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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 16, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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"The last pitch of both Sundance and Iron Cross at Suicide were always pretty stout for 10a."
The thing about the last pitch of Sundance (the original pitch up that funky water streak), is that the gear is not all that inspiring. And the climbing isn't that technically hard, it just feels really insecure.
The 'Sundike' finish, however, is outstanding.
As for P1 of New Dimensions. I thought it felt dang challenging. But maybe it was the heat. I think that Stone Groove and Sacherer Cracker are easier. In fact Sacherer Crack may be the first 5.10a I ever led (I can't remember now). But I was surprised at how straightforward it felt.
As for "hard-for-the-grade" climbs....take your pick of practically anything in Vedauwoo.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 16, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Kamp's Crack on Bell Tower in the Black Hills Needles is pretty sandbagged. Sex Never Did This to My Hands 5.8+ is just about as hard.
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Tadalac
climber
Napa, ca
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May 16, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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Definitely reeds direct. D, def, definitely. Definitely.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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Just did the Left Side of Reed's Pinnacle last Friday and as Marty Garrison, Bruce Morris & Largo have mentioned earlier on this thread, it is quite tough for 5.10a. You better have your act together for this route as just getting to the crux pitch is a real workout for a "lowly 5.8".
I took on the first pitch which is a rather intimidating slot that soars up the cliff for 130' to the belay anchor, which is comprised of slings around a chockstone & a funky old piton. There is a hand sized crack that joins the chimney about 50' up that may be the 5.10b variation shown in the Don Reed 1992 guide. Beware, there is a very loose block just as you enter the chimney if you take the crack I just mentioned to the left of the slot. It almost came off in my lap as I pulled into the slot. Yikes!
The crux section was not too bad with modern cams but the moves were tough & very slick. There is an old bolt & couple of fixed pins but you could push #5 & #6 BD cams along with you most of the way. I did it right side in but maybe it is easier left side in. The way I did it, I did more chimneying and stemming than by offwidthing & got rug burns on my lower back & upper glutes.
IMHO - Reeds Leftside is much harder than Chingando, perhaps about as hard as Ahab but easier than Generator Crack. The final OW part of Reeds direct is not even as hard as the left side.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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May 22, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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I remember how mystified I was in 1972 when Luke Freeman so matter-of-factly said, "Anyone can climb 5.10".
It took me a while to realize he was right, we just have to want it.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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May 23, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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every five ten rated five ten in the gunks. especially matinee.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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May 23, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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Levy - Right you are, that left side is hard and much harder than both the final section of the center route on Reeds and Chingando. The bolt before you start the crux is a seriously vintage split shaft through an old arrow.
Ahab though is really next level I thought. It seemed two letters harder than Reeds left......
Steppin out is next for me. I'll report back
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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May 23, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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Steve L and I were in Tuolumne this past weekend. Did a couple of days on Little Sheeba on Lamb Dome. We both got it but it was burl....after the crux comes more hard work, at lead 50 ft of it.
Great climb though. One of the best cracks I've done in awhile. Don't know if it was the hardest of 10a's but sure was fun.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 03:42am PT
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After just doing Hoodwink yesterday I have to agree. There's no friggin way that roof is 10a.
Fairly manageable yet awkward route overall (first pitch is FUN but not indicative of any other pitch on the route) but that roof was the weeds for me. Felt like a V2/3 problem to conquer it clean.
Made me realize I need to start bouldering a lot more to pull moves like that one required.
After that the 10a slab moves off that belay to the 5.7 run out to the top seemed fine to me. But that's what plays to my strengths far more and I was so happy to be back on comfortable ground.
But that roof. Oh geez. What a nightmare. I botched it bad. Got up it eventually, but botched it big time. Burly is an understatement.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 04:09am PT
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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Sep 26, 2012 - 05:18am PT
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bjj I think your talking about a route called "grain surgery" 5.10b R *** in vogel 92 guide John Long route I think.
Aftermath in Jtree was a damn stout one for me
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Sep 26, 2012 - 07:09am PT
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irate life experiences
tutilizing the yosemite decimal system,
this morning i awoke at 11:38 pm yesterday,
and dreamed the entire pacific ocean prior
to standing up.
if i shuffled, i don't remember it,
though i found my way to yesterday's
pot of coffee,
drank a cold cup
and took a shite.
definately a ten eh moment.
i almost fell to hell.
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fosburg
climber
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Sep 26, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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A vote for Hoodwink, it's like stiff V2 pulling that roof!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 26, 2012 - 10:47am PT
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I had a hard time on the off-width section on Mithral. The guides rate the section anywhere from 5.9-10.b but it had me grunting and puffing like a dog with fleas.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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I'm thinking that the hardest 5.10a's are all ahead of me.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Any 5.10 in Indian Creek, right Jim?
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Sep 26, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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The Exorcist in JT. I think if a person is tall (I am only 5.3) maybe its not so difficult!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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Thanks Fos, glad you agree. That thing is insanely stiff.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 26, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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Aftermath is easy, do a lieback move using your knees pasted above the roof.
Taxman is light, 5.8+.
The OW pitch on the Rostrum is pretty good value for 10a.
I always think the crack switch on p2 of Serenity is funky for 10a. Not a hard pull or pumpy, but weird enough that I will never solo the SS linkup.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 26, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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First pitch of Genesis in Eldo.
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