Bill Antel

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healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 30, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
What became of him or does anyone know where he is?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 30, 2010 - 09:11pm PT
The last time I saw Bill Antel, I think, was after he fell and cracked his head on Toe Jam, or the route just right of it.

I heard some commotion up there and was horrified to see a climber hanging upside down with blood streaming well down the slab below his head. This was early 70's. The rescue team took over quickly, and I only saw him briefly (he was conscious, but out of it) before they whisked him away in an ambulance.

Good guy, and a good climber. Did the SA of New Generation at Suicide with him...

I heard a rumor he quit climbing.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
He was apparently up here in Portland for awhile, but then the trail appears to go cold. Stephane would like to chat with him about gear he was involved with designing.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 30, 2010 - 09:22pm PT
He was friends with the Mike Graham / Ricky Accomazzo crew - maybe they can help you find him.

It's been a (long) while though....
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Aug 30, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
Bump for Acapulco Bill.
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Aug 30, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
I can remember very distinctly the last time I saw/spoke with Bill. He was recuperating in a Yosemite Valley Hospital bed. That was the Summer of 1974.

I had spoke to him briefly that morning at the base of a climb that I can no longer remember, believe it was at Reeds(but it could have been by Maple Jam). It was a one or two pitch route that was popular at the time, and notorious for the pile of old rotten slings that were being added to weekly at the last rappel point(a block or tree)about 75-80 ft(I'm estimating)off the deck.

The topic of NEVER trusting a sling that was left for a prior rappel no matter how new, was beiing discussed often back then in light of the number of rappelling accidents/fatalities of recent years. As a matter of fact I believe we discussed the last rap, and mentioned for him to be sure and use a new sling to do so, that very morning before he lead the pitch.

I went off to do something else, and was shocked to hear of the accident. He didn't replace the webbing, and the old slings broke, and he fell so many odd feet to the ground, breaking some vertebrae in his lower back. Evidently he was very lucky to have survived the fall/or lucky that the sling hadn't broken within the first couple feet off the rappel.

Last I heard(late 70's)he had become a Christian and was living in Oregon, and no longer climbing.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 30, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
Last time I saw him was vedauwoo mid 80's with skinner......
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Aug 30, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
Bill was one of the original Stonemasters from So Cal. I new him from climbing at Suicide/Tah. Great guy.

Rick A., et. al. could better answer the particulars.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Aug 30, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
Didn't know him, but he seems to have had a tad bit of bad luck with nasty falls!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Aug 31, 2010 - 12:06am PT
Bill Antel and Acapulco Bill are two different people, I knew both. I climbed with Bill Antel in the mid '70s, he was a good guy.
I was there the day Acapulco took the big one off Guillotine, two different people.
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Aug 31, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
Never heard of or met Acapulco Bill. Did you(dee ee)climb with Bill Antel after his accident?
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Sep 7, 2010 - 08:34am PT
When, in the late nineties, I heard that John Long and Bill Antel teamed up and planned to introduce innovative SLCD’s with the cam lobes made of investment cast chromium alloy, I waited for these new babies with a lot of interest. In the meantime, I compiled all the info, which I found here and there about Long Climbing Gear 4-Cams and 4-Cams.

4-Cams and Bi-Cams &#40;photo Long Climbing Gear brochure&#41;
4-Cams and Bi-Cams (photo Long Climbing Gear brochure)
Credit: nutstory


I am fortunate to have numerous camming devices, some of them quite rare, with the cam lobes made of different materials: magnesium (early Jardine’s prototype Friend and Old -School Valley Giant #12), composite (Salewa prototype “Friend-like” and Coyote Mountain Works Samson), bronze (HB small Micromate and Quadcam), 7075 T6 aluminum alloy (Metolius TCU and FCU) or 6061 T6 aluminum alloy and titanium. It would have been a great privilege to enhance the Nuts Museum with samples of the Bi-Cams and 4-Cams, even at pre-production stage.

I do not know the reasons why these amazing and strong devices never hit the market. Any information and anecdotes about these steel camming units would be of great value for me.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Sep 7, 2010 - 09:50am PT
Stephan, I can't help but remark how like a "Buddy" that "Bi-cam" cam on the right is. Buddy's, as you probably know, came out of Canada and were quite unsuccessful both in practice while climbing and in the market.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
Sep 7, 2010 - 09:59am PT
Canadian Quest Technology Buddie &#40;1982&#41;
Canadian Quest Technology Buddie (1982)
Credit: nutstory
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 7, 2010 - 10:32am PT
i haven't seen a wad of webbing in years--all replaced by modern rap stations, i guess.

i always thought there was safety in numbers.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Sep 7, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
@ Dee ee,
What was the story with Acapulco Bill ?
I always thought that moniker referred to one of Antel's famous whippers.
Just trying to set my fuzzy memory straight.
Thanks,
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Sep 7, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Acapulco Bill took a huge whipper on Insomnia Crack, I think that's where the name started, he also fell on lots of other climbs, always went big. He Died while soloing the Nose, one pitch from the Top. . .
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Sep 7, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
Thanks, Dean. The story I remember was the Insomnia Crack fall.
Jeez, one pitch from the top? Tell me he didn't pitch off?
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 7, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
I believe Acapulco's (not Antel) first biggie was the one on the Guillotine. Legend has (I was there but on the Flower at the time)it that he had time to scream twice and when the rope caught he was actually below the belay ledge at the base. Spencer knows.
Acapulco told me once about soloing the E. Face of Whitney and getting off route. He found himself committed on a 5.9 section and just went for it, just barely scratching through. Dean is right about his final epic.

I think I probably knew Bill Antel from before his "accident." He was robust and healthy at the time (early '70s).
Didn't he do an early and very stormy ascent of the Direct on 1/2 Dome circa 1978? I was there but fuzzy memory.......or was it Goodykoontz?

Dang I'm old!
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
He Died while soloing the Nose, one pitch from the Top...

Anyone know the details? A fall, weather, rockfall...?
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