Autobahn, The Fast Lane and Dreamscape.

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 28 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 11, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
All finished, the ropes will be shifted to the Snake Dike side Friday morning. Go climb this stuff! I'll state an opinion: Autobahn is the best route there. Fire away, I'll turn this back on in a couple weeks:-)
Roger
bluering

Trad climber
CA
Aug 11, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
Damn! Nice job.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 11, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
Thanks, Roger!

What, no photos?

It's interesting to spend time swinging about on routes, imagining how it went for the first ascent, how it would be to lead it on sight, etc.
Dr. F.

climber
So Cal
Aug 11, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
Me and DEE did the second or third ascent of the Autobahn

It was tedious, pitch after pitch of steep dike work

Then the crux was a weird move over a tiny roof that was badly protected

I was impressed with the line, but not the climbing

How it look these days?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Aug 11, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
Does Autobahn still have one bolt belays or are there now two?
avid

Trad climber
sacramento, ca
Aug 11, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
Ooh is snake dike getting rebolted next??
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 11, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
Dueceldike!!!

woot!!!!

Will you have my baby Roger? I think I love you.


hahahaah

nice job brother, thanks a ton o ton o ton
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 11, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
See the other thread for some photos and more info:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1214995/Climbing-Snake-Dike-Bring-Roger-Brown-some-water

As mentioned there, a few belays on Autobahn are single bolts plus gear.
In particular, Roger says the belays at (9) and (10) are single bolts backed up with small cams. Belays 2-5 and 7-8 are 2 bolts each. 6, 11 and 12 are shown as all gear.

I think the route more known for single bolt belays (and no gear) is Deuceldike (left of Snake Dike). John Middendorf gave Roger permission [see John's post below for rephrasing] to add second belay bolts on that, so Roger will be placing his own bolts for that.

Snake Dike had its bolts replaced in 1992. Roger might upgrade some of the hangers to double ring hangers, though, because sometimes people bail and leave slings at belays.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Aug 11, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
Thanks to Clint and Roger!
Jingy

Social climber
Nowhere
Aug 11, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
Roger...

There better be a decent Trip Report out of this if it's gonna cost what I think it's gonna cost..

Good luck..
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Aug 11, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
Hi Clint-

Not sure if I actually gave "permission" because I don't believe any one individual, not even the first ascentionists, have any say over what happens to their routes after they do it, but I do believe in consensus, and it's my impression that modern climbers don't place high value on artificial and senseless risk, like one-bolt belays, so I told him that it was good with me!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 11, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
Words cannot describe my appreciation for the work that Roger and Clint have done the past few seasons. And yes, I've had the pleasure of clipping some of those new bolts!

Thx, thx, thx.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Aug 11, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
Hey Coz--check out this link with your mug:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1239228/old-Yosemite-news-clips
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 11, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
And now for a krafty musical interlude: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5c81X6BiI0Y
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 12, 2010 - 12:26am PT
John,

> Not sure if I actually gave "permission" because I don't believe any one individual, not even the first ascentionists, have any say over what happens to their routes after they do it, but I do believe in consensus, ...

OK, cool - sorry about the misquote.
I also agree it's best if first ascentionists do not have lifetime rights to change a route anytime. More like a "statute of limitations" - after a certain number of ascents, it's a shared experience by many and shouldn't be modified like adding bolts, unless there's a good reason or something changed on the route.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Aug 12, 2010 - 12:32am PT
Great job, thanks for the effort! I did Autobahn in the early 90's and it was a fine adventure even then - glad to hear it's bolts have finally been upgraded. Cheers!
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Aug 12, 2010 - 02:42am PT
Wow. That is a lot of effort. Thanks.

When I did Snake Dike the only time was a Moonlight Ascent. I missed about half of the bolts.

The hard mans way to work on a tan.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 12, 2010 - 03:21am PT
Thank you for the hard work.

Speechless as to the effort.

Mucci
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 12, 2010 - 04:18am PT
Snake Dike approach, Snake Dike, Autobahn
Snake Dike approach, Snake Dike, Autobahn
Credit: cropped from original on summitpost.org, overlay by cc
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Aug 14, 2010 - 07:51am PT
Roger,
Thanks for all your work up there, certainly
a tremendous effort and dedication to spend all
that time by your self, working hard to keep
the safety margin up.
I'm still in Chamonix, but back home soon,
dinner is on me at the Mountain Room as
a thanks for all your efforts (Carol to if she is
around)

Doug
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