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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
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Sep 11, 2013 - 08:38am PT
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I'm bumping this again so some East Coast morning sippers can look for Rick today. Possible rumor he is located on the Southern Seaboard.
Rick is mason by trade by the way, somewhat itinerate, matching his climbing and motocross lifestyle perhaps. Thanks again all.
Tall, freckled, tough inside and out, kind hearted, but you didn't hear it from me.
MUST FIND RICK PIGGOTT! had to shout - east coast is a long ways away. Txks All, Bruce
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Sep 18, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
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bump
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 10, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
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Bump for Piggot stories
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 10, 2015 - 01:38pm PT
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Some friends have been working a roof crack in valley center. Turns out it was some piggot 5.12 from the 80's. Dude was hard...
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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I'm glad to see this thread get bumped after so long.
Rick was/is one of those larger than life kinda guy.
One of those you wouldn't hear about unless you talked
to the locals. I have a few stories to share when I get
a bit more time.
Is he in the Reno area ? racing moto-x ?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 10, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
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Is that Valley Center roof crack kinda wide? Pretty close to horizontal? He showed me a fatty out there back in the mid-80's.
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Dec 10, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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Spring, 1994. I'm visiting the valley on a quick two week trip from my home in KY. It's been a few years since I called The Valley home but I've been sport climbing a bunch and it's not been that long... I'm having a good trip managing a lap up the Nabisco on the first day. 2nd day I got to rest since my feet are bruised from climbing in Ninjas. They made butterballs feel 10+ though.
I run into Piggott in the parking lot. He's bigger than I remembered from the hand full of times that I climbed with him and Lydia in Josh. By bigger I don't mean fat, I mean he's huge! Tall, strong, big mits, which at the moment are taped to the hilt. He looks pissed too! "Those f*#king Germans! They've stood me up again!"
I listen as he vents about blown plans to climb the Rostrum and finish with an onsite attempt on the Alien finish. I'm taking a rest day but my partner wants to take pictures so I offer to belay him on whatever short routes he wants to do if Manley can take pics. Piggott calms down and agrees.
The three of us jump into Piggott's immaculate work truck. This is a dude who takes care of his tools and it's apparent because his truck is cherry. He warns Manley and I not to track dirt into the cabin and that harnesses are verboten since they might f*#k up the upholstery. I understand Piggott's foibles and even sympathize. He's worked hard for everything he owns and he takes care of his stuff.
Piggott rages down valley toward the separate reality pull off where his is going to warm up and then we'll hike down to the Rostrum so he can huck laps on the Regular North Face finishing pitch. This way he can get his workout in and save the Alien for the onsite.
Rick makes short work of Separate. Manley gets some nice pictures however in all the excitement forgets to jettison the harness for the ride over to the summit of The Rostrum. Piggott rips into him like he was his teenage son and had just got caught ripping bongs. I laugh having seen Piggott's rage coming.
At the notch below the little pitch leading to the summit of the Rostrum I balk at soloing the pitch and call for a top rope from Piggott, now on the summit waiting impatiently. I can hear him cursing and calling me names (wanker and pussy were among some of the more colorful ones). As I step up to the crux first move out of the notch Manley's rope which is coiled atop my pack takes leave and falls the 900 feet to the base of the pillar.
I get to the summit and break the bad news that I have dropped the rope. "F*#khead! Go get it!!" I explain that it's not in the notch but rather at the base and thank God it's not Rick's rope but rather my partner Manley's.
Piggott takes pity on me and proceeds to wear himself out on that top pitch while I belay and Manley get's more pictures.
Good Times!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 10, 2015 - 04:14pm PT
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BVB, I was slightly disappointed that you didn't respond to my question about Rick Piggot's solo FA of "The Last Bonus" in that Corte Madera thread. In affect, the question was are you sure it was "The Last Bonus" and not "South Buttress" (because on MP I could not find "The Last Bonus"). Well, I got my answer on this thread; he FA solo'ed both of them. I imagine in much the same manner too...
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 10, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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wanker and pussy were among some of the more colorful ones
"F*#khead! Go get it!!"
Hahahaha the good days eh .... snyd
What are you doing these days?
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Dec 10, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
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I live in Kentucky still with my family.
I do a bit of practice climbing from time to time...
Thanks for asking Werner! Best holiday wishes to you and Merry!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 10, 2015 - 07:24pm PT
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skcreidc, the thing I was was talking about was Rick's epic on The Last Bonus. South Buttress is pretty much a hike by comparison, although it is arguably the best line on the crag -- sort of the Nose of Corte Madera.
This is what I posted upthread a couple of years ago:
"The most awesome Piggot story I ever heard was the one story I actually heard him tell himself. The first ascent of The Last Bonus at Corte Madera. He rode in by himself on a motorcyle, soloed the FA, then rode out. Simple and direct tale of what must have been his version of an epic. I'm not sure that climb has ever been repeated after some 40 years.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/San_Diego_County/Corte_Madera/Main_Wall_Right/Last_Bonus_42141.html
"Fall will likely kill or maim. Rated X." I like that."
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 10, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
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Good to hear snyd, hope you have good Christmas too.
Ain't you mud running 4x4's and boat racing beer down there in Kentucky with the local rednecks, makin a little moonshine too. :-)
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Dec 10, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
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bvb
Great story on The Last Bonus. I backed off the 2nd pitch, pro was slim to none. Might as well have been soloing that pitch I guess.... My sack thought otherwise, hats off to RIck Piggot on his ascent !!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 11, 2015 - 11:51am PT
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For the life of me, I remember being on the Last Bonus with Rick, but I can't remember details. Either I did a second ascent with him, or I was on an aborted first ascent try. The name was inspired by Big Duke Heiser who used to say Bonus all of the time (although I could even have that wrong). Rick was my mentor in those days.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Dec 11, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
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Sorry there BVB. That was my stupid attempt to be self effacing. Finding this thread and your quote was how I answered my question. Great story tho!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 11, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
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Oh no worries skcreidc, I don't always go check back in on threads like I used to, too many other distractions right now! Where did that Corte Madera thread go off too? I remember one time flying into San Diego from the East Coast I go a truly amazing look at CM from the air -- it's a pretty little crag...
Greg, I always wondered where that name "The Last Bonus" came from -- never thought to ask Rick, he was not the kind of person -- I guess what I mean to say is that every thing I know about him was stuff he volunteered; even though in the mid-80's we were friendly, had one another's phone numbers (and even used them), and would coordinate on cragging efforts, even discuss the fine point of interior design (during the time he was outfitting his crib with designer leather furniture his attention to detail was amazing) -- he was just so tremendously reserved I would always overthink asking him about this or that or anything. He had a huge personal presence that was so natural and unforced. His sense of humor was so sharp and subtle and understated it took me years to realize he was one of the wittiest people I have ever met. His bon mots could fly right by if you weren't paying attention. I hold him in the absolute highest regard.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Dec 11, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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"Bonus" is from the popular vernacular of the G&E Buffers, a group of well mannered climbers from Santa Monica. It stands to reason that they too have a fine sense of interior design. Greg, it sounds like maybe you were on the second to the last bonus. Bon Jour.
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