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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Red Dihedral
Dana Pillar
Startrekkin (soooooooooooooo sweet and relatively unclimbed)
Venutian Blind
E Butt Whitney (in a day is much more fun)
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Milktoast Chimney on S, Face Lone Pine Peak. (note: photos show the wrong location in Moynier, the route is further up canyon)
Zigzag Dihedral on S. Face Lone Pine Peak.
Twin Cracks on E. Face of the Turret
Twilight Pillar on Clyde Peak
Piper at the Gates of Dawn on Starlight Peak
Great Book on Mt. Whitney
Direct Southwest Buttress Mt. Russell
East Face Middle Palisade
Southeast Buttress North Palisade
Hechtel Route on Columbia Finger
North Peak, couloirs.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Here are some notes on a Sierra 5.10 that I thought was full value - The Edge of Time Arete on the Citidel:
On Saturday, Peter Coward and I climbed the “Edge of Time Arete”, IV, 5.10 on The Citadal in the High Sierra. The most noteworthy aspect of this climb is its 16 mile approach, which unfortunately translates to a 16 mile hike back to the car once you’ve completed the climb.
Peter and I drove out Friday night stopping in Livermore to buy a new harness after I realized I forgot mine at home. We got to the trailhead outside of Bishop at around midnight and enjoyed a three hour snooze waking at 3:15 am to get the coffee going. The 16 mile approach is incredible with lots of great scenery and spectacular views into LeConte Canyon, Langille Peak, and our objective The Citadel. Somewhere along the way I realized I forgot a significant portion of our food supplies. We did the approach in about 6 hours, the crux being the final bushwack up 2,000 feet to the base of the route. Despite some difficulties negotiating the snow and ice guarding the start of the route, we began climbing at 11:30 am. To avoid the bergschrund, we added the 2 pitch indirect start (5.4 X) that traverses into the climb above the snow.
The climb went smoothly with lots of variety making our way up the amazing NE Arete. We topped out around 5:40 after 6 hours of climbing. The descent is not for the faint of heart and involved complex, somewhat psycho, downclimbing, on steep loose shattered rock, with insane exposure. Now that we’re done it, I highly recommend the route for the descent alone.
With the climb and descent under our belts it was only a matter of finding our cached pack, fording the Middle Fork of the Kings River, hiking the 7 or 8 miles up 3,500 feet to Bishop Pass and descending 5 miles to the car. We started our return hike fairly strongly, grinding up about 2,000 feet in about an hour and a half. But at around 11 pm, we hit the wall. Maybe it was all that lunch food I forgot to pack. We carried on at a pathetic pace to Bishop Pass. Between hallucinations, I would turn off my headlamp and enjoy the stars and the ¾ moon lighting up the miles of exposed rock. We got to the pass and continued each in his own zombie-like fashion to the car; the final 2 miles being particularly brutal, yet somehow satisfying. The car to car time was 23.5 hours. After a 2 hours of sleep, we began our drive home.
Final tally:
650 miles and 14 hours driving
32 miles of hiking, bushwacking
13 pitches of climbing
8,660 feet of elevation gain
14 Powerbars
6 Powergels
 Peanutbutter and jelly sandwiches
1 bear sighting
2 llama sightings
many deer
and a partridge in a pear tree!
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Norman Clydesdale
climber
Mule capital of the world
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Greg Murphy-You need to read the initial post.
Bob is looking for a memorable backcountry experience with a nice hike and a good backcountry vibe. I got the impression he was looking for something off the beaten path.
While it sounds like you enjoyed your day trip to the mountains, Where was the adventure? Where was the commitment? 24 hours does not a backcountry experience make.
Now that the word is out on this trailside crag and the lack of commitment reqquired for the route, future ascentionists are sure to find themselves standing in line.
Looks like it will be a toss up between Pinnacles, the Valley, Tahoe, or LeConte Canyon for day trips for the Nor Cal set.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag - It's the gift that keeps on giving - opps you've already done it.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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I know this sounds self serving but the Northeast Face of the Southeast Tooth of the Three Teeth - Sawtooth Ridge is a goody. Long Name ( we called it Zigzag Direct ) but five quality 5.10 pitches,bitchen summit and adventuresome descent with sinle rope raps make for a nice day.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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SM - FA with Bruce Runnals,87'
You must be thinking of the other Al - Bartlett
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