Nuts To You- Royal Robbins Clean Climbing Intro Summit 1967

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Carmel Climber

Mountain climber
Carmel California
Mar 18, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
I don't know if anybody remembers this...But when Chouinard first offered nuts for sale in one of his catalogues, I bought a few. Since there was no picture of these things in the catalogue or their use I had no idea how to place them. I put a sling through the hole and started pounding them into the rock like a piton. "This can't right, these things can't hold anything," I said to myself, and left them at home. It was only until the next catalogue did Chouinard demonstrate how to use them, jamming not pounding. Did anyone else figure these things out before I did?
Stevethefolkie

Trad climber
Abbottstown, PA
Mar 18, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
Donini - not sure about the climb name - started climbing at RS in the mid to late 1970's - winger came from a "porta-hold" 20' above my last pro (an RP hammered into a crack) - it gave - the nut below gave - a bolt held - I ended up looking my belayer in the face (upside down) with dirt in my hair ... pretty sure his name was Pete Barnes - good guy. Memories ... it is funny - the older I get the better I was ...

Cheers

Steve
Redwood

Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
I remember both of these articles, and especially the phrase "Nuts to you." And I remember the early nuts; they looked exotic, one might almost say clever, but they were hard to place, and they had a tendency to fall out.

Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
That RR Nut article was SERIOUSLY COOL!

Thanks for posting that Steve!
michaelc

Trad climber
Sydney Oz
Mar 19, 2013 - 01:06am PT
I wrote this article some time ago about MoAcs if anyone is interested

http://www.climbingaustralia.com.au/2011/05/01/the-positive-dialectics-of-moac-play/

It's not pimping the website - I just thought that you guys might be interested

Michaelc
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 10:30am PT
Michaelc- Nice bit of nostalgia.

Thanks!
mariaji

Social climber
Tucson, AZ
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Marvelous writing RGold!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 28, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Bump!

Jump (for Joy)!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
With Royal's love of puns, I think it was Nutcracker Sweet briefly before becoming the everlovin' Nutcracker. I bet Roper couldn't quite get behind it either.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 29, 2013 - 09:27am PT
I believe that I still have got enough room on the shelves of the Nuts Museum for a couple of amazing Apple Chocks...
Please McHale's Navy, forgive this little joke.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
I give thanks for Royal Robbins.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 8, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
Two birds with one chockstone?


Robbins and Jay Timbrel/LostInShanghai in Modesto at a screening of Valley Uprising in October, 2014.

It was a great night despite Jay's getting slightly Lost In Modesto.


Royal Robbins at 79 years.


Liz Robbins signing for Royal, joined by their son Damon.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 12:10pm PT
Bump for the love of a good nut!
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 31, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
I would be interested to hear stories of climbers who took long, severe whoppers and were held by nuts as opposed to pitons, etc. Or at least some good falls where the nuts held.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
Holiday mixed nuts bump...
Tamara Robbins

climber
not a climber, just related...
Jan 7, 2017 - 05:48pm PT
I have a folder in Moab titled (by dad), "Nuts to you!" - when i get back there I will look for it and add anything worthy to this thread ;)

If it hasn't shown up by March please someone remind me .....

Cheers ;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
Bump for Royal's enduring love of Nutcraft...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2017 - 07:44am PT
Bump for Royal stories...Royal repeating Joe Brown routes with the same number of protection points is a really interesting glimpse at one master climber measuring himself out of curiosity and respect with another. So very Royal...
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 13, 2017 - 08:20am PT
Here's a Royal story published in Summit Magazine in Oct. 1972, on how great nuts work in Sierra granite.






Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2018 - 09:47am PT
Thanks for posting that Fritz!
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