Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2005 - 09:04pm PT
|
I agree with you can'tsay. The approach to Knucklebuster is not necessarily scary, but it is certianly memorable. As much so as the perfect 5.11 spliter that Knucklebuster is.
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2005 - 09:54pm PT
|
aldude said:
> N.W. face Clouds Rest
Are you talking about coming from the Valley or Tuolumne? It's not all that bad coming from above, I think.
I didn't like the approach to Arrowhead Arete. There is one spot where you stop traversing and head up into a big huge chimney. You're rounding a corner with no handholds, and steep sandy ground. If you blow it, it's a 200' drop. I actually called it off then & there.
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2005 - 01:17am PT
|
Valley of course - see title. But your right to come in from above is quite willow.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2005 - 01:34am PT
|
Things generally don't get too far out of hand until I get lost.
Worst "lost" approaches:
Tried to approach Yosemite Point Buttress the wrong way once. Got stuck ascending all the way up West Arrowhead Chimney to the rim cause it was too sketchy to go down. We actually sat down and said formal prayers for our survival.
Chouinard-Herbert approach sucks when you get lost at the end.
The Descent from North Dome is pure torture if you try to hug the dome on the way down. Big, big mistakes.
The Descent from Sentinel is really, really, really bad if you go wrong, particularly in the dark. If you get the descent right, it only sucks a lot.
Peace
Karl
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2005 - 02:33am PT
|
I hate not knowing an approach... so what I usually do is take advantage of bad weather days to scope out approaches to climbs I want to do. The guidebooks usually have all sorts of abbreviated opinions on how to get to the base of a climb. As Werner said, you have to use your own sense to get there... and not worry too much about what is written. Frequently that information is out of date (trails change, trees come and go, bushes too) and the ability to fit the particular setting to what is in the book is almost as amazing as how wrong that fit can be occasionally.
Anyway, in order not to be scared I usually reherse the approaches without the pressure of getting up on a climb that day.
In the Valley, you've go to be ready to hang your ass out on a lot of the approaches where the technical ground is "easy" but the consequence of a mental lapse is serious.
Lots of places where I have roped up when the book said "fourth class", the approach to "Wise Crack" was one such place... the "Absolutely Free" area is another fun approach, especially in the spring when everything is wet.
There are other dramatic approaches, but scary is in the mind of the approacher...
|
|
ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2005 - 12:58pm PT
|
The approach to Middle Brothers South Face via Michaels Ledge. Hidiously exposed and loose.The part between lower and middle we call "The Ledges of Horror". 1500ft. strait down, old ratty ropes and tiny ledges and it's all loose!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!