from 4-6 pm at the Mountain Shop in Curry Village. In addition to his set portfolio, a set of select Nose prints will also be available signed.
These prints are digital and very reasonably priced.

Tom will also have some of his current portflio of fine art prints on hand. More on this portfolio soon.

Royal will have books to sign.

So come meet these guys and support their work, it matters!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 17, 2010 - 10:57am PT
anyone ELSE have a site to share? Looking forward to this gathering. Late decision to go may leave me out of bounds hiding from the rangers!
Peace
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 18, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
bump for Cragman so he doesn't have to keep this alive!
Peace
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 18, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
When do you need me there, to wash the floor of the east auditorium and so on?

(Sure wish I could attend.)
AlexReinhard

climber
Oct 20, 2010 - 04:03pm PT
This DEFINITELY deserves a bump.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 20, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
Saturday at 7, east auditorium, go it!
TomCochrane

Trad climber
I've lost track...
Oct 21, 2010 - 03:08am PT
i plan to be there
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 21, 2010 - 11:14am PT
Frost photo and RR book signing from 4-6 at the Mountain Shop in Curry village. Special selection of prints from the second ascent of the Nose which was Tom's inaugural photo shoot!

Do yourself a service and support great climbing writing and photography! Tom's print prices aren't going to do anything but increase once the Book of Frost comes out next season! Get'em while they are hot with a grin and a signature!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
Bump.

Ken
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
This is tomorrow. Hello! Hope to see a good crowd.

Ken
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 22, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
How's the weather? I have a cold.
Probably be there anyway.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
So far so good Jay. It will probably hit tomorrow afternoon after Leo sends the Prophet.

Ken
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 24, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
Stories and photos, please! Even if it is unfortunately raining there this weekend. The unwashed masses demand instant gratification!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
Here are a few photos from the book and photo signing at the Mountain Shop.
I did not get any from the slide show as I was too busy. Ed Hartouni did get some and I am sure he will post them soon. It was a great evening.

http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/content/nose-2nd-ascent-reunion-photos

Ken
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 24, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
Driving into the Valley Saturday morning certainly convinced me that climbing was probably not part of the agenda this weekend... going over to look at the Captain was a dark and misty affair.


and the Cathedral Rocks had a similar demeanor


the rain was falling on and off and the wind blew, it seemed like a New England fall day. I walked up to the base of El Capitan to get some shots of the granite, close up, for a background on my computer desktop. Sorta remind myself all the time of the details that seem to matter so much when you're run out from your last pro and trying to unlock the secrets of the next few moves... you pay attention to the little features, it seemed a nice reminder.

From the base of Pine Line there is always drama happening across the Valley


the weather wasn't going to get any better.

Off the the Yosemite Lodge Cafeteria, finding Ron Gomez, Tom Cochrane and Jim Bridwell I took a seat and we hung out there for a few hours, meeting various of the current cohort of Valley climbers also hanging out in the rainy day.

That started to get old, so we all split out of the Cafeteria headed along different paths to end up in Curry Village to attend the books signing... I got there early and was setting up to catch images of people arriving. Apparently I was also being evaluated for a potential food source, I didn't live up to expectations.


Eventually they started to arrive, here is Jim and Ron...


Everything happened all at once, Tom, Royal and Joe were there and signing and talking with the rather good crowd that happened by...


Liz Robbins organizing


Ken got there to make sure everything was going well, here he's listening to Liz


The Bird was in fine form too...

And Tom was his charming self

I didn't get as many images as I wanted as I was also talking with everyone and getting signatures for various projects...

Then it was off to the E. Auditorium with Mimi, scuffy b, and Steve Grossman as well as Ron and Jim... there was a full house on hand.

Here Ken talks to Joe Fitschen before the show

and then it all started to happen...

Great evening. Sorry you all couldn't have been there...
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2010 - 12:22am PT
Great photos Ed. Thank you.

Ken
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 25, 2010 - 01:01am PT
Do Bridwell and Cilley get there glasses at the same place?
TomCochrane

Trad climber
I've lost track...
Oct 25, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
Thanks ever so much, Ken; you pulled off another great one!
CubicleNation

Trad climber
Mtn View, CA
Oct 25, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
Thanks ever so much, Ken; you pulled off another great one!

I second that.

And I thank you, Tom, for your additional comments and insights Saturday evening.
BBWolf

climber
Oct 25, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
Thank you Dean Potter for asking the night's most thoughtful question. I hoped to hear more from the panel.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 26, 2010 - 09:53am PT
Was a wonderful time as said above. These events bring home how lucky we all are to be involved in climbing. The friendships, the sharing of experiences, the great times in the past and the adventures in the future, I appreciate being able to share time with legends, friends, make new friends and realize that my inspirations, motivations, goals and thoughts are shared by many others in this circle! To sit this weekend and just listen to all the stories being told by Bridwell(16 hours in the car up and back!)Hartouni, Cochran, Russell, Bullwinkle, Potter, Kauk, Robbins, Fitschen, Frost, Denny, Skelton, the gorgeous Whitford, Braun(s), Dill, Lober, and everyone else was truely PRICELESS! Had the weather not been rainy, we would have missed this because we would have been climbing!
Hope to post up a few shots later.
Thanks to everyone I saw, listened to and visited with!
Peace
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 26, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
Here's some of the shots from this wonderful weekend. Hope you enjoy.
Peace
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 26, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
Thanks, guys - that's excellent.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 26, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
One of the funny stories I HAVE to recall this weekend. Jim Bridwell who started the search and rescue team in Yosemite was there a couple of weeks ago for a film assignment. After a day of filming and interviewing he decides to take a walk over to Camp 4 and check out his old "home" so to speak. Walking through the camp he comes to the tent cabin confines of the current search and rescue site. As he decides to walk into the boundaries to see how the current state of affairs are and to talk to some of the current "members", no sooner does he cross the "boundary line" into the SAR site, he is confronted by a young blond female who informs Jim that he is "in a private area and must immediately leave the boundary."
Now this is Jim Bridwell, Big Wall Jim, creator of the SAR team being asked to leave the area HE created!!! Jim only said he informed the young blonde in so many words that she should be more tactile in her approach to those that encroach on HER hollowed grounds.
I got a laugh outa that one! Poor old man Jim!
Peace
altieboo

