Nuts To You- Royal Robbins Clean Climbing Intro Summit 1967

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Messages 81 - 92 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Stevethefolkie

Trad climber
Abbottstown, PA
Mar 18, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Geiger said "rather than descend in our EB's." - you're from where I am - remember "liveys direct" (Livesey (spelling approximate) Rock in Philly) - worst probability was falling onto the broken beer bottles that littered the ground below the overhang - or Ralph Stover St. Park along the Delaware? Took my worst and most memorable winger ever there in 1975 ....

Cheers

Steve
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 18, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Steve...i did my first real climb at Ralph Stover in 1966, the year after i got out of the army. Was there a climb there called Gorilla Overhang?
Carmel Climber

Mountain climber
Carmel California
Mar 18, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
I don't know if anybody remembers this...But when Chouinard first offered nuts for sale in one of his catalogues, I bought a few. Since there was no picture of these things in the catalogue or their use I had no idea how to place them. I put a sling through the hole and started pounding them into the rock like a piton. "This can't right, these things can't hold anything," I said to myself, and left them at home. It was only until the next catalogue did Chouinard demonstrate how to use them, jamming not pounding. Did anyone else figure these things out before I did?
Stevethefolkie

Trad climber
Abbottstown, PA
Mar 18, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
Donini - not sure about the climb name - started climbing at RS in the mid to late 1970's - winger came from a "porta-hold" 20' above my last pro (an RP hammered into a crack) - it gave - the nut below gave - a bolt held - I ended up looking my belayer in the face (upside down) with dirt in my hair ... pretty sure his name was Pete Barnes - good guy. Memories ... it is funny - the older I get the better I was ...

Cheers

Steve
Redwood

Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
I remember both of these articles, and especially the phrase "Nuts to you." And I remember the early nuts; they looked exotic, one might almost say clever, but they were hard to place, and they had a tendency to fall out.

Credit: Redwood
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
That RR Nut article was SERIOUSLY COOL!

Thanks for posting that Steve!
michaelc

Trad climber
Sydney Oz
Mar 19, 2013 - 01:06am PT
I wrote this article some time ago about MoAcs if anyone is interested

http://www.climbingaustralia.com.au/2011/05/01/the-positive-dialectics-of-moac-play/

It's not pimping the website - I just thought that you guys might be interested

Michaelc
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 10:30am PT
Michaelc- Nice bit of nostalgia.

Thanks!
mariaji

Social climber
Tucson, AZ
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Marvelous writing RGold!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 28, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Bump!

Jump (for Joy)!

Credit: mouse from merced
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
With Royal's love of puns, I think it was Nutcracker Sweet briefly before becoming the everlovin' Nutcracker. I bet Roper couldn't quite get behind it either.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 29, 2013 - 09:27am PT
I believe that I still have got enough room on the shelves of the Nuts Museum for a couple of amazing Apple Chocks...
Please McHale's Navy, forgive this little joke.
The Book!
The Book!
Credit: nutstory
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