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| Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic |
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 11, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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All finished, the ropes will be shifted to the Snake Dike side Friday morning. Go climb this stuff! I'll state an opinion: Autobahn is the best route there. Fire away, I'll turn this back on in a couple weeks:-)
Roger
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bluering
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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Damn! Nice job.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 11, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
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Thanks, Roger!
What, no photos?
It's interesting to spend time swinging about on routes, imagining how it went for the first ascent, how it would be to lead it on sight, etc.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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Does Autobahn still have one bolt belays or are there now two?
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avid
Trad climber
sacramento, ca
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Aug 11, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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Ooh is snake dike getting rebolted next??
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 11, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
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Dueceldike!!!
woot!!!!
Will you have my baby Roger? I think I love you.
hahahaah
nice job brother, thanks a ton o ton o ton
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
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See the other thread for some photos and more info:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1214995/Climbing-Snake-Dike-Bring-Roger-Brown-some-water
As mentioned there, a few belays on Autobahn are single bolts plus gear.
In particular, Roger says the belays at (9) and (10) are single bolts backed up with small cams. Belays 2-5 and 7-8 are 2 bolts each. 6, 11 and 12 are shown as all gear.
I think the route more known for single bolt belays (and no gear) is Deuceldike (left of Snake Dike). John Middendorf gave Roger permission [see John's post below for rephrasing] to add second belay bolts on that, so Roger will be placing his own bolts for that.
Snake Dike had its bolts replaced in 1992. Roger might upgrade some of the hangers to double ring hangers, though, because sometimes people bail and leave slings at belays.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 11, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
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Thanks to Clint and Roger!
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Aug 11, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
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Roger...
There better be a decent Trip Report out of this if it's gonna cost what I think it's gonna cost..
Good luck..
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 11, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
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Hi Clint-
Not sure if I actually gave "permission" because I don't believe any one individual, not even the first ascentionists, have any say over what happens to their routes after they do it, but I do believe in consensus, and it's my impression that modern climbers don't place high value on artificial and senseless risk, like one-bolt belays, so I told him that it was good with me!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 11, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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Words cannot describe my appreciation for the work that Roger and Clint have done the past few seasons. And yes, I've had the pleasure of clipping some of those new bolts!
Thx, thx, thx.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 12:26am PT
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John,
> Not sure if I actually gave "permission" because I don't believe any one individual, not even the first ascentionists, have any say over what happens to their routes after they do it, but I do believe in consensus, ...
OK, cool - sorry about the misquote.
I also agree it's best if first ascentionists do not have lifetime rights to change a route anytime. More like a "statute of limitations" - after a certain number of ascents, it's a shared experience by many and shouldn't be modified like adding bolts, unless there's a good reason or something changed on the route.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 12, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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Great job, thanks for the effort! I did Autobahn in the early 90's and it was a fine adventure even then - glad to hear it's bolts have finally been upgraded. Cheers!
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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Aug 12, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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Wow. That is a lot of effort. Thanks.
When I did Snake Dike the only time was a Moonlight Ascent. I missed about half of the bolts.
The hard mans way to work on a tan.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 12, 2010 - 03:21am PT
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Thank you for the hard work.
Speechless as to the effort.
Mucci
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 12, 2010 - 04:18am PT
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 07:51am PT
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Roger,
Thanks for all your work up there, certainly
a tremendous effort and dedication to spend all
that time by your self, working hard to keep
the safety margin up.
I'm still in Chamonix, but back home soon,
dinner is on me at the Mountain Room as
a thanks for all your efforts (Carol to if she is
around)
Doug
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 08:16am PT
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Thanks, Roger and Clint, for all of your efforts.
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 22, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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The parallel diagonal dikes of The Fast Lane and Autobahn are nicely visible in this photo from a Snake Dike trip report (October 2009).
Thanks to Roger for taking on such a huge project (2 months and a lot of work).
Nobody else was jockeying to do this, and from what I heard, the bolts on Autobahn have been in need of replacement for awhile.
Not to mention all those other routes he fixed up in the vicinity.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 22, 2010 - 08:59pm PT
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Thanks Roger. I sense you have had a really special experience up there--- two months... write about it sometime!!
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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As it turned out there was no second bolt added to those three 'The Deuceldike' single bolt anchors. It and 'Dome Polishers' had a total of 12 bolts/hangers to replace counting those three to be added and I just didn't feel I could get the job done so I called it over. It was a good run and I am satisfied with what we were able to get accomplished this season. Adding those bolts would have been a first in all my bolt replacements and it has been on my mind a lot lately. Just last week I refused to add bolts to another route in the area. The rope work and lack water were the major issues involved this time making the hammer work seem no big deal. Without a doubt it was a great adventure. I had experiences I will remember forever. The south side of Half Dome is a special place and I spent some very special time up there. A couple cop-outs: I installed two rappel stations between the access ledge at the base of Dreamscape/ The Fast Lane/ Autobahn and the trail below. I used mine and Clints hangers, rap rings and screw links. I didn't ask Clint or anyone, I just did it. 180'+- between stations from the 1st pitch anchors of any route. Right down the open areas clear of any of that loose rock up there, and there was no problems when I removed my fixed ropes from up there. And on 'The Snake Dike' I replaced that Rap anchor with the green webbing that you folks that bailed were pulling your ropes thru for the last two months with ASCA double ring hangers. The bolts were 3/8" It just needed something solid to pull the ropes thru. Oh yeah, that big pile of stuff I have stockpiled at the LYV ranger station? It is all being brought down for me and I can pick it up in the Valley Wednesday. Life is good,
Roger Brown
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 15, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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Here are some more photos of the replacement project, from Roger's collection.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Feb 15, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
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You guys are amazing. If I have the pleasure to cross-paths, let me buy you a beer.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 15, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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Super Effort!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Feb 15, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
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cool-
When I led that crux pitch on the Autobahn on the first ascent, placing that bolt on stance was definitely one of the hardest on-lead stances ever (for me)--with only the most marginal single foothold just over the lip of the roof, with the other foot just dangling, and only a tiny finger divot about waist high to occasionally rebalance during the placement of the bolt (I recall getting a few hits, then having to slowly lower the hammer and drill, reposition slightly, then slowly get the hammer and drill back up, get a few hits in, repeat--took at least 1/2 hour to get that bolt in that way).
I think it was just a 1 1/4" Rawl buttonhead--good job replacing it.
I don't recall being able to get anything under the roof (you show a green Alien in your photo)--of course, that was before most of the small camming devices were available. It would have been a big and bad whipper coming off over the roof.
Walt actually gave me a lot of grief about the high placement of that bolt--but as we placed all bolts on stance (no hooks) in those days, there was no other way to protect that pitch. Walt suggested leaving a long sling on it so people could protect the move over the lip--but does the green Alien inspire confidence instead?
In any case, cheers!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Knew that Clint and Roger were incredible, but I had no idea about this effort.
Wow!
Great bump, Rollover
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Pretty dihedral.
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