Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 11, 2010 - 09:59am PT
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All finished, the ropes will be shifted to the Snake Dike side Friday morning. Go climb this stuff! I'll state an opinion: Autobahn is the best route there. Fire away, I'll turn this back on in a couple weeks:-)
Roger
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bluering
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 10:00am PT
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Damn! Nice job.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 11, 2010 - 10:16am PT
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Thanks, Roger!
What, no photos?
It's interesting to spend time swinging about on routes, imagining how it went for the first ascent, how it would be to lead it on sight, etc.
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Dr. F.
climber
So Cal
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Aug 11, 2010 - 10:24am PT
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Me and DEE did the second or third ascent of the Autobahn
It was tedious, pitch after pitch of steep dike work
Then the crux was a weird move over a tiny roof that was badly protected
I was impressed with the line, but not the climbing
How it look these days?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 10:39am PT
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Does Autobahn still have one bolt belays or are there now two?
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avid
Trad climber
sacramento, ca
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Aug 11, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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Ooh is snake dike getting rebolted next??
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 11, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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Dueceldike!!!
woot!!!!
Will you have my baby Roger? I think I love you.
hahahaah
nice job brother, thanks a ton o ton o ton
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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See the other thread for some photos and more info:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1214995/Climbing-Snake-Dike-Bring-Roger-Brown-some-water
As mentioned there, a few belays on Autobahn are single bolts plus gear.
In particular, Roger says the belays at (9) and (10) are single bolts backed up with small cams. Belays 2-5 and 7-8 are 2 bolts each. 6, 11 and 12 are shown as all gear.
I think the route more known for single bolt belays (and no gear) is Deuceldike (left of Snake Dike). John Middendorf gave Roger permission [see John's post below for rephrasing] to add second belay bolts on that, so Roger will be placing his own bolts for that.
Snake Dike had its bolts replaced in 1992. Roger might upgrade some of the hangers to double ring hangers, though, because sometimes people bail and leave slings at belays.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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Thanks to Clint and Roger!
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Aug 11, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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Roger...
There better be a decent Trip Report out of this if it's gonna cost what I think it's gonna cost..
Good luck..
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 11, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
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Hi Clint-
Not sure if I actually gave "permission" because I don't believe any one individual, not even the first ascentionists, have any say over what happens to their routes after they do it, but I do believe in consensus, and it's my impression that modern climbers don't place high value on artificial and senseless risk, like one-bolt belays, so I told him that it was good with me!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 11, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Words cannot describe my appreciation for the work that Roger and Clint have done the past few seasons. And yes, I've had the pleasure of clipping some of those new bolts!
Thx, thx, thx.
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coz
Trad climber
California
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Aug 11, 2010 - 04:43pm PT
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Good job, did an early ascent of the Autobahn and loved it. Certainly wasn't as good as the Belle, but cool none the less, great effort replacing it.
I heard the SB bolts are getting scrappy? Still must be better than the 5/16 machine heads we had, yipes!
How about Karma? Some new bolts could inspire some crazed humans to go up there.
I think the one bolt belays need another bolt although I've never done the route I remember JM and CC boosting about it and thinking they'd lost their minds!
Anyway fine effort thank you!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 09:26pm PT
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John,
> Not sure if I actually gave "permission" because I don't believe any one individual, not even the first ascentionists, have any say over what happens to their routes after they do it, but I do believe in consensus, ...
OK, cool - sorry about the misquote.
I also agree it's best if first ascentionists do not have lifetime rights to change a route anytime. More like a "statute of limitations" - after a certain number of ascents, it's a shared experience by many and shouldn't be modified like adding bolts, unless there's a good reason or something changed on the route.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 11, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
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Great job, thanks for the effort! I did Autobahn in the early 90's and it was a fine adventure even then - glad to hear it's bolts have finally been upgraded. Cheers!
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Aug 11, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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Wow. That is a lot of effort. Thanks.
When I did Snake Dike the only time was a Moonlight Ascent. I missed about half of the bolts.
The hard mans way to work on a tan.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 12, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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Thank you for the hard work.
Speechless as to the effort.
Mucci
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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