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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 6, 2010 - 10:06am PT
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Post your stories and photos about climbs in Patagonia here.
Scole
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 10:29am PT
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Lets see some pics and hear some lies and slander about one of the most amazing places in the world to climb!
Scole
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nice Scott! Good to see you post up!
Now tell a story.
I got engaged on a sailboat in a storm down in the Beagle Channel.
Thought I might not get out of there alive, so I might as well go for it.
She said yes! We made it out alive and the rest is history.
I think my 2nd daughter was concieved at the big lake in the Torres park, I forget the name....
We spent X-Mas day at the small lake directly under the Towers. I was sad and glad that I din't have a partner there with me!!
We did a little rock in Argentina near the Fitzroy group, just me and my fiance'.
There are some pix somewhere, but no climbing shots.
Bring on the stories!!
Bruce Birchell
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 05:23pm PT
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Hey Bruce
I once sailed through the Beagle Straights too. My story isn't quite so romantic as yours. When I went through there I was on board a 360' Ro-Ro out of Punta Arenas. There was a 2' oily swell, no wind, and a light drizzle, not the 30' refraction waves I was expecting. Probably for the best, as it can get a little breezy down there.
Scott
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Hey Scott,
Unfortunately I don't have any Patagonia stories or pics.
I'd sure like to hear yours. I like the pics.
Zander
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
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The following shots are all from the Compressor Rt (no specific order). I've climbed several routes down there so I will try to keep them seperate.
Scole
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Where's the money shot....top of the mushroom??
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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SOOOO SWEEET!
Thanks Scott, many more post to come on this here thread!
Mucci
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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In January 2011 I'm headed to Patagonia. Right now I am studying for the California Bar which I will take at the end of July. Please post up your stories and pictures to help motivate me.
What is the easiest, most impressive trad or bolted(?) route in Patagonia? I.e., is there a Corrugation Corner that will get me to a summit with awesome views in Patagonia? Better if I don't have to bring any cams.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
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Al
That is the top of the rivet pitch that Bridwell re-drilled. The big bulges above are the undersides of the mushrooms. Top stepping rivets, fixed heads, and other shitty fixed gear with 6000' of exposure is pretty exciting, especially with chunks of the mushrooms crashing down around you
every few minutes.
Scole
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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I can see mushroom chunks airborne and headed Scotts way in the photo above.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
from the Leastside
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Thanks for posting here Scott . This thread will be in the newsletter for sure .
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 09:55am PT
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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awesome thread for sure!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 10:07am PT
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I know there are lots of stories, and tons of photos out there. Share em please
Scole
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Conrad
climber
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Best rock, fine weather & great adventure.
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Fishy
climber
Zurich, Switzerland
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Fine weather???!!!!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
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Thats what I'm talking about! keep it coming.
Thanks for the pics Conrad!
Scole
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
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On the edge
Is that on the Torre Central? I've never made it to Torres del Paine' but hope to some day
Scole
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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I'd love to hear more about the Torre Central. What route did you do? How about some more pics.
Scole
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Gene
Social climber
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Ontheedge_etc........,
Narrative please. Great shots. Thanks.
g
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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We climbed the North tower. We did a new route or variation of something. Mid 5.10ish. One of the best days of my climbing life.
We wanted to do the center (and the south too), but got shut down by weather. I think only one party got up the central tower that season, on the day we arrived! Such an amazing place and such grim wind. I read Moby Dick AND Lord Jim.
A couple more..
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Here are a few from back in the day ( 1985 ). The photos are Mike Graber's
Galen on the way to the Italian col
Me on the summit ridge
Back to the pampas
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
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I remember giving a private slide show to Galen at Mike Grabers house in Mammoth before you guys left. Weren't you back in under two weeks?
Scole
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Scott, We didn't have the wait on the weather we'd feared. After being stormed off our first foray up to the Italian col, we summited on the next attempt, about 10 days after arrival in base camp.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Two years ago.....enjoyed Guillot (5+) via Couloir Amy (pronounced Ah-mee), 65 degree AI3+ (pretty thin at the time) on the east side Ag. Guillumet and 'Cuinas/Vieiro/Olaechea' on its west face (600m, 6a). Then we headed over to Cerro Torre Valley, hit up Torre De La Media Luna by climbing 'Rubia Y Azul' (6c). We wanted to get over to Claro De Luna on Ag. Saint Exupery but didn't have enough vacation time to pull it off. :(
Here's a few teaser shots of our 10 day stay, complete with amazingly warm and stable Patagonia weather .....
Crossing the lake outlet while heading out from "The Bird" camp....
Mrs. Mooch on her way out across the Cerro Torre glacier to Torre De La Media Luna.
