Forward into the Past, [old guys climbing] 5/21, 23, 24/2010


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Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
Jun 5, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
The old guys really do rule!

Especially good to see Roger and Rik back at it.


Jun 5, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
Looks like a great time. Off the couch for added spice...

Thanks for the haps, Ed.

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Jun 5, 2010 - 07:48pm PT
Thanks Ed!

I'm glad to see someone got some climbing in despite the weather!
I'm looking forward to my next trip to the Valley when I'm not so burdened down with responsibility.


Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 5, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
Bump for Ed!

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jun 5, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
What's all this Brouhaha???
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 5, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
Flanders made us do it. Him, and Billy Russell. Yeah, that's it. That's our story, and we're sticking to it.

Jun 6, 2010 - 12:46am PT
Good news. That is a TR I identify with on many levels.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 10:27am PT
BDC, looking forward to your return to climbing... right now it looks like your recovery might match the fall season, which is better as the temps in the Valley are more summer like than our May soirée (well, ok, it wasn't evening climbing, but late hour, for sure).

SteveW, my back is recovering well, now just stiff, I'm back to climbing and getting stronger, and hopefully I can continue without injuring anything else, or re-injuring the back. Starting to think about a trip to the continental divide this summer...

Thanks all for your encouragement in writing meagre trip reports, as recovery efforts always start out with limited goals, hopefully to build to more interesting adventures... I'll have some more reports soon...

Trad climber
Jun 6, 2010 - 11:49am PT
Go Ed!!!

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jun 6, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
Great report Ed!
Thanks for bringing us along on the FA of Geritol Boys!!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
I think it will be Team Flowmax

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 6, 2010 - 02:55pm PT

Save your money and get Terazosin!!!!
Muy cheaper!!!! (A blood pressure med too).
Glad to hear the back is coming along. Does your
trip mean the boogaloo? Or Colorado? Whoo hoo!!!
I'm not sure I'll get in much this summer. Summer semester
is a bear this year. Whew! Back to homework!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
not using Flowmax yet... but it seems evertime I turn around it's either to pee or I see one of my partners doing so.... how did our bladders shrink?

As for the summer, perhaps I should make a trip to Colorado, as I have never climbed in that state before...

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Jun 6, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
Great TR,

Glad to see I'm not the only one out there having to always take a leak

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jun 7, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
You really should consider a Colorado trip. Early Fall is perfect for the Lumpy Ridge. Eldorado is probably still going to be pretty hot. If Colorado is too hot, it's only a 2 hour drive up to Vedauwoo for a backup plan.

I should be back to some easy climbing in just a few more weeks--as soon as the ribs are a little loss sore.

Flomax Team leader


Mckinleyville, Ca
Jun 7, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
Thought I'd mention something about how wonderful it was to be back in the Valley and climbing and seeing old friends; and if we weren't climbing then we were hanging out for hours having conversations of every shape and size and dimension -just like it always has been; and how I could easily envision spending another lifetime there next chance I get...

I would add that I was drawn to the Valley by Jan's inspirational event and how it helped me feel that a group of climbers seems to be about more than just the climbing; maybe its about something like being tied to the world but dwelling somewhere just beyond, where an essential perspective is shared and cultivated.

Although I didn't get to know many new people, I really loved hearing Climbers From Way Back, recounting famous pitches and partners as easily as if the ascent was last week. That's talent and skill and charm I'll never have. It was a privilege attend the remembrance, in such a select company of climbing film-makers and historians, guides and all people who have been attracted to Yosemite through the years.

And here's to you Ed: You'd be a fabulous guide, but I know you already have a decent day job.
Fearless Leader on Bishop's terrace, May 2010
Fearless Leader on Bishop's terrace, May 2010
Credit: rrider
And here's to some other thoughtful ascentionists:
Roger and Steve in the cafe
Roger and Steve in the cafe
Credit: rrider
And some more anchor men:
Coffee and discussion.  Jstan, Ed, Mighty Hiker
Coffee and discussion. Jstan, Ed, Mighty Hiker
Credit: rrider

rik r
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 7, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
And one more.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
Rik, Roger and Steve, in another of our fascinating discussions of Valley historiography in the cafeteria. The cool rainy weather encouraged such things.

Contrary to appearances, Rik was not about to brain Roger with a salt shaker.

I really enjoyed Rik's story of the second free ascent of the left side of Hourglass, and hope he'll post it sometime on one of the Hourglass threads.

Social climber
Jun 7, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
hey there say, ed and all...

wow, very nice trip report... nice pics, too...
always wonderful to see such nice comaradarie... good stuff...
thanks for the special share...

yes, too, hope your back is doing well..

Jun 7, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
These guys were getting better and better with every climb.

When I see the name Rik Rieder I can only think of 'A Mother's Lament.'

A proud friction test piece of Rieder's for me...done before the intermediate anchors and split pitches, autumn of '75. I really didn't know what I was getting into...pretty much full pitches with one piece of natural pro...E.B's on what seemed like glass...


Social climber
Jun 7, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
Great TR and glad you arrr back, Ed!
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