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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Hey woodworkers, I've got a question.
My SO and I want to build a bed for her place. She wants a four poster, and I want to see either curly maple or curly birch for the headboard, with a little bit of scroolwork.
I've got most tools, and am beginning to set up a useable shop in the barn. The only thing I'm lacking is a lathe, and I've got access to one.
While I'm a decent carpenter, I'm no woodworker.
My question regards joinery. Is there any preferred style for beds? And, what are your thoughts on a bed with the above mentioned species for a headboard and a different (cheaper) species for the frame? I'd guess that the posts should match the headboard, which is doable. I've sourced materials and while they're not cheap, they're around.
Additionally, the headboard would need to be joined to create one usable slab, biscuits? Will that hold up to long term use?
If anyone wants to give pointers to a hopeful woodworker I'd be most stoked.
Thanks,
Brandon-
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Brandon, I would advise you to use knock-down bed hardware unless she never
plans on moving. There are berry strong and totally invisible sets available.
Hafele has good ones if you can decipher their website and I imagine Rockler
has decent if expensive ones. There are also a number of small companies
that produce very nice turned posts. You could make a really nice square
tapered post with just yer table saw and stick a bought googledeegaw/finial
on top. Lots of googledeegaws available.
http://www.adamswoodproducts.com/
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Reilly, I like the idea of a tapered post with a chamfered edge and a finial on top. Big timesaver. As far as the joinery goes, it's something I want to learn. You do make a very strong point with hardware though, as her place is a rental. Thanks!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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B, when I say knockdown I only mean the side pieces would be loose. I would
still use mortise and tenon for the headboard and footboard units. You can
do that with an auger and yer chisel and some tapered pegs.
ps
And I only say tapered pegs because it would be in Vermont where you might
get run out of town if you didn't. The glued mortise and tenon joint doesn't
need the pegs for strength. They're just for show. ;-)
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Cool, that makes sense. Any ideas on joining material for the headboard? I could use a veneered ply, but I really would like to use the real deal. Grain won't match, that might look ugly. I'm still in the planning and preparation stages. I like to cover the six P's before embarking on a project. Especially one that's out of my comfort range.
Edit; I have many friends who are accomplished timberframers, maybe a true M&T joint would be in order. My buddy has a chain mortiser, but that seems like it would be way too large for this project. So, super small mortises and tenons along the joint, akin to a dovetail?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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This is really a great thread.
Thanks for showing & talking about all the great work.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Ok, one more question for now. To build a frame for a bed that only needs a single mortise joint and some glue, what dimensions for material are we talking about?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Any ideas on joining material for the headboard?
Not quite sure what you mean but I would only use real wood, knott plywood.
You can make a quick but accurate jig to rout yer tenons. The challenge
will be the mortises. Dead simple if you want to invest in a cheap drill
press though or you can come borrow my mortiser. ;-) Obviously you need to
practice for the mortises but you gotta be sure the practice pieces and the
finish pieces are exactly the same thickness. (Don't be offended) You can
hog off the majority with even a skilsaw before you rout off the last 1/8".
I would advise you not to try and make the router cut exact - I would hand
plane to fit. Remember - snug but knott too tight.
ps
Didn't see yer post on dimensions. For visual appeal I would make my posts
a good 2-1/2" to 3" at the base before the taper starts. The cross pieces
I would go with 6/4 although 5/4 would be OK as long as the tenon is 3/4".
I would certainly have two cross pieces at the head. One at the foot is good
enough although I would be inclined to use two.
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Pajamas
climber
Wilderness, Home
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My platform gher up in the mtns. Home sweet home.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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I bought a cast bronze sword and added a scale tang grip.
Bronze sword is a replica of a Greek Mycenaean G2b sword that was cast in the U.K. by replica sword maker Neil Burridge.
Grip scale tangs are made from wooly mammoth ivory from Siberia.
Pommel scales are made from olive wood burl from Israel.
The original cast bronze sword before I added the scale tang grips.
The completed sword with the wooly mammoth ivory and olve wood scale grips.
Weapon in hand.
The completed scabbard
I sliced my thumb wide open on the sword's edge while I was making a scabbard, so the sword has been christened with blood. (:
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Dude, that is Bilbo's Sting! Pretty cool handiwork. I'm guessing mammoth ivory is not a cheap commodity?
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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A little OT, but the calories burned during a day of framing somehow negate the energy I had for the bed project I'm undertaking. Until this weekend, bed project!
Also, the frame I'm working on is on the strangest looking home I've laid eyes upon. Clear story up to a tower with a hip and teeny deck at the 3.5 story level. Strange building, to say the least.
More building stories, please. Seeing what everyone else builds is so great to watch unfold, and builds the stoke!
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Brandon, Reilly has given you good beta on the bed. Tapered pencil post with mortise & tenon head and foot boards and knock down bed hardware on the side rails is a good intro project for bed making. Try Rockler or Woodcraft for the KD hardware.
I bet the local sawmills have flame birch or curly maple, just make sure it's dry. If you want a reliable source for both check out Northland Wood Products in Kingston.
http://www.northlandforest.com/retail-hardwoods-kingston.html
As for me, I spent the day scribing.
Anyone with a basic knowledge of geometry can see the special challenges involved. The goal was to shoot for a fairly consistent 1/8" gap; the beetle kill T&G boards will get clear coated, then the gap will be caulked prior to painting the logs with a semi-solid stain. A nice challenge, and I was able to finish about 100 lineal feet today. Total elevation change (up ladder, down ladder, repeat): about equal to Valley floor to Boot flake.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Nice work Edge and good to see you on a ladder,cheers!
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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I'm making a Flintstones beer table.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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A small addition on a crazy looking building.
The roof system should be fun, there will be a hip running from the inside corner on the existing to the outside corner on the addition. The pitches will mirror the two that are visible on the left and right of the existing. I'm pretty sure that I've never hipped a roof with two different pitches. Looking forward to that tomorrow.
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