Sharing 'Ni-Po-Nee-Mo' base camp with the "Uber-Doober" Bros. (Tomas on the left)
Mrs. M heading up the slabs to Torre De La Media Luna
The objective.....the route starts in the center of the photo by going up small corners and flake systems then bears right over to the chimney. After the chimney (which really climbs the left face on the inside), the route climbs the slabs on the right shoulder to the big yawning Oh-Dub that splits the top (the crux.....11b!) which leads to the top.
Again, the Misses having fun karate chopping the stellar hand cracks on the steep slab high on the route
Overwhelmed at the greatness of the route....
Ahhh....tasty cracks of Patagonia! Preparing to top out.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
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The shots below are from a new route I soloed in 1987 on the E. Face of Mojon Rojo (rt). I think Bridwell's rt is just left of the main prow, and mine started a few hundred feet up the gully.
I bivied at the base, and climbed the route in a 20 hr push V 5.9 A-2 with some difficult mixed to start
Scole
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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BUMP
Thanks everyone, this is killer!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Cool posts!
A few more..
Steve B.
dude, it was sunny 3 minutes ago..
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Northtrials - holy sh*t man. I didn't watch all of your vid but what I saw was insane. Thanks for sharing that.
Particularly enjoyed the send of 'The Half Peso' at minute ~25:00. Thin fingers .12c in Patagonia conditions? Yowza.
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kiwi
Trad climber
Olympia, WA
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how cheap is it to stay down there? I was thinking of spending a winter climbing. how hard is it to find partners? looks like a incredible place!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
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Northtrials
That video is awesome. It's great to see modern climbing taken to the big mountains, the future of climbing! Way more impressive than any 5.14 red point.
Scole
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kiwi
Trad climber
Olympia, WA
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agreed on that video. got in a argument with a friend about alpinist mag. I argued that there is a very different feeling when you climb a long hard alpine route from that of a 15 foot long hard boulder problem. and that's what the authors were inflecting when they wrote about "connection with the rock" and stuff like that.
great pics and video. keep em coming.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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These are from Our 1983 ascent of the Funhog Rt
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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Kiwi
You can remember a boulder problem or a sport climb for a few weeks at best, but the memories of a big alpine climb will last a lifetime. This is not intended to denigrate modern free climbing, but to suggest that they are two related, but different things.
Seeing people pushing hard on big mountains gives me hope that traditionl climbing is still alive, and not lost like I feared.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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Where is Donini? He had some grand Patagonia tales Monday night. I'm sure he has some pics too.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 10, 2010 - 01:02am PT
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Thanks Wayno for the wonderful tacos. I do indeed have some Patagonia photos that I will post on some rainy day in the near future.
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kiwi
Trad climber
Olympia, WA
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Jun 10, 2010 - 02:00am PT
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Scott
exactly! I just need to get my parents on board so I can get a plane ticket as a graduation present!
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Jun 10, 2010 - 02:12am PT
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That video is awesome Pete. Good work. See you down there for round 3?
Ryan
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Jun 10, 2010 - 03:13am PT
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 09:30am PT
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Kiwi
Let me know how you get mom and dad to foot the bill. Never to old to learn something new.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2010 - 09:49am PT
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Jun 12, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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rad thread bump
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2010 - 10:47am PT
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It looks like a nice day in Patagonia. Not many places that shot could have been taken from.
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youngharz
Boulder climber
Carpinteria
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Jun 13, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
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Great thread! Incredible photos!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Including yours
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 13, 2010 - 04:43pm PT
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Great thread!
Classic Leo Dickinson shot of the East Face.
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Double D
climber
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Jun 14, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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Stellar shots...thanks for sharing!
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kiwi
Trad climber
Olympia, WA
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:08am PT
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Scott, if I ever manage to get down there I'll let you know. having a partner with previous experience dealing with the awful weather would be a major bonus!
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:41pm PT
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never stop bumping. great stuff scole!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 14, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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this thread is going classic...love all the killer pics
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Jun 14, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Hey Scott, years ago I met you in Mammoth while on my first road trip with Wes. You had just returned from Patagonia, and I asked you after seeing some of your pictures (I was a complete beginner at the time), how do you learn to control your fear and climb well while leading? Your response was as simple as it was true. "Climb hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of pitches."
I'm still scared when I lead, but much less so than 26 years ago when you shared your sage advice.
Hope you're well in CA.
Brad White
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 14, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Great Great Great!
Love that film. Did I ever look that young?
Edit: Wow!! Out there at the 15 minute mark is some shite that I seriously do not want to participate in!!
Hats off to you guys. I have been in some miserable stuff like that, and I did not want to continue, I wanted the feck out of there!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jun 14, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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It takes a long time to load and watch that whole film, but well worth it.
I'd have been aidin' like a BAD DOG!!
Gnarly- dab
Sick- dab
Ballsy- dab
Best line of the flick?
