Best Alpine Rock Buttress in America- Elephants Perch or Inc

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Messages 81 - 85 of total 85 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jun 2, 2015 - 10:10pm PT
Thinking about Elephant's Perch the third week in July. Thoughts?
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jun 3, 2015 - 04:15am PT
I could recommend the "Golden Dihedral Route" on Ambush Peak, in the Wind River Range as a contender. It was absolutely clean, and free of loose rock on the 1st ascent, back in 1972, (don't escape right on the final pitches).
Jim Donini and I did "No Picnic for Old Men", to the left, which is more chossy, but harder, 5.10D.

All the pitches on the "Golden Dihedral", are stellar- about 12 piches-5.9+

There are 16 pitch routes on the main face of Ambush Peak.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jun 3, 2015 - 05:51am PT
12! pitches of 5.9+ in the Winds!! Pretty nice, but that shot of SE Face of Bugaboo Spire Fritz put up; I can't get that one out of my mind. Looks something special.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 06:56am PT
Nice shot of the Cobra Pillar!
Steve.....Ambush Peak is great, thanks for getting me there.
Mid- July should be good for the Perch.....there will be some mosquitos.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jun 3, 2015 - 07:11am PT
Jim,

I regret not doing the Golden Dihedral Route with you. It is easier than the route we did, but no decomposed rock, up high, and an incredible finish, which the "young" Charlie Fowler led, around 1976, I think.
I ought to remember the date, since it was on my "honeymoon". My memory for dates su---ck!

skcreidc:

Only about 1/2 are 5.9, and the rest are easier. On the 1st ascent, there was no snow at the base, and we made a direct start up the lower slabs, which added more spice.
Messages 81 - 85 of total 85 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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