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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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this thread is going classic...love all the killer pics
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Jun 14, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Hey Scott, years ago I met you in Mammoth while on my first road trip with Wes. You had just returned from Patagonia, and I asked you after seeing some of your pictures (I was a complete beginner at the time), how do you learn to control your fear and climb well while leading? Your response was as simple as it was true. "Climb hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of pitches."
I'm still scared when I lead, but much less so than 26 years ago when you shared your sage advice.
Hope you're well in CA.
Brad White
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 14, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Great Great Great!
Love that film. Did I ever look that young?
Edit: Wow!! Out there at the 15 minute mark is some shite that I seriously do not want to participate in!!
Hats off to you guys. I have been in some miserable stuff like that, and I did not want to continue, I wanted the feck out of there!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 14, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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It takes a long time to load and watch that whole film, but well worth it.
I'd have been aidin' like a BAD DOG!!
Gnarly- dab
Sick- dab
Ballsy- dab
Best line of the flick?
"I'm not coming back."
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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Brad
I'm still scared too.Forty years of climbing and it is still just as intense as the first day. Thats why I still do it!
Thanks everyone for posting the great pics.
Scole
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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Wow, That Kruk sh^t is impressive. Nice link Bruce.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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This thread is AWESOME!!! Keep em comin!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 10:07am PT
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 08:26am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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Nice.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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Holy Jesus Max! I guess weight is not an issue. That thing looks sturdier than my car.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
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If you ever make it there take a new sparkplug and some gas. See if it will start.
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Jun 16, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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The compressor is pretty well stripped (souvenir hunters?), one would need more than a spark plug and gas to get it going.
I think gaining the stance varies greatly with the amount of snow/ice plastered onto the wall but I distinctly remember reaching tall off a hook and snagging the rail with a tool. Probably the most bizarre move I've ever done on a mountain.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 16, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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Thanks everyone for sharing these stories abot a cold hard place. I went to Scott Backes slide show after you guys came home and I remember a story where he said it was so windy that Scott Cole was picked up in the ice cave and lifted and turned aroud 360 degrees while in his sleeping bag-true story Scott? I probably have the details mixed up but who cares.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 12:11am PT
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Actually, it was the other way around. I was in a little niche with the stove, while Backes and Yves Astier were on the ledge. It got a little breezy so I closed up my bag. At one point I looked out, and Backes was two feet off the ledge, flapping like a flag. The gust died and Backes landed on top of Yves. Our ledge line parted in two hours from the abrasion, and we finally descended after 24 hrs.
We summited on our next attempt a couple of weeks later.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 17, 2010 - 09:40am PT
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About 25 years ago-I forget where this happened- somewhere in Wyoming probably, but I was talking to a guy from NOLS about Don Peterson- the Tis sa Ack guy- and he said that he was down in Patagonia and he described it as "some really grim walls" I thought that summed things up pretty well
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