"I'm not coming back."
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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Brad
I'm still scared too.Forty years of climbing and it is still just as intense as the first day. Thats why I still do it!
Thanks everyone for posting the great pics.
Scole
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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Wow, That Kruk sh^t is impressive. Nice link Bruce.
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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This thread is AWESOME!!! Keep em comin!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 10:07am PT
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Jun 15, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 08:26am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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Nice.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 16, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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Holy Jesus Max! I guess weight is not an issue. That thing looks sturdier than my car.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
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If you ever make it there take a new sparkplug and some gas. See if it will start.
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Max
Social climber
outer space
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Jun 16, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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The compressor is pretty well stripped (souvenir hunters?), one would need more than a spark plug and gas to get it going.
I think gaining the stance varies greatly with the amount of snow/ice plastered onto the wall but I distinctly remember reaching tall off a hook and snagging the rail with a tool. Probably the most bizarre move I've ever done on a mountain.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 16, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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Thanks everyone for sharing these stories abot a cold hard place. I went to Scott Backes slide show after you guys came home and I remember a story where he said it was so windy that Scott Cole was picked up in the ice cave and lifted and turned aroud 360 degrees while in his sleeping bag-true story Scott? I probably have the details mixed up but who cares.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2010 - 12:11am PT
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Actually, it was the other way around. I was in a little niche with the stove, while Backes and Yves Astier were on the ledge. It got a little breezy so I closed up my bag. At one point I looked out, and Backes was two feet off the ledge, flapping like a flag. The gust died and Backes landed on top of Yves. Our ledge line parted in two hours from the abrasion, and we finally descended after 24 hrs.
We summited on our next attempt a couple of weeks later.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 17, 2010 - 09:40am PT
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About 25 years ago-I forget where this happened- somewhere in Wyoming probably, but I was talking to a guy from NOLS about Don Peterson- the Tis sa Ack guy- and he said that he was down in Patagonia and he described it as "some really grim walls" I thought that summed things up pretty well
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2010 - 10:48am PT
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:28am PT
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bump to keep the thread alive...wish I had a picture or a story to contribute. Someday perhaps.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
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There is something wrong with Gagner's ice tool, the shaft is straight!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 21, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
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Great thread Scott!
Zander
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Jun 24, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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Proud.
Are there words? I don't have 'em.
Whoa.
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adnix
Big Wall climber
Finland
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Jun 24, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
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Patagonia!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
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You gotta love those windless days in Patagonia!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jun 25, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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adnix, that second shot is gold!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 29, 2010 - 09:23pm PT
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Humbled.
I'll get down there and climb. I just have to.
Where are the Gregory Crouch pictures?
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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There are lots of people who have climbed in Patagonia who haven't posted photos. Lets see em!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jul 24, 2010 - 02:10am PT
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bump to the thread that keeps delivering the INSPIRATION!!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 24, 2010 - 02:55am PT
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What would be a good intro rte for a long in the tooth, all rounder?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2010 - 03:01am PT
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I would be happy to just go and hike up to the base and go, "Wow!" Then I would go fishing and track down some of that good Chilean grape.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 24, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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bitch'n!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 28, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
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To stoke your austral summer fires check out Rolando ("Rolo" here on the Typo) Garibotti's PataClimb website. A whole lot of love and struggle went into its creation.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2010 - 10:04am PT
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I know you're holding out. Lets see some more photos!
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Nov 29, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
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Jaybro, to answer your old question--I've been wandering around the pataclimb site in prep for a february trip and have come up with these classic-sounding moderates:
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/mocho/frader.html
400m, mostly 5-6a, short section of 6c+ “very high quality climb, well worth repeating”
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/torregroup/bifida/hielo.html
550m, 6b, A3 16 pitches, bolted belays “impressive dihedral” “very beautiful and striking line on exceptional rock” Doubles to camalot # 5 and many stoppers.
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/exupery/chiaro.html
750m, 6c (or 6a A1?) “For the grade it is one of the best free routes in the area”
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/guillaumet/brenner.html
350m, 6b-6c (options) “wonderful route on excellent rock, well worth repeating”
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/desmochada/elcondor.html
550m, 6b+ A2 “route itself is on clean solid rock. The second pitch is probably one of the most aesthetic bits of climbing in the entire valley” 15 pitches FA Bridwell
cheers,
phil
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sensi
climber
vegas
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Oct 27, 2011 - 08:51am PT
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BUMP!!!!!!!!
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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May 23, 2017 - 11:15am PT
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This thread died long ago, but needs to resurrected. Share some more Patagonian pictures and horror stories
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 23, 2017 - 11:34am PT
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F
climber
away from the ground
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May 23, 2017 - 10:42pm PT
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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May 24, 2017 - 08:36am PT
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Thanks Jim
I knew you had some shots to share
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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