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Oct 27, 2010 - 03:42am PT
I love leaving for the valley at 1pm and getting there just after three. Had it not been raining I could have gotten a lap in. The rain is nice in the valley when you can actually appreciate it.

Here's some images from the day.



Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
What a wonderful celebration despite the rain. I'm sorry I couldn't be there for it. I remember how exciting it was to be on top when the guys came over the edge. The first continuous ascent of the nose was a tremendous achievement. Here are some scans from that day. I've had these little prints for 50 years and wish I knew who took them.
If anyone knows, please let me know.

Enjoy!

Janie Taylor Levy


[photo[photo[photo[photo[photoid=176516]id=176515]id=176514]id=176513]id=176512]
Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
I'm not an expert at uploading photos and here are more,[photoid=176528] not in the order I wished them to be seen.[photoid=176525]




Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:22pm PT
[photoid=176530]
Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:26pm PT
Mimi

climber
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
Thanks Jane! Super photos. Please tell us more. Topping out with a smile is always a joyous time.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2010 - 08:48pm PT
Nice photos! Jane, thank you for adding to the thread. Any chance I could get high resolution copies from you? I would put them with everything else that the Yosemite Climbing Association has collected over the years. I purchased a stock media photo from the summit and perhaps that photographer took them. I will have to look up his name. Frost looks like he doesn't know what to do with that champagne.

Ken
Gene

Social climber
Nov 3, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
Those guys look like they could send it today, well...maybe over five days.

Jane Levy,

Thanks for the wonderful pictures. Perhaps a narrative to go with them.......?

g
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 3, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
I second Gene's request - how about the story of the support team, first waiting and watching in the meadows, then trekking to the summit? There must be a story or two in it!

And excellent photos - TFPU!
john hansen

climber
Nov 3, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
So is Royal hauling the bags the old fashioned way,, hand over hand,, before he invented a better system?
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Nov 3, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
Dang Jane wish you were at the presentation! GREAT shots and from a TOTALLY different prospective. Would love to hear some of your stories from that historical day(s). You NEED to start coming to some of these events.
Peace
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 3, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
Very Nice, Jane! Thanks.
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Nov 3, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
Looks like a good time had by all.

Love you all!

Bruce.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 4, 2010 - 12:35am PT
thanks for the pictures Jane!
wonderful!!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 4, 2010 - 12:46am PT
Jane-

As ekat would say: YAY!

Love the pics; as with a number of photos on this site, it is amazing how time has passed. We were all children once.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Nov 4, 2010 - 01:05am PT
Jane-Priceless! we are all so fortunate you posted those wonderful historic photos of the gang topping out. What a treasure! My best to you.

joe
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 4, 2010 - 02:16am PT
Beautiful, Jane! Thanks for sharing.
Here are all of them in your original order:
Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 4, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
Thanks Clint for cleaning up the photos. I've found some newspaper clippings from those days and have scanned them. You can see that Chuck was over the top first, but after him the order was Royal, Joe, and Tom.

Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 4, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
Gene

Social climber
Nov 4, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
It's interesting that the article calls it the Pratt-Robbins party. Did the team alternate leading and hauling; Chuck and Royal one day, Joe and Tom the next?

I love this stuff Jane. Keep it coming and I'm very happy you are here.

Best,
Gene
Jane Levy

Trad climber
CA
Nov 4, 2010 - 06:19pm PT
I think it was probably the Berkeley Daily Gazette that named it the Pratt/Robbins party because at the time both of them were living in Berkeley and the paper wanted to tout their "local boys". I'm sure you will find the writing in the newspaper articles posted here somewhat sensational. I like the Fresno Bee best because it included quotes by the climbers.

It was all a very long time ago..

Jane



Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 5, 2010 - 03:59am PT
Cool. I especially liked the plug for Chouinard pitons, made by the leader of the support party! (But of course having good gear is important).

And Frost looks like he lost 10 pounds that he didn't really have to spare!

> Did the team alternate leading and hauling; Chuck and Royal one day, Joe and Tom the next?

Yes, pretty much. You can read their original account on the thread:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1207521/The-Nose-Second-Ascent-50th-RR-Pratt-Frost-Fitschen-1960
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 5, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
Jane- Thanks for posting the newspaper clippings!

Royal's SCB account makes their team tactics clear. The exception came when Tom burned himself out prussiking with fifty pound haul sacks in order to allow the team to collectively reach Dolt Tower late at night. That heroic effort was the crux of the climb from Tom's perspective as "the human yo-yo!" He spent the next day recovering rather than leading.
Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic
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